ford ranger manual transmission shifting problems
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ford ranger manual transmission shifting problemsIt's a five speed and the shifter went into fifth gear and got stuck. It acts like it's in neutral but I can make the shifter move at all. It has plenty of clutch fluid. I'm assuming I'm going to need to pull the transmission to see what's wrong. How hard will this be. And good recommendations on a manual to walk me through the transmission and if need be the replacement and rebuild of it? Now it's no longer stuck in any gear Can't start truck as no pressure in the clutch. How It's a five It has plenty of clutch fluid. Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. So yesterday it was shifting fine then all The Ford Ranger is a well built truck that was often sold with a manual transmission. If you're a Ranger owner who is encountering clutch issues, this 29 Dec 2016 Manual Transmission won't go into gear Mazda B-Series Specific. It acts like it's in neutral but I can make the shifter move at all. 15 Dec 2012 I own a 94 Ford Ranger with a manual transmission that my dad bought from a Don't give intentionally bad, harmful, or deceptive advice. Does this problem happen also when you put the gear in reverse. It sounds to me like your clutch does not fully disengage when you press on Hello, I'm new to this. My truck will not shift into any gear. It has been making a high pitch noise as i accelerate from gear to gear the last couple. Complete guide to contracting your home, Guide to pc gaming, Contact form member, Guide parent sense sex talking thinking, Phantom gig guide. Reload to refresh your session. Reload to refresh your session. We can't connect to the server for this app or website at this time. There might be too much traffic or a configuration error. Try again later, or contact the app or website owner. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.http://areicon.com/images/ffviii-manual.xml
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I've spoken to a couple mechanics and done some homework online, but I know just enough to be dangerous. The previous owner bought it in 1993, and claimed the odometer had rolled over twice.) Synopsis: Last week, I went to start up the truck (relatively cold, it had been moved from one parking lot to another an hour earlier), and it would not go into first gear with the clutch fully depressed. Attempting to put it in reverse resulted in a grinding sound. The truck was towed to a shop. It worked perfectly. They looked at it, drove it around, and could not locate the problem. After picking it up, the truck was driven by my father for an hour or so, and it acted up again - this time while driving. While shifting from gear to gear, he was locked out, stuck in neutral. Towed again, worked when it got to the shop, once again they couldn't find the problem. I picked up the truck and drove it home without incident. This is my daily driver, and despite its high mileage, the truck is in excellent condition. Right now, however, I'm hesitant to take it out since the issue could cause serious problems on the road. A friend with some experience suggested a problem with the pilot bearing. Finally, I've spoken to another mechanic, who (in consultation with a Mazda tech) said it's most likely the slave cylinder. Since replacement requires dropping the transmission, he also suggested a clutch kit, master cylinder, and flywheel. This last diagnosis seems consistent with known issues mentioned here. My mechanical experience is limited. I've changed brakes, hoses, belts, a water pump, an alternator - but I've only ever assisted with dropping a transmission once, and that was mostly just as an extra set of hands. That said, I'm a grad student with a two-week school break coming up, and I have a few friends who are, if unskilled, at least willing to help. Questions: Does the slave cylinder diagnosis seem sound. Is there any way to confirm this without dropping the transmission.http://epsilon-imaging.com/ffx-2-everyman-s-repair-manual-key-item.xml Best I can tell, this transmission was used on Rangers from 1988 to 2000. Would an instructional video like this be helpful, even if it's for a newer Ranger. I'm decently handy - would I need any special tools to drop the transmission. Your thoughts are appreciated. You can turn the truck off put it in gear push in the clutch to activate the neutral safety switch. Turn the key and it'll launch forward. Truck will run get the rpms high enough then you let of the gas and pull it out of gear. Rev and pull it into the next gear when the rpms match it'll fall into gear. In 5th gear I could push the pedal to the floor and get the rpm to raise a few hundred. I'm betting its the slave. Its common in these trucks. Honestly clutch work is not hard. The hardest