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john deere operators manual 2240 tractor 0 349999 2240 tractorLci 1 Hydraulic Slide Web Owners Manuals can only be downloaded after you have registered and will be your full ownership. You can also download in a variety of formats such as PDF, epub, and also document MS word. You will not be charged the slightest cost because everything we provide here is free.You can use the lookup column to search for any document headings.Sign Up and Get Your Books. Only units in dealer inventory are available. Some items shown are not included as standard or optional equipment. Videos and product photos are current as of time of shooting and may not reflect product enhancements. Main Components. 5 Mechanical. Electrical. Operating System. Extending Slideout Room. Retracting Slideout Room. Manual Operation. Preventative Maintenance. System Diagram. SERVICE. Fluid Fill Procedure. Troubleshooting. Chart. Power Unit. Bad Cylinder. TRAVEL LOCKS. Controller 3 SYSTEM WARNING FAILURE TO ACT IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE FOLLOWING MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. The Lippert Hydraulic Full Wall Slideout System is intended for the sole purpose of extending and retracting the slideout room. Its function should not be used for any other purpose or reason than to actuate the slideout room. Before actuating the system, please keep these things in mind: 1. Parking locations should be clear of obstructions that may cause damage when the slideout room is actuated. 2. Be sure all persons are clear of the coach prior to the slideout room actuation. 3. Keep hands and other body parts away from slideout mechanisms during actuation. Severe injury or death may result. 4. To optimize slideout actuation, park coach on solid and level ground. DESCRIPTION The Lippert Hydraulic Full Wall Slideout System is a hydraulic cylinder drive system. Utilizing a bidirectional electric motor to actuate the pump, moving fluid from the reservoir into the hydraulic cylinders to extend the room and pumping fluid back to the reservoir to retract the slideout.http://newayskazakhstan.kz/upload_picture/how-to-make-a-turn-on-a-manual-car.xml

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The Lippert Hydraulic Full Wall Slideout System is designed as a negative ground system. There are no serviceable parts within the pump unit. If the motor, manifold, pump or reservoir fails, the entire power unit must be replaced. Disassembly of the motor voids the warranty. Mechanical portions of the slideout system are replaceable. Contact Lippert Components, Inc.A standard handheld drill is all that is required. See the instructions below. Fig Remove protective label. (See Fig. 5). 2. Using a standard hex bit, insert into auxiliary drive device, i.e. heavy duty electric drill Fig Insert hex bit into coupler found under protective label, Fig Run drill forward or clockwise to extend jacks and in reverse or counterclockwise to retract jacks. 9 10 PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE The Lippert Hydraulic Full Wall Slideout System has been designed to require very little maintenance. To ensure the long life of your slideout system, read and follow these few simple procedures.It is recommended that when operating in harsh environments and conditions (road salt, ice buildup, etc.) the moving parts be kept clean and can be washed with mild soap and water. No grease or lubrication is necessary and in some situations may be detrimental to the environment and long-term dependability of the system. MECHANICAL Although the system is designed to be almost maintenance-free, actuate the room once or twice a week to keep the seals and internal moving parts lubricated. Check for any visible signs of leaking before and after movement of the system and the coach. When the room is out, visually inspect the Inner and Outer Assemblies. Refer to Fig. 1 for location of inner assemblies. Check for excess buildup of dirt or other foreign material; remove any debris that may be present. If the system squeaks or makes any noises it is permissible to apply a coat of lightweight oil to the drive shaft and roller areas but remove any excess oil so dirt and debris do not buildup. DO NOT USE GREASE.http://www.einart.no/fck_uploads/how-to-make-a-turn-in-a-manual-car.xml ELECTRICAL For optimum performance, the slideout system requires full battery current and voltage. The battery must be maintained at full capacity. Other than good battery maintenance, check the terminals and other connections at the battery, the control switch and the pump motor for corrosion and loose or damaged terminals. Check motor leads under the coach chassis. Since these connections are subject to damage from road debris, be sure they are in good condition. 