2010 yamaha stratoliner deluxe motorcycle service manual s
LINK 1 ENTER SITE >>> Download PDF
LINK 2 ENTER SITE >>> Download PDF
File Name:2010 yamaha stratoliner deluxe motorcycle service manual s.pdf
Size: 3358 KB
Type: PDF, ePub, eBook
Category: Book
Uploaded: 8 May 2019, 22:57 PM
Rating: 4.6/5 from 588 votes.
Status: AVAILABLE
Last checked: 5 Minutes ago!
In order to read or download 2010 yamaha stratoliner deluxe motorcycle service manual s ebook, you need to create a FREE account.
eBook includes PDF, ePub and Kindle version
✔ Register a free 1 month Trial Account.
✔ Download as many books as you like (Personal use)
✔ Cancel the membership at any time if not satisfied.
✔ Join Over 80000 Happy Readers
2010 yamaha stratoliner deluxe motorcycle service manual sDuallys, hardtails, fatties, some with suspension, some without, different wheel sizes and frame materials, and then add in all of those different disciplines. The options seem to know no bounds! Mountain bikes are tailor made for specific terrain and riding styles. To throw a little more confusion into the mix, there are also new subclasses of mountain bikes, such as 'Fat' bikes, built for tackling sand and snow. The suspension systems allow for 'travel' which is mountain bike terminology for the amount of suspension movement available. The suspension helps absorb the impact from the trails, reducing the impact on the rider and improving traction and comfort as a result. As the suspension helps to keep the wheels on the ground for traction, typically the rougher the trail, the more suspension required. Typically travel will range from 80 mm - 200 mm front and rear, depending on the intended purpose of the bike. At the opposite end, cross country bikes need to be light and efficient to pedal and so will typically feature around 100mm of travel. Many suspension systems allow riders to 'lock out' the suspension which effectively renders the shocks inactive, consequently reducing movement and saving energy which is better for climbing back up to the top of the mountain or riding on the road to the trail head. The spring can be either air, coil or both. Air springs are lightweight and highly tuneable using a special air pump (shock pump). Coil springs are used on lower cost bikes and also feature on downhill or gravity bikes. Made from either steel or titanium, the coil springs are extremely durable and provide a more responsive feel than air springs due to a lack of tight seals, however, they’re heavier and also require swapping out if the suspension is either too soft or firm.http://www.salmododia.com.br/imagens/imagens_usuarios/dvdr3390-manual.xml
- Tags:
- 2010 yamaha stratoliner deluxe motorcycle service manual s, 2010 yamaha stratoliner deluxe motorcycle service manual service, 2010 yamaha stratoliner deluxe motorcycle service manual series, 2010 yamaha stratoliner deluxe motorcycle service manual software, 2010 yamaha stratoliner deluxe motorcycle service manual study.
Rear suspension frames typically allow the rear wheel to float independent of the main frame via a series of pivots from here, the rear frame section is connected with a rear shock that dampens these forces. The Faux Bar system is very similar to the Four Bar but with pivots on the seat stays. A variation on the Four Bar is the Virtual Pivot Point (or VPP) and the DW-Link which both use twin links to isolate the rear end. A Split Pivot has a rear dropout pivot placed in line with the rear wheel axle, and is virtually the same as Trek's Active Braking Pivot (ABP). A single pivot suspension system is the most simple option featuring a swing arm and one main pivot located above and forward of the bottom bracket. The Floating Drivetrain, so called because the drivetrain is positioned on a link between the front and rear triangles, is another popular system. Hardtail mountain bikes only have suspension in the front of the bike and no suspension in the rear, creating a 'hard tail'. As hardtails have less moving parts they are typically lighter and more affordable than dual-suspension mountain bikes, and also require less maintenance. As with dual suspension lock out systems, the front suspension mechanism on hardtail bikes can also be locked, effectively creating a fully rigid bike. The limited suspension still offers plenty of comfort, so aside from the roughest of trails or steep downhill sections, hardtails are well suited to a variety of different off-road trails. The lack of suspension limits the potential usage of rigid bikes to easier trails, with the tyres providing the majority of the comfort. Whilst their lack of front or rear suspension suspension limits the potential usage on more technical trails, rigid mountain bikes have the added benefit of being lighter weight and lower maintenance. However, advancements in suspension design and typically lower costs means rigid bikes are becoming less common and are typically now only sold in niche categories.http://ecx.ro/userfiles/dvdr3350h-service-manual.xml