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2005 ford focus repair manuals

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2005 ford focus repair manualsAccess forty-five schematic parts-list fiches for XJ650 MAXIM 1982 (C) USA. With sixty-two products listed, the DRIVE SHAFT parts diagram contains the most products. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. Toggle Nav Check your email address is correct. This Manual is clear and written in a way so that just about anybody can follow it with ease. There are illustrations, part numbers and descriptions so that you can find the right part. Simply find the replacement part you need, print off the part number then either take it to your local dealer or search the internet to purchase the part you require with huge savings over dealer prices. No need to pay big bucks to have someone else print it for you. You can print off any page of what you need when you need it. No shipping costs, free instant downloadable manual. Click on the Instant Download Button above and you will receive this Parts Manual instantly once you have paid using our secure server. Using the correct special tool will help to prevent damage from improper tools or improvised techniques. This can also be used for the XS750, XS850 and XS1100. These preventative maintenance procedures, if followed, will insure more reliable vehicle operation and a longer service life. The need for costly overhaul work will be greatly reduced. This information applies not only to vehicles already in service, but also to new vehicles that are being prepared for sale. Any service technician performing preparation work should be familiar with this entire chapter. Especially important are the maintenance services related to emissions control. These controls not only function to ensure cleaner air but are also vital to proper engine operation and maximum performance. In the following tables of periodic maintenance, the services related to emissions control are grouped separately. Replace if necessary. Retighten as necessary. Replace gasket(s) if necessary.http://www.seepmode.es/userfiles/dspic30f-programmer-s-reference-manual.xml

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Adjust cable free play if necessary. o o Refer to page 17. O O O 2 Oil filter Replace. - O o O 3 Final gear oil Replace. Front: Replace pads if necessary. Refill to specification. Moderately repack every 16,000 km (10,000 mi). Check breather pipe for proper operation. - o o Care should be taken to not scratch or damage the gasket sealing surfaces, Adjusting pads are available in 25 thicknesses ranging from No. 200 (2.00 mm) to No. 320 (3.20 mm) in steps of 0.05 mm. The thickness of each pad is marked on the pad face that contacts the valve lifter (not the cam). Adjustment of the valve clearance is accomplished as follows: If clearance is incorrect, record the measured amount of clearance. This must be measured carefully. This slot must be positioned opposite the blade of the tappet adjusting tool before the tools is installed. Install the tappet adjusting tool as shown to hold the lifter in this depressed position. Make sure that the tool contacts the lifter only, and not the pad. To avoid cam touching the adjusting tool, turn cams as follows: (view from left side of the motorcycle) Intake: Carefully rotate CLOCKWISE. Exhaust: Carefully rotate COUNTERCLOCKWISE. There is a slot in the lifter. Use a small screwdriver or other blade and tweezers or a magnetic rod to remove the pad. Note the number on the pad. Read down on chart. Read across. Verify the correctness of this choice in the following step(s). Install the pad with the number down. This will set the pad in the lifter. If clearance is incorrect, repeat preceding steps until proper clearance is obtained. If bent or torn, replace gasket. Installed shim is Y270. Required shim is one size thinner: Y265. To prevent this, the cam chain tensioner must be adjusted regularly. This releases the cam chain tensioner with the proper tension. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed. If element is damaged, replace it. Check whether the element is seated completely against the case.http://gemmacapitalgroup.com/foto/dspic33f-family-reference-manual-i2c.xml Not attempt should be made by the dealer to change this adjustment. The warm-up is complete when engine responds normally to the throttle opening. The idle speed adjustment is made by turning only one throttle stop screw. Warm up the engine for several minutes. If the level is lower, add sufficient oil to raise it to the maximum level. The engine should be cool (at atmospheric temperature). If it is not up to this level, replenish oil. Procedure: Stop the engine. Measure compression again. If there is a higher reading than before (without oil), the piston rings may be worn or damaged. If the pressure remains the same after measuring with the oil, either or both the rings and