atlas copco ga 55 service manual
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atlas copco ga 55 service manualWARNINGS should be Disregarding a CAUTION Make sure the work area is Refer to Cleaning Parts and This includes procedures in- Debris may be blown Never direct compressed air Do not allow children Do not allow The air jet is ca- Only use gasoline as fuel See Cleaning This includes procedures in- The terms WARNING, CAUTION and NOTE volving drilling, grinding, hammering, compressed have specific meanings in this manual. Yamaha’s pri- There are many types of chemical cleaners and sol- mary ID number is a variation of the VIN number. Have these numbers available when ordering parts. If neces- sary, use Table 1 and Table 2 to identify a particular motorcycle. FASTENERS Proper fastener selection and installation is im- portant to ensure that the vehicle operates as de- signed and can be serviced efficiently. After cor- rectly tightening the fastener and aligning the holes, insert the cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends over the fastener (Figure 7). Using an oil with a different classification can cause engine damage. Viscosity is an indication of the oil’s thickness. Full support Thin oils have a lower number while thick oils have Direction areas of thrust. Use extreme care when working with brake fluid. Immediately clean up any spills with soap and water. Rinse the area with plenty of clean water. Hydraulic brake systems require clean and mois- ture-free brake fluid. The part number for special A threadlocking compound is a fluid applied to tools sold in the United States begin with a two let- the threads of fasteners. This must match the distance across two parallel flats on the bolt head or nut. The box-end wrench is an excellent tool because it grips the fastener on all sides. This reduces the chance of the tool slipping. Sockets combined with any number of drivers make them undoubtedly the fastest, safest and most convenient tool for fastener removal and installa- tion.http://sputnik.kr.ua/fckeditor/editor/filemanager/connectors/userfiles/electrical-estimating-manual-free-download.xml
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Impact Driver An impact driver provides extra force for remov- ing fasteners by converting the impact of a hammer into a turning motion. A torque wrench is a precision tool that must be properly cared for to remain accurate. Store torque wrenches in cases or separate padded drawers within a toolbox. Follow the manufacturer’s in- structions for their care and calibration. Snap Ring Pliers Snap ring pliers (Figure 24) are specialized pliers with tips that fit into the ends of snap rings to re- move and install them. Snap ring pliers are available with a fixed action (either internal or external) or convertible (one tool works on both internal and external snap rings). Al- though not as precise as a micrometer, they allow reasonable precision, typically to within 0.05 mm (0.001 in.). Most calipers have a range up to 150 mm (6 in.). Use it when reading decimals from one-tenth to one one-thousandth of an inch or millimeter. They must be used and maintained with great care. Note the following: 1. Store micrometers in protective cases or separate padded drawers in a toolbox. 2. When in storage, make sure the spindle and anvil faces do not contact each other or any other objects. When using a bore gauge, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.Often the threads can be repaired by running a tap (for internal threads on nuts) or die (for external threads on bolts) through the threads (Figure 42). Because bearings are preci- sion parts, they must be properly lubricated and maintained. If a bearing is damaged, replace it im- mediately. When installing a new bearing, take care to prevent damaging it. Bearing replacement proce- dures are included in the individual chapters where applicable;. Never strike the bearing directly with a hammer or the bearing will be damaged. Improper removal of a seal can damage the housing Dust lip or shaft. Improper installation of the seal can dam- Main lip age the seal.http://www.mciklimlendirme.com.tr/userfiles/electrical-engineering-safety-manual.xml Fill the engine This is especially important on a motorcycle as with the recommended type of oil.The tires can 3. Drain all fuel from the fuel tank, run the engine easily develop flat spots if the motorcycle is stored until all the fuel is consumed from the lines and car- while resting on them. Four-stroke engine operat- the symptoms as precisely as possible. Gather as ing principles are described in Figure 1. much information as possible to aid diagnosis. If the machine has been sitting for any length of Never assume anything and do not overlook the ob- time and refuses to start, check and clean the spark vious. Use the operating requirements described in this chapter. If Yamaha Ignition