The shift in recent years has been to larger wheels that offer more traction, greater roll-over ability and a better ride quality, meaning 26in wheels are rarely seen on new mountain bikes. Their increased stability also means they’re good on the descent. They do, however, weigh more than the smaller wheel sizes, can be cumbersome in small frame sizes and are slightly limited in the amount of suspension that can be incorporated around them.These wheels sit somewhere between normal and fat and claim to offer improved traction, control and comfort over a standard wheel. Offering a large volume 2.8 to 3in width, Plus Sized wheels are available in either 26, 27.5 and 29in rim diameters but add further height beyond that.Fat bikes have increased tyre clearance to handle tyres ranging from 3.5in to 5.5 in in width. Due to the extreme air volume given, the majority of fat bikes are either rigid or hardtail. For example, lightweight bikes excel in Cross-Country (XC) racing, so a lightweight frame and components are highly sort after. For other disciplines like Trail, All-mountain or Enduro racing, a bike with longer travel and a dropper seatpost is popular. Head tube angles (the angle at which the front fork protrudes from the frame), depending on whether their focus centres around handling or stability, will be the main geometry tweak. Bikes such as those designed for XC will typically feature a steeper angle (where the front wheel sits closer to the frame) providing more responsive handling and are considered better for climbing, whereas a slacker head tube angle ( Along the way you might come across naturally-occurring obstacles, or in the case of trail centres you’ll also encounter man-made challenges (seesaws, bridges, jumps etc) specifically placed along the path to make things interesting! Green gives you a pleasant family-style journey, blue indicates the path is rollable (no major obstacles to get over).XCO refers to Cross Country Olympic, an Olympic sport that typically consists of 1-2 hour long races held on technical and hilly loop courses.Hardtails can easily cover green and blue trails, but as you move further into red and black trails, suspension becomes increasingly important. For these tougher trails, dual-suspension mountain bikes with 90 - 120 mm of travel are great options. Cross country courses require a lot of pedalling, so a drivetrain that is efficient is also an item to be ticked off. Tyre size will also depend on the type of trail you're riding but either 26in, 27.5in or 29in will get the job done. Head tube angles will vary, bikes more focused on speed will have a steeper head tube angle to provide fast, responsive handling. This is simply 'mountain biking' to many and will generally cover trails with greater technical difficulty than those designed for cross country. These are designed to perfectly balance both climbing and descending, a jack of all trades if you will. Many trail bikes can be raced in cross country events, but are likely to be heavier and slower on climbs and flat terrain. Given the extensive range of trails, you can encounter, a drivetrain with a large gear range is something to look out for. The head tube angle will again vary on the level you plan to be riding at, but generally will be slacker than cross country bikes with angles somewhere between 67 and 69-degrees. This means you can have the saddle at the right height for comfortable and efficient pedalling and with the flick of a switch, drop it out of the way for descending. The stage race format rewards the rider with the lowest accumulated time for a set number of downhill runs. Although the uphill sections aren't timed, on many occasions there are time cutoffs to adhere to. The jumps are more challenging, the drops are bigger, and the trails are more likely to be black level. Look for a bike with 150-180 mm of suspension travel front and rear, a 'dropper (height adjustable) seat post and tyres of 2.3in width or larger. The headtube angle will be slacker than that of trail bikes, but slightly steeper than downhill bikes so that the trek back up with mountain is more manageable. While many brands will only offer one or the other, some brands differentiate the two by ensuring the all mountain bike is more well rounded. In these cases, consider an All mountain bike something designed for technical and aggressive trail riding but without the racing ambitions. Riders will either get a lift up to a certain mountain point, or they’ll sometimes even walk up with the bike. Once at the top, it’s all about getting down to the bottom of the hill as fast as possible while handling the drops and jumps, gaps and rocks, slips and slides as you go. Look for a bike with front and rear suspension travel between 170 - 210mm, a long wheelbase for high-speed stability and tyres at around 2.5in in width. Gears don't matter as much, with the top pro's typically racing with just seven. 