1997 ford explorer troubleshooting guide
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1997 ford explorer troubleshooting guidePlus you’ll get to know your vehicle better with helpful information tailored just for you. Don't forget to ask for their help in redeeming your FordPass Rewards Points. Through a collection of current features and programs, and features coming soon, FordPass will provide you with more options so you can go further than you thought possible. Note: If you do not accept the terms and conditions by June 30, 2020, your Owner Advantage Rewards balance will be forfeited. What happens if I close this site before I'm finished. Restrictions apply. See your Ford or Lincoln Dealer for complete details and qualifications. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to modify the terms of this plan at any time. Autotrader’s privacy statement and visitor agreement apply to the Ford Blue Advantage website and the collection and use of data on that site. Sounds like someone cut off the belts. Not the case, is it a fuse or timeing belt?Or somthing eis.Please run down this guide and report back. It would make a metalic sound if broken and most likely cause the engine to freeze up because it would drop against the crank pulley and get tangled. A fuse wouldn't cause the noise. Is the noise coming from under the hood. Have you checked to see if there is spark and fuel to the engine. How many miles are on the vehicle. Here is a picture of the timing chain Car would crank but engine would not turn over. Battery power was good. Could often get the car to start after a few attempts. But on five to six occasions, it wouldn't start. I would leave the car sitting for a few days some times and then it would start. I replaced the fuel pump (didn't fix it); check compression (good); spark is good. Changed gas to higher octane and did an Italian tune up. The other day, the idle pulley seized. I replaced it with a new pulley and serpentine belt. Since then, in spite of several cold, damp mornings, the car starts every time without hesitation.http://essential-people.com/USAID/downrigger-manual.xml
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While I never heard the belt slip, is there anything about changing the belt and pulley that could make a difference. Probably jinxing myself as I write this, too. Thanks! When it was warm the metal was more expanded allowing more movement. Just a guess from the info you have provided. Drove it down to get mail Monday came back parked now it won't start. Fuel is at half a tank, on level ground, have pressure at the schrader valve, sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body won't fire. Replaced the coil still won't fire. Checked 25 amp fuse 19 in side panel and 60 amp ignition fuse in box under hood on drivers side. Both are good. Battery at 12.2 volts and harness coming to coil has 11.9 volts on posts 1 and 4 with the key on but nothing in 2 and 3. Pulled a wire off of the coil and does not seem to be getting any fire. Replaced fuel filter about a year ago when similar problem arose but I got it to fire with the starter fluid then. All other accessories work. Lights blinkers cdplayer power windows door wipers blower motor ac. So I don't know if it could be computer related. Unless the signal coming to the coil is messed up. Any help would be most appreciated. Or I may have overlooked another fuse somewhere or something up on the intake. Replaced the thermostat about three weeks ago and had the top plastic cover off of the throttle body assy but dont know of any other things I could have left unplugged under there. Not that much to unhook to replace the thermostat. Thanks Jeff If no spark, then try replacing the PCM power relay. You should be able to switch the relay with another relay in the box. I have had 2 of these relays fail in my Explorer.http://detaycopymatbaa.com/userfiles/downrigger-electric-vs-manual.xml Good luck Thanks Jeff The fuse 19 I checked was inside the drivers door panel on the left side of the dash 25 amp for ignition circuit fuse was fine and the 60 amp under the cover where the three pcm's are was also ok Nothing up there seems to be unhooked so that would just about eliminate that question checked everything around the map sensor tubes hoses electrical connections they all seem fine. Alternator wires are fine and tight. Some times all a guy needs to totally fix a problem is a well placed grenade. Haha. Not there yet, but it is paid for. Jeff Is the Batt wire on the coil live. If not try a jumper wire to pos post. If it runs the ignition switch is faulty. Even checked fuel pump reset switch up under passengers side kick panel. No reset needed. Unhooked the positive wire on the battery for an hour to see if the thing might reset and clear the bug. Still no luck. Have no idea what this