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business studies examination guidelinesIt may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. So this note gives the benefit of my experience in getting this cylinder stat working. Most commonly people will be replacing a bi metal mechanical thermostat which sits on the cylinder with this electronic, remotely controlled stat. The PTT2 has a much more sensitive response than most bi metal stats. Typically the PTT2 will cut out at the temperature you set and cut back in when the temperature falls by 5 or 6 degrees centigrade. A bi metal stat will need a much bigger temperature drop before it cuts back in. So if you set a low temperature (say 45 to 50 degrees) to save fuel then with a bi metal stat the water will run cold before it has time to be reheated. The PTT2 avoids this problem. The PTT2 has five connections. This means you will need to run a 2 core and earth wire (Brown, Blue, Earth) plus a three core and earth wire (Red, Blue, Yellow, Earth) to the stat. To distinguish the two blue wires, strip one wire back at each end and sleeve it in red (say). The lead from the sensor to the stat can be fed into the stat on the surface or from the rear if the stat is mounted on a 25mm box. The sensor can be strapped to the HW cylinder or if the cylinder has the foam moulded to it, cut a hole slightly bigger than the sensor, push the sensor against the cylinder, fill round with foam insulation cut from pipe insulation, push down and seal over with brown parcel tape. The PTT2 fitting instructions are at the end of this note. In the Wiring Centre both earth wires should be sleeved and connected to Terminal 3. The Connect to Terminal Numbers are those in the standard Y plan Wiring Centre with a mid position valve. These are shown in the diagram below. If you have a different Wiring Centre set up, then you can deduce the correct terminals by choosing Blue with sleeve (H) connects to the terminal which connects via the orange (usually) wire to the mid position valve.http://www.branchennachweis.eu/userfiles/emu-b3-manual-pdf.xml

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Yellow (C) connects to the terminal which connects via the grey (usually) wire to the mid position valve. Red (L) connects to the terminal which has a wire running to the live on the fused connection unit supplying power to the boiler. Blue (N) connects to the terminal which has a wire running to the neutral on the fused connection unit supplying power to the boiler. How it works If timer is switched on for water heating then if the temperature not satisfied the water will heat (green light on Stat) until it is hot enough (red light on Stat). If the water temperature falls (say through use) cycle will repeat. If timer is not switched on for water heating, no lights will show. If timer is not switched on for water heating and you push the boost button, yellow and green lights will show and a tank of water will be heated at which point the red light will show. However in North America (and perhaps elsewhere) the recommended temperature is 49 degrees. Regulations state WHILE THERE IS A VERY SLIGHT RISK OF PROMOTING LEGIONELLAE BACTERIA WHEN HOT WATER TANKS ARE MAINTAINED AT 49 (120 F) DEGREES, THIS LEVEL IS STILL CONSIDERED SAFE FOR THE MAJORITY OF THE POPULATION.Reducing the temperature will save about 8 on your water heating bills.Installing a Potterton PTT2 Cylinder Thermostat Faced with this problem I found lots of confusing and incomplete information on various sites. So this note gives the benefit of my experience in getting this cylinder stat working. Most commonly people will be replacing a bi metal mechanical thermostat which sits on the cylinder with this electronic, remotely controlled stat. The PTT2 has a much more sensitive response than most bi metal stats. Typically the PTT2 will cut out at the temperature you set and cut back in when the temperature falls by 5 or 6 degrees centigrade. A bi metal stat will need a much bigger temperature drop before it cuts back in.http://www.priom.com.br/userfiles/emu-e4xt-ultra-manual-pdf.xml So if you set a low temperature (say 45 to 50 degrees) to save fuel then with a bi metal stat the water will run cold before it has time to be reheated. The PTT2 avoids this problem. The PTT2 has five connections. This means you will need to run a 2 core and earth wire (Brown, Blue, Earth) plus a three core and earth wire (Red, Blue, Yellow, Earth) to the stat. To distinguish the two blue wires, strip one wire back at each end and sleeve it in red (say). The lead from the sensor to the stat can be fed into the stat on the surface or from the rear if the stat is mounted on a 25mm box. The sensor can be strapped to the HW cylinder or if the cylinder has the foam moulded to it, cut a hole slightly bigger than the sensor, push the sensor against the cylinder, fill round with foam insulation cut from pipe insulation, push down and seal over with brown parcel tape. The PTT2 fitting instructions are at the end of this note. In the Wiring Centre both earth wires should be sleeved and connected to Terminal 3. The