service manual for lexus gx460
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service manual for lexus gx460This new design would call This clutch was manually engaged by the Early models This version of the 400 The new models now used the The clutch was updated to a 5 degree undercut, This new design used the OMC Cobra transom plate This included This new system was sold as With the introduction of this Many OEM parts are still interchangeable with. Pull the boot off the tube that is running down to the transom assembly and then just slide the boot completely off the cable. (Try and not lose the small grommet located on the shift cable) Remove the bolt that holds on the shift cable retainer and then rotate the shift cable retainer until it comes off of the threaded end of the shift cable. Push these disconnected bellows into the gimbal housing as well. The Pivot housing should now be completely free and separated from the transom assembly. Wrap electical tape around the end of the cable to prevent water from accidentally entering the core of the wire when cable is inserted into the transom tube sleeve. The end of the tubing should be flush with the cable's hex nut. (You can use soapy water to make this process easier.) Push the cable through the transom tube sleeve Then apply some sort of lithium or marine grease (i.e. quicksilver 2-4-C) to the entire length of the the cable's exposed metal end. Guide the water tube nipple through the housing and position the U-Joint and exhaust bellows behind each of their respective openings. Torque each pin to 105-120 ft. lbs. Make sure the water hose's square nipple collar is seated correctly in its respective spot in the pivot housing and tighten the nut to 96-120 ft. lbs. Double check again that nothing is moving around and that the square of the water tube is properly seated in the pivot housing. Pull the U-Joint Bellows through the opening and seat it in the groove lip. Make sure that the bellows is seated properly and that there are no flat spots on the seal indicating the bellows not properly seated in it's respective groove.http://eeprinting.com/app/webroot/img/hp-4050-owners-manual.xml
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Install snap ring to keep it securely in place. Attach the small grommet onto the cable and push it into the boot. Apply a tiny amount of gasket sealant to the inside of the rubber boot where it contacts with the shift cable transom sleeve tube. Slide entire boot and grommet onto the sleeve and secure both ends with tie straps. Tighten lock nut over the metal casing to 35-50 in. lbs. Lightly apply some marine grease to the metal casing guide. Carefully install both set screws and tighten both to 30-35 in. lbs. while visually confirming that the end of the cable is still visible within the sight hole. Slide Cable guide in or out until the bellcrank pin is captured by the slot in the alignment plate. Use a few washers and two of the nuts from the studs you removed earlier to securely hold the alignment plate in place. You can use a wrap of tape around the end of the cable where it sits on the steel dowel to make sure everything stays in place while you're outside the boat making the final adjustments. With the cable secured to the tool. Rotate the barrel anchor until it lines up with the arrow indicated on the tool Screw on the swivel retainer until it just contacts the end of the shift cable guide. Install the screw from the shift cable guide finger tight. The cable actuation force should be light as possible in either direction. (AKA Should be able too move smoothly in both directions). For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Well, the engine is all fixed. But I can't go forward. Reverse works fine, but forward doesn't. There was a lovely guy there that helped me out a bit, new alot about OMC Cobras it seemed, but niether of us had any tools, so not much got done. He does believe that my shift cable is mis-aligned though, and that the gearset is still OK. So, I need to adjust it.http://www.rachelledelcroix.nl/upload/hp-4050-service-manual-download.xml Anyone have a PDF manual they could send me. I swear I saw a link on here somewhere to manuals, but now I can't find it. Or a good pointing in the right direction for a mechanically inclined new boat owner. Thanks guys! Anyone have a PDF manual they could send me. Thanks guys!There is a tool, a plate, that bolts to the bellhousing to hold the shift pin in the right position while you adjust the shift cable's end. There is also a set adjustment for the shift rod height from the lower. Not to mention the correct amount of cable core that should be exposed in the boat before you put on the slide and parts. Try that, check your PM's also. Handegard, which drive and what year do you have. I changed the cable on my 89 Bayliner and I'm having serious problems getting mine adjusted too. Someone told me it may excess play in the lower half of the outdrive but it worked fine until the cable broke. Just to get to use the boat I disconnected it and left it in forward and had to start my boat in gear. Hated doing it that way but had to get on the water. I wish I could find someone to help me too. Until then I'll just keep working at it. It's a '88 and the drive is a OMC Cobra. Thats about all I know. I plan to play with it tomorow though. The lower shift cable adjustment is done with the drive removed.Very critical on the cobra. Try this manual in PDF. Pay particualr attention to the Hastings link posted earlier. Improperly adjusted shift cables will destroy an OMC drive and are what gave OMC such a bad rep. I apologize for asking questions that most people seem to hate, but I have amongst other things Aspergers syndrome, and while I'm intelligent and very