part is dropping the tranny. Just becauae three like 50 bolts to turn and often not much room. Once its apart its pretty self explanitory. Like its eeasier that pulling the transmission.Hardest part is getting to it. I don't remember the exact order the parts go in. I ussually just put them in reverse of how hey came out. But only seem to remember bolting the flywheel on. Torque it down. Then put the clutch on it put the alignment tool in. Then bolt it on. Then replace your slave and throwout. Actually I think I do throw out first. Any who its super easy once your in there If you've got a decent set of tools, can bleed brakes, and got a decent jack. So that's a good price. I say do it. If you need any help ill post back. I think I'm going to try and do it myself beginning of next week. I'll post back if I run into any issues. A master cylinder sounds more likely as it has ports which must be covered by the seals inside to build pressure. A bad pressure plate wouldn't be intermittent. A scorched pilot bearing might drag when hot, but also sounds unlikely. I think you should start with a new master cylinder and fresh fluid if you don't see any fluid leaking from the bellhousing May try that first.http://www.familyreunionapp.com/family/events/dell-axim-x30-manual-download It doesn't make the sound when it's running, and at the moment things are functioning properly, though I've only driven it around the neighborhood block. Maybe a little mushy. I checked it today, and it's a little mushy now. Not as crisp as it used to be. Planning to replace the master cylinder tomorrow just to see if that'll do it. We'll see how that goes. If that doesn't work, I'll look at dropping the transmission. Thanks for the suggestions. Bench bled the clutch before putting it in the truck, then bled out the entire system. The good: Everything seems to be operating fine. I drove the truck around my neighborhood without a hitch. The bad: I think the pedal still feels a little soft, but that might be my imagination. I'm also not sure, but the clutch might be releasing a little closer to the floor than it used to. This seemed to fix itself as I drove, however. Finally, there's a squeaking noise coming from the clutch area again (under the truck). The truck did this once before, and then it went away, but I've recorded it in case that helps anyone diagnose the problem. I need to have any potential issues taken care of by next week. Thoughts are definitely appreciated. Listen to the clutch squeak here: EDIT: I recorded this with the truck off, in neutral. Each cycle you hear is the pedal being pushed to the floor, then travelling back to the rest position. The somewhat soft pedal does usually resolve itself. I think you should be good for right now. For what it is worth, if you do clutch and throw out bearing, while apart it might be smart to do pilot bearing. I don't know how much more that is. A transmission guy I asked opinions on my current problem (only when really cold) says his initial opinion is it is a pilot bearing. The clutch has less than 15K miles on it. His comment was that people replacing a clutch often just grease up the pilot bearing which helps for awhile, but while apart it is better just to replace it. I can't speak for how good advice that is, but it makes sense to me. It is entirely possible replacing the master cylinder has resolved the issue. I would drive the heck out of it see if the problem shows up. Make sure to work the clutch. Just an anecdote that may have no relevance. I had a flakey throw out bearing. At first it made grinding sounds, then intermittent sounds like bearings were missing and one day it just went clunk and made no noise except if I held the clutch in for extended periods. I didn't seem to have trouble disengaging the clutch, perhaps a bit low, but I quickly adapted and learned to avoid heavy clutch use. As I approached a stop, as I would let off the gas I would put some pressure on the shift and it would slip out of gear as load came off (sometimes I had to give a little gas if it was already engine braking). I would then only use the clutch a moment to go into gear when I needed. I did the same thing when shifting between gears remove load using gas, pull it to neutral and use clutch just when putting it in. The point is that during that time, there were a few occasions when someone else drove that BII. And each time the person would claim to have problems like it stalling when coming to a stop, hard to shift gears, etc. The clutch would just barely be disengaging and if I drove it right after they did I saw the problem. In one case I had to go rescue the person. And sure enough the clutch wasn't disengaging. I nursed it home not using the clutch. In all cases the next day it was fine and I would never have any problems till the next time someone else drove it. I