valves may be the cause. Compression pressure should not vary more than specified value from one cylinder to any other cylinder. Replace the filter if seriously contaminated. If the diaphragm is in any way damaged, or the petcock body gasket surfaces scratched or corroded, the petcock assembly must be replaced. If there is abrasive damage to any component, the fuel tank must be drained and flushed. The brake can be adjusted by simply adjusting the free play of the brake lever. The piston in the caliper moves forward as the brake pad wears out, automatically adjusting the clearance between the brake pads and brake disc. If any pad is worn to the wear limit, replace the both pads in the caliper. If the indicator reaches to the wear limit line, replace the shoes. Check the brake fluid level and replenish when necessary observing these precautions: Water will significantly lower the boiling point and may result in vapor lock. Always clean up spilled fluid immediately. Tubeless tires are installed as standard equipment. Tire failure and personal injury may results from sudden deflation. Tube-type Wheel — Tube-type tires only Tubeless-type Wheel — Tube-type or Tubeless tires When using tube-type tires, be sure to install the proper tube also. Correct any such hazard before riding.http://www.familyreunionapp.com/family/events/boss-n225-manual Place the motorcycle on the center stand and check for cracks, bends or warpage of the wheels. Do not attempt even small repairs to the wheel. If a wheel is deformed or cracked, it must be replaced. Failure to have a wheel assembly balanced can result in poor performance, adverse handling characteristics, and shortened tire life. Failure to allow proper seating may cause tire failure resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider. If not, torque it as specified. Oil may contaminate front brakes causing loss of braking ability. Have any problem corrected before operating the motorcycle. Remove the handlebar if necessary. It is necessary to depress the spring seat and fork spring to remove the stopper ring. Remove the stopper ring by carefully prying out one end with a small screwdriver. Remove the drain screw from each outer tube. If any oil should contact the brake components it must be removed before the motorcycle is operated. Oil will cause diminished braking capacity and will damage the rubber components of the brake assembly. Replace if damaged. Reinstall the drain screw. The top nut serves as a lock nut. If necessary, repeat adjustment procedure. An unsafe condition may result so replace such cables as soon as possible. Two screws clamp the throttle housing to the handlebar. Once these two are removed, the end of the cable can be held high to pour in several drops of lubricant. With the throttle grip disassembled, coat the metal surface of the grip assembly with a suitable all-purpose grease to cut down friction. Check and adjust pivot bearings if necessary. (Refer to SWING ARM). Use only distilled water if refilling is necessary. Make sure the breather pipe is properly connected, properly routed, and is not damaged or obstructed. Failure to properly charge the battery before first use, or low electrolyte level will cause premature failure of the battery.Contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote: EXTERNAL-Flush with water. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately. Batteries produce explosive gasive gases. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away. Ventilate when charging or using in closed space. Always shield eyes when working near batteries.Wipe off any grime that might be present on the surface of the spark plug, and torque the spark plug properly. Remove the light unit assembly from the headlight rim. Remove the unit retaining ring and the defective unit. Adjust the headlight beam. Adjust vertically by moving the headlight body. When proper adjustment is determined, retighten the adjusting screw. If any fuse is blown, turn off the ignition switch and the switch in the circuit in question and install a new fuse of proper amperage. Then turn on the switches, and see if the electrical device operates.Substitution of a fuse of improper rating can cause extensive electrical system damage and possible fire. This will help prevent any harmful foreign material from getting into the engine oil. This will speed up assembly time and help insure correct reinstall-action of all the engine parts. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Stop the engine and drain the engine and middle gear oil. Lift the rear end of the duel tank and disconnect the fuel pipes and vacuum pipe from the petcock. Remove the battery. Remove the board assembly. Remove the crankcase ventilation hose at the air cleaner case. Position the disconnect lead wires so that they can be safely removed. Do not forget to remove this clamp before removing the engine. Remove the brackets. Remove the brake pedal and right side muffler bracket holding bolt and remove the muffler bracket assembly. Always use the 19 mm flats provided on the timing plate to rotate this engine. On this, it is not necessary to break the cam chain. However, it can be broken if so desired. It is easier to disassemble the engine without separating the chain. Note the location of the cam caps. The caps for the intake cam shaft are identified 1-1 through I-3. The exhaust cam caps are identified E-1 through E-3. Directional arrows are cast on each cap and point toward the clutch side. Remove the cylinder head. It may be necessary to tap the cylinder lightly to loosen it from the base gasket. Be careful not to scratch the lifter bodies or lifter bores in the cylinder head. Be very careful to identify each lifters position so that it may be returned to its original place. Take out the retainer and valve spring with tweezers. Use an oil stone to smooth the stem end. This will help prevent damage to the valve guide during valve removal. Be very careful not to mix the location of these components. Remove the rotor. Use the clutch boss holder (special tool) to hold the clutch boss and remove the lock nut and lock washer. Note the wire harness clip position. Turn over the engine and remove the lower crankcase bolts, Use a soft rubber hammer to carefully separate the crankcase. Remove the shaft and starter idle gear. The shift forks are identified by numbers cast on their sides. There should be no warpage. Correct by re-surfacing as follows. Rotate head cover several times to avoid removing too much material from one side. Take care to avoid damaging spark plug threads and valve seats. Do not use a sharp instrument. Avoid scratching the aluminum. If the warpage exceeds allowable limit, the cylinder head should be replaced with a new one. Replace the valve if any dimension exceeds the specifications in the illustration. This clearance must be within tolerances. If it exceeds the maximum limit, then replace either or both valve and guide, as necessary. If it exceeds the maximum limit, replace the valve. If it exceeds the limit, replace with an oversize valve guide. Use an oven to avoid any possibility of head warpage due to uneven heating. The valve should be lapped to the new seat. If a new valve guide has been installed the valve seat must be recut to guarantee complete sealing between the valve face and seat. Apply mechanic's bluing dye (such as Dykem) to the valve face and valve seat, apply a very small amount of fine grinding compound around the surface of the valve face insert the valve into position, and spin the valve quickly back and forth. Lift the valve, clean off all grinding compound, and check valve seat width. The valve seat and valve face will have removed bluing wherever they contacted each other. Measure the seat width with vernier calipers. It should measure approximately 1.1 mm (0.0433 in). Also, the seat should be uniform in contact area. If valve seat width varies, or if pits still exist, further cutting will be necessary. Remove just enough material to achieve a satisfactory seat. Insert the valve into the head. Rotate the valve until the valve and valve seat are evenly polished. Clean off the coarse compound, then follow the same procedure with fine compound. Clean off the compound material. Apply bluing dye to the valve face and seat and rotate the valve face for full seat contact which is indicated by a grey surface all around the valve face where the bluing has been rubbed away. There should be no leakage past the seat. If fluid leaks, disassemble and continue to lap with fine lapping compound. Clean all parts thoroughly, reassemble and check again with solvent. Repeat this procedure as often as necessary to obtain a satisfactory seal. The valve spring specifications show the basic value characteristics. This is evidenced by a gradual shortening of free length. Use a vernier caliper to measure spring free length. If the free length of any spring has decreased more than 2 mm (0.080 in) from its specification replace it. This can be checked using a valve spring compression rate gauge. Test each spring individually. Place it in the gauge and compress the spring first to the specified compressed length with the valve closed (all spring specifications can be found in the previous section, Valve Spring), then to the length with the valve open. Note the poundage indicated on the scale at each setting. Use this procedure with the outer springs, then the inner springs. If the lifter is damaged in any way, the cylinder head surface in which it rides is probably also damaged. If the damage is severe, it may be necessary to replace both the lifter and the cylinder head. The metal surface could also start to flake off or become pitted. Cam lobe wear can occur without scarring the surface. If this wear exceeds a pre-determined amount, valve timing and lift are affected. Replace the camshaft if wear exceeds the