10 11 Note: The Lippert Hydraulic Full Wall Slideout System is designed to operate as a negative ground system. A negative ground system utilizes the chassis frame as the ground source. An independent ground wire back to the battery is not needed. It is important the electrical components have good wire to chassis contact. To ensure the best possible ground, a star washer should be used. Over 90 of unit electrical problems can be attributed to bad ground connections. Note: For long-term storage: It is recommended that the room be closed (retracted) and if your unit is equipped with the IRC room control, it is recommended all of the control knobs be kept in the closed position. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS OR QUESTIONS CONSULT YOUR LOCAL AUTHORIZED DEALER OR CALL LIPPERT AT: (866) 12 13 14 SERVICE FLUID FILLING PROCEDURE Fig. 8 The Lippert Hydraulic Full Wall Slideout System uses automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Any ATF can be used. The see through reservoir makes it easy to check oil level. It is recommended that the oil level be checked prior to operating the system. Make sure the breather cap is free of contamination before removing, replacing or installing. Note: Do not allow any contamination into reservoir during fill process. Note: System is self-purging. These four components are as follows: chassis, slideout room, coach and Lippert Hydraulic Full Wall Slideout System. Each one needs to function correctly with the others or misalignment problems will occur.https://78as.it/edifier-s530-manual Every coach has it s own personality and what may work to fix one coach may not work on another even if the symptoms appear to be the same. When something restricts room travel, system performances will be unpredictable. It is very important that slide rails, inner and outer, be free of contamination and allowed to travel freely the full distance or STROKE. Ice or mud buildup during travel is an example of some types of contamination that may occur. When beginning to troubleshoot the system, make sure the battery is fully charged, there are no visible signs of external damage to the actuator, motor or rails and that the motor is wired properly and all connections are secure. You can adjust room extension by modifying the position of the adjustment coupler. During troubleshooting, remember, by changing, altering or adjusting one thing, it may affect something else. Be sure any changes do not create a new problem. Additional information on the Lippert Hydraulic Full Wall Slideout System by calling and asking for technical assistance. 15 16 TROUBLESHOOTING CHART The following troubleshooting chart outlines some common problems, their causes and possible corrective actions. When reference is made to a Power Unit, the term includes the motor and the actuator as a complete unit. All Power Units are shipped from the factory with a serial number and date code, which should be given to the service technician when asking for assistance. ROOM DOESN T MOVE WHEN SWITCH IS PRESSED PROBABLE CAUSE Restrictions both inside and outside of unit CORRECTIVE ACTION Check for and clear restriction Low battery voltage, blown fuse, defective wiring Check battery. Charge battery or add auxiliary power source. Check battery terminals, and all other wiring. Look for loose or corroded connections Power Unit not functioning See Power Unit Troubleshooting page 20 Hydraulic Slideout Manual online at POWER UNIT RUNS, ROOM DOES NOT MOVE Restrictions both inside and outside of unit Check for and clear restriction POWER UNIT RUNS, ROOM MOVES SLOWLY Low battery, poor ground, extremely low Charge battery, and check ground wire outdoor temperature. Do not attempt to troubleshoot the Pump Unit without assuring a full 12V DC charge The following tests require only a DC voltmeter (or DC test light) and a jumper lead. Step 1 - Attach voltmeter (or test light) leads to the negative and positive switch terminals on back of wall switch. Does the meter indicate 12V DC. If YES, see Step 2; if NO see Step 3. Step 2 - If YES, at the motor, check the incoming leads to 12V DC (if necessary, disconnect leads at wire splices). Does meter indicate 12V DC. If YES, Pump Unit needs to be replaced. The motor is not field serviceable.Repair connections as necessary. Recheck as in Step 1. Step 3 - If NO, Inspect all connections between battery and switch. Inspect 50A Auto-reset Circuit Breaker. Recheck as above in Step 1. TROUBLESHOOTING - ELECTRICAL Since there are no field serviceable parts in the motor of the Pump Unit, electrical troubleshooting and service is limited to replacing only those components as previously outlined. Thorough inspection of wiring and connections is the only other electrical service that can be performed. 17 18 TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKING FOR BAD CYLINDER 1. Retract (close) the slideout (room) completely. 