manual for swift challenger 2015 water system
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manual for swift challenger 2015 water systemI replaced Timing belt, tensioner, water pump, ect. Realigned timing using mark on crank pulley and mark on cam gear with valve cover case. No compression, engine won't start. No marks on rear cam gear. Where should the cams be positioned in relation to TDC of crankshaft?Place timing belt on crankshaft sprocket (if reusing belt, observe direction of rotation). Install lower part of timing belt cover. Install vibration dampener. The hole in the vibration damper must be located over the raised part on the crankshaft timing belt sprocket. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. If necessary, align camshaft sprocket-to-cylinder head cover positioning marks and vibration damper-to-timing belt cover positioning marks. See Fig. 14 Install timing belt in this order: water pump, tensioning pulley, camshaft sprocket. NOTE:If the timing belt tensioner has not been restrained and is at its travel limit, it must be pushed back in the installed position together with the pulley. This procedure can take up to 5 minutes. When compressing the tensioner, excessive force can damage the tensioning pulley. Push pulley on counterclockwise in direction of arrow with a socket head wrench using even (but not excessive) application of force until tensioner piston can be locked with Locking Plate (T10008). See Fig. 15. Turn eccentric bolt counterclockwise in direction of arrow using special tool (3387). See Fig. 21. Hold eccentric bolt in this position and remove locking plate. Turn eccentric bolt clockwise to right in direction of arrow until a gauge with dimension of 8 mm (e.g., drill bit) can be passed between tensioning lever and tensioner housing. See Fig. 22 Hold eccentric bolt in this position and tighten pulley nut to specification. Turn crankshaft two complete turns by hand in direction of engine rotation until crankshaft is at TDC again. Mark on camshaft sprocket and mark on crankshaft must be at TDC cylinder 1. See Fig. 14.http://fc-junajted.com/upload/field-manual-herbarium-techniques.xml
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Check dimension between tensioning lever and tensioner housing with a gauge. Dimension should be 6-10 mm. If dimension is not obtained, tension timing belt again. Go to step 3. Install center and upper timing belt cover and ribbed belt tensioner. Tighten fasteners to specification. When installing ribbed belt, make sure that direction of rotation is correct and that belt is installed correctly to pulleys. Torque all fasteners to specification. Let support stop rest on rubber buffer for torque support with its own weight and tighten bolts to 21 ft. lbs. (28 N.m). See Fig. 23. NOTE:Before installing bumper, check for the presence of threaded pins at bumper rear edge as well as expanding clips and sleeves in the fenders. Always replace bumper retaining bolts. Slide bumper onto impact absorber and re-connect hose (1) of headlight cleaning system and electrical harness connectors (2). See Fig. 7. Move bumper into installation position. Make sure threaded pins in bumper side edges engage into holes at the fenders. Install bumper retaining bolts until bumper can stay in place without any assistance. Do not tighten completely allowing for any necessary adjustments. Pull back wheelhousing liner (A). See Fig. 3. Engage bumper rear edge into catch (B). Torque nuts. Repeat procedure on opposite side of the vehicle. Torque left and right retaining bolts to specification. Install left and right air inlet grille on bumper. Remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.I just want to know before I put my vale cover back on, how to verify the precise position of the cams. Should both key slots on rear cams be at the 12 O'clock position to ensure both cams are in tune. Are there any hard to locate timing marks on rear cam gears? See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Mark on camshaft sprocket and mark on crankshaft must be at TDC cylinder 1. See Fig. 14 I screwed up and move the cam with the belt off trying to find the sweet spot. Now my car won't start.http://nakajima-ya.com/user_data/image/finepix-f11-manual-download.xml Was asking if you could tell me by looking at the valve train (valve cover off) are there any distinguishing marks to verify the dual cams are in tune with crank at TDC. If the cams are not timed, would that be the cause of my low compression problem. Is there a procedure. Is the cam mark on outer wheel with valve cover my only way to verify correct timing? Hope this helps Was running a little rough. I bought a timing belt kit and replaced all. I noticed that the original belt tensioner was loose and excessively worn. After I replaced parts and put front end back together, car fired right up. I drove it for about 45 days, however the check engine light was on. I bought and replaced sensor - no change. After a month of research several forums confirmed that the cam timing was off by one tooth. I tore everything down again to adjust timing and haven't been able to start car. Sounds like engine is just spinning with no compression. Timing marks perfectly aligned. Let me know I Needed To Replace The Timing Belt An Camshaft Drive Chain.Hi, The Timing Belt Has Broken On My 2.5v6 Diesel Am I Likely. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Audizine Family today!To start viewing posts, select the forum section that you want to visit from the selection below.Register or Log In now!Then I'll give you a breakdown of the tools and parts necessary to do this job, recommend additional optional parts to replace, and give you a walk-through of the job step by step with a few tips along the way. I know that a lot of people visit the main forum and few go to the B7 A4 Tech section, so I thought I would post here first so that people can see the walkthrough before I have it moved to the tech section. I hope to make this process simple and less overwhelming so that anyone who can keep track of where their bolts and harnesses go can do this job with confidence. Please feel free to use the videos as a supplementary reference to this DIY.https://labroclub.ru/blog/ads-2600w-manual Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Symptoms: Metal clinging or slapping sound from back of valve cover at idle which may or may not go away under load. P000A check engine light sometimes precedes serious symptoms and may be intermittent. Power loss, poor fuel economy or limp mode with check engine light. Causes: Most commonly, the plastic guides for the timing chain on the tensioner break. Poor cam follower maintenance causing metal pieces, flakes and shavings to enter cam cover causing tensioner to wear prematurely. By reading further, you acknowledge that you are performing these tasks at your own risk of bodily harm or injury as well as any malfunction of your vehicle which may require costly repair. This is pretty much required. You will be taking off the timing cover, however the ECS kit only provides the gasket for the main housing. The gaskets to rebuild the vacuum pump and cam adjuster seals which will almost certainly be worn or broken are not included with the kit. Rear Coolant Flange replacement kit. The rear coolant flange is prone to leaks and is difficult to get to due to its location. This is an ideal time to easily replace this piece. N205 valve. This may or may not be necessary. If you threw a P000A code, it might be a good idea to easily replace this. Pressure Control Valve (PCV) replacement kit. You will be removing your OEM PCV, which is prone to failure causing high oil consumption rates. The ECS kit comes with a new PCV gasket, but getting the complete PCV kit is always a good idea since most of the top of the motor will be removed making replacement easy. Make sure you buy the correct kit. ECS has 2 kits, one for models up to 2006 and one for models after 2006. You can double check which one to buy by referencing your VIN with their staff. Spark plugs are also a good idea for general maintenance at this time. It is behind the coolant hard pipe in this image. 17.) Using pliers, loosen the clamp to disconnect the rubber fuel hose from the hardline ( refer to other walkthrough for HPFP with banjo bolt fittings ). I have upgraded my HPFP internals, so my clamp was replaced with a worm clamp for easier install and removal. 18.) Using T30 Torx, remove the 3 bolts securing HPFP to head and remove the HPFP and cam follower. Make sure to replace the o-ring around the HPFP when reinstalling. 19.) Using T30 Torx, remove the 2 bolts on the front of the timing belt cover. 20.) Disconnect the timing sensor harness. 21.) Using T30 Torx, remove the bolt securing the timing sensor in place. It may be difficult to fit a ratchet in this space. Click on the link for the video of Timmy from Astral Auto Repairs performing this technique. 22.) Remove the timing sensor. 23.) Using T30 Torx, loosen the 14 bolts on the valve cover. 24.) Using a flathead screwdriver, gently pry open the driver?s side of the valve cover by twisting at bolt holes. Watch Timmy from Astral Auto Repairs perform this step by clicking here. 25.) Lift up on the valve cover and pull it off of the PCV hoses to the turbo. Watch Timmy from Astral Auto Repairs perform this step by clicking here. 26.) Remove the timing belt cover. 27.) Using T25 Torx, remove the 4 bolts on the PCV and remove the PCV. Replace the PCV gasket and PCV. You may skip this step if you do not intend to replace the PCV. 28.) Using pliers, remove the clamp on the vacuum hose from vacuum pump to break booster and remove the hose. You will have to replace this clamp with a worm clamp when reinstalling. 29.) Unplug the N205 harness. 