culture wars in america a documentary and reference guide
LINK 1 ENTER SITE >>> Download PDF
LINK 2 ENTER SITE >>> Download PDF
File Name:culture wars in america a documentary and reference guide.pdf
Size: 2675 KB
Type: PDF, ePub, eBook
Category: Book
Uploaded: 5 May 2019, 16:33 PM
Rating: 4.6/5 from 767 votes.
Status: AVAILABLE
Last checked: 9 Minutes ago!
In order to read or download culture wars in america a documentary and reference guide ebook, you need to create a FREE account.
eBook includes PDF, ePub and Kindle version
✔ Register a free 1 month Trial Account.
✔ Download as many books as you like (Personal use)
✔ Cancel the membership at any time if not satisfied.
✔ Join Over 80000 Happy Readers
culture wars in america a documentary and reference guideDOWNLOAD LINK (please download this PDF first to open the link)This is a COMPLETE Service and Repair Manual for your.DOWNLOAD LINK (please download this PDF first to open the link)This is a COMPLETE Service and Repair Manual for your 1974-1984 Kawasaki KZ400. Motorcycle. It covers every single detail. All models, and all engines are included. Detailed illustrations, exploded diagrams, drawings and photosThis manual for 1974-1984 Kawasaki KZ400. Motorcycle can be viewed on any computer, as well as zoomed and printed. All repair proceduresSave yourself Big money by doing your own repairs. This manual makes anyThis high quality manual covers everything: For example: General Informatio. Please try again.Please try again.Please try again later.Please try your search again later.Most Manuals Also Include Color-Wiring Diagrams. This Manual Covers the Following Kawasaki Models: KZ400 1974-1995 KZ440 1974-1995 Z440 1974-1995 EN450 1974-1995 EN500 1974-1995 To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. James Robert Ratay, Jr. Top Contributor: Pets 5.0 out of 5 stars I got a bike with no start, no spark, seemingly I had nothing working. With this manual and a give 'em heck attitude, my bike is running. This may not sound like a big feet, but when you don't know anything about anything when it comes to motorcycles, but the manual gets your from nothing to running, I think that sounds like a manual worth having. I am still using this manual for every little thing. The way it is detailed and broken down is great. You already know where you need to look for everything and the wiring diagrams in the back are great. Highly recommended.Has EVERYTHING you need to know about your Kawasaki.http://davidfoleyinc.com/userfiles/euro-pro-deluxe-denim-machine-manual.xml
- Tags:
- culture wars in america a documentary and reference guide, culture wars in america a documentary and reference guide pdf, culture wars in america a documentary and reference guide book, culture wars in america a documentary and reference guide free, culture wars in america a documentary and reference guide answer.
Lightly lubricate the 3rd gear selector fork and slide it onto the change drum so that the locking pin hole faces the crankshaft. Ensure that the change drum stopper plate drive pin is in place and position the stopper plate on the end of the change drum. The stopper plate must be fitted with the small projection (which operates the neutral warning switch) facing out, away from the change drum body. The stopper plate is retained by a circlip on the end of the change drum. The change drum can now be moved across and pushed into the needle bearing in the transmission wall. Fit the 3rd gear selector fork locking pin through the fork and into the middle channel in the change drum. Fit a new split pin through the selector fork and pin, and bend back the legs of the pin. Slide the selector fork rod part way into the transmission and fit the two remaining selector forks. Viewed from the rear of the engine, fit the fork with the cutaway boss to the timing side, with the cutaway facing the timing side transmission wall. Fit the second fork so that the drive pin is offset towards the drive side wall. Make certain that the fork pins engage correctly with the channels in the change drum. Under normal circumstances it is unlikely that these settings will require modification, even though there is provision made. If a change appears necessary, it can often be attributed to a developing engine fault. It should be added however that these are only guide