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verizon mifi 2200 user guidePlease upgrade your browser to improve your experience. Volkswagen Cabrio Transmission At approximately 55,000 miles the manual transmission had to be replaced. The car was never abused and maintained at the VW dealership as it was a lease vehicle. Needless to say she is furious with this treatment, has retained legal advice and is scheduled for a small claims court appearance. My question to any reader is if they, or anyone they know, has experienced similar transmission problems with Cabrio's. Thanks for any assistance you may be able to provide. Luckily a couple miles within warranty. However, had similar problem with transmission this week. This doesn't take into account the numerous times the check engine light has come on both in and out of warranty.It revs up but doesn't go so to speak. I'm just a weekend mechanic so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The car shifts good, has great pickup, but when you let up on the accelerator the noise starts, it seems a little better when you push in the clutch. Any idea on what the problem is. thanks, Does anyone have any info on where I can get these parts? I do not service mine at a dealership, but at a VW certified mechanic who says it is the trans-axle assembly. He told me that it was not dangerous to drive and that it would not cause further damage to drive the car, so I've been driving it while I save for the repair. The racket it makes is very annoying but as far as the drive, shift, etc.it's fine. While I was gone my wife has had a continuing issue with her 2001 Cabrio. It seems that there are times when the little knob you depress on the gear shift to put the car into gear won't budge, so she has resorted to beating it with whatevers handy to get it to shift. I feel I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so maybe I can fix it??? Any ideas out there. I have 35K miles on my 2002 Cabrio, which has an automatic transmission. Over the past week or so I've had problems accelerating.http://www.dakmet.com.pl/upload/bryant-355cav-manual.xml

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The car is sluggish and jerks a little between 1st and 2nd gears and has a hard time even going above 60mph. I've noticed that it seems worse when the engine is cold (however, I live in Los Angeles so cold doesn't really mean COLD). The suggestions that I've heard so far are spark plugs and tranmission replacements - does anyone have other advice. I don't have a lot of money to throw at the problem so I don't want to pay for unnecessary repairs. Thanks! Replaced seal and torque converter bushing. Still threw fluid. Pulled anew, and replaced seal again, along with torque converter. The fluid still flies. Is there some 'input shaft seal' that is leaking out onto my converter and flying out the openings of the bell housing? I started to notice that when you step on the accelerator there is a slight delay and then it jerks forward. After I drive it a little the problem seems to go away. Has anyone experienced this problem or has any suggestions. Thanks, Seawarrior To this day the problem has not been fixed. I've taken it to a couple mechanics and they can't seem to do much. You can feel the car about to do it so tell your son to just let go of the accelerator put it in neutral accelerate a little and then back to drive. It won't do a hard jolt just a small soft one. I am looking for the same info as you are I just don't want it to become a huge problem. If the sensor replacement doesn't look too difficult I may try to replace it, just to see if it works. Take care I change my own oil and recently did my first tune up at 80K miles. Car runs great, until I heard a very loud noise under my car when driving, I knew I could not fix this one so I brought it straigt to the dealer (a rare action but I knew I had powertrain wrnty). They called me back and said no trouble found. The mama papa shop was real cool and told me in less then 15 minutes I did not have a clutch problem at all but a trans problem.http://gregoryshow.ru/files/file/bryant-394had-manual.xml I drove straight back to VW dealer and very politely told them of the mama papa diagnosis. VW dealer held to their original position of this is a clutch issue and they wanted to charge me to look further into the problem. Hope this helps anyone.I brought it to a dealership (I hate the dealerships), they said that the transmission memorizes the driver and they reset the codes. It worked for a little while. I put it off and just last week brought it to Aamco who investigated through Volkswagon and found out that the 98 Cabrio was a test for this transmission module which memorizes the driver. I hope I did not get ripped off, however I can tell you my next car will be something that does not involve the dealership. I love my Cabrio but all roads lead to expensive repair. Having trouble with it shifting. Gets up to about 4000 rpms or so and then must