Connect to Terminal Numbers are those in the standard Y plan Wiring Centre with a mid position valve. These are shown in the diagram below. If you have a different Wiring Centre set up, then you can deduce the correct terminals by choosing Blue with sleeve (H) connects to the terminal which connects via the orange (usually) wire to the mid position valve. Yellow (C) connects to the terminal which connects via the grey (usually) wire to the mid position valve. Red (L) connects to the terminal which has a wire running to the live on the fused connection unit supplying power to the boiler. Blue (N) connects to the terminal which has a wire running to the neutral on the fused connection unit supplying power to the boiler. Now for the Unfortunate Twist The thermostat will not create the correct switching through the mid-position valve when the boost button is pushed. No HW will be heated, there will only be CH heat. This is not the result we require.http://schlammatlas.de/en/node/23114 HW will be heated, but (as expected) there will be no CH heat. This is the result we require. An A4810 like this will do the trick: This is widely available for about ?7. The required connections are: PTT2 Terminal C to A4810 control terminal, A4810 control terminal to Terminal 7 in the standard Y plan Wiring Centre. This is AC so the A4810 terminals can be used either way round. Programmer HWoff Terminal to A4810 output terminal Terminal 7 in the standard Y plan Wiring Centre to A4810 output terminal. This is AC so the A4810 terminals can be used either way round. How it works If the programmer is switched on for water heating then if the temperature not satisfied the water will heat (green light on Stat) until it is hot enough (red light on Stat). If the water temperature falls (say through use) cycle will repeat (while the programmer is calling for HW). If the programmer is not switched on for water heating, no lights will show. If the programmer is not switched on for water heating and you push the boost button, yellow light (on the boost button) and green light will show and a tank of water will be heated at which point the red light only will show.You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Just changed over from the PTT1 for no reason other than the PTT1 is 20 years old. Wiring is the same except the PTT2 calls for a an extra live from the programmer. I wired as per the instructions but without a live to 4 TL. Started HW and no start. Press Boost and boiler starts diverter valve operates and closed on reaching temperature. Since PTT2 (4) TL requires a live from the programmer I put in a link between 2 and 4. This caused the relay to dance. Any help will be much appreciated. Great site! Ian Click to expand. After pressing Boost and then later the HW is satisfied. If the stat then calls for HW the only way is to press Boost again. The instructions say ' Terminal 4 (TL) should be connected to the 'Hot Water on' output of the timer' (Term 3 on the Potterton programmer) it goes on to say Terminal 3(L) is for permanent live supply and must be connected to the time control L on a Potterton programmer. So I assume both 3L and 4TL are live? IanWith power off to replace front I notice LED calling for HW is on. Turn up and it's off. Power back on the the programmer HW - no start but Heating on - boiler starts. IanI was working on some low voltage stuff and believe it or not I had the meter set incorrectly. I know! - I can hardly believe it my self. With power on to the Programmer. All off 2(C) is L When the boiler is calling for HW 3 (L) is Live. When the boiler is calling for CH 2(C) is live but not 3 (L). When the CH is turned off 2(C) is Live When both CH and HW on 3 (C) is Live Ian Click to expand. Click to expand. It also says that 4TL should be connected to the 'hot water on' output from the time control (term 3 on a Potterton programmer. Terminal 1 Heating should be connected to the boiler or 'open' wire of the hot water zone contol depending on the type of system.Terminal 3(L) is a permanent live supply and must be connected to the time control on a Potterton programer. What I don't understand is the instructions call for a live to 4(TL) from live on a Potterton programmer. Terminal (3(L) also has to be live from the same source.I wonder if a link from 2 (live when central heating is off) is put to 4(TL) to start the boiler in HW mode? IanClick to expand. I tried to speak with Potterton Support. Spent 30 minutes waiting on hold with a message every 20 secs or so, to say somebody would answer. So I telephoned Sales. Answered right away!! Well they would for sales. So I explained I had been on hold (premium?!) to Support and he tried to get hold of them. After 10 minutes he said Support would telephone back as soon as they were free. It has not happened.You say the ppt2 requires an extra live from the programmer. Is this a permanent live. Are there any wiring examples in the booklet?You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local. Report this Document Download now Save Save POTTERTON EP2000 EP2002 EP3002 user manual.doc For Later POTTERTON EP2000 EP2002 EP3002 User Manual Original Title: POTTERTON EP2000 EP2002 EP3002 user manual.doc Uploaded by n67250 55 (11) 55 found this document useful (11 votes) 58K views 4 pages More Save Save POTTERTON EP2000 EP2002 EP3002 user manual.doc For Later 55 55 found this document useful, Mark this document as useful 45 45 found this document not useful, Mark this document as not useful Embed Share Print Download now Jump to Page You are on page 1 of 4 Search inside document. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. They also told me best course of action is to 'get a new boiler system' - the boiler itself was replaced just 3 years ago, and doesnt seem to have any issues. Any help would be appreciated, happy to give more info if what I've said doesn't cover it.The best way to fault find is for someone that has a comprehensive knowledge of a Y Plan installation and how it all works to fault find with a multimeter by checking the correct voltages are present at the right places with the system in various states. So not really a DIY job. However if you are electrically competent, then there is a basic test you can do. First the system needs to be in a functioning state, so back as it was. (Three port valves do get hot due to the hot water that flows through them, and even heat from their motor which under certain circumstances will be permanently energised. If it is faulty, the easiest way to proceed is to replace it with like for like, but you may struggle to find one. If you want to use an alternative replacement, such as strap on cylinder thermostat, (eg Honeywell L641A, or Drayton HTS3) you can do, but you would need to replace the present PTT2 with a terminal box having a flex outlet and then run a heat resistant cable to the new thermostat. Most cylinder thermostats including the examples above, would only need to use the following wires. The instructions will confirm if this is the case or not. So these wires should simply be terminated and made safe.You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I was hoping to do a nice and easy quick swap, but cannot find this part anywhere. Can anybody recommend an alternative HWC thermostat that would be a reasonably easy swap for this 5-wire unit - the Potterton PTT2. Thanks in advance. JamesThe easiest way to proceed is to replace it with like for like, if you do manage to find one. If you want to use an alternative replacement, such as strap on cylinder thermostat, (eg Honeywell L641A, or Drayton HTS3) you can do, but you would need to replace the present PTT2 with a terminal box having a flex outlet and then run a heat resistant cable to the new thermostat. Most cylinder thermostats including the examples above, would only need to use the following wires. The instructions will confirm if this is the case or not. So these wires should simply be terminated and made safe.No sign of any PTT2 thermostats anywhere but will keep my eye out.You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. It is a discontinued product and has been replaced by model PTT2, which requires a live feed to run it, to which I don't have easy access in my airing cupboard. Does anyone know from where I can still get a PTT1, or can anyone recommend a direct replacement from another manufacturer. The Honeywell L641A1039 has attracted my attention and I'm currently asking Honeywell if it would be suitable.I have discovered that the feed to the motorised valve in the airing cupboard is indeed a permanent live.Its mechanical and requires no perm live. If you have S plan then very easy wiring.You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local. Do not change this feature unless the scope of the change is fully understood. You should take a network trace before changing this value to confirm that the request is not malicious. This could be caused by a malformed URL sent to the server by a malicious user. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thanks for any replies Boiler Potterton Kingfsher ML50 Programmer Potterton EP2002 System type Gravity Water, Pumped CHI don't have the wiring instructions here but Im almost certain the Com input is to provide a live to the H output when the stat is calling for heat. Thats why the link is there from the TL input. I suggest you check this with a multimeter when you have wired up the TL and N pins. MartynI will check it out properly with a multimeter. Thanks. It is therefore important that no external devices (e.g., flue dampers, economisers etc.) be directly connected to these appliances unless covered by these installation instructions or otherwise recommended in writing. Further adjustment can be made down to a minimum wall thickness of 76 mm (3 in) by cutting the ducts. The appliance may be installed in any room, although particular attention is drawn to the requirements of the current I.E.E. wiring regulations and, in Scotland, the electrical provisions of the Building Standards applicable in Scotland with respect to the installation of the appliance in a room containing a bath or shower. Where the installation of the boiler will be in an unusual location special procedures may be