lines. There is no clearly defined demarcation line due to a certain amount of overlap which occurs between the carburetor components involved. Always err slightly on the side of a rich mixture, since a weak mixture will cause the engine to overheat. Reference to Chapter 3 will show how the condition of the spark plugs can be interpreted with some experience as a reliable guide to carburetor mixture strength. Flat spots in the carburetion can usually be traced to a defective timing advancer.http://www.firewaterdamagedfw.com/test/fckeditor/uploadfiles/euro-pro-dressmaker-998b-sewing-center-manual.xml If the advancer action is suspect, it can be detected by checking the ignition timing with a stroboscope. Do not run the machine with the exhaust baffles removed, or with a quite different type of silencer fitted. The standard production silencers have been designed to give the best possible performance, while subduing the exhaust note to an acceptable level. Although a modified exhaust system or one without baffles, may give the illusion of greater speed as a result of the changed exhaust note, the chances are that performance will have suffered accordingly. It provides detailed service information, step-by-step repair instruction and maintenance specifications for 1974 1975 1976 and 1977 Kawasaki KZ400 motorcycles. In doing so, no representation of affiliation, association or the like is intended, unless otherwise stated. Moreover, we are in fact owners of intellectual property, property that is a valuable asset to our business. Advanced G'day ( Sign in to bid or buy) eBay Deals Coles on eBay Help Sell Watch List Expand Watch list Loading. Something went wrong. Harley-Davidson Sportster Motorc. Kawasaki Motorcycle Repair Manua. Kawasaki Motorcycle Manuals and. Kawasaki Motorcycle Manuals and. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by DigiCert. Advanced G'day ( Sign in to bid or buy) eBay Deals Coles on eBay Help Sell Watch List Expand Watch list Loading. Something went wrong. Honda XR75 Honda CB750 Parts Motorcycle Complete Engines Honda Z50 Parts Complete Engines Motorcycle Part. Other Motorcycle Repair Manuals. Kawasaki Motorcycle Manuals and. Kawasaki Motorcycle Manuals and. Royal Enfield Complete Engines M. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by DigiCert. Manual covers all the topics like: Engine Service, General Information, Transmission, Chassis, Lighting, Steering, Seats System, Clutch, Suspension, Locks, Brakes, Lubrication, Wiring, Electrical, Frame Fuel System, Battery, etc. The company manufactures motorcycles from various plants - including ones in Indonesia, USA and Japan - and even has its own engines division based in Michigan. Kawasaki is owned by Kawasaki Heavy Industries, and has produced well-known motorcycle models like the EX650C, The Vulcan 1500, and the Ninja 750R. It was then revamped in 1998, and again in 2003, and came complete with a fuel injected engine, six-speed gearbox, and four-piston brakes. If you own a Kawasaki bike and wish to perform anything from routine maintenance to full-body repair work, then we have a large selection of Kawasaki repair manuals available. I wounder if any one have a service manual on pdf. And i also wounder if the correct name on this model is Z400 or is it Kz400. And if someone know a good place to order parts Hopefully someone will correct me if i'm wrong but it was the best place for all things related to the kz400. I don't think their is any difference at all and it is just a code for where it was sold.Hopefully someone will correct me if i'm wrong but it was the best place for all things related to the kz400. I don't think their is any difference at all and it is just a code for where it was sold.The Kz400 twin is a very different machine, obviously. The Kz400 twins can be broken down into the earlier motor and later motor. They can be differentiated by the way the head looks. The early type had eccentric valve adjusters under a cover on the sides of the head. The later type had four caps on the front and back of the motor that uncovered set-screw type valve adjusters. The bike in the photo of the original post has the newer style head, so a manual from a later 400 or even 440 might be of some help, if you can find it. If any one comes by a service manual for my bike please