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blackberry playbook manual downloadWe do however have a download limit of 3 PDF manuals per visitor, so ensure you download only the type of Honda manual you require for your car. You no longer need an account to download free PDF workshop manuals. We do however have download restrictions so please only download the PDF's you require. With this Honda workshop manual, you will have all the information required to perform every job. Extensive detail with step by step instructions and detailed photos and diagrams. Every repair and service detail you require to maintain your Honda Integra. So we've taken the time to break down what we've learned in over 20 years of engine building and racing experience to help users new and old alike have an understanding of what common combinations of engines are capable of as well as create a list of stepping stones for someone wondering what their next modification should be. The horsepower numbers that we give are not hard rules, but a general guideline. Your mileage may vary, but hopefully we can put your expectations in the right realm of thinking. That being said, this guide is not the hard and fast rule on how to build an engine, but rather a general guideline of what we've used successfully for over 2 decades. Each part we list is available to purchase on our webstore, and we also offer packages in conjunction with this guide to make your shopping experience easier. If you want to show appreciation for this walkthrough, please be sure to check out our store for all your performance needs. 1.0 ENGINE BLOCK 1.1 Quick And Dirty Goal Setting The average streetable horsepower in our experience is in the realm of 400-500WHP, anything past 500HP typically results in nothing but spinning.A stock sleeve B-Series engine can hold power. We've made upwards of 700HP on stock GSR sleeves and made multiple 9 second passes, over 200 dyno passes and never cracked a sleeve.http://51hangkou.com/userfiles/1601532522.xml
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That being said, it should be noted: a stock sleeve B18 over 500HP is a While sleeves offer an extremely robust and pretty much bulletproof block, for a street car, we typically err on the side of a CSS (Cylinder Support System). The major benefit being cost.CSS is limited to 81-82mm bore, and we recommend running a.020 over piston in a CSS block to ensure cylinder roundness. If your plan is to mainly be a high power track oriented car that needs to eek out every inch of power on a big bore engines, sleeves take priority. The sleeves are so weak that breakage is never a matter of if, but when. There is no way to reinforce the sleeves adequately to alleviate the breakages, your only option is to sleeve the engine. After sleeving, the engine can hold whatever you throw at it. On average, B20 sleeves break around 300HP like clockwork. There are several design differences, but for the average street car, the differences are miniscule. Compared to a full LS engine, The LS VTEC is a drastic improvement due to head design and VTEC.We're going to start from the bottom up.When assembling, make sure you check or have your machine shop inspect your journals for the appropriate oversized over undersized bearing. For the average street car, we recommend our Humble Performance Bottom End Kit. We offer several stages for street to strip. Our Street Kit is our go-to setup for all sub 700HP cars.Honda OEM is the best pump, period. As stated earlier, for a street car we recommend up to 500HP, because anything past 500HP typically results in excessive tire spin. The result of excess tire spin is a broken oil pump, there are several ways to combat breaking oil pumps, reducing tires spin and installing an aftermarket harmonic balancer like an ATI Fluidampr. We run Cometic headgaskets on every car. Usually a.040 thickness, but thickness should be determined by your cylinder head and engine block deck measurements.http://www.audiohindi.com/dayafter/uploadimages/newsimages/emachine-user-manual.xml If your goal is over 700WHP, we recommend the ARP L19 head studs to prevent head lift. Valves will hold power up to 500 safely, but the OEM Springs and retainers should be replaced to avoid dropping a valve and catastrophically destroying your engine. Check out our head packages for more information on selecting the appropriate parts for your cylinder head. Ferrea 6000 valves are our go-to for every street car. For a track oriented car making upwards of 600HP we recommend the Competition Plus valves on the exhaust side. After 800HP we started bending 6000s like clockwork, but the Comp Pluses are built to sustain heat and are used in engines of upwards of 1200WHP.The OEM LMAs are prone to failure. For our high horsepower applications, we've worked with a manufacture to develop a custom camshaft that you can purchase here. 3.0 PERFORMANCE MODIFICATIONS Here's our general guide to selecting a turbocharger for your application. Ball bearing carries several benefits over journal bearing including spool time and reliability. But comes at the added prices. If you have the money to buy a ball bearing, it's a good idea to run a ball bearing turbo, but not a necessity. Some turbos, like the 6466 only come in ball bearing. Gen 1 Precision Turbos did carry some reliability issues, but since the release of the Gen 2 turbos, we've seen some really impressive numbers and reliability has been dead on. The turbo manifold, and the wastegate. When looking for a wastegate, sizing is crucial to proper low boost control. If you size the gate too small on a bigger turbo, the exhaust gasses will overcome the wastegate and commanding low boost will become impossible. Anything bigger than a 6266 we always suggest a 60mm gate or twin 44 setup, a single gate can be used on a larger turbo if the turbo manifold design is up to the task, but these numbers are for a general idea. Many people will buy the cheaper, thin walled ebay ramhorn manifolds and run into cracking issues. We've seen everything from runners breaking to wastegates blowing off the manifold. Make sure you buy a high quality manifold. It might hurt in the beginning, but most reputable builders carry lifetime warranties in the event of cracking whereas you'll spend a lot of downtime pulling your turbo and rewelding poorly constructed manifolds. Our two favorite brands for manifolds are Go-Autowerks and KLM. Both companies are staples in the Honda industry and carry great craftsmanship. Both come with pros and cons, and you honestly can't go wrong with either of them. A