30.) Using M5 Triple square bit, remove the wire harness bracket and move the wire harness out of the way. 31.) Using T30 Torx, remove the top 2 bolts on the vacuum pump. 32.) Using T27 Torx, remove the bottom bolt on the vacuum pump and remove the vacuum pump. It might be difficult to find, so use this picture with the ratchet in place along with landmarks to help. 32a.) Note that a bracket with one of the big 3 ground wires found in the engine is secured into place by this bolt. The T27 bolt goes through the hole circled. This needs to be reinstalled back into place or the car will not run right. 33.) Remove the vacuum pump. There are 4 on top and 3 on bottom. Of the bottom bolts, there is one on each end of timing chain cover and 1 in the middle. You can locate it by feeling for a groove on the bottom surface of the timing chain cover. The bolt on the bottom passenger's side should be easy to find. Be careful not to mistake rear coolant flange bolts (silver) for the middle lower timing chain cover bolt (black). Use the pictures below to help find the bottom driver's side and middle bolts: 34a.) Bottom driver's side bolt on the timing chain cover. 34b.) Bottom middle bolt on the timing chain cover. It is located within the groove on the bottom surface of the timing chain cover just above the top of the rear coolant flange. You will need to use a 4 inch extension to reach it. 35.) Pull out the timing chain cover and inspect the 3 seals on the cam adjuster inside. Clean out any oil and debris from the inside of this cover. Notice that 2 out of 3 of my square seals on the adjuster unit were broken. Although ordering these seals is not required to do this job, it is highly recommended. Also, if you have had a P000A code, it would be a good idea to replace the N205 valve. 36.) Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Make sure to pull the hand break up and place some kind of stopper under the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling before performing this step. Not taking these precautions may seriously injure or kill you! 37.) Using flathead screwdriver, remove quick screws securing belly pan. (Image sourced from Cottonmouth's Snub Mount Installation thread). 38.) From underneath the car, pull the harness off of the radiator fan and move it out of the way to provide more room accessing the crank pulley. You do not have to undo the harness as it is fastened to a metal clip. You can pull on the entire harness and the clip will come off of the radiator fan, allowing you to move the harness out of the way. DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANK PULLEY COUNTERCLOCKWISE!!! You can ensure this by aligning the mark (painted silver in the picture) on the exhaust cam gear with the arrow on the timing cover. Make sure to keep the polydrive socket and breaker bar as straight as possible. You may want to have a friend help. Click here to watch Timmy and Marcus from Astral Auto Repairs perform this step! 42.) Remove exhaust cam sprocket and chain. 43.) Using T30 Torx, remove the 3 bolts securing timing chain tensioner in place. At this time, it is a good idea to replace the rear coolant flange. Look at how much room you have to work. It won't be this easy if you have a coolant leak from the rear coolant flange down the road. 46.) Slather a small amount of engine assembly lube long the plastic chain guides on your new timing tensioner. 47.) Using T30 Torx, install the new timing chain tensioner. Note that in the picture, the copper link is facing toward the front of the motor while the timing mark on the intake cam sprocket is between the 2 pins of the corresponding link (This arrangement is highlighted by the red box). 55.) While taking care not to let the timing chain slip off of either sprocket, install the exhaust cam sprocket with timing chain onto the exhaust cam. If you are having trouble installing the exhaust cam sprocket, click here to use Timmy's vice grip trick as shown on Astral Auto Repairs! 56.) Place 2 pairs of vice grips onto the exhaust cam, as shown by Timmy from Astral Auto Repairs. Leave the belly pan off for now. 62.) When installing the vacuum pump, make sure to line up the slot going vertically. You can see that after the timing is set, the slot should be arranged vertically in the top right corner of the image.) 60.) When installing the valve cover, make sure to put the bolts through the gasket before placing it on the head. You should be able to turn it upside down without the bolts falling out with the gasket on, as shown in this picture. 60a.) Here is the torque sequence for the valve cover. 61.) Change the oil and oil filter. Add coolant if you replaced your rear coolant flange. 62.) Turn the key to the ignition on position to prime the fuel system. Give a couple of quarter starts to prime the oil system. Start the car and let it run for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Check for any leaks. If you replaced the rear coolant flange, make sure to leave the coolant reservoir uncapped and set your climate control to the highest heat setting with the lowest fan setting. Allow the car to get to temperature and massage the front rubber coolant hose to remove any air bubbles from the cooling system. 