Checker (part No. YM-34487 or the engine still will not start, refer to the appropriate 90890-06754), the Motion Pro Ignition System troubleshooting procedures in this chapter. If the engine is flooded, do not perform this test. The firing of the spark plug can ignite fuel ejected from the opened spark plug hole. If the engine does not 5. Incorrect valve clearance or valve timing.If the fuel flow is acceptable, seats. At first, this rich.Distinguish- 3. Choke not operating correctly.Check the engine oil level before each ride, and top off the oil Supply Cylinder as described in Chapter Three. Oil pump service is pressure pressure described in Chapter Five. While possible engine repair. Clutch Slips 3. Bent shift fork shaft. If the engine speed increases without an increase 4. Gear groove worn. in motorcycle speed, the clutch is probably slipping. 5. Damaged stopper bolt. Some main causes of clutch slipping are: 6. Incorrect Fast Idle Speed Bent terminal A fast idle speed can be due to one of the follow- ing problems: 1. Each test presumes the components tested in the earlier steps are working properly. The tests can yield invalid results if they are performed out of sequence. If a test indicates that a component is working properly, reconnect the electrical connec- tions and proceed to the next step. NOTE Dielectric grease is special grease that can be used on electrical compo nents such as connectors and battery connections. Ammeter Ohmmeters may be analog (needle scale) or digital (LCD or LED readout). Both types of ohmmeters have different ranges of resistance for accurate readings. The analog ohmmeter also has a set-adjust control which is used to zero or cali- brate the meter;. To isolate the problem, connect the jumper be- tween the battery and the lamp (B, Figure 13). If it comes on, the problem is between these two points. Next, connect the jumper between the battery and the fuse side of the switch. Check the ignition system diode by perform- retest that specific system to verify your test results. Using gasoline with a lower octane rating Minor problems found during periodic inspec- tions are generally simple and inexpensive to cor- can cause pinging or spark knock. The Tune-Up Specification label provides tune-up specifications. This label is on the lower frame member just beneath the left side cover (Fig- ure 1). Remove any debris that may have passed through a broken element. 6. Inspect the air filter element for tears or other damage that would allow unfiltered air to pass into the engine. Large differences in- dicate worn or broken rings, leaky or sticky valves, blown head gasket or a combination of all. Install the timing in- spection cover (A, Figure 9).Note the following: a. Regap the plug as described in this section. 7. Inspect the spark plug cap and wires for cracks, hardness or other damage. If necessary, test the spark plug cap as described in Chapter Nine. Gap and Installation 1. If the cap does not completely contact the plug, the en gine may falter and cut out at high en gine speeds. COLD TYPE TYPE 6. Install each plug cap onto the correct spark plug. Press the cap onto the spark plug and rotate the as- sembly slightly in both directions. Carbon fouled 3. Ignition component failure. Soft, dry, sooty deposits covering the entire firing 4. Spark plug heat range too cold.This condition is commonly caused by a spark plug with a heat range that is too hot.See A, Fig- ure 30 and B, Figure 28.Start the engine and let it warm up. 8. With the engine running at the idle speed listed in Table 5, check the gauge readings. The vacuum pressure at each cylinder must be within the range specified in Table 5. Readjust as necessary. 7. Shut off the engine and disconnect the portable tachometer. Throttle Cable Adjustment Always check the throttle cables before making any carburetor adjustments. Do not use chain lube to lubricate the cables. If necessary, refer to Throttle Cable Adjustment in this chapter. NOTE The main cause of cable breaking or cable stiffness is improper lubrica. Refer to Chapter Twelve. NOTE Some maintenance chargers can be used while the battery is connected to the motorcycle. New Battery Initialization Always replace a maintenance free battery with another maintenance free battery. Also make sure the battery is charged completely before installing it. Failure to do so will reduce the life of the battery. Check with the dealership on the type of pre-service that the battery received. FRONT SUSPENSION Fork Oil Change Yamaha does not provide an oil change interval for the front fork. Nonetheless, it is a good practice to change the fork oil once a year. If the fork oil be- comes contaminated with dirt or water, change it immediately. Inspection 1. Securely support the motorcycle so that the front tire clears the ground. The third position is the default setting. The different adjuster ranges are: soft (No. 1 and No. 