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computed tomography textbookFor a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. It can be stressful and expensive to deal with gear selector failure, but keeping up vehicle maintenance can help reduce the chances of your Mercedes experiencing gear selector issues. Below are some symptoms to watch out for and some ways to help keep your car in good health. One of the first symptoms you might notice is a grinding or clicking noise when switching gears. In automatic vehicles, your car may have trouble shifting gears, and you might notice some jerking as it struggles as you accelerate or decelerate. Additionally, there may be issues with going from drive to reverse. For a more definitive diagnosis, get your car to a garage as soon as possible to prevent further damage. It is important to take your Mercedes to get regular tune-ups and inspections. This can help to prevent gear selector failure. It keeps hydraulic fluid flowing properly which allows you to change gears. You should have a specialist inspect the valve body to see if that is where the gear selector issues are coming from. If the value body is damaged, it will need to be replaced. The shifter module is another part that commonly has manufacturing issues that can cause some similar issues. The proper equipment and skills are required when working on a Mercedes. Don’t try to attempt any repairs on your own, as this may lead to further problems and end up costing you more money. Automatics have one cable while manuals have two. The cable engages the transmission in the proper gears which are indicated by the driver. Manual transmissions have two cables because the shifter can be moved both vertically and horizontally. However, if the cable breaks the transmission won’t be able to shift gears at all.http://pujcovna-kostymy.com/FCKarchiv/espresor-manual.xml

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Manual transmissions are more likely to have gear selector cable problems because they are used more often than automatics. However, only automatic vehicles have an indicator. The shift indicator is attached to a shift indicator cable. The indicator cable moves the shift indicators position to reflect which gear you are in. If the needle breaks, the shift indicator won’t be able to display the proper gear your transmission is in. If you gear selector indicator is not working properly, your transmission should be able to still function normally, but it will be harder for you to operate your vehicle. If your shift indicator is digital and stops working, you may need wiring repair or a transmission sensor replacement. It’s important to have an understanding of the causes and symptoms of these issues so that you can have them repaired as soon as possible. Sorry for the delay, have received your disc and tools many Thanks. Ps Website is a fantastic help. I have recently purchased a Mercedes A160 W168 with a known gearbox issue which I was hoping was not too serious. It was jumping out of gear randomly and in any gear. Had resigned myself to drop the engine and investigate the gearbox, This I did and may I add it is not a simple job. Anyway once engine was out ( I had read your article on replacing drop links) and read about the chap who’s drive shaft So I started to look at this and began to think this was a very similar problem but part of the shaft did not break off, The more I looked at my problem ( the bits off history I got with the car included a bill for a suspension strut replacement on the passenger side 4 months previous. Also when I pulled on the drive shaft it popped out too easily, and there was a oily deposit all around the area off the drive shaft location into gearbox. I then took the gamble that this was the problem and put the engine back into the car making sure the drive shaft was fully located into the gear box.http://training-access.com/upload/espresso-coffee-machine-manual.xmlAnd Guess what the problem is sorted it has not slipped out of gear since. Have enclosed some photos to go with this. Again Thanks for the website. And another case resulting in the same problem being diagnosed. Note I have included this defect which occured on a w169 on this page because the defect could also apply to a W168 A class Hi Lofty, On Friday I had a total auto gearbox failure. Long story short and because I have the MB Mobilo service they recovered the car and took it to the nearest MB dealer. I bought it new and my car has only done 43000 and I've already had a gearbox valve body failure at 27000 which cost ?1200 to replace, so I hate to think what they will want if it needs a new gearbox!. I've looked at a couple of outfits on the internet who do exchange or rebuilt boxes with fitting, etc for about ?2500 with a 24 month warranty and I'm wondering if you can offer an opinion or any suggestions if Mercedes says I need a new gearbox? Thanks. Ed I immediately replied to Ed and advised him to contact the MB garage to whom his car had been taken as this was almost certainly another case of drive shaft problems. The end product was that my Diagnoses was right, the shaft had partially withdrawn and as a result the end of the shaft was damaged to the degree that it would no longer engage of the crown wheel of the differential, resulting in no drive to either wheel. Even though the diagnoses of the fault was made for MB from the other side of the World they still charged a considerable amount of money for this repair and claimed they had not encountered this fault before.