mechanically inclined, I can read and read and read repair procedures and I can't make the actual knowledge jump from the screen to my brain. I learn from talking or doing, not from reading, but most likely due to the similarity between a conversation and a forum, I can easily learn from a forum.http://seasailing.us/node/5565 So I may ask questions that have been covered in the links, but it's the only way I absorb the info. What I needed to ask today was, why should I replace the cable. Are we all going off the suggestion that the old man at the dock told me, that he thinks the gears are good but the linkage is mis-adjusted. Because that was just a guess. He didn't really have any reason to know one way or another. Also, I've read several methods that to me appear to be adjustments in several places both with the drive on and off. Is there something I can do to find out what of these suggestions I need to look into. Or am I left looking into all of them.One trip out with it not engaged all the way in forward and your dog clutch will look like someone took a grinder to it. Have patience and read up. The information is out there. You really need to know how to do this one thing properly if you're going to plan on keeping that Cobra drive. Good luck. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Now is the time before I put them back on. YOur assistance is greatly appreciated. 1989 cobra thanks much. Stan Did you do that first. Are you using a factory manual to guide you in making any adjustments. If not, I suggest you read it fairly carefully first before proceeding any further. Holding the bellcrank at 90 degrees is critical. If you don't do that(easier with the special tool)none of the other measurements mean anything. Actually, there have really been no part changes to the setup. The only thing that has changed is the instructions to do the setup. Read this article for more guidance. Once the drive is back on the transom, there is no adjustments except via the cable. I did notice that the drive that is giving me trouble seems to have been replaced at one time and someone put a stip of tape on the shift rod for adjustment. I guess I should just close my eyes, do the adjustment as per the book which means removing the lower grear from the mid to do it ( bummer after I just refilled it with oil).I purchased this unit 2 years ago and last year was the actual first year that I had it in the water for the entire season.Stan ( inohv8). ( bellcrank was at 90 degree) I think I will have to pull both lower gear cases off and adjust both to spec.Sorry got cornfused. There are a lot of information out there that contradicts what the measurements should be. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I followed all the instructions in Stuart's fabulous directions that I found on this forum. Does this mean from the end of the crimp on the cable side or from where the threads start with the barrel trunion. The problem is I can't seem to find the happy medium between the transom shift cable engaging the clutch dog fully and the remote shift cable keeping the ESA switch in the correct position. Can anyone shed some light on this? The factory service manual has pictures and step by step. Did you do the bell crank measurement while the drive was off.?( with the correct tool?) The adjusting is all done with the drive off.Cable measurements and the shift bell crank adjustment. I'm using the Stuart hastings wensite that includes OMC manual directions with pictures. I am guessing the directions mean the end of the crimped fitting nearest the threaded end where the cable comes out. I didn't have the special bell crank tool but I'm not exactly sure how to use it if I did. It it just to make sure the crank is at 90 degrees when you set the lower tab to the gasket surface. I'm planning on removing the drive one more time to make sure all measurements are right and I will make a masking tape template like on saw posted in the forum to make sure of that 90 degree setting. Once all that is correct and the d rive is back on I can make all adjustments from the engine side right. Is that the case? If I can just get the drive side settings right I can figure the rest out based on the instructions in the OMC manual. Your help is GREATLY appreciated! I wish i would have kept the factory manual from when i had a Cobra. When i did my cable i remember it had to be exact to shift right. I am thinking that cable measurement was from the center of the clamp bracket on the cable to the center of the eye on the end. Not sure though,Its been a long time ago. I knew i should have kept that manual i payed 70 bucks for. I gave it to the guy instead. If it is not set correctly, the amount of throw will vary between forward and reverse. I always used the OMC tool. See if you can find a marine shop that will loan it to you. What is nice about using it is that it holds it in position while you make the adjustment up at the engine. If the tab and the surface are not even and the bell crank is NOT at 90 degrees what which one do you go with, the tab or the 90 degrees. I guess this is how Stuart Hastings got away with not using that OMC tool? If it is not set correctly, the amount of throw will vary between forward and reverse. What is nice about using it is that it holds it in position while you make the adjustment up at the engine.The OEM manual would be better than Stuarts instructions.I tried both and the OMC manual was dead on. Since I used the tool, I don't know the relationship of the tab. I would go with the 90 degrees if I had a choice. After you get all done and have the drive back on, shift the drive between forward and reverse. Note the angle of the shifter when the drive just goes into forward and reverse. They should both occur at the same angle. Better to cheat toward it going into forward earlier than going into reverse if you have to make a choice. Another thing that that I always felt was important was to eliminate any lost motion so that the control delivers the maximum throw. Make sure the shift cable from the shifter back to the engine is tied into place so that it doesn't flop around. I zip tied mine up to the wiring bundle and sterring cable so it doesn't move. Also, make sure your controller is not worn. My first shifter had tons of slop in it. When I replaced it with a newer controller it made my shifting easier and the adjustment process easier. To see how much play you have, grab the end of the cable and push and pull it to see how much movement there is. It should make life easy. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Ive looked and looked,on the web for a document that could tell me what type of lower unit oil to use. I notice there are two types, electric shift and mechanical shift. I dont have the manual, so Im not sure. I dont see any wires going down to the lower unit. I would ask the guy I bought it from but I can't seem to get ahold of him about it. Can anyone tell me if my motor is electric or mechanical shift, and what type of gearbox oil I should be using? Thanks! You should have two cables coming out of your control box. One is throttle, thj other shift.And I do indeed have two cables. One is choke, and the other is throttle, so are they actually refering to the mechanical shifting of the motor into gear by cable? The cable that you think is the choke, is the throttle cable. Your choke should be electric. Scratch my recommendation. Use OMC Hi Vis or equivelant. Hypoid 90 is not the same. Johnson annd Evinrude were the only ones that had an electruic shift that took a special fluid and I believe it was Premium Blend. If the motor is truly a 75, the shift is hydro mechanical. They stopped nmaking electric shifts in 1972. Make sure you change the fill and drain plug screw seals. My two plugs dont have any seals. Better go get some, might get water in there if you dont Hold on a minute! I don't mean to be disagreeable here, but I'd like something clarified. I do not know which type of shift this is. BUT, if it is a hydro-electric you must use type c, also known as premium blend. Never heard of any Hydro-mechanical- I strongly suspect there is no such animal. If mechanical shift use conventional Hi-vis LU oil. But if hydro-electric that will not work right at all. Lets make sure what we have here before deciding on oil type. Isn't this a conventional mechanical shift. I don't have a model cross ref handy. Also, my mid 60s V4 75hp had electric shift but it wasn't buttons. The shifter looked just like todays shifters. If the the shifter has two distinct thick cables (the same size) exiting the back of it, it's a hydro mechanical. Pick up a bunch, they'e cheap insurance. After 1977 (I think), they switch over to the purely mechanical units. 1972 and older are hydro-electric. The mechanical linkage changed the position slightly of a vertical shifting plunger which allowed a oil pump to force oil pressure into a specific area of the plunger (forward or reverse area). This pressure helped the operator to move the plunger, enabling the unit to shift into one gear or the other. I have no idea what Bombardier calls it. When the little old lady from Passadena finally died, everyone else had the strength to shift without this device so it was discontinued. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I havent yet bought a manual. The OMC drives are VERY finicky about shift cable adjustment. If it's not right you can do serious damage to the drive assembly. Didn't change until 1994. I think it is original equipment since it is a PWS model. FYI I think it is original equipment since it is a PWS model. FYIThere's an ESA etc. The Hastings article will probably still be a lot of help too. You may need a lower shift cable, an Electronic Shift assist Module, replacement micro-switches, shift cable adjustments, or all of the above. Look for the neutral safety switch. It's probably in the actual shift quadrant on most boats. When you are in anything except neutral they open the circuit preventing you from actuating the starter solenoid.Cheers, Rick I wanna make sure its right and not screw anything up! I wanna make sure its right and not screw anything up!There's section in Hastings that mentions to unhook the throttle cable to isloate the shift cables. As mentioned in Hastings several times, it should shift smoothly with little effort. As far as the drive having problems comming out of gear, that's what the ESA is for. Both the manual and Hastings cover this. I usually prefer to be a do-it yourselfer but I dont believe I will be adjusting this beast on my own. How much should I expect to pay for someone to adjust this for me and how much time is involved. Thanks I just picked up a 19 ft Sylvan, 1988, with an OMC 4.3 and a Cobra outdrive. I adjusted the cable per the manual and the article, and it shifts great now. Good luck. Includes 2 parts for correct installation. Install and tighten the retaining screwRefer to the service manual on re-installing the outdrive back onto the bell housing, and. Our library is the biggest of these that have literally hundreds of thousands of different products represented. I get my most wanted eBook Many thanks If there is a survey it only takes 5 minutes, try any survey which works for you. Currently, there are 0 users and 1 guest visiting this topic. If you are talking about the mechanical parts of the box, go to OMC System Matched Parts Lookup. At the bottom of the page it will say parts books schematics. Click on that, ignore the email request