27.5in wheels have overtaken 26in as the new standard for this type of bike. The head tube angle for downhill bikes is the slackest of all mountain bikes, at about 62-65-degrees, to account for the high speed and stability required. A moto-style full face helmet, goggles, and knee protection are typically minimum investments. Each material has different characteristics and will affect the cost, comfort, weight and general 'feel' of the bike. It's worth noting that it's often how the chosen material is used by the engineers and manufacturers that matters most, and this is something that each brand will typically play with. Below is a summary of each type of material, check out our Frame Material Explained Guide for a more in-depth description. Aluminium is a metal that can be used to make a light and stiff bike. Compared to carbon fibre, it’s easier and quicker to work with, which makes it a cheaper option. Aluminium bikes have great power transfer thanks to the thickness of the tubes used, but this can lead to a harsh ride if suspension isn't present. This involves producing tubes with varying wall thicknesses which become thinner in the centre where strength isn't as crucial as it is at the welded ends. For example, a triple butted tube will change wall thickness three times and therefore can be made lighter without a loss in strength, but at an increased cost. Choosing an aluminium frame can provide a cost effective solution for those seeking performance on a budget. Over time the price has come down, manufacturing processes have improved and carbon fibre is now common in mountain biking. Carbon fibre is directional in its nature and can easily be moulded into any shape enabling manufacturers great freedom with tube profiles and frame shape.The stiffness to weight ratio of carbon fibre is the best of any material used for bikes, as a result, it’s the universally chosen material for bikes in the professional ranks. The downfall of carbon fibre is it can crack under excessive stress to an area such as impact from a crash or over tightening screws. Once the integrity of the carbon has failed, the material can become extremely fragile and dangerous to use. At this point it either needs to be repaired or replaced. Steel is strong and relatively inexpensive but weighs more than aluminium and carbon fibre frames. It’s also susceptible to corrosion. Before aluminium and carbon fibre, steel was the material of choice for mountain bikes, both recreational and professional. Modern, premium steels can be quite expensive and laborious to use and so lost favour with many brands choosing other materials that offered greater stiffness to weight ratios. Titanium is relatively light weight, highly durable and won't corrode like steel. Unlike carbon fibre and aluminium that can easily be molded, titanium is hard to work with which makes it an expensive material choice. Titanium has a distinct advantage over aluminium and carbon fibre in that it's incredibly resilient in the event of a crash. It takes a lot to damage titanium which is why people choose it as a lifetime luxury purchase. As well as being durable, titanium frames are comfortable and with new machining techniques the tubes can be made very thin enabling the weight to be kept low. The drivetrain consists of the cranks, chainrings, chain, cassette, derailleurs, and shifters. The drivetrain is a closed circuit which propels the bike and as you spend more money, the efficiency, durability and shifting performance increases while the weight decreases. Entry level groupsets are made up of mostly low-grade alloys which move to the higher-grade alloys, and then the highest-grade alloys, carbon fibre and titanium for the top-of-the-line options. Oddly, the trend these days is for more expensive bikes to feature fewer gears, and so bikes over a certain price will move to a 1x drivetrain (single chainring on the front) option with either 11 or 12 gears at back.Electronic drivetrains are available too. Choice of frame, wheel size, and type of riding will dictate a number of gears on the cassette, type of crankset, brakes, shifters, and derailleurs. A double crankset is more common these days and will normally have a large chain ring with 36 - 42T, and a small chain ring with 24 - 28T. The double crankset offers similar gear ratios to a triple but with fewer parts, and so is lighter and provides improved efficiency. A recent trend is the 1x or 'one-by' drivetrains whereby the front derailleur is removed and there is only a single chain ring on the front. This further reduces moving parts, reduces weight and in some cases still provides similar gear range to a double crankset. These 1x drivetrains have partly shot to success as space is made available for a dropper seatpost remote by removing the left-hand shifter (for the front derailleur). Ratios can be similar to a road bike at 11-32, or as large as 10-50 for the latest 1x SRAM Eagle 12-speed drivetrains. If a 1x drivetrain is in use, expect a larger cassette range