63.) Take the car out for a leisurely drive to ensure everything is in working order. Once you are satisfied that the car is running well without leaks, reinstall the belly pan. Congratulate yourself on completing one of the most difficult jobs on this car. Here is a picture of all the valves, sensors, hoses, and seals I replaced: A final special thanks to Timmy from Astral Auto Repairs for the initial guidance and confidence to do this job, and for allowing me to simplify his approach to make this DIY. Added oil, ratchets, and 5mm allen wrench and clarified drive sizes to required parts list. Fixed a few typos. Edit 2: Added valve cover torque sequence.I know that a lot of people visit the main forum and few go to the B7 A4 Tech section, so I thought I would post here first so that people can see the walkthrough before I have it moved to the tech section. The most difficult part of this job is ensuring that the exhaust (cam adjuster) sprocket bolt is not stripped when you are removing it and that the timing is set right before you close everything up. Oil filter, 5w40 oil, and spark plugs are also a good idea for general maintenance at this time. I don't have a Bentley Manual, so I went with Timmy on this one. If anyone can provide a figure with source from the Bentley Manual, I will update this with the most correct figure. I have upgraded my HPFP internals, so my clamp was replaced with a worm clamp for easier install and removal. 18.) Using T30 Torx, remove the 3 bolts securing HPFP to head and remove HPFP and cam follower. Make sure to replace the gasket around the HPFP when reinstalling. 19.) Using T30 Torx, remove the 2 bolts on the front of the timing belt cover. 20.) Disconnect the timing sensor harness. 21.) Using T30 Torx, remove the bolt securing the timing sensor in place. Watch Timmy from Astral Auto Repairs perform this step by clicking here. 26.) Remove the timing belt cover. 27.) Using T25 Torx, remove the 4 bolts on the PCV and remove PCV. You will have to replace this clamp with a worm clamp when reinstalling. 29.) Unplug N205 harness. 30.) Using M5 Triple square bit, remove wire harness bracket move wire harness out of the way. 31.) Using T30 Torx, remove top 2 bolts on vacuum pump. 32.) Using T27 Torx, remove bottom bolt on vacuum pump and remove vacuum pump. Be careful not to mistake rear coolant flange bolts (silver) for the timing chain cover bolts (black). Also, if you have had a P000A code, it would be a good idea to replace the N205 valve. 36.) Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands. 37.) Using flathead screwdriver, remove quick screws securing belly pan. (Image sourced from Cottonmouth's Snub Mount Installation thread). 38.) From underneath the car, pull the harness off of the radiator fan and move it out of the way to provide more room accessing the crank pulley. I apologize for only having a picture of this from above, but you can find it in this location easily from underneath. 39.) Use 19mm 12 point socket to rotate crank pulley CLOCKWISE until top dead center. DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANK PULLEY COUNTERCLOCKWISE!!! You can ensure this by aligning the mark (painted silver in the picture) on the exhaust cam gear with the arrow on the timing cover. 39a.) You can ensure that your timing belt is timed correctly by looking at the timing mark on the crack pulley and cover to make sure they align as well. If your intake cam is timed right, the slot which the vacuum pump lines up with should also be going up and down. 60.) When installing the valve cover, make sure to put the bolts through the gasket before placing it on the head. You should be able to turn it upside down without the bolts falling out with the gasket on, as shown in this picture. 61.) Change the oil and oil filter. Can ya dig it? Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app Thank you very much for this. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using TapatalkOr should OEM be used?This is a great resource though, and thanks for putting this together. Most particularly, your section on setting the chain timing correctly is awesome and a good use of marking the chain so that you don't have to keep counting links.I will continue to update this DIY to make it more complete with everyone's suggestions and critique. I am sure I missed some things or may have made some typos, so please feel free to comment with any suggestions or additions to this walkthrough! Or should OEM be used? If ECS assembles the kit alongside OEM parts using Bremmen for the chain and tensioner, I would suspect that there should be no quality issues. I managed to take a screenshot before you removed it in your edit. Do you mind if I use that picture and add it to my DIY for more completeness? This is a great resource though, and thanks for putting this together. Most particularly, your