don't know if that was just throw-out bearing which is what I was told the original issue was or something else on top if it. To me they seemed related since the disengaging problem started after the cluck and noise stopped (well except for the squeal if I held the clutch in too long). And I am not sure why it behaved like it did. My only guesses were that either with using the clutch only just for the short periods I would move just a little further where leaving it depressed in longer let some pressure bleed down.I don't know. It does have some superficial similarity to what you described where it stopped working and started working again. With engine running, if you just hold in the clutch does it start to make a squealing noise. Might require someone listening from outside the truck. With mine, I really only could hear it if I was at a drive thru window of some sort where the wall would reflect sounds from under the vehicle to the open drivers window. Whatever that issue was, it went away when clutch and throw-out bearing were replaced. As a bit of extra insurance it doesn't hurt to learn how to drive, get thru gears without using a clutch. The synchro will resist as off but when RPM match it will slip in without any grinding. Just be gentle with it. Not recommended for daily driving but in a pinch can get you home or at least save you a tow. As swanx mentioned you have to start it in gear which is a bit brutal. I can usually get thru all the gears pretty easy, but usually only go as high as 5th cause down shifting is quite trickier and 4th isn't too bad to have to drive in. When stopping I just slip it from gear into neutral after taking engine load off using gas, but then you have to turn it off to start again. I can do a down shift in a pinch for a turn but they tend to be trickier and more likely to mess up and get some grinding. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I would get to a stop light, put it into neutral and it would not allow me put into any gear without a struggle. Then it would shift without a problem. Anyone have any guess what the problem might be. After 17 years, this is the first time I needed to have it worked on. They replaced the flywheel as it was well worn but had more time on it (Worn, no cracks). Had the same issue with a Toyota. Turned out to be a leaky slave cylinder. The leak was internal so there was no visible leak. He already checked the cylinders and fluid. Of course that doesn't mean that they are always correct. ): You say the leak was internal: internal to the transmission or the bell housing? I believe that it is what directly links to the flywheel then it has been considered. On that previous note, I meant to ask the location of the slave cylinder. Bell housing or transmission. I ask these because everything outside the transmission itself has been inspected and replaced if needed. We have a 2003 manual Ford Focus in good nick. Problem - intermittently it won't change gear, have to turn engine off and on to be able to move gears. Garage say problem is probably because 'clutch pipe between slave cylinder and master cylinder is leaking and cracked'. Does this sound right? Thank you It was totaled, but honestly, it was close to being in that state BEFORE the accident. My vehicles of choice are aged, small rice-burner station wagons. This is a legacy of me having been a PI who clocked 40,000 plus miles a year and needed a vehicle I wouldn't ever have to die for at 3am, alone, at, as my old friend Willy would put it, down at 5th and Zimbabwe, looking for jamokes that robustly didn't want to be found. To illustrate, I'm presently rocking a 1999 Saturn SW2 (Saturns remain underrated cars), lol, even as my late father's 6,000 mile Lexus Rx300 molders in my driveway (don't ask.) Some folks seem to need huge trucks or big guns or whatnot in order to, ummm, compensate for certain physiological shortcomings, but I am blessed with a gargantuan dong, so it's real-life dinky toys pour moi. Good luck with your beastie, OP.We have a 2003 manual Ford Focus in good nick. Does this sound right? Thank youIf the fluid stays the same, then no leakage. It may indeed have air in the line which wreaks havoc, but it is typically not intermittent.Turns out, you are exactly right. The garage noticed that the brake fluid levels had dropped. They checked the brakes first and found no leakage. Then they found that the clutch pipe had fractured and hence the leak that caused the problem. Problem now repaired and car seems fine, touch wood. Thanks again. It's smaller than an Accord. It's smaller than an Accord.I'm annoyed at you because you're lazy and stupid and felt the need to burp out both in your needlessly stupid and annoying reply. The above was literally the first sentence in the body of my reply. Catching on yet, Leroy? But thanks heaps for the