take foot off gas to shift into next gear. Had transmission checked, and is ok. Any ideas? It seems to be slipping out of gear between first and second and it only has 80,000 miles on it. I dont see how this is possible!? I am hoping it isnt the transmission.any ideas as to what it could be!? It's the computer transmission fluid sensor malfunctioning. There's nothing wrong with the transmission. Try warming up your car first. That seems to work. I ordered a transmission filter online and then started looking for instructions on changing the tranny fluid. It wasn't the simple task I'm used to in most cars. Fluid has to be warmed to a certain temperature, etc before filling requiring special equipment. I'm not entirely sure if just topping the tranny fluid would require the same equipment, but I fear it might. When I get home, I'll try to remember to look through the haynes manual and see what it says. The only way to check or fill or change the fluid is only through the dealership and costs 45 times more.best of luck. Is there any other option for servicinig the transmission besides the dealer.http://www.raumboerse-luzern.ch/mieten/bosch-logixx-slimline-dishwasher-manual They claim that most of the cost is for the transmission fluid, not sure if that is correct or not. Is it difficult to do, any parts involved besides the fluid. I gues you know the car is an automatic. When we got my daughter's '97 Cabrio, it came with no service records. I went online and ordered all of the various maintenance parts I thought would be useful, including a new tranny filter. I also picked up a Haynes service manual for it. I quickly noticed that there was no process for replacing the filter in the manual. Upon further investigation, I found that while you can get into the tranny and replace the filter, refilling it was the problem. VW uses some type of machine that pre-heats the fluid prior to filling. Alledgely, having the fluid at the right temp ensures that it flows properly through all the little nooks and crannies in the tranny and that is the only way to ensure proper fill level. While I guess that could work, I instead took it to a local independant garage that specializes in VW. The cost was probably about 60 of what a VW dealership would charge. This is my family's first VW and one thing I can tell you for sure.A few months ago it started to have problems shifting into the right gear. I went to my regular mechanic who said he could not check the fluid because the way VWs are made, so I took it to the dealership who told me it was giving a code that it needed a part and they would order it for me, but then very rudely did not call me back and when I called the day before my service appointment they told me the part isn't made anymore. I took it to Aamco from the advice of my dad, they checked the fluid and the fluid was burned but there was no metal in it so the car was fine. The problems seemed to go away but a month later they started again. I got a tune up at 100k miles as Aamco recommended and that seemed to help but soon after the problems came back. If this does not fix it I don't know what I'm going to do.http://faraznovin.com/images/briggs-stratton-exl8000-generator-owners-manual.pdf I have a Wheelz warranty I bought with the car and I'm hoping that if it's expensive it will be covered but I know warranty companies make money by denying claims. I am really doing everything I can and taking it for all the oil changes and maintenance services it needs but no one has been able to fix this problem or even tell me what it is. Did you get an answer or solution? Paul I can manullay shift from 1 up, but it goes into 3rd and not through 2 nd. Book say it is in Fail-Safe mode. Does any one know why that happens? Just need to replace it.It would not go into reverse. I noted that the clamp on the shifter rod in the engine compartment was almost at the end of the rod. I got out my Haynes manual for this vehicle only to discover that the manual trans shown are nothing like the one in the 1999. I removed the shifter boot and found that the rod seems to have rotated counterclockwise (sitting in the dsrivers seat) and is now only going in to third and fourth but only when the shifter is pushed down as in going into reverse and moving past the plastic guide. This gives me third, fourth and fifth. Anyone have any ideas as to how to correct this? Here is what I have noticed and know. I have one on order and I will let you know if it fixes my Cabrio. Ray I recently put some lucas transmission fix in it and it is doing better but it is still a little rough on the downshift. Anyone else have these issues or have any suggestions other than replace the transmission? Ray I have picked the car up yet but the previous owners described the problem as the transmission making grinding noises and will not go into reverse. I have no prior knowledge of these vehicles, but most manual reverses use 1rst gear and a reverse idler gear for reverse. Is it possible that a bent or misaligned linkage or stretched cable could be causing it to not fully engage. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks ! They have tried to replicate the problem at the dealership and can't find an issue.http://www.jimenez-casquet.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/162886706c7d9a---can-a-dog-walk-on-a-manual-treadmill.pdf I just took it in because when I turned my wheel left I heard a creaking noise. They determined that I needed a new gear box. They replaced the gear box and when I picked up the car I put the car into drive and this time the knob on the gearshift stayed stuck and I couldnt get it out nor could I get the key out. I went back in and had to leave it again. They just called my husband and said they were replacing the gearshift cable.I told my husband that I always felt it had something to do with the know on the gearshift and hoping that this solves my problem. Thank goodness that when we bought the car last year at CarMax we took out an extended warranty.no charge!! It is now at the junkyard. My mechanic says these problems are common in VWs. I bought Japanese for reliability. So it goes. Cabrio. great car, big problems. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience. Volkswagen Golf Transmission Troubles Lately if i shift quickly tfrom 3 to 4 it would grind slightly, and has been making a whirring sound in neutral. I suspected a aging synchro.WHile driving around town,the trans stuck in third, cannot move shifter at all.When i decelerate in gear the shifter actually pulls even more forward against arm pressure.Any ideas what went wrong, or time for a new gearbox.At first my friend and I thought it was a wheel bearing, until yesterday. I was driving home from my friends house and my car was shaking like crazy when accelerating and it sounded as if something was dropping out every few seconds, like it was a big bang and then it would jump a bit. I came to another stop sign and went to put in first and let off the clutch and nothing happens i just revved the engine. So i tried it again, same thing, so i turned it off and tried again, nothing. So i put it in neutral and my friend pushed me to the side of the rode.BAIDUVPN.COM/upload/files/casio-calculator-ms-80te-manual.pdf I tried from second, nothing and then my friend pushing me got it rolling it a bit and i tried third, and nothing again. Then when we were sitting at a stop again, we noticed that when u let out the clutch all the way, while your in gear that the car doesn't even stall. So then I let out the clutch again and tried to go, and i revved the engine, and still nothing, but then we noticed that the Speedometer hit 30mph and i was sitting still. I don't think its the clutch because I just had a new one put on when I bought it 4 months ago. The car is just about to hit 100,000 miles. Anyone have any suggestions of what i can do? Probably the same car as what you have. It started making the same noises yours is making. I havent gotten the shaking, but my car has 66k on it. It may be a wheel bearing, i havent looked into that for mine yet, i was thinking about taking it apart but im trading the car in tuesday for a legacy gt. But i will tell you this, any part for that car, is very expensive.so save up before it goes into the shop. And i bet you.with your clutch not grabbing, look and see if they replaced the pressure plate, or flywheel, that could be a problem.Thanks Danielle It also feels as though it wants to stall. Does any one know what could be causing this? VW warrants the drivetrain for 10 years or 100,000 mi.But, if your not the original owner, than that's null and void. About a month ago I had this weird bucking thing while driving, similar to other posts. Took the car back to the dealer and found out it was the oil cooler (heat transfer) unit. After finding water in the trans fluid and trans oil in the overflow tank he also said I need a new trans, preferably reconditoned one. Instead I got them to flush the trans and replace the fluid but the problem has come back two weeks later. The problem I have is that I didnt buy the car from a VW dealer but am paying for the extended warranty. Is this a common problem with the Golf. Will the problem come back again?http://www.airportlimofortlauderdale.net/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1628867187046c---Can-am-400-outlander-manual.pdf I can drive in all gears except reverse. When i try to reverse it spits it out if i don't push on the stick.Does anyone know what ity might be.I tried putting it but tyhe gear oil leaks right out. Does anyone think that if i fix the leak on my car, the gear oil will fix my problem.Recently though switching gears and accelerating has been increasingly difficult for the car and it seems like it stalls out a little. It's an automatic, why is it stalling out. On may to the mountains the car started to get worse and the engine light came on. When I got to my destination I told my father and we put some oil in it and