to make up the difference. There are two common brake types available in modern mountain bikes. These are cable operated disc brakes and hydraulic disc brakes. Hydraulic systems are deemed superior as they're based on automotive technology that produces a lightweight, reliable and low maintenance system with fantastic brake control. As with most other elements of the groupsets, as the price increases so do the quality of materials used, which provides lower weight, better modulation (brake control), durability and reliability. Once the only choice, rim brakes do still exist in mountain bikes, but will only be found on the very cheapest of new bike options. Spending more money on a bike will typically (but not always) result in a reduction of weight, better suspension, improved shift quality, increased durability and greater comfort. Groupsets will have a similar progression, as will wheelsets which follow a similar path from aluminium to carbon fibre. Due to additional moving parts and technology required, suspension systems increase the price of a bike, dual-suspension bikes with large amounts of travel are generally the most expensive. Often the term 'mountain bike' is a descriptor of the bike's aesthetic. At most, bikes of this price are capable of tackling smoother, well maintained dirt trails. The frame is likely to be made from aluminium or steel and highly durable, but it's the parts that are likely not up to the task. It is unlikely to find hydraulic disc brakes at this price, they typically become available in the next price bracket. Wheels are typically both heavy and weak at this price point. A good hardtail becomes accessible at this price point, as do hydraulic disc brakes. Hydraulic brakes require less maintenance and provide more power and better modulation. You should be looking for an 8-speed cassette as a minimum, most likely paired with a double or triple crankset up front. Tyres will also improve having a better tread profile for proper trails whilst providing improved ride quality and performance. The welcome addition of suspension front and back does come at the cost of quality parts. A hardtail at the same price will typically be far lighter and have better quality componentry, but obviously sacrifices the rear suspension. So the question at this price point becomes which do you favour, a dual-suspension for greater control when it gets rough, or a hardtail with higher quality components that is going to perform better on less technical trails. Hydraulic disc brakes are almost standard as is an aluminium frame. Thru-axle forks have a larger diameter axle which improves stiffness and steering at the wheels as a result. You'll find them on bikes at the upper end of this price point, and more commonly above it. It's a great upgrade to your bike and so it's worth asking about. Bikes become distinctively split between disciplines at this stage, and you'll begin to see specific drivetrains for downhill events that don't require the range that cross-country bikes do. The decision now will be between a carbon hardtail with quality components over a dual-suspension alloy bike with lesser components. No doubt the extra comfort and support on rough trails would be welcome, but a good quality hardtail may do just as good a job depending on the type of riding you have planned. Having a 1x drivetrain reduces the amount of moving parts and the amount of potential mechanical issues as a result. It also allows manufacturers to experiment with frame design, creating bikes with greater tyre clearance and shorter chain stays which helps create a more nimble bike with better traction and control. Brakes are likely to provide a perfect balance of modulation and power for extra confidence. Gear ranges are likely to be much larger in this price range to cater for a variety of trails and make even the steepest climbs manageable. Expect a lightweight carbon fibre frame from a desirable brand, light and strong carbon fibre wheels, top-tier components, Shimano electronic drivetrain or SRAM x1 with 12 gears. Splitting performance at this price range becomes difficult as the difference between one bike and another is often minimal, so it really comes down to rider preferences or desires. If you are comfortable on the bike it will provide a more enjoyable experience and you will want to ride it more; plus comfort equals speed. Conversely, the incorrect sized bike will lead to discomfort, potential injury and a negative riding experience. If your frame is too small or too big it will be virtually impossible to make it fit you perfectly. Moving the seat position and adjusting the handlebars are all easy adjustments to make, but are band-aid solutions if the frame size is incorrect. Similarly different bike models from the same manufacturer may be different effective sizes with shared descriptions. It's always best to check with the specific manufacturer and bike model to confirm. If cross comparing between brands or