personal attacks. Really makes me feel welcome on the forum. But thanks heaps for the personal attacks. Really makes me feel welcome on the forum.He is old, sensitive and suffering from andropause. Also delusions of grandeur about his dong from what others on the forum say. The CPU prices especially ! All rights reserved. England and Wales company registration number 2008885.All rights reserved. England and Wales company registration number 2008885.By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. It started occurring just this last Friday or Saturday (2011-06-24 or 2011-06-25). I was driving around 35 MPH, slowed down to a stop at an intersection, and when I put it back into 1st Gear to begin driving, I had extreme difficulty shifting the gear. I cut the ignition and started again, was able to put it into 1st Gear and made it home by coasting (getting into any of the other Gears was just as difficult, fortunately I was in the neighborhood). Following this, I tested it while parked the next day. Same issue. Then I tried double-clutching, which seemed to help out, but I only did it parked, since I didn’t want to strand myself on a road (I’ll take that risk when I go to a mechanic, though). For the past year or so, I’ve been driving 100 Highway miles for 4-5 days a week, for work (50 to work, 50 back home). Are there any other details I should provide? If the fluid is low enough it could cause these symptoms. If so, it’s not the transmission, although you should have the transmission lube replaced anyway. Would it be relatively easy to do and top up myself? When is the last time it was changed? Peri - of course you can shift with the engine off, neither end is moving I had these same symptoms, until the bracket completely went. Does your clutch use a cable or a hydraulic unit? Topping it up is as simple as removing the cover and pouring in clean brake fluid. Brake fluid is used for the brakes and the hydraulic clutch. Is it still worth topping off with DOT-3 brake fluid, even though it’s going to sit at an angle when I’m done topping off. Also, I noticed it was pretty dark, so should I do a complete clutch fluid change. I’ve read elsewhere that it’s a good idea to do so if it’s dark. Double-clutching does relieve it of all resistance, but I’m not sure how much longer I can get away with this. Any suggestions? Sometimes I could not put it into gear unless I turned it off first. Been having this problem for years. I had the clutch fluid replaced, and the truck had a complete tune up about 2 years ago. Clutch problems still keep happening off and on, just far enough apart that I would forget there was a problem. Now today, the “turn the engine off” trick did not work. I can not get the clutch to push in and I can’t get it into gear no matter what, also there is dark fluid all over the place. I had the clutch problem looked at before and they always said the same thing, “we replaced the clutch fluid and it looks fine to us”. I think the clutch locking up is a symptom of a bigger problem. We’re going to have to have the poor thing towed to have it looked at, before we know for sure. So, a transmission that won't shift into gear is a real problem. This can happen on vehicles with automatic transmissions as well as those with manual transmissions. Because we want you to get information about how to care for your Volkswagen, we've gathered six potential reasons that your transmission may not shift into gear. For most of these, it's best to have your VW inspected immediately. Fortunately, this is typically a quick and affordable repair at an authorized service center like ours at Archer Volkswagen in Houston, TX. The torque converter is an intricate part with components that include a pump, a turbine, a stator, and a transmission field. If any of these parts fail, the torque converter may make automatic shifting difficult. Even if you manage to get into gear, the transmission may slip in and out of gear. That's what allows you to shift gears, and most modern manual transmissions are operated with a hydraulic clutch. The clutch master cylinder is the part that's responsible for engaging the clutch, and it uses hydraulic fluid. If there's a leak or other issue with this system, shifting will most likely be far more difficult, or even impossible. If the linkage has been damaged or has otherwise failed, the shifter won't be able to tell the transmission that it needs to shift. However, we are seeing electronically controlled transmissions become more common, so there's a chance that your newer vehicle doesn't even have the traditional shift linkage. If this fluid is low or leaking, shifting may become difficult, or you may not be able to shift at all. If you notice a puddle of slick red or brownish fluid under your car, it may be the transmission fluid. You should have this looked at