2), standard (No. Check the brake hoses between the master cylin- der and each brake caliper. If there is any leak, tighten the connections and bleed the brakes as de- scribed in Chapter Thirteen. On the front brakes, replace both pads in both front calipers if any pad is worn to the wear limit. It must be visible through the hole (C, Figure 64) in the clevis. The This includes the camshafts, valves, cylinder heads, wet-plate clutch is located on the right side of the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder blocks. The Yamaha sheave holder (part No. YS-01880 or 90890-01701) or its equivalent is needed to per- CAUTION form this procedure. Rear cylinder head 3. Cylinder head cap nut 14. Exhaust valve cover 4. Washer 15. Exhaust manifold 5. Cylinder bolt 16. Manifold nut 6. Valve cover bolt 17. Cam sprocket 2. Washer 15. Cam sprocket plate 3. Cylinder head nut 16. Washer 4. Cylinder head cover bracket 17. Cam sprocket bolt 5. Cylinder head bolt 18. Breather plate 6. Take a photograph or make a drawing so you can correctly time the camshaft during assembly. 8A. When servicing the rear cylinder, set it to top dead center on the compression stroke as follows: a. Use the flywheel nut to turn the crankshaft clockwise until the T-mark on the flywheel (A, Figure 9) aligns with the cutout in the al- ternator cover (B). Loosen the fasteners in sequence by reversing the tightening sequence shown in Fig- ure 15. NOTE An exhaust manifold is not used on the front cylinder. 25. If necessary, remove the two manifold nuts (A, Figure 19) and remove the exhaust manifold (B) from the rear cylinder. If the chain is not held taut, the chain may become kinked, and cause damage to the crankcase, the cam chain and timing sprocket. 14. The timing mark on the cam sprocket (B, Figure 14) should align with the pointer on the cylinder head (C) as noted during removal. 19. If the timing marks do not align, remove the sprocket. Retainer bolt bushing is severely worn, inspect the bushing bore 4. Replace the cam- shaft if a lobe is worn beyond the service limits specified in Table 2. 6. Measure the camshaft runout with a dial indica- tor and V-blocks. ROCKER ARMS The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are required to remove the rocker arms: 1. Slide hammer bolt (8 mm): YU-1083-2 or 90890-01085. Installation NOTE Each rocker arm and shaft have be come mated through wear. Unless a part is being replaced, install each rocker arm with its original shaft, and install them in their original locations (intake or exhaust side) in the cylinder head. YS-01880 wheel installed. However, the fly or 90890-01701), or its equivalent, is required to wheel must be removed for cam perform this procedure. These marks must be aligned during assembly. 4. Remove the retainer bolt (A, Figure 55) and slide the retainer (B) from the slots on the cam chain drive assembly shaft. CAUTION An oil slot (Figure 56) in the end of the drive assembly shaft collects oil that lubricates the shaft and bushing in the cam chain drive assembly. Primary drive nut 3. Cam chain drive assembly 11. Lockwasher 4. Cam chain 12. Keyed washer 5. Front chain guide 13. Timing gear 6. Retainer bolt 14. A valve spring compressor (Yamaha part No. YM-04019 or 90890-04019), or equivalent, is needed to remove and install the valves. 25 mm outside diamter. Make sure the opposite end of the com- pressor rests against the valve head. Label the set so you will know what cylinder it came from and whether it is an in take or an exhaust valve. This keeps parts from getting mixed up and makes installation simpler. Do not mix components from different valve assemblies or excessive wear may occur. Never reinstall a valve guide or circlip. They are no longer true and are not within tolerance. 8. After the cylinder head cools, check the guide bore for carbon or other contamination. Clean the bore thoroughly. The following procedure is provided if you choose to perform this task yourself.Check the seat by performing the leakage test described in the Cylinder Head section earlier in this chapter. If fluid leaks past any of the seats, disassemble that valve assembly and repeat the lapping procedure Valve lapper until there are no leaks. Inspection The following procedure requires the use of highly specialized and costly measuring instru- ments. WARNING The edges of all piston rings are very sharp. Do not drive out the piston pin. This could damage the pis- ton pin, connecting rod or piston. 6. Remove the piston from the connecting rod and remove the remaining circlip from the piston. Dis- card both piston pin circlips. Make sure the circlip’s end gap does not align with the notch in the piston (Figure 120). If a piston shows signs of partial sei- zure (bits of aluminum build-up on the piston skirt), replace the piston to reduce the possibility of engine noise and further piston seizure. If the clearance is outside the range specified in Table 2, replace the piston pin (if the piston bore inside diameter is within specification). Recondition or replace the piston if necessary. 