necessary and BS. 6798 1987 gives detailed guidance on this aspect Reference should be made to BS. 6891. The requirements of the local authorities and the Building Regulations must be adhered to. Openings must be provided at the top and bottom of the cupboard each of which should have a free area as shown in TABLE 1. Further details for installation of a boiler within a compartment are given in BS. 6798 1987. If it consists of a roof and two other walls the installation shall be treated as suspect and further advice sought. If other controls, such as three position valves are used in the system, the resistance through them, quoted in their manufacturer’s literature must be taken into account The pump may be fitted on either the flow or return and MUST be wired directly to the boiler terminal block when fitted to a fully pumped system. It must be fitted with two isolating valves which are positioned as close to the pump as possible. Isolation of the valves must always leave the open vent unobstructed. This must be installed as shown in FIG 16a. Also systems fitted with controls that close both hot water and central heating circuits while the boiler is still hot must be fitted with a by-pass circuit to dissipate the residual heat within the boiler. Mechanically operated thermostatic domestic hot water temperature control valves which allow the boiler to operate when the valve is closed or partially closed MUST NOT BE FITTED. The total length of the by-pass circuit taken from the boiler connections should be greater than 4 metres of 22 mm pipe.It must comply with BS. 6759 Part 1 and include a manual testing device. It shall be positioned in the flow pipe either horizontally or vertically upwards and close to the boiler. No shut-off valves are to be placed between the boiler and the safety valve. The valve should be installed into a discharge pipe which permits the safe discharge of steam and hot water such that no hazard to persons or damage to electrical components is caused. It should be connected to the system, preferably at the same point as the expansion vessel. Its location should be visible from the filling point. The connecting pipework should not be less than 15 mm (.Methods of supporting the vessel are supplied by the manufacturer. The nitrogen or air charge pressure of the expansion vessel shall not be less than the hydrostatic head, (height of the top point of the system above the expansion vessel). To size the expansion vessel it is first necessary to calculate the volume of water in the system in litres. The following volumes may be used as a conservative guide to calculating the system volume. Where a vessel of the calculated size is not available, the next available larger size should be used. Single feed indirect cylinders are not suitable for sealed systems. Refer to FIG. 6 METHOD 1. For Health and Safety information see back page. The contents of each carton is as follows. Wall thicknesses down to 76mm (3 in) are catered for by shortening the Air Box, Inner Flue Product Tube (see FIG. 11 ) the Air Tube and Outer Flue Product Tube, see FIGS. 13 and 14. Each tube is to be shortened at its plain end by the amount shown in the following table. Secure boiler to wall using the screws from accessory pack B. Remove the case support plate from its transportation position on the fluehood and reposition it as shown in FIG. 12. Using the adhesive tape from accessory pack D seal the joint between Air Tube and Air Box. Note, these screw positions are not symmetrical to ensure correct assembly with the Terminal. Secure Terminal by tightening the four screws. Carefully push Terminal back until the Terminal flange touches the wall. Mark the position of the two Terminal fixing holes (which also pass through the holes in the Air Tube tabs) on the wall. Drill Terminal fixing holes using a 5mm drill and insert the wall plugs from accessory pack F into holes. This must be connected to the boiler as shown in FIG. 16a. The gravity circuit should be installed using 28mm copper pipe with the flow increased to 28mm as close to the boiler connection as possible. The flow and return must be connected to the pumped tappings on the boiler and the gravity flow tapping should be capped off, or may be used as an open vent connection. The boiler terminal block which is situated in the control panel, ( FIG. 2 ) is not designed to accept wiring from all the on-site controls and therefore the installer will usually need to incorporate a suitable junction box or Potterton Electronic Programmer. Route the cable through the plastic bush in the rear of the control panel and the cable clamp as illustrated FIG. 18. Secure the cable within the clamp by tightening the two securing screws. Refit the pump, fill and vent the system and examine for leaks. Refer to FIG. 6 and BS. 6798 1987. Remove pump and flush out the system thoroughly with cold water. Raise the pressure until the safety valve lifts. Release water to attain the correct cold fill pressure. In the event of an electrical fault after installation of the appliance, preliminary electrical system checks must be carried out as described