ramhorn offers faster spool but can limit top end power, whereas a topmount manifold won't have the same response as a ramhorn, but it makes up in top end power. For a smaller street setup, pairing with a ramhorn for quick usable power is a great idea. For a strip focused car, a top mount allows you to get the most of a big turbo. Both can work great on the street, just be conscious of your turbo sizing and overall goals. There are many options available on the market. Many people will cheap out on intercoolers for street setups and do fine sizing will just be crucial. When selecting your intercooler, be sure to read the specs and flow rate to see what it supports. We suggest selecting the appropriate KLM or Go Autowerks Intercooler for your setup. Consider it future proofing. There's no real guide to them, most will work. Cheap ebay ones tend to leak and can cause the turbo to go into an overspeed condition. Be sure to buy a quality valve like a Tial, genuine HKS, Turbosmart, etc. There are several intakes that work great for every application. We recommend the Pro for mild street builds under 500HP.If you're looking for 500-800HP, the Victor X is a good budget alternative. For a strip only car, the Ultra Drag is our 100 go to manifold. For added power, 4Piston also offers CNC porting for the manifold for maximum output. Don't cheap out. Hasport mounts are the best mounts on the market and have been a mainstay forever. This is a great modification for someone not wanting to cruise on the highway at 4000RPM for hours on end. There are several remedies, many weld reinforcements into the transmission case to keep it together. The other solution is running a Libert Billet Bellhousing.If you're looking to make more passes at the track, there are a couple options. The Driveshaft Shop makes several great options that are guaranteed to get you A to B reliably without worrying about breakages. The second option is a lesser known option. OEM 36mm RSX Axles. We replace the hubs with Karcepts 36mm Hubs and run 36mm OEM axles without worry in several cars. Most notably, our 900HP SFWD build 'La Y'Axiel' went 9.0 on 36mm Axles without breaking a sweat on countless launches. If you're looking to get serious, Driveshaft Shop 5.9s are borderline unbreakable, but come with a pricetag. I cannot stress this enough. PRELOAD. Preloading is the act of lightly engaging the clutch while holding the car in place with the parking or staging brake. This removes shock load from the axles, and gearset and will make the driveline last much longer. If you can properly preload, your axles will thank you. 4.3 Clutch For up to 600HP we recommend the Competition Clutch Stage 4 for a street driven car. If you plan on tracking your car more, we recommend the Competition Clutch Super Single. Both clutches have roughly the same torque capacity, but the super single shifts at high RPMs with more ease than a Stage 4 at the cost of some driveability. Over 600HP is twin disk territory. A twin disk does not have anywhere near the driveability of a single plate full face disc, but it has significantly more torque capacity. E85 is a robust fuel with high detonation resistance. The only reason I would err on the side of gasoline would be availability and if you plan on making long trips regularly (but Flex-Fuel is an option!). E85 does come at the cost of increased maintenance and worse fuel economy, but the upsides are tremendous in terms of reliability and power. This fueling guide will carry information for both E85 and Gasoline 5.1.1 E85 MAINTENANCE With E85 comes increased maintenance. Here are some quick tips to make sure your ethanol based fuel system stays in tact. 1.) Drive the car regularly. If you are going to let the car sit for more than 3 weeks, you need to pickle the fuel system with gasoline to remove the corrosive ethanol from the system. 2.) Any time you're about to do maintenance that involves removing injectors from the engine or fuel rail, either pickle the system or IMMEDIATELY have the injectors cleaned, if injectors are out of the fuel rail for more than a few days, the potential for them to seize is extremely high. This is especially true for injectors without stainless internals like most 2000cc injectors. 3.) If you are running aftermarket fuel lines, make sure they are E85 compatible, PTFE lines preferable. 4.) Make sure you run an adequate fuel filter system. Injector manufactures call for a certain micron filter for injectors. 5.2 Fuel Pressure Before jumping into injector and fuel pump sizing, one must understand fuel demand. Your standard fuel system will run a base fuel pressure of 43.5psi. As your car comes onto boost, fuel pressure will rise. So at 30psi of boost with a 43.5psi base pressure, your fuel system will be running at 73.5psi. Why is that number important. Injector flow rates and fuel pump flow rates change as fuel pressure changes. A '450lph' Walbro pump doesn't ALWAYS flow 450lph. In fact, Walbro fuel pumps are rated at 0psi pressure, whereas the pump we recommend, the Deatshwerks DW400 flows 400lph at 40psi of pressure. Why is that important. Because as fuel pressure goes up, flow goes down. Don't be confused by the nomenclature, calculate your fuel pump and injector demands based on how much boost and base pressure you're going to run. Our standard turbo street cars are usually set at 60psi base pressure and will see boost levels of 30-35psi on average on the dyno. OEM lines are roughly -6an. On a DW400, we've made 840WHP on stock EG fuel lines using a DW400 fuel and DW2000 injectors. Why upgrade the lines. Think of fueling the same way you drink through a straw. A smaller, more restrictive straw requires more effort to move fluid, whereas a bigger straw allows more fluid to pass with less effort. The same applies to fuel lines. Opening up the lines allows the pump to move more fuel with less effort. As you start reaching higher power, and as fuel demand increases, a large drop in fuel pressure at high RPM indicates undersized fuel lines or an undersized pump which can cause an engine to lean out and fail. When searching for an injector, make sure it's a Bosch EV14 core. Most modern injectors are flow-matched Bosch EV14 Injectors to make fueling even across all cylinders and high quality idle. Easy rule of thumb sizing for your injectors: Gasoline: 550cc Injectors up to 300HP 850cc Injectors up to 400HP 1000cc Injectors up to 500HP E85 (4 Injectors): 1000cc Injectors up to 400HP 1300cc Injectors up to 600HP 1650cc Injectors up to 700HP 2200cc Injectors up to 900HP. 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