2. Loosen hose from E (extend) port on the manifold of the Power Unit. WARNING- Do not attempt to run room out with the E port hose loose. If there is no fluid flow, reconnect hose to E port and tighten. WARNING - Be sure to reconnect and tighten hose at the E port before attempting to extend (open) the room or the system will experience RAPID FLUID LOSS. Contact qualified technician if there is excessive fluid flow. The cylinder should not be repaired in the field. Refill the Power Unit Reservoir as recommended on page 14 of this manual. 18 19 TRAVEL LOCKS The Lippert Slideout Travel Lock System is an electrical component that locks the unit s slideout room(s) into place while the unit is traveling. The locks prevent the slideout room(s) from inadvertently creeping out or extending during the transportation of the unit. The Lippert Slideout Travel Lock System is set up to work AUTOMATICALLY with the operation of the hydraulic slideout room(s) contained in the unit. When the EXTEND button is pushed, the Lippert Slideout Travel Lock System will disengage and the slideout room can then extend. When the RETRACT button is pushed, the slideout room will retract and the Lippert Slideout Travel Lock System will engage and lock the slideout room into place. MOUNTING PLATE ADJUSTABLE AXLE STOP BLOCK or PUCK ROLLER BEARING LIMIT SWITCH DRIVE HOUSING THREADED DRIVE ROD 12VDC MOTOR Fig. 9 19 20 TRAVEL LOCK CONTROLLER The Lippert Slideout Travel Lock System works together with the hydraulic pump for a Lippert Hydraulic Slideout. The Lippert Slideout Travel Lock System Control Box, Fig. 10, brings the electronic information in from the hydraulic pump and sends it out to the Travel Locks, telling them when to open and when to close. The program works with the activation of the hydraulic pump to allow the Travel Locks travel time to clear the stop blocks when the slideout room is extending or retracting.Main Components. Mechanical. Rev: Page 1 Sofa Slideout Owners Manual Rev: Page 1 In-Wall Slide-out Owner's Manual June How to use the Service Guide: Each segment of the Rev: Page 1 LCILevel-Up MotorhomeLeveling (2013-Present)OwnersManual June How to use the Service Guide: Square landing gear is no longer available. Required Table of Contents CHAPTER 3 - BASIC INFORMATION for PERFORMING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM MAINTENANCE The chart will guide you step by step to help correct these problems. For successful Only authorized and trained service Inadvertent shorts inside the Battery Control Center could result in severe damage Introduction. Table of Content WARNINGS Preparing the Gate Capacity: 10 Tons To use this website, you must agree to our Privacy Policy, including cookie policy. Designed with a rear garage and opening for your “toys.”Nobody knows this better than us. A subsidiary of Thor Industries, Inc. We will do our best to keep this web site up-to-date, but real time changes are not always possible. Be sure to review a current model at your nearest authorized Heartland dealer and discuss and review with your dealer any possible changes on new products being ordered from the factory. The direction is controlled by a combination of valves. Look for any objects that don’t belong there. Using caution not to cut yourself, run your fingers around the inner and outer seals, between the slide and the RVs wall opening, top and sides.It could be the slide out is out of adjustment and needs re-aligned. Make sure you have the the proper crank handle. If you don’t have a manual, contact the RV manufacture or slide out component manufacturer for that information. If that is not possible then it would be worth the expense to have an RV tech show you how to do it. And you should know how before you need to do it. The direction is controlled by a combination of valves. Look for any objects that don’t belong there. Using caution not to cut yourself, run your fingers around the inner and outer seals, between the slide and the RVs wall opening, top and sides.It happened to us! Always listen for unusual noise and watch for erratic movement whenever you operate your slide outs. It could be the slide out is out of adjustment and needs re-aligned. Make sure you have the the proper crank handle. If you don’t have a manual, contact the RV manufacture or slide out component manufacturer for that information. And you should know how before you need to do it. The slide will slide in but will not slide out by the electric motor. I can slide it out manually with no problem. Could this be a bad switch? Thanks If your slideout is hydraulic it could also be the solenoid valve. If we email you some pictures of the gear box, can you ID the manufacture. It is a rack and pinion drive. Rushmore, slides move out when going down the road. Have tried numerous things. Out of ideas. Has a full slide on driver side. Slide worked perfectly Thu while loading. Arrived at dest Thu pm and remote did not engage slide. Did engage jacks. Was told to use manual system by turning switch to manual and hand cranking slide out. Worked