section on setting the chain timing correctly is awesome and a good use of marking the chain so that you don't have to keep counting links. If ECS assembles the kit alongside OEM parts using Bremmen for the chain and tensioner, I would suspect that there should be no quality issues. ! I managed to take a screenshot before you removed it in your edit. Do you mind if I use that picture and add it to my DIY for more completeness? I'll PM youBy far the toughest job will removing cam adjuster bolt.Also there is a slot in the end of the intake cam for turning it to get the pin to drop in place on the exhaust cam. I personally found it easier to just count the spaces between pins, that the sprocket teeth sit in, but its the same so doesn't matter.Good write up though and should help out.By far the toughest job will removing cam adjuster bolt.Also there is a slot in the end of the intake cam for turning it to get the pin to drop in place on the exhaust cam. I personally found it easier to just count the spaces between pins, that the sprocket teeth sit in, but its the same so doesn't matter.Good write up though and should help out.Personally, I found it hard to overcome the fear of stripping it instilled by all of the horror stories, but once I got to it, it was relatively straightforward - keep everything straight and at 90 degrees while adding force to break it free. In hindsight, this seems a lot easier than it was in the moment, and it is a very rewarding feeling to feel comfortable putting everything back together and hearing the car start up smoothly. You're right about the slot at the end of the intake cam and there is a specialized tool for it, but the vice grips serve the same purpose. Thanks for adding more info and references, Theiceman. It's great to have input from those who have done this job to get a perspective on their experience.Personally, I found it hard to overcome the fear of stripping it instilled by all of the horror stories, but once I got to it, it was relatively straightforward - keep everything straight and at 90 degrees while adding force to break it free. It's great to have input from those who have done this job to get a perspective on their experience. I am not sure if this lasts for the car's lifetime.If you have an early build car and want to tackle this job, make sure you have enough money put aside in case you need to replace the cam phaser and housing. The early cars used hard sealing rings and depending on mileage, the rings can wear grooves into the phaser. If you pull your phaser and there is no wear inside and the teeth are good, just replace the seals on the housing with updated ones and reuse your phaser. If you break the rings removing the cover, make sure you get all the bits out. Sent from my iPhone using Audizine I am not sure if this lasts for the car's lifetime. However, it almost surely does not last the life of the car, especially if the cam follower has not been properly maintained. Worn out cam followers crack and break off in large pieces which may interfere with the timing chain and the plastic chain guides on the tensioner. This may cause the plastic guides to break off resulting in failure of the tensioner. I listed the causes and symptoms at the beginning of the DIY, which should guide your judgement as whether the timing chain and tensioner need to be replaced.You can also look at the cam phaser position with VCDS. My car sounded pretty loud after my ride to work everyday. Sounded decent at start up, different after 40 minutes of driving. Mine had the worn out cam phaser in my pic. The tensioner has plently of material left but it had a hairline crack. You can visual inspect the tensioner and cam phaser just by taking the back cover off. You?ll need to replace the gasket and cover oil seals if you take it off. You?ll need a new HPFP and vacuum pump O ring too.There are plenty of ?normal? noises become from our engines that don?t really sound 100 normal but are. Generally happens on cold start, sounds a bit like a metal baseball card slapping on bicycle spokes. I used to get that occasionally actually. Since I replaced the timing housing gasket that was leaking I?ve not had it happen once. My guess is that the oil leaking out the gasket was causing enough of an oil pressure loss in the head when the engine was off to allow the tensioner to sag and the chain to slacken just enough to slap a bit.It was more a difference of volume than of type. With the window closed at first start up I couldn?t hear my engine at all. Got to work, I could hear the noise from the head. Now with the new phaser, chain and tensioner my car sounds new. Quieter than it?s ever been. I can?t hear it at all with the windows up. Just the exhaust.I would like to know the steps about inspecting the cam phaser position. I know the basics about running a full scan and testing some electrical components.Like step 6 in the following link. Like step 6 in the following link. The cam tool used in step 