( of course they would not admit to knowing of a problem) My advise is if you suffer a total loss of drive from your gearbox check your drive shafts before even contacting a garage or get the breakdown service to check.This method may not work with automatics, but with the wheels removed it is easy to see when the drive shafts are not housed correctly.http://www.statcardsports.com/node/9832As with the failure above this happened when turning the steering wheel fully left or right when the drive shaft parts are under extreme stress.Either way it is no consultation to the owners when faced with large bills for such unnecessary defects Thank you ED for the Informatiuon and photos. For further information go to:- page 28 in the w169 section of this site. When seeking spares for the gear box you will be asked for the chassis number of your car, there are a number of different numbered gear boxes fitted to the 'A' Class. This photo shows the gearbox removed and split from the engine, the hydraulic thrust bearing is still fitted. The removal of this complete unit is of course necessary when the clutch assembly needs replacing, this is only possible with the engine lowered from beneath the car which for most owners makes it a commercial garage job. If on ramps the whole car will need to be leveled, remove the upper plug, its normal for the oil to be level with the threads at the bottom of the plug location hole when the correct amount is installed, a few drops may seep away from the gearbox as the plug is removed. HOWEVER I did not level my car and so measured the oil removed and replaced with a litre measuring jug Do not try and overfill.From what I can see all the above manual boxes fitted to the 'A' Class hold 1.8.litres. However it would be prudent to just confirm with MB when purchasing the gear oil, what the capacity of gear oil is in your particular gearbox is. I have had my car now for just over three years and am a member of the www.baby-benz.com owners club to date I have not heard of problems with the manual gear box, with the exception of the linkage. However automatics are a different story. The ones that have given trouble appear to be around the 65000-75000 miles mark. This is a known problem to Mercedes-Benz which they appear to have chosen to do little or nothing about, albeit they have offered some financial assistance to some owners who have the work done within their company.My own car has had a very slight whine in 3rd gear for some time and so I decided to check the gearbox oil level This is not an easy task as you need to safely get under the car, and the car needs to be level, the only other way available to the DIYer is with the vehicle on ramps, drain and measure the gearbox fluid. As this was the only option open to me without garage costs I decided to change the fluid. The first problem was locating a 14mm 'Allen' key to remove the plugs, filler and drain. Because of the limited space available I made up an adaptor from a 14mm nut with a deep head section and locked two 14mm nuts on the bolt shank so that I could then use a ring spanner. Bear in mind that these steel plugs are situated in an aluminium gearbox case which is not the most resilient metal in the World, take care not to damage of crack the casing. Having removed the plugs I drained and measured the fluid. I removed 1.41 litres when in fact the box should have contained 1.8 litres the drained fluid was also much darker in colour than the new fluid, so the time spend changing it was well worth while. I then de-canted.8 of a litre to the now empty container and put that into the gearbox using the same method. I am now confident that my gearbox not only has the correct quantity of fluid and that it has also been renewed. I used PTFE (polytetrafloraethylene)tape rather than 'Loc-Tite' if they do ever have to come out again hopefully they will not be so tight. Gear box selector linkage Having purchased the link which will cost you just under ?3.00 it is easily fitted, However Tony, one of my readers has recently informed me that he had to use some force to get the link to clip over the small balls on which it engages, something like 'mole' grips will make the job easy but do not over do it or you will damage the link. When properly engaged you will hear a click as the cup on the link snaps over the ball either end. It almost sounds as though MB have altered the design. Lets just hope so. Nylon joints and fittings are less likely to need lubrication but even they can bind against one another making their movement stiff and less fluid. I use Silicone spray on plastic, nylon fittings and a small amount of molly slip grease on metal moving parts, only you can decide whether you do the same, but it certainly does no harm. These are e-mails received from fellow owners who have saved a fortune by reading the information on this site along with the www.baby-benz.com in particular relating to the link below. These are genuine e-mails the contents are in some cases alarming when you consider you are paying ?85-?100.00 per hour for the expertise of Mercedes-Benz staff He could see no problem but said he would ring the nearest Mercedes dealer for advice and let me know. Mercedes dealer said they had no experience of this problem and suggested stripping the gearbox for further investigations - I thought expensive. I posted a question about fitting heating elements in the front seats on the Baby-Benz web site a few weeks ago with little response but in desperation posted a plea for help about the gears and thankfully you answered. You were absolutely spot on. I printed the picture and the part number details and two days later I had a bill for ?20 and a perfectly working gearbox again. Thank you once again Our first option