limits. Place a strip of Plastigage between camshaft and camshaft cap as illustrated (lengthwise along camshaft). Tighten the nuts with specified torque. Remove the camshaft cap and determine the clearance by measuring the width of the flattened Plastigage. If the cam chain has stretched excessively and it is difficult to keep the proper cam chain tension, the chain should be replaced. Any that shows excessive wear should be replaced. Worn dampers may indicate an improperly adjusted or worn-out cam chain. If vertical scratches are evident, the cylinder wall should be rebored or the cylinder should be replaced. If wear is excessive, compression pressure will decrease. Rebore the cylinder wall and replace the piston and piston rings. Cylinder wear should be measured at three depths with a cylinder bore gauge. (See illustration.) Measurement should be made at a point 7.5 mm (0.3 in) above the bottom edge of the piston. Place the micrometer at right angles to the piston pin. If the piston and ring have already been used, the ring must be removed and the ring groove cleaned of carbon. The ring should then be reinstalled. Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the ring and the land. If the oil control ring rails show excessive gap, all three components should be replaced. Install in connecting rod small end. Check for play. There should be no noticeable vertical play. If play exists, check connecting rod small end for wear. Replace pin and connecting rod as required. Measure the amount of crankshaft run-out on the main bearing journals with a dial gauge while rotating crankshaft. Install bearing inserts into top crankcase. Carefully, place lower crankcase onto upper crankcase. Tighten to full torque in torque sequence cast on crankcase. Measure width of Plastigage on crankshaft journals to determine clearance. The four (4) rod bearing journal numbers follow in the same sequence. Use the color code to choose the proper bearing. Apply torque evenly to both ends of the cap. While tightening, if a torque of 2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb) or more is reached, DO NOT STOP tightening until final torque is reached. If tightening is interrupted between 2.0 m-kg and 2.5 m-kg, loosen the nut to less than 2.0 m-kg and start again. Tighten to full torque specification without pausing. Look for cracks and signs of galling on edges. If damage is moderate, deburr. If severe, replace the clutch housing. If damaged replace bearing. It is not normally necessary to remove the circlip and disassemble the built-in damper unless there is serious clutch chattering. If damage is slight to moderate, deburr; if it is severe, replace clutch boss. Measure friction plate thickness at 3 or 4 points. Measure Replace clutch plate or friction plates as a set if any is faulty or beyond wear limits. Replace the springs as a set if any is less than minimum free length. Check for bending. Make sure each fork slides freely on its guide bar. If the bar is bent, replace. Check the ends that ride in the grooves in the shift cam. If they are worn or damaged, replace the shift forks. Replace as required. Replace as required. If any shaft is bent beyond specified limit, replace shaft. Look for signs of obvious heat damage (blue discoloration). Check the gear teeth for signs of pitting, galling or other extreme wear. Replace as required. Replace bent or loose clips and bent washers. Check the mating dogs for rounded edges, cracks, or missing portions. Replace as required. If severe, replace the gear. If severe, replace as necessary. If loose, remove the bolts and replace with new bolts. Stake over the end of the bolts. If rough spots are felt, replace the bearing. Use an oven to avoid distortion. Replace as required. Check for smooth cam action and excessive wear on the cam surface. If cam surface is severely worn, replace damper assembly. Replace as necessary. Remove the bearing holding nut with the 46 mm socket (special socket) and remove the bearing. Always press the inner race with care when installing. All gasket surfaces and oil seal lips must be cleaned. Always replace piston pin clips after one use. Replace distorted circlips. See the sectional view below. Apply torque evenly to both ends of the cap. If tightening is interrupted between 2.0 m-kg and 2.5 m-kg, loosen the nut to less than 2.0 m-kg and start again. Tighten to full torque specification without pausing. Oil the bearings liberaly. Also, install the chain guide into upper crankcase if removed. Tighten the bolt securely and bend the lock tabs along the bolt flats. Point the bearing locating pin toward the crankshaft and lav it on the case. Install the stopper plate and bolt and tighten securely. Install the bearing cover.Each shift fork is identified by a number cast on its side. All the numbers should face the left side and numbered 1, 2, and 3 from left. Place the two bolts without washers in the oil filter area. Refer to