models, the most consistent measurement to use is the 'effective top tube length'. The stack relates to the height of the bike measured vertically from the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube. The reach relates to the length of the bike measured horizontally from the bottom bracket to the head tube. If you know these two values you'll always be able to find the appropriate sized bike regardless of manufacturer or frame description. Bikes that are built to go downhill will generally also require the rider to have a lower seat height. The lower seat height effectively lowers a rider’s centre of gravity creating a more stable platform to work from. This is why 'dropper' seatposts are becoming so popular in mountain biking, offering the best of both worlds. It's just a given that you test drive a car and a bike should be no different. Only by taking a bike for a ride will you get a feel for it's characteristics, size, geometry and intricacies. If possible try to get it for the weekend, or at least try to simulate the type of riding you plan to do. Some brands offer demo shows, where they'll bring an entire fleet of bikes to a trail for you to test (ask your shop). Other shops may have their own demo fleets of popular models to test. Not all shops allow this though, and so you may need to buy a bike based on the advice from trusted resources. There's no point testing a hardtail mountain bike if you only intend on riding downhill. And testing a cross country bike on flat roads around the shop will tell you nothing about how it will handle single track or steep climbs. Look at it constructively and make an informed decision as to whether or not it meets your needs. If you have doubts at the time of purchase, they will only compound over time. Additional purchases in the form of specific pedals, shoes and helmet will likely be required. It's worth either putting some additional money aside for these items or trying to get them included in the price of the bike. Facility to carry water and your spares in the way of a bottle cage or hydration pack are important too. Padded cycling shorts are a great way to improve your riding comfort, with most mountain bikers preferring the casual look of 'baggy' shorts. Look for videos from the manufacturers for specifications and technology information but also look for impartial people or companies providing their opinions. Weight, comfort and safety are all key considerations. Has the bike had any issues or been recalled. What kind of rider is the bike suited to? If it's not, why not. That's not to say for a bike to be good it needs to be ridden by the pro's, but if it's good enough for the professionals, it's highly likely to be good enough for the rest of us. Magazines, websites, blogs all provide valuable information, normally in much more detail than an online video. And while you're online, look at forums or reviews for information, and be sure to check the comments section at the bottom. You can browse BikeExchange for mountain bikes, or search for your local bike shop for further assistance. Our guide on how to choose the right bike is the perfect place to start. While it's possible to spend thousands, you really don't need to break the bank to get out riding in the hills, but there are some key things you need to know to make sure you get the most for your money. It will have a weak, heavy frame made from low quality steel rather than lightweight aluminium and poor quality components that, while just about up to the task of riding towpaths or city streets, won't last very long if you take it on more challenging terrain.Spending more also means that the bike will be lighter, making getting up the hills much easier. Stretching that budget to ?500 will get you a generally well-sorted bike that's designed with mostly off-road riding in mind, while pushing the budget even higher will bring even greater weight savings, smoother gearing with more ratios and better quality components. That brings us neatly on to the next thing you need to consider. The travel on offer from the front fork will commonly vary from 80mm to 120mm, with forks getting lighter, more easily adjustable and with better bump taming performance as you start to spend more. A suspension fork really helps take the sting out of rough terrain and can help you ride with greater control and in greater comfort for longer, but at this price, the amount of travel isn't really as important as the quality of damping control it offers. Harsh, notchy, noisy and heavy forks are still common sights on the very cheapest bikes and these can often be a real disadvantage when it comes to staying in control. That might seem like a disadvantage, but cheaper suspension forks are often heavy and don't perform particularly well, though big steps are being made in recent years. A well made rigid fork will be much lighter and also less expensive, meaning more money for the manufacturer to spend elsewhere on the bike. While