inform me I think the kz400 website is shut down I viewed that site last week it was awesome, but now i cant enter. I rely hope it will come back up, I think the service manual was able to get there. Does any one have his email. Thanks again Link will be added later. If anyone have the missing p082-099.pdf please let me know so i can complete the Z400 manual. Reason: added service manual DL link Thanks Scirocco. Hopefully someone will correct me if i'm wrong but it was the best place for all things related to the kz400. I don't think their is any difference at all and it is just a code for where it was sold.The Kz400 twin is a very different machine, obviously. The Kz400 twins can be broken down into the earlier motor and later motor. They can be differentiated by the way the head looks. The early type had eccentric valve adjusters under a cover on the sides of the head. The later type had four caps on the front and back of the motor that uncovered set-screw type valve adjusters. The bike in the photo of the original post has the newer style head, so a manual from a later 400 or even 440 might be of some help, if you can find it. Glad to see that someone is keeping the info alive. Please download the PDF to view it: Download. Get a repair manual. These manuals also serve as exceptional Kawasaki motorcycle service manuals. Having the right repair manual in your toolbox is like having a Kawasaki mechanic by your side guiding you. This attention to detail makes them easy to understand and use. Started February 15, 2010. Completed December 28, 2010. Double Oak, TX. If you continue browsing the site, you agree to the use of cookies on this website. See our User Agreement and Privacy Policy.If you continue browsing the site, you agree to the use of cookies on this website. See our Privacy Policy and User Agreement for details.You can change your ad preferences anytime. Now customize the name of a clipboard to store your clips. This Service Manual contains comprehensive instructions an.Thank you, for helping us keep this platform clean. The editors will have a look at it as soon as possible. Read about the changes to our normal operations. We're doing our best to serve you with as limited disruption as possible. Australia From basic maintenance to troubleshooting to complete overhaul, Clymer manuals provide the information you need. The most important tool in your tool box may be your Clymer manual, get one today.Every Clymer manual contains hundreds of original photographs and illustrations developed from a complete disassembly and assembly of a motorcycle. This, in addition to extensive research, allows Clymer to achieve an unmatched level of detail, accuracy and clarity.The step-by-step instructions and two-column text with large print are user-friendly. Bold figure numbers make it easy to quickly match instructions with illustrations and photos. Thumb-tabbed chapters, numbered table of contents and an extensive index make it possible to locate the desired section quickly. Specific Information: Exclusions: Dimensions: Pages: Cover: Published: Tuesday, March 27, 2018 Part Number: CM3543 ISBN: 9781599691862 Author: Description 1: VN800A (95-05), VN800B (96-05) Description 2: Engines: 800cc, twin cylinder Description 3: Description 4: From basic maintenance to troubleshooting to complete overhaul, Clymer manuals provide the information you.From basic maintenance to troubleshooting to complete overhaul, Clymer manuals provide the information you.This publication covers the Z1, Z1A, Z1B, Z900 and KZ900. Packed with good advice on choosing the right.Kawasaki models covered by this repair manual. Vulcan VN1500. 1470cc. 1987 through 1999 Vulcan VN1500 Classic. 