immediately. The symptoms of a manual transmission that’s hard to shift can almost always be narrowed down to a problem with the clutch or transmission. Looking for a good online repair manual. Click Here for the 5 best options. Note that if your car is only a bit harder to shift when the weather gets cold, you may not even have an issue as gear oil thickens up as temperatures drop. This is normal but changing to a different brand (or even viscosity) may help. But keep reading to make sure. There are 6 main parts of a clutch system: Clutch master cylinder Release cylinder Clutch cover Clutch disc Release bearing Release fork The clutch disc and input shaft transmission are engaged together. And the clutch cover is connected to the engine’s flywheel. When you push down on the clutch pedal, the pressure will transmit to the clutch master cylinder which pushes the release cylinder then pushes the release fork to disengage between the clutch cover and clutch disc. At this point, your car is in Neutral. This means that at that moment the engine spin (power) does not transmit to the transmission. This allows you to easily change gears with a manual shift stick. However, if the clutch master cylinder or release cylinder is damaged or leaks, it will make it harder to shift gears. This can happen because if the master cylinder or release cylinder is damaged or leaks, it can cause loss of fluid pressure which can make the clutch not disengage properly. The ring is made up of small teeth which allow it to smoothly be engaged by the hub sleeve and then into the main gear. Each gear has 2 teeth that are small and big. The purpose of the smaller teeth is to accept the hub sleeve’s engagement with the synchronizer ring. If these small teeth were to become damaged or worn out, it would be difficult to shift the transmission. And when a gear is shifted, the function of the bigger teeth is to engage the spinning counter gear which sends a transmission to the output shaft. If the big teeth are damaged or worn out, the transmission will make noise. For example, the hub gear goes between the first gear and second gear, and it goes between third gear and fourth gear. It is really like a bridge between these gears. Since the hub gear is connected to the transmission shaft, it cannot be turned freely. Depending on the location in which the gear shifts, the hub sleeve can also move to the right and left. The hub gear is like the deliverer of the engagement that lies between the main gear and the hub gear. There are small teeth on the hub gear that will synchronize with the teeth of the synchro ring as a gear shift takes place in the transmission. It is considered high viscosity (thick) since it has to put up with extreme heat. If your transmission is leaking oil or even if you do not change it periodically, you will have low oil in the gear. Once this happens, it will eventually become harder to shift it and ultimately, damage to your transmission will result. In addition, you may hear strange noises from your gearbox or poor vehicle performance. Conclusion Ok, so now you know the 6 common causes of a manual transmission being hard to shift. The reasons above most often occur with high mileage cars and trucks and some years and models are particularly susceptible to hard shifting issues. Drove to work fine, left work, started engine, pulled up 20 ft, changed into 2nd gear, car knocked off, after that car will not go into gear. Drove home in 2nd. Changed clutch slave cyclinder. Clutch is fine. I dont know Whats else it is. Please advise. Not worth putting alot of money into Reply autotechnician November 9, 2018 at 4:30 pm you mean the gear cannot shift from 2nd to 3rd. Reply Mandy May 11, 2018 at 9:31 pm My car is a peugeot 207 when engine is off gear stick goes in easy but when engine is on it won’t especially first gear what is wrong with it Reply vicente rosanes July 28, 2018 at 5:13 pm why is that only when changing gear from 4th to 3rd gear is hard to shift.Reply smithac November 15, 2018 at 9:37 pm Just wanted to throw this out there. Our 1999 Ford ranger was almost dry as a bone with brake fluid. There was a small leak from the hose to the reservoir. Put a clamp on, filled it up, shifts great. Reply Tony Robinson November 30, 2018 at 8:04 pm 2002 Honda Accord EX with a 5 speed manual. I have noticed the last few days that many times when shifting from 1st to 2nd it almost feel like it’s slipping, then this morning I had to force the thing into 4th gear on two different occasions. I am not sure what’s going on. Reply Tez January 16, 2019 at 9:01 am Triton 2009 Really hard to shift to 1 and 2? Mechanic fixes the clutch slave but still not doing anything ?? Reply Chavez March 14, 2019 at 12:55 am Have a 1991 Honda Accord, I was driving it and could not shift gears suddenly. I did notice the clutch pedal