smoothly til about half way out and something snapped.Need to travel tomorrow. Any suggestions. Tks. The trailer itself is level but one slide out is not level. How do I correct this. Is there something I need to adjust to correct this? It is very noisy when it slides in or out. Any suggestions? Maybe metal. Go outside and listen. Get under the slide (be carful while the slide is in operation) and listen. If you are able to pinpoint the cause you will know what needs to be repaired and whether or not you can do the job yourself. The keyword their is some, the manual for my slide-outs specifically say not to lubricate. Can still hear motor run A good RV repair shop should be able to get parts or maybe repair your broken parts. Here’s a link to a directory of RV parts salvage companies that may be able to supply the parts you need. Other that the oil leaking it works great.When I move the slideout in it makes no unusual noises. However, when moved it out it clunks a bit. I have liberaly lubricated it. What do you think is wrong with the slidout system? Your bets chance of finding out what’s wrong is to try and isolate where the clunks are coming from. Have someone operate the slide while you listen. Go outside to listen if you hear the clunks better. The slide goes out fine, but when I bring it in, the slide continues to come in even after I let go of the switch. It does not happen every time. Loose wire, bad switch, something else? Only a systematic diagnostic process will find the source of the problem. I’m trying to get the bedroom slide motor and drive box out can’t find away to get at motor end.I have not let out the three slides for two years. I hit the switch, I hear the motor but the slides do not come out. Will the pump work even if the battery is low but the pump runs? Have to jockey with it to get it back in straight. Any ideas? Slide comes in but after sitting a while the bottom slides back out. Any thoughts on what problem might be? It’s a tract system with gears. It has up and down adjustments underneath that would raise and lower the back side of the slideout. Question I have is what supports the inside edge as the slide moves in over the trailer floor. It only makes a “click” noise at the “Trombetta”, and a click is heard somewhere back around the refrigerator somewhere. It will run the motor if the “In” button is pressed, but will not run the motor if the “Out” button is pressed, except once every hundred or so clicks. Any other suggestions? Was bringing in the main living room slide yesterday, slide came in a little bit, but began jerking and wouldn’t move inwards anymore. It goes out without any problem, yet won’t come in without jerking and stopping at a certain point. Suppose to leave for Nascar races in few days. HELP! Karen The Hudralic pump is hard to get to and I don’t know how much oil is supposed to be in the pump but it is about half full. The adjustment on the valves, how do you do this and what happens if you do something wrong, I would assume that the pump would only put out so much pressure. I re4placed a portion of the floor but I made sure that the splice was inside the metal slide part at the bottom. Any input is appreciated. Thyanks Mel One of them will not seal all the way and leaves quit a big gap. We live in it in snow country and have a Local Rv Repair guy comming to look at it but he does not know much about the slide outs. Could it be out of ajustment and if that might be the problem how can it be ajusted. If so, you may have a leak in a hydraulic hose or valve. In the past, and maybe still today, RVs with hydraulic slide outs came with slide out bars that are inserted between the RV wall and the flange on the slide out. They are primarily used while traveling to prevent the slide outs from extending while on the road but may be used anytime. There are a handful of different slide out systems so it’s impossible to give you specific advice even if I was an expert, which I am not. My advice it to hire an RV tech who does know about slide outs. You may also want to contact the manufacturer for advice if possible. It is rack and pinion. When it is moved to the out position the bottom of the slideout stops but the top continues to move. When I move it in the bottom moves first and I have to literally pull on the top before it will move on it’s own. It has me very puzzled. Any idea’s would be welcomed. It was working fine about 45 minutes before we tried to open it again. Any help would be great!! Two possibilities to look for. You really need to get this fixed before the problem gets worse. A repair that could be simple and relatively cheap could turn into a several thousand dollar problem if left to get worse. It attempts to move, but appears to hang on the opposite side of the slide from the hydraulic piston. It extended without a problem when I arrived on Monday. Any suggestions. A friend in the park did call a tech and he