it seemed to work fine. When I got back home the car seemed fine for about 4 days even with AC on. On Wednesday the engine light came on after acting up. It now has problems even getting to 45 mph. It is on 4 rpm's when I try to go 60 mph. I was wondering what could possibly be the problem and what your tips on solving it would be. I hate to spend massive amounts of money because this car has been so troublesome. Just wondering what the problem might be. If anyone has any ideas spill them, really curious what is wrong and if anyone else has this problem. Auto gearbox reluctant to come out of second or third gear when engine or ambient temperature is high.Each time the car behaved faultlessly for two weeks, then back to old tricks. Can over come this problem by having the Air Conditioning on with blower on lowest setting. Feels like a sensor or ECU has become heat sensitive, when air con comes on, both fans are working on radiator. Any suggestions would be gratefully received Tried out a 2004 VW GOlf FSI Comfortline automatic (in Australia), approx 70,000ks; after a few ks, it was as if I was driving a manual, and putting the clutch in as well as accelerator down; high revs and no power; happens intermittently, and more often when under acceleration from lights etc. Very clunky in shifting down. Is this problem fixable.https://www.nationaalgolfcongres.nl/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/16288671896c27---can-am-ds-450-workshop-manual.pdf What would lead to such a problem in an otherwise beautifully running car? I'd look down at the top of the transmission and look at the mechanism that moves you from one gear to another. There are plastic and metal pieces there that can bend or wear out. I'm thinking by now the problem has long since been fixed. Did you ever work out the solution.I have no idea and not sure what the repair cost is going to be. Any info would be well received mate. Cheers H Your guess is right. It probably is the clutch. When I had this problem it cost me 1300 USD to have the dealer repair it. Others in town didn't have parts to it, or were going to purchase it from the dealer also, so their quotes were similar. I was told it's an assembly, plate, wieght, and some other parts. The explanation I got is: that the clutch is electronic not a traditional cable so it's a complex job. It's not warranted since it's considered a wear and tear item like a brake pad or tires. Good luck They took it to a mechanic and they said it needs to have a new air filter sensor which is 300 dollars, i don't know alot about vw but i don't know if that's really the problem if anyone can help it would be really appreciated cheers timcloake Never had any problems whatsoever.For long-term driving with lowest maintenance, an automatic xmission is not the right choice. Too many moving parts, too much maintenance and lower MPG as compared to manual xmission. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience. Volkswagen Cabrio Electrical Problems Occasionally at night when my headlights are on, the ABS and Brake lights will come on. Because this is only slightly annoying, I ignored it for a while until something extraordinary happened. This is VERY SCARY on the road. It only happens when the lights are on, though. Anyone else had this happen. What do you think could be done to fix it? THANKS!BAHETH24AQARI.COM/ckfinder/userfiles/files/casio-calculator-manuals.pdf I have to get mine fixed this week because I am driving to Vegas and I don't have working headlights if I find out whats wrong with it I'll let you know. It started after we had the top replaced, and only thing we can think of is that it might be the rear window defroster. We thought we would check it and the fuse cover with the diagram is missing. Any one got any ideas about our problem, or a diagram of the fuse configuration they could send? Thanks I have a 2001 cabrio, and seem to have lost the fuse box cover showing the diagram of the fuse placement. I think it was lost when top replaced (due to vandalizem) Any ideas on where to get a new diagram. Also, we purchased this car for a fun runabout while traveling, but now are questioning if it is towable. Cannot find anything online, and the dealer won't say one way or another. Have heard it is a bad idea because it is front wheel drive. It is a manual 5 speed. I just recently saw a VW Golf being towed behind a motorhome, isn't it basically the same car. Would like anyones expertise on this. We would like to be able to tow it on all four wheels to save the cost of a car dolly and accessories, but need to know if it is ok not to. Thanks for any advise or input. I LuvVW! The fuses all seem to be OK.Any suggestions??? Thanks! When turning the key on, it seems as though I have missed one click to completion. If I turn the car off and restart it, or turn the key one more click to the right, all symptoms disappear. My vehicle has no codes at the dealership and they don't know what would cause this. When I start the car, the