the tightening sequence in the illustration. Use the clutch boss holder (special tool). Tighten the screws. Do not forget to install two dowel pins. In this case make sure that the punch mark on the lever should align with the mark on the crankcase cover when pushing the lever towards the front by hand and then install the circlip. Make sure the wire harness clips are properly positioned. Do not forget to install the new gasket. The arrow on the piston must point to the front of the engine. Always install new piston pin circlips. Coat the pistons and rings well with oil. Four piston bases are required. Carefully lower the cylinder onto the pistons. Remove the ring compressors and piston bases and repeat this procedure for pistons 1 and 4. Locate the cam chain cavity cylinder seal with the tabs down. Pull the cam chain through the cylinder head as it is installed. Tie the cam chain so that it does not fall into the crankcase. Follow the illustration for the proper tightening sequence. Torque all nuts in two stages and final torque the upper nuts to the specification. Torque to the specification. Install the bolts only finger tight. The spaces between the caps and cylinder head should be equal. First, the wrench may contact the head and fracture it. Or second, a valve may become bent if the cam is turned the wrong way. With all slack removed, place the chain back on the cam sprocket. If they are not aligned, disassemble the sprockets and chain tensioner and repeat above procedures. Torque all four sprocket holding bolts to the specification. The left crankcase cover (pickup coil cover) is required a gasket. Note the lash measurement on the dial gauge. This is the shim size required. Reverse the applicable removal steps. Do not attempt to change these settings. If all other engine systems are functioning correctly, any changes will decrease performance and cause increased exhaust emissions. Usual disassembly for cleaning and inspection is not necessary to separate the carburetors. If the carburetors are separated, misalignment will result unless reassembled on a surface plate. Note the positions of the bushes. There is the matching recess in the carburetor body for the diaphragm tab. The main and pilot jets are located in the float bowl. Remove the jets if necessary. Remove the float assembly. Be careful to not lose the float valve under the float arm. Remove the float valve seat. Pay close attention to the installation of the vacuum piston diaphragm and the location of each jet. If contaminated, wash the carburetor in a petroleum-based solvent. Do not use caustic carburetor cleaning solutions. Blow out all passages and jets with compressed air. If the floats are damaged, they should be replaced. Replace these components as a set. If the piston is scratched or the diaphragm is torn, the assembly must be replaced. This procedure is necessary to obtain the correct fuel level.Note the fuel level again and compare it with the previous gauge reading. They should be equal. If not, place a suitable size of wooden piece or the like under the center stand and adjust. The level should be in the specified range. Recheck the fuel level. In this case, make sure the motorcycle is properly supported. Place the axle on a surface plate and check for bends. If bent, replace axle. Do not attempt to straighten a bent axle. Tire failure and personal injury may results from sudden deflation. If a wheel is deformed or cracked, it must be replaced. If the deflection exceeds the tolerance below, check the wheel bearings or replace the wheel as required. Rotate the wheel lightly several times and observe resting position. If the wheel is not statically balanced, it will come to reset at the same position each time. Install an appropriate balance weight at lightest position (at top). Failure to allow proper seating may cause tire failure resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider. If not, torque it as specified. Both bearings can be removed in this manner. Use a socket that matches the outside race of the bearing as a tool to drive in the bearing. Contact should be made only with the outer race. Note the following points: Use lightweight lithium soap base grease. The tension bar can be removed by removing the cotter pin and nut from the tension bar bolt. The brake rod can be removed by removing the adjuster. If the cam face is worn, replace. Lightly apply grease to the gear teeth. Do not disassemble components unless absolutely necessary. If any hydraulic connection in the system is opened, the entire system should be disassembled, drained, cleaned and then properly filled and bled upon reassembly. Do not use solvents on brake internal components. Solvents will cause seals to swell and distort. Use only clean brake fluid for cleaning. Use care with brake fluid. Brake fluid is injurious to eyes and will damage painted surfaces and plastic parts. Replace the following parts if pad replacement