and chose Johnson or Evinrude in English or French. After that you can look at any year from 1968 to 2011 and accessories. All accessories, all control boxes. Part numbers, but no prices. Go to ME for that. Hope that helps! My question is, when you go to start the motor, does the box allow for a slight advancement of the throttle to get the motor to kick over? Shifting gears is what stops the engine from cranking. The ignition system is not involved. Depending on which box you have you either have a button you push down while advancing the lever for faster throttle in neutral. The other style you pull out on the shift lever and advance the throttle I think. I may have this confused with the concealed side mount controls. When the control box is in gear this connection is broken. Hope that explains it. Or how would we start the motor up if it was throttled way down in neutral and off? You told me BRP so that was a no brainer. I have looked at all of BRP single binnacle boxes and they have the same BLACK button just behind the handle on the box mounting bezel. In neutral you press it down and advance the lever to advance the throttle only. When you bring the lever back to neutral the button will pop up and you are ready to shift then again as normal. The handle can be put on in any position and you must find neutral before the button can be pushed to disengaged the box from shifting. You may have it out of sync if you haven’t mounted it yet. While we are at it, I want to clear up any confusion anyone has over this type kill lanyard this motor uses. That means all the device does is turn the key off. Once the lanyard is pulled off you can restart the motor if need be and continue on. Before OMC had an electrical kill switch that grounded the ignition system with a switch activated when the lanyard was pulled off a button switch. Some boat manufacturers still install that switch today, but most are just the mechanical type. They simple turn the key off when activated. Definitely a two handed affair. Did you get the kill lanyard explanation. Not very happy with that dialogue after posted. Must have been sleepy. A lot of people have trouble understanding why they can start their motor back up with the lanyard in their hand. So different than before. Puts all of the responsibility on the user. I have come to the conclusion that the little 20hp won’t reach WOT because of wear and slop in the whole throttle mechanism. Someone mentioned this and after looking over each area I believe I’m just losing a little here and there resulting not enough movement to reach the desired affect. Done worrying about it. Designed by Infinite Web Designs. We strongly believe that This manual covers the topics that a factory service manual (designed for It will take you By using the information in this manual, any boat Even if you never plan on touching a wrench (and if so, we hope that we If you are not the type who is prone to taking a wrench to something. NEVER FEAR. The procedures provided here cover topics at a level virtually And just the fact that you purchased this You may find that maintaining your system yourself is From a monetary standpoint, it could also be If you are unsure of your own mechanical abilities, at the very least you It should also be noted that in most areas a factory-trained mechanic will This hourly rate is often Of course, if even a seasoned or a. Professional you'll find'the procedures, specifications, special tips To help you decide if a task is within your skill level, procedures will Before spending any money on parts, and before removing any nuts or This will give you the So read ahead and plan ahead. Each operation should be approached Don't be lulled into thinking you can If you hook up A piece of masking tape, for example, placed on a hose and another on Do remember that tape will dissolve If a component is to be washed or cleaned, use another method of SAFETY is the most important thing to remember when performing Be sure to read the information on safety in this Proper maintenance is the key to long and trouble-free engine life, and A properly maintained engine performs As a conscientious boat owner, set aside a. Saturday morning, at Keep all receipts for parts As a do-it-yourselfer, these receipts are the It's necessary to mention the difference between maintenance and repair. Maintenance includes routine insoections, adiustments, and reolacement of For example: draining and refilling the oil is maintenance Failure to do this While no maintenance can Two basic rules should be mentioned here. First, whenever the Port side Conversely, the Starboard means An easy way to remember this is: Corny, but effective. And if you are really dense (and we This can be especially Occasionally, there are some things when working on an engine or drive Yourselfer. This shouldn't include most of the topics of this manual, Some engines require special tools or a Talk to other boaters who use the same model of engine and speak with You will have to decide for yourself where basic maintenance ends and Take your time and do your If you've gotten into something that may be over Tuck your tail between your legs and call a marine On the other hand, even the most complicated repair is within the ability See Figures 2 and 3. When purchasing parts there are two things to consider. The first is To get quality parts, always deal directly with a reputable retailer. To get the An incorrect part can adversely affect your engine Just remember, a tow back to shore will cost plenty. That charge is per Fig. 2 By far the most important asset in purchasing parts is a So whom should you call for parts. Well, there are many sources for the Your marina can supply you with many of the common parts you require. Using a marina