asked me to close the valves (4) and open them one at a time and see if that would allow the slides to retract, I followed his advice and it allowed me to retract the two opposing living room slides, but didn’t help with the dinning room slide. I have reservations about slides from maintenance viewpoint. However, it occurred to me that if someone would make a narrower RV, I could feel more comfortable driving it. And use slides to give back space. Any chances of such an RV? There are a few who never really get used to it but most do and it doesn’t take all that long. Practicing turning and backing in a large empty lot helps a lot. There are also RV driving schools and the people who have attended say they’re a great confidence builder. There is a trend to smaller lighter towables but adding slideouts to them would defeat any weight saved by making them smaller. No help from fletwood or dealer in Medford, OR. We have put about 5000 miles on it. We are finally getting the electical system fixed with the new and improved regulator that fleetwood changed to in ’07 because the ones that was installed were defected, and caused us to have to replace all six batteries. Fleetwood sent one of the old type regulators to the repair shop and of course it died also. Now we are having trouble with the large sideout. Our RV has been in the shop all summer and is still there in November. There is no help from Fleetwood. The drivers side window has separated. I got the answer, sorry we do not honor former Fleetwood manufactrer warrantees I know there is a Federal Lemon law for RV’s, that I am going to look into. I am not the only one out there that has concerns. The first thing that failed were the brakes, not installed properly. It was a scarry ride. One would think the company who bought out Fleetwood and kept the Fleetwood name would be happy to help former customers. Can you explain in more specifics what your trouble is. The culprit has always been leaking then the reservoir runs dry (without you knowing) and getting air in the lines. Plus, one time a solenoid blew apart and had to limp in 300 miles to a dealer. HWH, the company who built the system have so many problems with their junk you have to get on a 2 week waiting list just to get a call back for tech support. Winnebago would be smart to use another sub-contractor for their hydraulics, one who can make a good product that will not break down every time you use the coach. These problems reflect on Winnebago who builds an outstanding coach. Fuse is ok, in panel in front drivers side. How can I bring it in manually need pics. 2006 tiffin phaeton. Thanks Is this seal thing true? There are many different slide mechanisms and they all operate somewhat differently. It’s not possible for me to give you specific advice. Here is some basic advise. If so, and it’s still not working right, take it back and make them fix it. Asking other owners is the best way to get answers. Most likely at least a few other owners have had the same problem and can offer specific advice. If you are still under warranty, ask your insurance company’s assistance. For sure they know the answers. Or, if you want to do it your way, join RV communities (such as forestriverforum) and ask the experts. Slideouts have a rubber gasket that acts kind of like a squeegee to keep the slide mostly weather sealed as it moves in and out. My guess is that gasket is what you are hearing. But to be sure you should check with your trusted RV tech. It is a 2008 Keystone Hornet. We can get absolutely NO help from CAMPING WORLD where we purchased it from, and was told to either replace or repack the seal. Do you think that this is the way to go with the repair. It was initially set up long term for about 5 years, without the slides being moved in or out. We have just recently started moving it from place to place and not we have this problem. Thank you so much for taking the time to get back to me. If the leak is a slow leak then you may want to give the seal a little time to soften up and re-seal. Operate the slide several times over a few days and see if it is still leaking. I’m not an expert on hydraulics but I what think haveing the ram repaired will be cheaper than purchasing a new one but in a throw-a-way world I may wrong. So get a price for both. If the leak is bad enough that it drains your reservoir over a short period of time I would add some power steering or automatic transmission stop leak to refill the reservoir. You can get just the stop leak or you can get the hydraulic fluid with the stop leak as an additive. Which you use would be determined by how low the reservoir is. If it half full the add the fluid with additive. If the reservoir just needs a top-off then just add the stop leak. Again this is not advise. I’m only telling you what I would do. If you try it let me know if it did or did not work. Be sure to tell him the camper slide has not been operated