in the BG multimeter instruction book. The checks to be carried out are: A - Earth Continuity, B - Short Circuit, C - Polarity, D - Resistance to Earth. Press and hold in the control knob and press the spark generator button until a click is heard. Release the spark generator button and repeat operation until the pilot ignites. See FIGS. 2 and 22. On release the pilot should remain alight. If the pilot fails to light or goes out at any time, immediately turn the control knob clockwise as far as possible, then release it and wait three minutes before repeating the lighting procedure. The control knob should not be touched during this period. Re-light and test for gas soundness at the screw. Check for water leaks, turn the boiler off, drain the system whilst hot. Set the pressure gauge pointer to the system design pressure. Due to the voltage drop in the overheat thermostat circuit there should be 6.5-8.5 mV closed circuit at the connection to the gas control valve. Drop out should occur between 1-3 mV closed circuit If the pilot needs adjustment, rotate the pilot adjustment screw clockwise to reduce or anti-clockwise to increase the flame. See FIG. 22. It will require manually re-setting and the pilot re-lighting if an overheat condition occurs. The re-set button can be found on the right hand side of the control panel. See FIG. 2. The main burner must shut down immediately. This is done by pressing the release lever through the hole in the underside of the case. The householder must also be advised of the importance of annual servicing, and of the precautions necessary to prevent damage to the system and building, in the event of the system remaining out of commission in frost conditions. The frequency of cleaning will depend upon the particular installation conditions, and the use to which the appliance is put, but in general, once per year should be adequate. The boiler CODE NUMBER which should be quoted when ordering spares or requesting information is on the front of the control panel below the boiler thermostat knob. It is advisable to clean the boiler immediately after the end of the heating season. Turn off the gas service cock. Remove the two securing nuts. See FIG. 24. Remove case by lifting it from the locating lugs at the top of the boiler. Flex pilot assembly forward to clear bracket, and withdraw assembly upwards. The pilot injector sits loosely on top of the pilot tube, or may be retained in the pilot head itself. Remove and inspect the pilot injector for dirt deposits and clean if necessary. Likewise inspect and clean the electrode and thermocouple using a soft brush. Lift off access cover. Fully tighten the four nuts. If damaged replace as described under replacement. Ensure also that the sealing gasket beneath the burner mounting flange is correctly positioned and a good seal obtained. Secure the assembly with two screws. See FIG. 25. Polarity is not important Secure wires into rear of control panel by sliding retaining grommet into slot. Repair is by replacement Use new sealing gaskets on reassembly. Ensure that the thermocouple lead, electrode lead and pilot tube are correctly replaced in the split grommets. Ensure also that the sealing gasket beneath the burner mounting flange is correctly positioned and a good seal is obtained. Replacement is the reverse of removal. Use new sealing gaskets on reassembly. Do not overtighten the rear thermocouple connection. The filter is large and designed to last the life of the gas control valve under normal operating conditions. It is therefore unlikely to need replacing. However in the event of pilot filter blockage being suspected the complete control valve will need to be replaced. Withdraw thermocouple lead through grommet in burner mounting flange, noting the route the lead takes so that the replacement can be routed in a similar manner to eliminate sharp bends. Ensure that the thermocouple capillary is correctly replaced in the split grommet Then remove the clips securing heat reflector plates to the locating studs on the base of the combustion chamber and lift out reflector plates. Bend back retaining tabs and lift out insulation. Remove the frame and lift out the glass. Take care not to damage the sealing gaskets when dismantling. Remove the split grommet and withdraw the electrode lead through the hole in burner mounting flange. Ensure that the end of the electrode lead covered with black sleeving is attached to the spark generator and that the lead is correctly replaced in the split grommet Remove the two screws securing the thermostat to the control panel. The bulb of the new thermostat should be coated in heat conducting paste. Ensure that the spacer is correctly positioned to retain the thermostat bulb in the bottom of pocket Fibre entry into the eye will cause foreign body irritation. Please refer to our privacy policy for more info. We will source it from our suppliers and aim to get it to you within 3 - 5 working days. Gas Injector. Gas and LPG boilers now different). Gas originally: Q10S303000 now: Q10S026000. Gas, originally: C17302000 now: C17015000. Gas, originally: 33700570 now: 801570.