4. Roll each ring around its piston groove as shown in Figure 131 to check for binding. Minor binding may be cleaned up with a fine-cut file. Engine bracket upper 2. Cylinder head bracket bolt through bolt through bolt 3. Front frame member nut 9. Upper rear engine 14. Rear frame member bolt 4. Rear engine through bolt mounting bolt 15. Remove the cylinder head covers from each engine from the frame. Though this is cylinder head (Chapter Four). Note that the bolt with two oil holes (B, Figure 5) se cures the oil pipe to the cylinder head. If any cracks are detected, take the chassis assembly to a Yamaha dealership for further exami- nation. Installation 10. Install the front engine bracket as follows: 1. Disconnect the three-pin stator connector (A, Figure 21) and the two-pin pickup coil connector (B) from their respective mates on the wiring harness. FLYWHEEL AND STARTER CLUTCH The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are needed to remove or install the fly- wheel and starter clutch: 1. Sheave holder: part No. YS-01880 or 90890- 01701. Snap ring 3. One-way clutch 11. Washer 4. Flywheel 12. Bearing 5. Washer 13. Starter wheel gear 6. Nut 14. Starter idler gear assembly 7. NOTE Install the sheave holder so it sits completely flat against the flywheel. Remove each pin and spring (Figure 36) from the slots in the flywheel. Installation 1. Insert a pin into each spring (Figure 37). 2. If either part is worn or dam aged, replace the starter clutch assembly. 4. The one-way clutch is faulty if it fails either test. Replace the starter clutch assembly. Replace the gear if any teeth are worn, broken or missing. 4. Inspect the bearing surface (B, Figure 48) of the starter wheel gear for nicks or scratches. Replace the wheel gear if it shows signs of wear. Watch for the O-ring (Figure 54) behind the fitting on each end of the pipe. NOTE This pump has two sets of rotors: a thick set that fits in the primary body and a thin set for the secondary body. Keep each set of rotors together with its respective body. The end with the holes enters from the out- board side of the cover. CRANKCASE The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are needed to service the crankcase: 1. Crankcase separating tool (part No. YU-01135-A or 90890-01135). See Figure 76. fork shaft stopper plate (Figure 75) from the right crankcase half. 6. Before removing the crankcase bolts, draw an outline of each case half on a piece of cardboard. NOTE Bolts No. 15 and No. 16 are silver col ored. These bolts must be reinstalled in their original locations during as sembly. BLIND BEARING REMOVAL CAUTION Rotate the crankshaft frequently dur ing the tightening process.Do Puller not heat the crankcase with a torch. If the side clearance is still outside the specified range, replace the crankshaft. 9. Use V-blocks and a dial gauge to check the crankshaft runout (Figure 96). If the runout ex- ceeds the specification in Table 1, replace the crankshaft. CAUTION Each connecting rod has a Y em bossed on one side (Figure 100). The connecting rod must be installed so this side faces the left crankshaft end (the tapered end). Be sure the weight marks (Figure 99) on the side of the rod and cap align.Replace any part that is dam- Refer to Figure 1. Oil will leak past these bolts if the threads are not sealed. Clutch spring bolt 4. Plate seat 14. Spring plate 5. Clutch boss 15. Clutch spring 6. However, do not use a steel washer. Steel will damage the gear teeth. 11B. If a clutch holder is not available, stuff a shop cloth, copper penny, or brass washer (Figure 18) between the primary drive gear and the primary driven gear on the clutch housing. Installation 1. The last item installed should be friction disc. 11. Make sure the marked tab on each friction disc sits in the marked slots on the clutch housing as shown in Figure 15. If necessary, remove the fric- tion discs and clutch plates. Minor roughness can be cleaned with an oilstone or fine file. If any one plate has excessive roughness or wear, re- place all the clutch plates as a set. NOTE The clutch plate thickness does not apply to clutch plate No. They must be smooth for chatter-free operation. If there is any excessive damage, replace the compo- nents. b. Inspect the posts (B, Figure 32) for wear or galling. If there is any excessive damage, re- place the clutch boss. Seat the balls in the detents. 3. Invert the assembly and install it into the housing on the inboard side of the alternator cover (Figure 40). YU-01880 and note the position of the timing or 90890-04131), or an equivalent flywheel holder, marks on the cam sprocket plate and is needed to service the primary drive gear. Push the springs as far apart as possible. 2. See Figure 48. 