as your parts supplier may be handy because of location In addition, it is always a good idea to get to The marine parts jobber, who is usually listed in the yellow pages or Almost every boating community has one or more convenient marine Since they cater to the The lowest prices for parts are most often found in discount stores or the Parts sold here are name and And, of course, more and more large There are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work. Following the incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or adjustment. When taking something apart or putting it together, performing steps in the Perform everything in the order in which the instructions say you should, When you're taking apart When making adjustments, perform them in the Digital cameras are handy. While it is more common for Especially when dealing with plastic If a torque figure is not available, remember that The pitch of most threads is so Cross-threading is more It helps to clean and lubricate fasteners, Always start a fastener, Keep in mind that Don't put a wrench on the part If you suddenly In 1971 Congress ordered the. Coast Guard to improve recreational Aside from these federal regulations, there are state and local laws you State and local laws are available Most boats on waters within Federal jurisdiction must be registered or They also include the territorial Coast Guard as they are for large The boat must be Its owner must be a citizen of the Doing so gives legal notice that such instruments This gives Copies will not If you use it mainly on an ocean, a gulf, or other similar If you use your boat solely for racing, it may be exempt from the Some states may also exclude dinghies, while All states, except Alaska, register boats. In Alaska, the. Coast Guard If you move your vessel to a new state of You may be cited if you do not have You must paint or The registration number must be clearly visible. It must not be placed on If you can't place the number on the If that doesn't work, put it on the Then, firmly attach it to the forward half of the boat. The letters and numbers Use a space The color of the characters must contrast with that of the background, and In some states your registration is good for only one year. In others, it is Renew your registration before it expires. At Place them as required by Some states require that you show only the current decal or decals. If your If your vessel is lost, destroyed, abandoned, stolen, or transferred, you If you lose your certificate of number or The number Since August 1, 1984 a new format has been used. Your boat's HIN must appear in two places. If it has a transom, the If it does In this case, it must be within one foot of the stern On pontoon boats, it is on This is on the boat's Required equipment, for Manufacturers may measure a boat's length This line is parallel to its keel. The length does not include bowsprits, boomkins, or pulpits. Nor does it Manufacturers must put capacity plates on most recreational boats less The capacity plate Coast Guard certification plate indicates the amount of Manufacturers are required to put compliance plates on motorboats At the manufacturer's option, the capacity and This statement, commonly quoted over 20 years ago, Gasoline fumes in the They are heavier Because of this danger, Coast Guard regulations require ventilation on Whatever the The following is not intended to be a complete discussion of the General Precautions. Ventilation systems will not remove raw gasoline that leaks from tanks or Use it! If you smell gasoline The smaller Ventilation for Open Boats. In open boats, gasoline vapors are dispersed by the air that moves Engine and fuel tank The open area There must also be no long, Ventilation for All Other Boats. Powered and natural ventilation are required in an enclosed compartment Natural Ventilation System Requirements. A natural ventilation system has an air supply from outside the boat. The Intake openings are required. In addition, intake The system must also have an exhaust duct that starts in the lower third Each supply opening and supply duct, Openings and ducts Openings should be placed so exhaust gasses do not enter the fresh air Intake and exhaust openings must be covered by cowls or similar Most often, intake registers face forward and exhaust openings aft. This aids Power Ventilation System Requirements. See Figure 5. Powered ventilation systems must meet the standards of a natural The blower duct Openings in engine compartment, Fig. 5 Typical blower and duct system to vent fumes from the Coast Guard regulations require that your boat have certain equipment Class A-fires are of ordinary combustible materials such as paper or Class B-fires involve gasoline, oil and grease. Class C-fires are electrical. Class D-fires involve ferrous metals This is why it is so important to The best fire extinguisher for most boats is a Class B extinguisher. Never Additionally, you should never use water on a Class C fire as it may cause If your boat meets one or more of the following conditions, you must have The conditions are. Inboard or sternbrive engines. Closed compartments under seats where portable fuel tanks can be Double bottoms not sealed together or not completely filled with Closed living spaces. Closed stowage compartments in which combustible or flammable Permanently installed fuel tanks. Boat is 26 feet or more in length. Fig. 6 An approved fire extinguisher should be mounted close to Contents of Extinguishers. Fire extinguishers use a variety of materials. Those used on boats usually Dry chemical Carbon dioxide is a colorless and odorless gas when released from an It will not support life and keeps oxygen from But the air does not contain enough oxygen to Halon Extinguishers.