for several years. We just bought a new 27ft travel trailer, however the seller just put a new battery in it. The slide out works great, however nothing else will work on the battery. We changed the fuses and that did not work. Please help Also: any suggestions to troubleshoot why it won’t operate. Already checked fuses. Everything else (electrical) works fine.Our DC disconnect switch is located near our water hookup area on our camper. We have to insert an orange plastic key to turn it on. This will help run some of the lights and the ignitor if u have a fridge that runs off LP. Damaged both sides under the wheel wells. Now there the electric button that runs on both electricity snd battery does not work. We can only open manually. Any suggestions on where to start to repair? It is the easiest to check and almost always the problem. Next, check to see if you have power the the switch. If you don’t have power to the switch then there is a break in the wire from the fuse to the switch. If you do have power the check for power to the motor. If you don’t have power to the motor then there is a break in the wire from the switch to the motor. If you have power to the motor but the motor doesn’t run then it is an issue with the motor. One of the sliders in the back bedrooms wont come out and had to be hand cranked out. Does anyone have an idea how we can fix this The slide out went out fine but won’t come back in. I here the motor working but it won’t move (it moved about a foot in really slow but won’t move anymore. It is a hydraulic system. Any ideas how to get the slide back in? I know an RVer who got caught in the middle of nowhere with a slide that didn’t want to go back in. He is a handyman type so it wasn’t a big deal for him but I don’t know if I would want to do that. We could push it in manually but we were afraid it would just slide back out while driving so we had to leave it behind. Is there a belt or something that could have broke. It wouldn’t move at all. Help! The living room slide with the fridge etc.I check all my fuses and breakers and all are good. I was stymied so I pulled a large belly plate (not sure if that is the right terminology) and removed all the insulation to reveal the mechanical racks. Located the square knob and was able to use a wrench to open my living room slide so I could use the RV while parked at my ranch in a large barn I had built for it. I suspect I will need to replace what looks like a gear box on the living room slide because oil seems to be leaking in that area. I also suspect since all my fuses and breakers are OK, that I’m getting low voltage out of the battery. I’ll pull the battery before cold weather hits and test it. Not much room for me to work there. At first I was a tad intimidated. I didn’t get a manual with my Sunnybrook and just started taking things apart.I will use slide floor n outer wall in place. How do I do this? Please help. Ours seem to be stuck. Also does humidity affect it? Meaning one side was staying further out than the other. We put the slide back out and tried again and hydraulic fluid started leaking from underneath the corner that was dragging. We were able to finally get the slide all the way in evenly and the leak stopped. What do you think could be going on. I sure hope we can resolve it ourself and not bring it in for repair;( Once you have that fixed you can try to move the slide. If it works properly then all is well. Otherwise, diagnose and repair. My bet is that once the leak is fixed the slide will work properly. It has been parked and not used since Oct. 2014. Battery has been unhooked and it is winterized. I have two questions. Does the battery have to be hooked back up to put the slide out or will it go out by just plugging up the electricity. Also, I do not plan to put any water in the RV until there is no chance of freezing weather. Will it harm the water heater by plugging it in. The heating element rod has been removed. Thanks! With no water in the heater tank you could damage the tank or the electric element if you turn the water heater on. Slide creeps out about an inch after closing. Is this due to a small hydraulic fluid leak.?? Any adjustment I can make? Lately, my slide out does not want to operate when it is all the way in. If I take the manual crank and move it a little then it goes out and in smoothly with no problems. I thought I remembered reading that they should not be lubricated but thought a little grease on the gears at the start might help. Let me know what you think. Thanks My slideouts are mechanical rather than hydraulic and there is a clutch on the motor. You can hear it working at the end of the slide travel before you release the switch. I have experienced the same thing you describe and have needed to use the manual crank on occasion. I believe the problem is caused by a weak clutch but I have not tried to fix it since the problem happens infrequently.