10. Install the cam chain drive assembly and the cylinder head as described in Chapter Four. 11. Install the clutch as described in this chapter. Inspection 1. Snap ring 4. Stopper lever 14. Shift pedal 5. Collar (XVS1100A models) 6. Pin 15. Wave washer 7. Shift shaft spring (XVS1100A models) 8. Mainshaft fourth gear 3. Countershaft fourth gear 12. Splined washer 4. Snap ring 13. Snap ring 5. Splined washer 14. Mainshaft second-third 6. Make sure the engagement dogs on the gear face away from first gear. 2. Install a splined washer (B, Figure 19) and a new snap ring (C). Make sure all gears mate properly. Have these tools on hand before beginning this procedure. Middle drive shaft. The Yamaha universal joint holder (part No. 5. Inspect the damper spring for wear, cracks or YM-04062 or 90890-04062), or its equivalent, is damage. Drive yoke 5. Collar 15. Washer 6. O-ring 16. Middle driven shaft nut 7. Apply Yamaha Bond 1215 or an equivalent sealant to the threads of the CHECKING MIDDLE. Pull the meter connector (B, Figure 5) from be- neath the ignitor panel and disconnect the 14-pin meter connector (A, Figure 6) from its harness. Pull the tank bracket rearward until the tank is free of the damper (A, Figure 7) on each side of the frame. Remove the fuel tank. 12. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following: a. Air filter housing bracket (lower) 3. Air filter 13. Air filter housing duct 21. Cylinder head 4. Clean out accumu- lated moisture or dirt. If necessary, blow the hose clear with compressed air. 2. Inspect all components of the air filter housing assembly. At full throttle, the carburetor venturi is fully open and the needle is lifted far enough to permit the main jet to flow at full capacity. The choke circuit is a bystarter system. If necessary, turn the pull cable adjuster (C, Figure 26) to create addi- tional slack. 12. Loosen the cable clamp screw (A, Figure 27) and disconnect the choke cable end (B) from the choke linkage. These cables must not be twisted, kinked or pinched. Secure the cables in the holder (B, Figure 7). e. Connect each hose to the fitting noted during removal and route the hose along its original path. Remove the throttle arm (B, Figure 35) from the throttle shaft on the front carburetor. 8. Remove the mounting screw (A, Figure 36) and lift the choke linkage (B) from the starter plunger on the rear carburetor. Throttle position 1. Screw 2. Choke cable bracket sensor (TPS) 19. Carburetor heater 3. Top cover 4. Spring 20. Ground terminal 5. Needle retainer 21. Pilot jet 6. Jet needle 22. Spacer 7. Remove the carburetor heater (A, Figure 48) and its washer from the bottom of the carburetor body. When servicing the rear carburetor, also re- move the heater ground terminal (B, Figure 48). 12. Remove the mounting screws (A, Figure 49) and lift the float bowl (B) from the carburetor body. Replace it if necessary. 8. Inspect the diaphragm on the vacuum piston for tears, cracks or other damage. THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT Refer to Chapter Three. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Testing Perform the following test procedure whenever the self-diagnostic system (see Chapter Nine) flashes a TPS error (code 3). Perform the test in the listed sequence. Thermo Switch Test 1. Disconnect the two-pin thermo switch connector (B, Figure 75) from its harness mate. CAUTION The thermo switch is sensitive to shock. Replace the thermo switch if the test results are not within the above specifications. Carburetor Heater Test 1. Disconnect the electrical lead from the carbure- tor heater and remove the heater from the carbure- tor. Starting at the choke lever, carefully pull the cable from the motorcycle, following the path of the original cable. 11. Lubricate the new cable as described in Chap- ter Three. 12. Untie the string from the old cable and tie it to the carburetor end of the new cable. EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL (CALIFORNIA MODELS) All models sold in California are equipped with an evaporative emission control (EVAP) system, which reduces the amount of fuel vapors released into the atmosphere. See Figure 104. Label each hose before removal so they can be easily identified during assembly. 1. Remove the toolbox cover and the side cover from the left side of the motorcycle. Separate each muffler from its respective exhaust pipe and remove the muffler assembly. Correct any leak prior to riding the bike. Inspection The exhaust system is vital to the motorcycle’s operation and performance. Charging Voltage Test 1. Connect an engine tachometer to the spark plug lead on the No. If the bat- tery polarity is incorrect, the voltage regulator, al- ternator and ignitor unit will be damaged. 2. Do not disconnect the battery while the engine is running. 3. Keep all connections between the various units clean and tight. It could come out with the end cap or it could remain in the housing. 