was to top up oil in gear box (cheapest option) but after looking on the baby-benz website for help in locating the filler point I came across your website.the page on the gearbox and the item on the SELECTOR LINKAGE!!!You have possibly saved me the cost of a new clutch. It was the 3 pound linkage on the 3rd and 5th gear. I was thinking I would have to shell out between 6-800 pounds for a clutch but something in the back of my mind told me the clutch was ok. I just thought I would search the forums and came across your site. Thanks Very Much. Joe Cox unquote. Quote Having problem engaging 3rd and 5th gear on my A160 of 1998 I turned to your homepage as usual. I bought the car as my families extra and I do not like paying to much in repairs. Thanks to you I have been able to change spark plugs and other service actions. So looking in the parts on gear I found the section on gear box selector linkage. I did run out to the car and looked on the top of the gear box, and yes (may be no) the plastic linkage was missing. I cancelled my time at the Mercedes Garage and ordered the spare part for a little more than 4 Euro. Next I went to collect it and then it was an easy task to fix the problem. The only things to add is that I wasn't totally out of fifth and third gear, sometimes they worked, I guess due to the the part that were swinging freely on the gearbox. I also agree that it is necessary to be careful applying the part, I used a tool. Well, thank you very much for an excellent page Yours Anders Jorle. Stockholm,, Sweden Unquote and yet another e-mail,this time from Australia. I couldn't find a link on the homepage to email you so I'm hoping this gets through to you OK. Many thanks for the A160 pages mate. It has so much info that just isn't available anywhere else. It's a huge service you're doing for other baby benz owners, and it's very appreciated. My wife's A160 2001 manual is having a problem with gear selection, but it doesn't seem to be like the issues detailed on your page. There's no error code or warning light involved. What happens is that the car will be locked out of all gears except neutral and second pretty much every time the car turns left, and will unlock back to full range of gears access by turning right. There's an audible clunk both ways. He recommended scrapping the car, which I would hate to do because it is so loved. It has done 199,000 kilometers, and I'd love to squeeze out another few years of use for my wife. Have you come across this in your travels. Best of British mate. Bruce After many e-mails back and forth this was the outcome Hi Lofty, I'm the most popular man in Australia, and you're the most popular man in the UK mate. I thought I understood the gear selector linkage issue but until I had a better look at the photos on the site I really didn't get it. So, first I tried the Gear Selector Reset procedure, which confirmed that I could hear the ACS engaging. Next I followed down the page and thought I'd better not skip over anything, and followed the link to the Gear Selector Linkage info, and had an ah-ha.I went to the car with a torch and found the selector linkage hanging on one end. If anyone ever has exactly this symptom, it's this, and if anyone is stuck somewhere away from home, chart a course back with lots of right turns in it. My wife thinks I'm Gandalf. My son has alrady borrowed her car, do do 'user testing' in his words. You've saved me losing a brilliant car to the wreckers. I'll be buying a couple of spare linkages, one for the car straight away and one for run. A firm handshake and all the best mate, Bruce in South Australia Bruce donated ?10 to the site and as a result received information that saved his car and his money and complimentary copy of my e-DVD, so he now has comprehensive information on his W168 'A' class with ACS clutch for the long time term, a wise move because when I 'pop off' and I'm now 78 the site will drop off the www.Before you commit, check to ensure that the link marked Chris has also brought to my attention that this self same link is fitted to A class fitted with the ACS transmission, the only difference was that he also lost the use of 4th gear as well, so do not get caught out investigate the location of this vulnerable link and carry a spare it could save you a lot of time and a lot of money in getting your car transported to a garage, who if are as knowledgeable as Mercedes Workshops will want to remove and replace your transmission, Frightening. Gear selector Linkage. Unlike most gear boxes the gear lever does not go into the top of the gearbox but into a gear selector mechanism, this in turn operates cables which are attached to the top of the gearbox selector, this can be seen when lifting the bonnet, where the change of gears is finally made. However you do not need to be a mechanic to see that they play a part in the adjusting of the gear lever selection cables) If ordering parts for your car always use the Vin number this will ensure you get the correct parts for you model and car. To access the orange reset buttons you will need to remove the leather gear lever surround, this is best done using plastic wedges, plastic cycle tyre levers are ideal, ease the moulding up evenly ensuring the leather is not cut or damaged. To replace ensure the leather is positioned on the plastic frame, position carefully and push down until it is heard to clip into place. Carefully ease the leather sleeve up towards the lever knob until you can access the locking collar. Removing the gear lever knob Some months ago I attempted to follow guidance I have but gave up as I couldn't get the component indicated in the instruction