1470cc. 1996 through 2004 Vulcan VN1500.Clymer motorcycle repair manuals are written specifically for the do-it-yourself enthusiast. From basic maintenance to troubleshooting.Every Manual is based on a complete stripdown of the bike. Our authors and technicians work out the best methods. Access the information and tools you need to get the most out of your vehicle. Access the information and tools you need to get the most out of your vehicle. They undergo comprehensive evaluation to ensure the hightest quality and durability standards to help maximize the life of your vehicle, and give you peace of mind that your Kawasaki is always operiating at peak performance. Whether you work on your vehicle or bring it to an authorized dealer for service, we recommend that you use Kawasaki Genuine Parts. No two are alike. They look like this: KAW46436J697. The exact location for these numbers in your particular model is illustrated in your owner's manual near the front of the book. They also appear on your registration documents. Invalid fields exist in below form. Our library is the biggest of these that have literally hundreds of thousands of different products represented. I get my most wanted eBook Many thanks If there is a survey it only takes 5 minutes, try any survey which works for you. Owner: Michael Lane, Kansas City, Kansas. This model was an answer to problems in the global economy. The dollar was devalued in 1971, with President Nixon taking us off the gold standard, meaning we had less money to spend on foreign products. Also, Congress was upping the import tariffs on lots of things, trying to figure out how to pay for the war in Vietnam. In response, Kawasaki decided to build a factory in Lincoln, Nebraska. This was not a real manufacturing facility, but more of an assembly plant, as the import duties on bits and pieces of a motorcycle were a lot less than bringing in a whole one. In June of 1974 the first KZ400 rolled off the assembly line in Akashi, Japan, and a number of them arrived in the United States. But that was just the beginning, as the factory was turning out a lot more parts than those assembly line workers could use. Crates of them were going to Nebraska. In January of 1975 a KZ400 rolled off the Lincoln line with “Made in the USA” on the ID plate. Could there be a better time for a 50-mpg econo-bike to hit the market? Front fork was by Kawasaki, very much like a Ceriani, and on the inexpensive, non-adjustable side. Five inches of travel was good, with a 27-degree rake and trail of approximately four inches offering a very middle-of-the-road stance. The swingarm ran out 20 inches, bouncing along on a cheap pair of Kawasaki shock absorbers having preload adjustability and three inches of travel. Too soft, reviewers said. As a polite reviewer might say, adequate. But this was not intended for sporting riding like the Z-1, and the brakes worked fine for commuter use. Distance between the axles was 53.3 inches. Of minor note was the chain-driven counter-rotating balancer system down in the crankcase, called “harmonic” by one reviewer. It did not smooth out all vibrations, but for anyone happy to ride at two-thirds of redline (9,000 rpm) it was entirely adequate. Commuters, the intended buyers, were not known as rip-snorting riders. Respectable; good for an honest 90 mph. In 1977, with the fuel crisis in the headlines, the carb size was reduced to 32mm to enhance mileage figures a little. And the compression was raised to 9.4:1, which served to create roughly the same power output. Ignition was by battery and single two-feed coil. Starting was by button, except a kickstarter was there as a backup, as many Americans did not yet fully trust electrically powered gizmos. The long, flat saddle was great for one person, a bit crowded for two. Looks were OK, with shiny chrome fenders and nice paint on the 3.2-gallon gas tank and side panels. Curb weight was a shade more than 400 pounds. The only complaint seemed to be about occasional oil weepage coming from around the head. And for one year, ’77, there was the A model, with small handlebar fairing, saddlebags and luggage rack. The low-price version stayed with five speeds and had a two-into-one exhaust. And there was the stepped-saddle LTD “custom” model, with cast wheels. Kawasaki ran a lot of entertaining ads focused on the commuter, one saying, “More fun than any car I ever drove.” This ’76 model, in the same family since new, is quite stock except for the MAC mufflers. And I will definitely buy one tomorrow! Simple, quick, efficient and reliable are qualities that sell and the styling is still solid today. Got me all over the southeastern US of A. In the 2 years I owned it I put 13,000 miles on it. Sold it before I deployed. It had the two into one exhaust. Had it for two years. It gave me no problems, however had trouble getting past 70MPH, and was a bit wheezy cruising at highway speed. Had to use the gearshift quite