5. Lift each planetary gear (Figure 21) from its post in the front end cap. Record the number of shims and their locations. Store the shims in a marked plastic bag. 12. Pull the armature (Figure 29) from the arma- ture housing. The number and or- der of the washers and shims varies. 16. Remove the brush holder assembly (Figure 32) from the armature housing. 17. Remove the insulator (A, Figure 33) from the brush holder assembly. Measure the length of the commutator serviced by a Yamaha dealership or each brush with a vernier caliper. If the length of electrical repair shop. If a pair of bars is discolored, armature coils are grounded. Replace the starter. 4. Measure the diameter of the commutator with a vernier caliper. Replace the starter if the commuta- tor diameter is less than the service limit specified in Undercut Table 1. Make sure the electrical terminals are clean and pack the con- nector with dielectric grease. The re- lay should have continuity. Watch for the collar on each stud. SIGNAL SYSTEM The signal system includes the horn, turn signal lights, brake light and indicator lights (except the high beam indicator, which is part of the lighting system). If it does not read battery voltage, the wiring between the main switch and the flasher relay is faulty. Repair the wir- ing if input voltage is less than battery volt- age. Connect the negative test probe to the black terminal (D). c. If the relay does not have continuity, replace the oil lamp level. 3. Check the oil level indicator wiring as follows: a. Remove the fuel tank (Chapter Eight) and disconnect the meter assembly connector (Figure 87) from its harness mate. For example, Figure 95 shows a continuity dia- gram for a horn button. It shows which terminals should have continuity when the horn switch is in a given position. Note the following: a. Apply lithium soap grease to the ends of the pull and return cables. Never use a higher amperage Blown fuse fuse than specified. An overload could result in fire and complete loss of the bike. Main Fuse Removal The 30-amp main fuse (A, Figure 110) and a spare (B) are located on the starter relay. When inspect- perform any necessary modifications before sup- ing any of the components described in this chapter, porting the motorcycle with the adjustable compare all measurements to the tire and wheel ser- centerstand. Also protect the rotor when transporting a wheel to a dealership or tire specialist. Do not place a wheel in a car trunk or truck bed without protecting the rotor from side impact. The bearing should be tight in the bore. Drive the bearing into the bore until it bottoms. b. Repeat substep a and install the left outer bearing. A wooden block between the brake lever and the han dlebar prevents the accidental appli cation of the brakes. 3. Insert a wooden block between the brake lever and the handlebar grip. When replacing the bolts, al- ways use standard Yamaha brake disc bolts. Never compromise and use generic replace- ment bolts. They may not properly secure the disc to the hub. d. Use a small amount of medium-strength threadlocking compound on the brake disc bolts prior to installation. Notice the dot (Figure 24) on the clamp. The clamp must be reinstalled with the dot facing up. 8. Make sure the shoul- dered side of the collar faces out. 4. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the splines of the driveshaft (Figure 32) and the univer- sal joint (Figure 33). Each bearing should turn smoothly with- out noise or excessive play. 4. If the rear wheel was not inspected during re- moval, inspect it as described in Wheel Inspection in this chapter. Lubricate the new O-rings with lithium soap grease and install them into the hub. c. Install the clutch hub onto the damper studs and install two new lockplates (B, Figure 36). d. Install and evenly tighten the nuts. e. Check the spoke holes for cracks or enlargement. Wheel Truing Preliminaries Before checking runout and truing the wheel, note the following: 1. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good condi- tion. WHEEL RUNOUT NOTE The number of spokes to loosen and tighten will depend on the amount of runout. As a minimum, always adjust two or three spokes in the vicinity of the rim runout. Mark the tire at the highest point (12 o’clock). This is the wheel’s lightest point. Be careful not to pinch the inner tube with the tire irons. 8. When the upper bead is off the rim, remove the nut from the valve stem. Remove the valve from the hole in the rim and remove the tube from the tire (Figure 53). Pry the bead into the rim on both sides of this initial point with your hands and work around the rim to the valve stem. TIRE CHANGING (CAST WHEELS) Tire rim line WARNING Do not install an inner tube inside a tubeless tire. The tube will cause an abnormal heat buildup in the tire. Breaking the bead seal may require the use of a bead breaker (Figure 61).