there are plenty of bikes out there that look like they should work, thanks to the extra complexity of building a full suspension frame, plus the extra parts needed, it's very likely that corners will have been cut in order to get a bike to a low price and you'll end up with an extremely heavy and poorly controlled machine that's more likely to hinder you than help when the going gets rough. As a rule, if you want a full suspension bike that's up to the job, you should budget at least ?1000. While there have been some good budget full suspension machines available for a bit less than that sort of money, they are few and far between and will still suffer from a significant weight penalty. That's certainly a good starting point, but we can't stress enough how important trying the bike's fit for yourself is. A quality local bike shop is a useful aid here, as they will be happy to help you with sizing as well as any other queries you might have. You'll probably appreciate why that's so important, for obvious reasons. It's possible to experiment with cockpit components, such as handlebar and stem length to get fine-tuned, but getting the basics of frame sizing right will save a lot of headaches along the line. A test ride can be invaluable here, so see if it's possible to take a bike out from the shop or consider attending a demo day. The downside is that the wheel and tyre are inevitably heavier. The aim was to split the difference and provide a wheel without all the weight of a 29er but with improved performance over a 26” wheel and it's rapidly become the most common wheel size on new mountain bikes at almost every price point. A 29” wheel is often a boon as it can help mask a lack of sensitivity in the fork as well as providing more stable handling and increased grip. Some do complain that the big wheels can feel rather dull, which is compounded by heavy wheels, so 27.5” bikes are still very popular. They're more commonly seen on more expensive bikes due to their relative newness and the cost of tyres, but they make a lot of sense on hardtails and rigid bikes, where the big rubber acts as a form of suspension. If you're going to be mostly riding in the dirt, look for an aggressively knobbly design that will dig down to grip. More lightly treaded tyres will be faster rolling on hard surfaces, so choose the right ones for the terrain you'll be riding. If that's possible, it'll usually be written on the rim and tyre but compatibility tends to be limited to more expensive bikes. Smaller sized front chainrings and a cassette with bigger sprockets at the rear means plenty of range to get up steep hills, though if you regularly ride tarmac you might find yourself spinning out sooner than you'd hope. Having a cassette with a greater number of sprockets is generally an advantage as it allows smaller steps between gears and a much smoother shift and ride. Many entry-level bikes will only have a seven-speed cassette, but eight, nine or even ten-speed blocks are preferable though increasingly costly to purchase. In practice, the latter combination would have less duplicate ratios and much-improved performance, so bear that in mind. Many modern bikes have just one chainring at the front to save weight (see below) and reduce complication, but the same overall gear range thanks to very wide ratio cassettes. That means that car-style disc brakes fitted to the hub of the wheel are infinitely preferable to cheaper rim brakes. They keep working consistently regardless of the conditions and they won't wear out your rims over time. The gold standard for disc brakes are the ones that use hydraulic fluid to operate as they require very little maintenance and offer greater power and feel, but even those that use a cable are still very useable and a great advantage over conventional rim brakes. Don't be fooled into thinking bigger is better, however, as huge saddles with masses of padding can often be more uncomfortable with prolonged use that slimmer but better-shaped ones. We asked the experts He's previously been technical editor at BikeRadar.com, editor at What Mountain Bike Magazine and also web editor at Singletrackworld.co.uk. Yes, he's been around the houses. Reviews, buying advice and news. off-road.cc is dedicated to bringing you the best coverage of all off-road riding. Our buyer's guide will tell you everything you need to know to get the right mountain bike for what you want to do, plus how much you need to spend. You'll want our buyer's guide to e-mountain bikes Those names are all self explanatory; rigid bikes don't have any form of suspension, hardtails have a suspension fork at the front but nothing at the rear and full suspension bikes have bump smoothing shocks at either end. That said, it's not always that simple, as you can buy extremely expensive rigid bikes and also very affordable full suspension machines. As a rule, hardtails tend to pedal more efficiently too, though they're not as capable in really rough terrain.