is required. Allow the caliper assembly to drain into a container. Never try to pry out the piston. Use care so that piston does not cause injury as it is expelled from the cylinder. Remove the cap and drain the remaining fluid. Note that the cylinder cups are installed with the larger diameter (lips) inserted first. Always replace the brake pads as a set. Replace seals every two years. Replace if scratched. Clean all passages with new brake fluid. Replace every four years or immediately if cracked, frayed, or damaged. Internal parts should be lubricated with brake fluid when installed. Replace the following parts whenever a caliper is disassembled. Use new locking washers and bend over locking tabs after bolts are tightened. If the brake fluid level is very low or brake operation is incorrect, bleed the brake system. Failure to bleed the brake system properly can result in a dangerous loss of braking performance. Install the diaphragm, being careful not to spill or overflow the reservoir. Put the other end of the tube into a container. Loosen the bleed screw. Allow the lever to travel slowly toward its limit. When the limit is reached, tighten bleed screw. Then release the lever. Repeat the bleeding procedure when the tiny bubbles in the system settle out. Disconnect the brake caliper and remove the front wheel. Place a wooden wedge or other object into the caliper assembly to keep the brake pads from falling out. Remove the front fender. It is necessary to depress the spring seat and fork spring to remove the stopper ring. Oil will cause diminished braking capacity and will damage the rubber components of the brake assembly. Pull the inner tube out of the outer tube. Pry out the dust seal and remove the spring clip over the oil seal. Pry out the oil seal, being very careful to not damage the fork tube surfaces. If the tube is scratched severely or bent, it should be replaced. If leakage is from this area, replace the seal. If this does not cure the leakage, replace the outer tube. Always install a new fork seal. Do not re-use a seal. Install the retaining clip and dust seal. Install and tighten alien bolt and washer. The main fork spring has a small coil diameter at the bottom. Replace the bearings if pitted or damaged. Replace the races when bearing balls are replaced. Spin the bearings by hand. If the bearings are not smooth in their operation in the races, replace bearing balls and races. If there is any binding or looseness, readjust the steering stem tightness. Grasp the swing arm and try to move it from side to side as shown. There should be no noticeable side play. Move the swing arm up and down as shown. The swing arm should move smoothly, without tightness, binding or rough spots that could indicate damaged bearings. Insert the 2 arms of the puller into the mouth of drive shaft housing. Tighten the 2 arms around the toothed flange of the drive shaft out of the universal joint. Pull out the drive shaft from the housing. Inspect the bearings for pitting or other damage. Make sure that the bearings roll freely. If a bearing is damaged, both bearings and both sets of inner and outer bearing races should be replaced. This causes damage to the bearing surfaces. Replace if damaged. If oil leakage is evident, replace the shock absorber. There should be no noticeable damping as the shock extends. Cable maintenance is primarily concerned with preventing deterioration through rust and weathering and providing proper lubrication to allow the cable to move freely within its housing. Cable removal is straight forward and uncomplicated. Removal will not be discussed within this section. For details of cable routing, see the cable routing diagrams at the end of this manual. Improperly routed or adjusted cables may make the motorcycle unsafe for operation. If movement is obstruced, check for fraying or kinking of the cable strands. If damage is evident, replace the cable assembly. Apply lubricant to the uppermost end of cable. Leave it in the vertical position until lubricant appears at the bottom. Allow any excess to drain and reinstall the cable. However, a semi-drying chain and cable lubricant will perform adequately under most conditions. The symptoms are quite subtle and difficult to distinguish from normal motorcycle operating noise. If there is reason to believe component(s) are damaged, remove component(s) for specific inspection. However, such noise may also be due to wheel bearings. If a test ride following reassembly indicates this condition, stop riding immediately to minimize damage to gears. It will be most noticeable at low speed and could indicate broken gear teeth. This condition could lead to locking-up of the shaft drive assembly and result in harm to a rider. At high speed this will result in vibration. The components may break, causing injury to a rider. Feel for wheel bearing damage. The apparent location of an oil leak on a dusty motorcycle may be misleading.