to release the knob from the lever. I then began to question whetherAlso Tony's car was pre-face lift. However today I have had another go this time because the rubber gasket that fits around the gear lever has split on my car and I wanted to replace it with an alternative dust excluder, attempts to purchase the correct replacement part have already failed so it was a case of improvising. However undoing the locking collar was difficult because it was so tight, I managed eventually by wearing a rubber glove which gave me more grip.I then fitted a plastic washer which holds the rubber firmly in place. The insert photograph is the part of the rubber gasket that had split and torn. This is to be expected as the rubber is stretched in all directions as the various gears are selected. I also spray lubricated the gear linkage while it was exposed using 3 in 1 light oil. These then travel through the central tunnel to the gear lever Reversing light switch I have indicated it is location with a small arrow. The item that can just be seen is the switch electrical connector. I found that removing the electrical connector was easiest carried out with the car in 4th gear. However having removed the connector see the warning Note below, before going further. It is worth familiarising your self with the connector that is attached to the brake master cylinder reservoir, as this connector is exactly the same, the sides of the clip are pressed, which allows the connector to be removed. Having removed the connector be aware that it must be correctly re-located for the plug to house and the clip to lock However 'dgc' a fellow Baby-benz.com member has, He adapted a long reach 22mm socket which he has to shorten to fit under the cables servicing the gearbox, my advise to anybody doing this is to use the New switch to adjust the socket, the switch is not unlike a plug and if you shorten the socket too much it will not reach the hexagon section of the switch which you obviously need to engage to remove and re-fit the switch.Having replaced the switch he was not able to get 5th gear, this was because as the switch was removed a plate in the gear box selector mechanism moved preventing the gear being selected. He had to strip the selector and manually move the plate back into the position it locates when the switch is fitted in the reverse position. He was fortunate in being able to do the job himself others may be less fortunate, so Please observe this strict rule or leave to job to the professionals where you will at least have come back if the job satisfactory on completion. Always test the light before you drive away from the garage.This directly affects the selection of gears and will need to be corrected before the reverse switch will operate correctly or gears can be obtained as normal. David has as a result come up with an easy answer which does not require the selector to be removed by using a small pen telescopic magnet to pull the selector plate back into the correct position.I'm sure that if you have made to error of removing the switch without selecting reverse gear you will want to thank David for enlightening us all in his method of overcoming what is a very difficult situation and one that Mercedes Workshops will want to make the most of if you take your car to them for repair. David came up with this procedure after having had to remove the selector to cure the fault on his car a difficult and time consuming job, which is best avoided. Aug 2011 I mailed him back and asked if he had also lost the use of some gears, yes he had but at the time of mailing wasn't aware of it, he now even more distressed. I mailed him Explaining that the garage had not used the Mercedes Benz work shop procedure to fit the switch and that there was now ever chance the selector would be damaged. To my astonishment the garage informed him that moving the gear lever to reverse gear when changing the switch was optional and that they had not damaged anything. We exchanged several mails with me suggesting that unless the garage sorted the problem they had now caused, he would be better taking the car to another MB garage and then giving the bill to the MB repairer who did the work and caused the damage. They had even suggested that it might pay him for me to go to Spain to fix his car if I new better than they. Having now sent him the file which clearly states reverse gear must be selected and maintained throughout the repair or the selector will be damaged, they now decided to take another look at his car at no cost to him, and yes they removed and found the selector damaged but repairable in that the lever that blocks you going into reverse gear inadvertently was bent but could be straightened. On returning the selector and having followed the correct procedure the second time around all was well and the light now switched off when other than reverse gear is selected So be warned it's happened before it will happen again, the gear lever MUST be placed in reverse position and remain there throughout the repair. Fail to do that and you like this garage will almost certainly damage the selector. If getting the work done at any Garage you would be well advised to tell them of the procedure required or you well suffer the same after problems. The photo right shows the selector, with switch located, on the plate B it believed that the damage was cussed in the area of C I myself suspect it was simply a case of re-locating the plate which allows 3rd and 5th gears to be obtained and the switch to operate and thus the reversing light to illuminate when reverse is selected. Sergio posted the following information on MB ACS (clutch-less) and manual gear boxes. Intrigued with the simplicity of this procedure, he personally did research and found that the suggested procedure does work and due to its importance I felt it would be valuable to owners if I posted it on his site, As we both have a common aim I know he will not mind me copying it to this page. ACS Note ensure the car is on level standing or chock wheels as necessary. This is the actuator push-rod moving within the ACS module. So, if you let your children play with the gear lever, or even yourself move the gear lever just for fun and without pressing the brake pedal, in the reality, you (or your children or anyone else) are misadjusting all the system. Remember that this fully computerized electro-hydraulic clutch is very delicate and a complex system, not a toy and should be used only for driving. Do not ever play with the gear lever and do not allow to anyone to do that, if the engine is off. For the fully manual system, do the same but, instead of brake pedal, use the clutch pedal. Sergio. John's noisy Gearbox Follow up mail from Chris, Hi Lofty, After much huffing and puffing, we finally removed these big 12mm hex retainers from the output shaft on the w168 manual box We found they were opposite left hand thread. Perhaps you could add this information to johns noisy gearbox section to help other readers. Many thanks, Chris Mercedes-Benz claim that the oil in the gearbox does not need replacing, however in my experience it is worth while changing this oil and ensuring it is to the correct level.It is worth measuring the amount you remove if changing the fluid if only to prove that the oil level is low as it was in my own case. The oil drains easier from the Gear box lower plug removed, if the fluid is warm I.e. following a run. This show the reverse gear and differentional housed in part of the gear box casing. This shows the gear selector removed from the top of the gearbox, it is this unit the houses the reversing light switch. To prevent this unit from being damaged while changing the reversing lamp switch the gearbox MUST be placed into and remain in reveres gear until the new switch is fully fitted. See above if you have already fallen foul of this procedure. This photo shows the main shafts and gears positioned. This shows one of the synchromesh rings fitted into the gearbox which allow drivers to move from one gear to another smoothly. Prior to synchromesh gears being fitted to gear boxes the engine and thus gearbox speed had to be judged by the driver to prevent the gears grinding (Crashing) against on e another as they tried to mesh one to the other. Commercial vehicles were the last to be fitted with synchromesh, and thus the term crash boxes was used by drivers, an alternative driving feature was to double-de-clutch the clutch was depressed, the gear lever was moved to neutral the clutch was again depressed and the next gear selected, providing the engine speed was correct a smooth change of gear could then be made with no noise. These days doubling the clutch is not required many vehicles including commercial, being automatics, all manual gearboxes are now fitted with synchromesh gears. This photo shows the Gearbox partially assembled. Thank you John Interesting photographs, you saved yourself a fortune. Just in passing John also discovered that the injectors on this diesel car had been leaking which caused as much work again, however having the engine out of the car made the job easier and he was able to do both repairs at the same time. The tool made by John for fitting the poly V belt can be seen on page 57.Please Make a Donation. To be honest it makes driving in town a real chore. Maybe Mercedes vans are abused by their drivers who always crash change through the box for the speediest getaway.This may not work for you depending on the exact nature of your gearbox issue, but if you are living with the same set of problems I had then its well worth the small investment before following other pathways (all of which are mostly inordinately expensive!). It took my main dealer a few tries to even establish this fact so it’s not common knowledge.Thicker oil would tend to drag the gears round and make the synchros work harder to mesh a faster spinning gear set. For example a gear oil of 75w -90 is almost the same viscosity as a 10w-40 engine oil. The only downside (if there is one!) is that its grade performance peeled off ever so slightly lower in sustained operating temperatures than a fully fledged hypoid synthetic oil. Due to the fact this is not a racing car, its operating in the UK where average ambient rarely squeaks above 10 degrees C and the Vito is rarely fully loaded pulling a max weight trailer at 80 mph down an Autobahn. I choose to ignore this paper spec detail.It was to be a Synthetic ATF sold by GSF Car parts. They sell it as ATF-U. You will need the best part of two x 1L bottles. Remove the fill plug completely, then place a bucket beneath the drain and remove that plug. Let the oil drain for a few minutes to empty the contents as best you can.At this point the level is correct and refit the fill plug. Clean up any mess and lower the vehicle and road test.What a difference this has made in continued driving and in my opinion is a very worthwhile result considering the research I had put in. I hope this modification helps you out as much as it helped me.As the slave cylinder compensates for wear of the plate assembly, it could be that it is extended to its furthest extent and still not applying enough travel to clear the friction lining fully from the pressure plate, possibly signifying a clutch that is almost end of life.