a bit to get the most out of it. Traded it on a 1978 GS550, which was quite an improvement. A very good bike though, very simple and worked well as intended. I should have put a windshield on it, might have been easier to ride at speed. Saw it later with nearly 90k on the clock.In 78 dealers were instructed to swap out the head cylinder rods along with all the seals to stop oil from gushing out of the top end. The issue was largely addressed when the 440 came out, but the 400 had developed a reputation by then. Aside from the oil leak, it’s a good bike but in reality it didn’t match up to the cb350 in any way except possibly in the looks category. There are some fun vintage commercials featuring so three models ok YouTube. All original specification with 9000 miles on the clock.Personally, this is one of the best bikes of the era and with a few factory parts swaps it can outrun 500s of it’s time. But i used a rust remover and cleaner then an epoxy sealer inthe tank and replaced the CV carbs with the non CV tipe and single split cable. I look forward to many miles of enjoyment here in Wa State. I bought a kit (Felpro head gasket plus the Kawasaki oil-rings) to solve the cylinder head oil leak issue before having an oil leak issue. The longest trip I took on it was from New Brunswick, Canada to Chattanooga, Tennessee. I put about 10,000 miles on it then sold it for what I paid for it. It was a very good bike for the money. It’s a reliable and everyday iron horse. It does have oil leak, speed not reaching 70 mph issues. Over all, it’s a reliable bike, alway start on the first ouch on the button, a honey-do bike, and probably a good collections. As has already been said, the machine came out as fuel prices were rising and the makers did claim the engine was happy with low lead fuels so I bought one, primarily to get to work but also for medium length trips on the weekend. Did not own it very long as I went on to buy one of the last 750 mach 4 two strokes which was almost a contradiction in comparison to the kz! Rode all of Ga. And twice RT from Ft. Benning to upstate NY. Never had a problem with anything. I’d like to find one now. Over bored to 438, maikuni vm32s and a digital ingition. Love her to bits Thanks for the memories! We put a fairing, saddlebags and big pack on the luggage rack. At 2 up it was a little slow on Wyomings mtn passed but we had fun on it. I never had any problems of any kind with it and oh the memories of cross-country riding with it. When I got home and my Dad saw the bike he said my accomplishment reminded him of Charles Lindburg’s crossing of the Atlantic. That was my second motorcycle, first street legal. 17 bikes, over 150k miles on two wheels and nearly 50 years of riding, I still use the KZ 400 as one of the benchmark bikes when I’m thinking about which bike I’ll get next. Thanks for the review and fuelling some great memories. Simpke for oil change and bulletproof. Only issues I had more than once was a dead battery. If you forgot to turn of the toggle switch on the back of the head light then you had a no go nike upon your return to ride. I did this 7 or 8 times over the years. Longest trip was Cinicnnati to Austin, TX. It really was a great do it all bike and would wheelie easily. However, as a middleweight commuter and occasional tourer it aquitted itself well, was understressed and reliable. The oil leaks issue was sorted by the 1979 B2 model. Bought mine new in 1980, used it daily getting to work, then weekend rides here in Peak District National Park. Electrics and bearings are in incredibly good condition but the suspension is really deserving an upgrade.Just picking a Z400B1 up next week which is a running project.Did you get any spanner time on it over winter. My B2 is still in pieces, the cold temps held up the engine painting and front fork issues proved a “head scratcher” to solve. BUT that’s mostly history now and the rolling chassis is about to take shape again. Good luck with your return. I sold it and put the money towards a z1 that I still have today. Wish I still had that 400 too. It still had the original tires with air in them when we got it. Put in electronic ignition and ma uni carbs. We are doing the front breaks at this time and should have it on the road next spring. I had one serious trouble. The balance shaft