brake light stays on, as does the ABS warning light. Headlights, AC and wipers won't work but if I flash my brights, everything turns on. Also, if I turn on the wipers and headlights and then start the car in succession three times, the will turn on and then fail after about 3 minutes. Sound familiar? Have you found any solutions. I honestly have no money to spend on this and I'm hoping it's just a new set of fuses. Any ideas you could share. I'd be very appreciative. Thanks! Noah My current problem is that when I am driving down the freeway at 70mph or and keeping a steady foot on the gas pedal, my car will stutter. It feels like all of a sudden I am taking my foot completely off the gas petal and then slamming it back on. It will do that for twenty or so seconds before it simply has no power no matter what I do. Then when the car gets to around 1000 rpms it dies. It then will turn over but not start again, unless I give it a bit of gas while trying to start it. Could this be an electrical problem. I have had so many issues with this 98 cabrio and I really can't afford to take her to a shop, AGAIN! I got soaked, but I feel safer driving a new Honda and will never buy a Volkswagen again. And in the past 3 months I have had the same exact problem. Happened three times.The third time though, though it was raining, Jade was park.I popped the hood and bingo, my engine is wet. SO if you find out whats the problem.Just looking ahead to the next rain storm when, no dought, this will happen. My mechanic thinks it's related to the alarm, even though it is not set. Anyone experience anything like this. He thought he could put in a switch to disconnect the battery when it's parked, but even that doesn't seem feasible. I have the same problem!! Marti If you do not push the key all the way into the ignition before starting the car the engine starts but the AC won't work. Some other things also may not work but we only noticed the AC because it is so hot around here (FL). I hope this can help someone. Since home, few days, lights go on when switched on, and go off when switched off. Any dear folks have THIS ONE ?? Thanks for replying. But surely your mechanic checked this. Disconnecting the battery would require you to enter the safe code to use the radio.I have a '98 5-speed manual. People have told me the daytime running lights aren't as bright, but honestly I can't tell the difference. If you have a later model and are experiencing times when headlights are NOT on, I would question whether your daytime running lights are working correctly. Good luck! I couldn't pinpoint which component was causing the fuse to blow, but my husband replaced the fuse yesterday and when we got back in this morning, I used the winshield washer, windshield wiper, rear defogger, and heated seats. When I tried to lower the windows to clear the condensation off, they wouldn't work.:confuse: Have you had any input on your problem. I am a little reluctant to take it back to the dealership unless I absolutely have to! I checked all the fuses and they are still good, but still no radio.I have had the battery load tested, it passed. I put a volt meter inline with the battery and saw 12 volts, which means there's Something, Somewhere, completing the circuit.Pulled the fuses one at a time, and disconnected the alternator, no change.Which now leads me to believe the problem may be something that is live all the time like the computer or anti theft system.Anyone know if the alarm is integral to the computer system?:confuse: You need to acquire the access code for the radio.Now when I lock the car the windows automatically go up( which was pretty cool) until now when I unlock the car the windows go down then will not work.have no choice but to drive with them down. Don't have the enormous amount of money wanted to diagnose so if anyone knows what to do please respond.THANKS !! PS still love the car !! Its just got a mind of its own !! Could this be linked together. I have checked fuzes. We took it to the mall the other day, bright, sunny, hot day. When we went to leave I turned the key and nothing happened. Zip, nada, nothing. The lights and fan and radio worked but the car wouldn't start. Not a sound, buz or crank. Had to have it towed home. Within a year or so I began having trouble with the accessories after the car was parked in hot sun. Took it to the dealer several times with this issue but the claim was that they had no way of fixing it because they couldn't cause it to fail. From the messages I've read it seems VW has know for a long while that there were electrical issues. A friend told me after I first had the problem that it was probably in the ignition. (He is a mechanic) After having this problem for 7 years the ignition finally quit, while driving in city traffic. No more VW's for me. ( former flower child) Bought the cfar in VA Beach in 2003. It started intermintently and now seems its doing it all the time. One not: when this happens, my brake light illuminates