6 of the linked walkthrough is used to rotate the intake cam toward the exhaust cam to give slack to the timing chain when installing sprocket and chain as in steps 54 and 55 of this post. Alternatively, you can use vice grips on the intake cam, as Timmy from Astral Auto Repairs does, to rotate it for these steps.I see that ECS carries the Audi part for less than Amazon sells the Assenmacher one. Which is best?Thank you for posting it. I've been following Tim's videos as well, but still have some questions. My 2.ot fsi Passat lost timing, and I'm trying to decide what parts need to be replaced. If it's the valves, I'd be going a very different route. - The teeth on the timing belt are good. - The tensioner had strong spring response (I compared it to a new one I bought), and all the plastic guides were complete. - The chain was still on and tight, but the colored link wasn't anywhere near where it would be if someone had used it as a reference, when installing the chain. I know someone could have just not used the colored link as a reference, but I have a feeling this is the original parts from the manufacturer. - The cam adjuster looks good, except for the alignment pin was sheared off. I don't know if it broke when the engine lost time, or if I broke it while working on it. (I also don't know how to tell if the adjuster is good, but it sounds like there's good sealed suction when I tilt it in my hand) - The cam adjuster seals were in place, but brittle and one was broken. - The cam follower was good with minor wear. - The lobes on the cam end were clean with no deformation. - The HPFP tested good. - All of the seals looked good. - The one thing I know is that about a month before the failure, I pulled the cam sensor out and it may have been damaged. - The car never started, but I was able to get a P0301 and a P0100 code. My questions: - Could a bad cam sensor, N205 have caused this, or maybe chain stretch? - Since the belt, the the chain, and the tensioner were still good, I would think the cams were still turning in sync, but out of time. Seems like a pretty simple part. - Could that sheared pin in the cam adjuster be the cause? (I really thing the pin got ripped off because of the timing failure.) I know this is a lot, but I appreciate any help or knowledge you might have. Here's where the chain was when I pulled it. Thank you for posting it. Here's where the chain was when I pulled it. If so, you may have to think about checking out your valves and most likely will have to take the heads off. This DIY would not be adequate for that job. I'm not sure why the timing chain would be off the reference point if everything was as you stated, or why the pin would be sheared off of the cam adjuster. Maybe someone with more knowledge about the front timing and belt can provide better answers.I think the answer is obvious.BTW that pin can be sheared when loosening the adjuster bolt.That said now you need to do at least the chain.Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app I cannot use the cam alignment tool to hold it in place since the exhaust cam is cracked.I cannot use the cam alignment tool to hold it in place since the exhaust cam is cracked. But either way the approach is the same. Do not touch the exhaust adjuster bolt. You have to remove the upper cradle anyway to replace intake cam. At that point you can just move the exhaust cam out of the way to do the tensioner and chain. Then set up your timing. Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app If you have an early build car and want to tackle this job, make sure you have enough money put aside in case you need to replace the cam phaser and housing. Sent from my iPhone using Audizine You simply break the metal seal rings off the old housing and replace with the plastic set that the updated housing uses.You simply break the metal seal rings off the old housing and replace with the plastic set that the updated housing uses.Works great Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app I'll try to keep this concise. It's a long story, and I don't have a lot of mechanical knowledge. The car started running rough. A scan return only one code, which was a cylinder one misfire. I found a ton of oil on the plugs. I put a new coil on cylinder one, replaced all the spark plugs, replaced the valve cover gasket, and replaced the PCV. The car ran fine for about two months. One day I drove it and shut it down. I came back in about thirty minutes, and it would crank, but wouldn't start. I had the car towed to my house. I found Tim's Astral Auto Repair videos. Tim's video is where I discovered that I lost wasn't getting compression. My car was making the same very unique sound when cranking as in the video. First thing I did was test the HPFP, and it pushed about 80 PSI. Next, I confirmed that the belt was intact, with good teeth, and was turning with the pulley. Next I confirmed the intake cam was turning, by looking through the oil fill neck.