is driven by a chain which only goes less than half way round a sprocket on the crank shaft. T The teeth on the sprocket wore out after about 30,000 miles, I think. The chain then jumped putting the balance completely out. The sprocket was part of the crank shaft and to repair required a whole new CS. Fortunately I was able to get a second hand one from a bike being broken at a low mileage. Otherwise the cost of new one was so high I would have scrapped the bike. The only other snag about the bike was a high frequency vibration which numbed my right hand on long journeys. The left was OK so I assumed the little extra grip needed to keep the throttle open made the difference. It took maybe an hour of continuous riding at a steady speed for this to happen. Shes a wonderful bike. Only thing I changed was the handle bars, and tuned it. Solid 30-40 miles per gallon depending on my romping. 9k original miles too:). Plan to keep her forever haha. I bought it in 1978 and drove it through high school. It made me a badass and was the key to picking up a lot of girls. (Lol I used to Armor all the back half of the seat so that the riders (girls) would have to hold on tighter. ??) I had the oil leak problem so while fixing it, I shaved the top of the cylinders down to increase the compression. Being a Canadian version might have made it faster than a US version but I never had a problem hitting 100mph. I used to race against RD350’s but they were so much lighter and maneuverable that I couldn’t keep up, especially in the twisties. Now I drive a Kawasaki Vulcan S 650 but would love to find an old KZ 400 to restore. The Vulcan S is a great bike aside for the lack of rear suspension, but I’ve been riding it for 5 years now problem free and fun as hell to drive. There may be delays in transit due to high volume with the shipping carriers. Be safe. The Lincoln plant (built in 1974) made Kawasaki the first foreign motorcycle manufacturer to operate a plant in the United States. The KZ400 outsold Honda in the 400 cc twins market through the 1970s. Early models were prone to oil leaks and unstable idling. Both the carburetors and the design of the oil passages were redesigned beginning in 1977. Some models were offered as bare-bones transportation, with no electric start and front drum brakes. Most, however, had a single disc in the front and drum in the rear as well as electric and kick starters. Deluxe models also had a fairing and saddle bags. Things like engine gasket sets, carburetor kits, fork seals, levers, cables, brake pads and more to help you resurrect and maintain your Kawasaki KZ400. We also believe that any machine can be turned into a Cafe Racer, Street Tracker, Brat, or Chopper and we offer a wide selection of parts to retrofit almost any beast in those traditional styles. Our team rides and wrenches so feel free to reach out if you have questions about your Kawasaki KZ400. b) Para efectuar el drenaje del aceite seguir este orden: 1) Desagotar totalmente el deposito de aceite. 2) Quitar el tapon de drenaje y filtro de la bomba. 3) Quitar el tapon de drenaje del motor de la transmision. Una vez seguidos estos pasos, efectuar lo siguiente: 1) Colocar todos los tapones y el nuevo filtro. Ajustarlos. Unicamente dejar flojo el tapon de drenaje del motor de la transmision. 2) Una vez hecho este proceso, colocar el nuevo aceite hasta que el mismo salga por el drenaje. Luego ajustar el tapon, seguir colocando el aceite hasta llegar al niver segun visor situado en el deposito de aceite. 3) Arrancar el motor diesel durante unos minutos, parar y esperar. Verificar el nivel de aceite y agregar si fuere necesario. OBSERVACION: - En el caso de detectarse burbujas en el circuito, encender el motor diesel y con la palanca de traslacion hacer avanzar y retroceder durante unos minutos. Controlar el nivel de aceite. 