dimly, not as strong as pulling the emergency brake though. The only thing that works is the radio and the windows. Did you get any resolution on this that may help? When it did start 19 out of 20 times it would do just fine, crank strong and start right up. Every once in a while 1 out of 20 times it would not start, just click when I turned the key, no turnover. During those times I would just try to start it again, then it would start, kindof a mystery. Eventually it got worse and would not start. Finally took it in. Mechanic said my starter and ignition coil were bad. I am so happy as it took me a few months before I brought it in for repair as I frankly do not trust mechanics. I realized during this time how much I love this car during the period it was not starting well as in the back of my mind I considered an alternate car and could not come up with one. Hope this solution to my intermittent car not starting helps someone else. When it is reading empty, there is about half a tank left. Not sure if it is the sender unit in the gas tank or the guage on the dash I tightened up the adjustments under the center arm rest (that little thing in the middle) but it goes up and down and doesn't apply the brakes at all. In the past it would restart after a while. I replaced the fuel filter and it seemed fine for about 3 months. It happened again and no I can smell gas but it won't start. I have spark fron the coil but I can't get the plug wires off the spark plugs. Any ideas? I have no spark. I rechecked everything. It goes into the ecm.I've checked all my grounds and connectors. I'm a CAT diesel tech and this little thing has me stumped. Having trouble with it shifting. Any ideas? I am experiencing that these items in the cluster do not work from time to time. I'll start the car cold and they work fine. However on a start of 3 to 4 times, the tach and speedometer don't work. Is there anyone out there have experienced this same problem. Regards Kurt I've had if for almost 4 years, and this has started the past year or so. Any ideas on how to fix this, or is it the beginning of the end for my Cab. It has 103k miles on it. The couple of forums I visited addressed both of these issues. I was glad of that. I am not opposed to installing a new CD to connect to the 10 disc changed, if that's possible, but what I am concerned about, is there any chance this is an electrical problem and not just a grounding wire problem.Then it wouldn't start at all. Have spark, will start but not turn over. We have replaced everything including the computer. The only thing we haven't changed out is the ignition, ignition module or starter (tested - it works). Does anyone have a clue. I can't afford any more parts and I need a car. It would turn over strong but not start. Then sometimes it would not turnover at all and I was kind of stranded. I ended up neededing a starter and that proved to be the true fix as I have not had any problems for close to a year. I had an intermittent starter problem so if you tested it could be a case where it worked fine for test but not fine for real world. You might want to search the edmunds Golf forum (hard top version of cabrio) as the cars have the same engines so there is much more info there with the Golf being a mainstream car. Her car is a '97 Cabrio. She said it only happened one time on her drive home. Not seeing it myself, I would tend to think that, being a one-time event, it could have been some foreign material (dirt, hair, etc) was on the contacts of the turn signal switch and burned off. Any thoughts? '97 Cabrio Intermittent issue - solved temporarily by turning the car off and on. The one turn signal is also blinking rapidly. Might it be a problem with the sensor that detects when the brake is released. But then the blower shutting off - seems unrelated. I had just gassed up the day be fore.If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons. It controls how the power from you engine is distributed to the driveshaft and a small problem could result in major issues with your vehicle. So as soon as you notice any of these common transmission problems, you should try to find a way to get them fixed. If you’re in need of a service or maintenance on your transmission, be sure to contact us here at Speedcraft Volkswagen. This is a clear-cut sign of a problem with your transmission. This problem is usually caused by a bad clutch that needs to be replaced, but it may also be caused by a more severe problem. If your vehicle starts making a noise that you aren’t used to while shifting gears, it’s a good idea to get it checked out. This problem should be repaired as soon as possible. Leaking fluid that goes unchecked is one of the most common sources of transmission break down. The fluid in your transmission is essential to ensuring it runs properly. When your fluids are low or start to leak, it can cause serious damage. This is described as the clutch disk failing to disengage the flywheel when the clutch is pressed.