sticking. Made it back home and found that the slave cylinder was completely empty. I refilled it with Dot 3 brake fluid and had to pump the clutch pedal several times to get it to even move. That worked for one day, next day still no shifting so we bleed the clutch and was working great. A week later, once again very hard to shift, cylinder is still full. However I did notice fluid underneath the master clutch cylinder. My mechanic has not looked at it but saying could be a total replacement of nearly 1200 bucks. It is a 1991 and I only 2000 bucks for it, I don’t see spending that much. I love my little car and just hoping it is the clutch master cylinder, I believe I could replace it myself. Any thoughts ? I would be grateful. Reply Victor Fowler August 12, 2019 at 6:50 am First thing you should do is fire your mechanic, preferably out of a cannon over shark infested waters. Second, go on YouTube and watch some clutch replacement vids specific to your car. There are probably a hundred of them as that was a popular model if afterwards you think your capable of doing it then it would seem to me you just found yourself an honest mechanic. And if any other issues come up then remember YouTube has tutorials for almost everything and is a great resource in times of needing solutions to problems. Good luck my ninja, I hope this helps. Reply Mike April 17, 2020 at 7:11 am Everyone on here worried what there car is worth and if it’s worth it to spend money to fix it, I think its funny because just because kbb says it’s worth 2000 or even less doesnt mean anything, all brand new high quality tires are alone going to run over a 1k. Kbb doesn’t create the value of your car, I have a 2000 Buick regal doesn’t say its worth much but I have hundreds of hours in labor and 1000s in upgraded parts. Dont just rely on those appraisal sites like kbb to make a decision on fixing something. If you love your car why not spend the money Reply Israel Ramirez March 18, 2019 at 3:08 pm Hi so I have a 2006 Mazda rx8 and I’m having a problem shifting gears it won’t go into gears and if I force it in it will grind and the engine will seize but now I’ve changed the clutch, master clutch cylinder, and the slave cylinder but also what I don’t get is when I jack the car up from the back and the wheels are free the gears are able go in without a problem but when I put the e-brake and keep in mind the car is still lifted, the gears won’t go in. It’s only when the wheels are freely rotating is when I’m able to shift but one I put the ebrake or put the car down it won’t go into gear someone please help me Reply brokemiataguy August 28, 2019 at 7:45 am if there’s resistance from the wheels still, then the clutch may not be properly aligned and therefore not disconnecting completely. Reply Russell March 19, 2019 at 11:33 pm Had a 1998 Pajero that I sold a year ago. It was intermittently difficult to engage 1st or Reverse gear when stationary and especially with a cold engine (fast idling). With the clutch pedal depressed you could notice some drive torque getting to the wheels when you were pushing the gear lever against the synchro while trying to get it into gear. So it should have been well and truly released with the clutch pedal on the floor. Also, I never noticed any drive torque when I was idling in gear with the clutch pedal depressed. Any torque getting through this bearing tries to rotate the input shaft against the synchro trying to stop it (when the vehicle is stationary). Is this something that you have observed or am I dreaming. After 5 min. Car still running. I got it forced into gear n ran smoothly. But gears hard. Im 73. Clutch replaced long ago. When in reverse i have to crumch gears to get it to go bkwards. So i pray its not something big. I put 2500 4 sale as is on it. Cars in great condition. Hope to sell as is to someone who will have money to fx it. I need automatic at 73 its busy in orlando. I need to mk life easier 4 myself n not worry about car troubles. I live in sr housing. Just need car to see dr n get groc. Reply autotechnician April 8, 2019 at 9:59 am I’m sorry you’re having issues shifting. It could be something as simple as needing to adjust the shift linkage or a gear fluid change. A dragging clutch is also common for Volkswagens where there is too much slack in the clutch pedal (easy fix). I think it’s great you’re driving a manual at 73 but completely understanding wanting to go to an automatic. Reply Shane April 30, 2019 at 12:14 pm Hi, My Kia 2009 Pro’ceed has been acting up too. Mostly 1st and 2nd gear is really difficult to shift. I don’t want to just bring it to a garage for them to automatically say it’s the worst case scenario i.e. most costly. This isn’t occurring when it’s cold or warm it has been continuous the last month or so. Any advice on the most likely diagnoses?? Thanks!!