10 HORAS CAMBIO DE FILTRO CAMBIO DE ACEITE 1 a 100 SI SI 400 SI NO 800 SI SI 1.200 SI NO 1.600 SI SI 2.000 SI NO 2.400 SI SI 2.800 SI NO CONTINUAR CADA CADA REGULARMENTE 400 hs. 800 hs. En caso de usar el aceite por mas de 1 ano, cambiarlo sin excepcion. MANTENIMIENTO PARA DESPUES DE LA CAMPANA SORGO: La cosechadora debe limpiarse integramente, quitando el polvo, los granos y la suciedad adherida, evitando efectuar esta operacion con agua a fin de un mejor preservamiento de los mecanismos. La atenta revision de su cosechadora le permitira detectar a tiempo una pieza fisurada o rota, un bulon, remache o resorte faltante que, de ser ignorados pueden ocasionar costosos perjuicios. Es un procedimiento aconsejable el aplicar una mano de pintura donde se requiera. En el periodo de inactividad levante la cosechadora para evitar deformacion de los neumaticos debido al peso de la misma. Es conveniente durante ese periodo la inactividad de su cosechada, hacer marchar quincenalmente el motor, hasta hacerlo llegar a su temperatura normal de funcionamiento, de esta forma conseguira mantener lubricados todos sus organos o bien ajustarse a las recomendaciones del manual de su motor. Quitese todas las cadenas a rodillos, lavese y guardese en aceite. Aflojese todas las correas de mando. Llevando a cabo la serie de recomendaciones generales, Usted conseguira la buena conservacion de la cosechadora. Cilindro: Barras. En granos secos 670 r.p.m. En granos humedos 830 r.p.m. Concavo: Utilizar el de menor luz entre alambres. Luz cilindro-concavo: 12 mm adelante y 8 mm atras. Zaranda de 2? limpieza: 9 mm de diametro (puede llegar a utilizarse 6 mm). Ventilador: Media velocidad. A continuacion se detallan los ajustes primarios que se efectuan en la cosechadora, a partir de los cuales se logra la regulacion definitiva de acuerdo a los distintos rendimientos, humedad y tamano del grano. SOJA: Cilindro: Barra. 530 r.p.m. con humedad inferior a 17. 670 r.p.m. con humedad superior a 17. Concavo: El de mayor separacion entre alambres. Luz cilindro-concavo: 20 mm en parte delantera, 5 mm menos atras. Zaranda de 2? limpieza: 9 o 10 mm de diametro. Ventilador: Maxima velocidad. TRIGO-CEBADA: Cilindro: Barras. Trigo duro: 1.300 r.p.m. Trigo blando: 1.045 r.p.m. Concavo: Utilizar el de menor luz entre alambres. Zaranda de 2? limpieza: 6 mm de diametro en triog duro. 7 mm de diametro en trigo blando. Ventilador: Minima velocidad. AVENA: Cilindro: Barras. 830 o 1.045 r.p.m. Concavo: Utilizar el de menor luz entre alambres. Zaranda de 2? limpieza: de 9 a 12 mm segun tamano del grano. Ventilador: Entre minima y media velocidad. LINO: Cilindro: Barras. 1.045 a 1.300 r.p.m. de acuerdo a la humedad del grano. Concavo: Utilizar el de menor luz entre alambres. Luz cilindro-concavo: 8 a 10 mm adelante y 5 a 6 mm atras. Zaranda de 2? limpieza: 6 mm de diametro. MAIZ: Cilindro: Barras. Las r.p.m. varian de acuerdo a la humedad y tamano del grano. Luz cilindro-concavo: En la parte delantera de 25 a 30 mm segun el tamano de la espiga. Zaranda de 2? limpieza: Utilizar 12 mm (con maiz de excesiva humedad, 14 mm de diametro). GIRASOL: Cilindro: Barras. 530 r.p.m. Concavo: Blindado. Luz cilindro-concavo: 25 a 30 mm en parte delantera. Zaranda de 2? limpieza: 14 mm de diametro. ALFALFA: Cilindro: Barras. 1.045 r.p.m. Concavo: Utilizar el de menor luz entre alambres. Luz cilindro-concavo: 8 a 10 mm adelante, 5 a 7 mm atras. Zaranda de 2? limpieza: 3 mm de diametro. Ventilador: Minima velocidad (cerrar entradas). 11 SIMBOLOS 1 2 3 DETALLE DE ENGRASE LADO DERECHO LUBRICANTES GRASA ACEITE HIDRAULICO: ISO AW 68 ACEITE GL5 75W90 SINTETICO APLICACION A BOMBA APLICACION A MANO LUBRICAR CADA 8 HS LUBRICAR CADA 24 HS LUBRICAR CADA 300 HS 1 1 1 2 CAJA RODAM. EJE INTERM. DESCARGA MOTOR DEPOSITO ACEITE HIDRAULICO VER MANUAL MOTOR 1 CAJA RODAM.Estos bulones cumplen la funcion de comprimir el resorte y de abrir los platos del variador. 2. Aflojar el bulon del tensor de las correas de 4 v. 3. Abrir los platos de la polea superior del variador accionando el motor electrico. Esta operacion y la anterior permitiran aflojar totalmente la correa. 4. Quitar los puntales de las poleas del variador tratando de no perder sus posiciones, para facilitar la alineacion de las poleas. 5. Quitar la tapa de inspeccion de la noria de retorno. 6. En la polea superior del variador quitar la corona aflojando los dos bulones que la sostienen y esto facilitara la tarea de reposicion de las correas. 7. Sustituir la correa. 8. Una vez que coloco la nueva correa hacer la parte de montaje siguiendo los pasos descriptos con anterioridad, pero en sentido inverso. 9. Mediante los dos puntales alinear correctamente las poleas del variador, para lograr que trabaje en forma correcta. SUSTITUCION DE CORREAS MANDO A CILINDRO: 1. 2. 3. 4.