could be. About ready to start piecing it out. If I can't get it to fire soon.Crankshaft sensor We put 2 gallons in the tank, but it won't restart on repeated attempts. On other cars, after a few seconds of engaging the starter, it will fire off. Want to know if it is something simple that can be taken care of without having the vehicle towed. Needless to say, my son is now looking for a new car. Motor started earlier. It is a very good toll. Just follow this link; I have to Start my Explorer in the Nutreal gear. Some people of my family thinks its frozen up inside the tranmission and others think I need to get look at. I have no Idea were to start. Or it just wont start in park. If it wont start in park with that mileage it is most likely the neutral safety switch located on transmission gear selection shaft. This is outside the transmission. I have start the vechile in Neutral. It was in park when I start the vechile this morning and I went to grocery store and when I came out I couldn't start me vechile. As I was trying to figure out what maybe be wrong My father told me that I sould be able start the vechile Neutral gear. So I did so and it start, but I can't get my Lever Shifter to engage park. My father said it maybe something that got lose in transmisson. I just don't know so I was trying find someone that now the Explorers better then I or my father. Jeremy I Turn Off The Car. Then When Back To Restart It. It Will Turn Over But Would Not Start.It Will Not Start. The Starter Turns But It Will Not Start. I Am Having Issues With My Explorer. Once The Weather Starts Getting Warmer Say Over 75 Degrees It Will Not Start. I Can Usually Go Out. My Suv Would Not Start Because Fuel Pump Was Not Coming On. Replaced Fuel Pump And Now It Will Not Come On. Friend with me checked fuses seemed okay. Turned key to on crossed starter, engine turned over but would not start. He suggested either ignition switch bad or a neutral switch. Any ideas and to figure out if ignition switch or neutral switch. Can one or other be shorted out or crossed to narrow down problem, or does it sound like something else. Thanks guys.Here is a guide that can help you confirm the failure and get the truck fixed: I would also check the fuses. Here is a guide for that and the starter and fuse panel diagrams (below). Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. Cheers I am a firefighter and little busy. Wind up going to be Tuesday before I get to check out those fuses and relays. This car is my sons' and I am letting him use my extra vehicle temporarily. Until we get his figured out. Reply in a day or so. Thanks Where do I go from here. Hmac300, please continue to advise. I have not looked where it is. Try switching one of the relays that is like that see if that cures it. Then you know what it is. Going to replace ignition switch. Got bottom cover off see switch unplugged harness from it, but cannot figure out, switch has two push in clips to get it to release.http://persikovod.com/images/consumer-cellular-manual.pdf Good news is one is on bottom that I can get to, bad news other clip is on top of switch and that I cannot figure out how to get to. Help. I am also sending a picture of multi-function switch in case you need to take that out to get the ignition out. The multi function is turn signal, wiper, etc. Finally got switch out, had to break it. Put new one in and guess what, it still will not crank. Okay what is next? I am guessing neutral switch and I read if I can find it, it can be jumped. What is the next step boss? Problem was the PATS. Some how chip in key became corrupted and wiped out part of the pats programming. My son only received one key when he bought it, so Ford dealership hooked up to diagnostic computer and it went crazy. They were able to fresh flash computer and program a new key, and tossed the other to the side for unlocking only. Service manager has thirty five years under his belt and has only came across this type of problem.Message center on dash says engine service fail mode what ever that means any ideas? If so this guide will help you reset the system: We should run the codes as well. Please run down these guides and report back. Replaced starter and battery three months ago and replaced key and had reprogrammed. So engine will not turn over but has power. Any idea what it could be? First check fuses 12, 23 in the under hood junction box and fuse 29 in the left side fuse box under the dash. Use a test light and verify power at both sides of the fuse. Next check the starter relay in the under hood junction box. With the test light you should have battery voltage at pin 30, When the key is turned to start with the shifter in park or neutral you should now have battery voltage at two pins, 30 and 85. If you only have power at the original pin 30 the transmission switch is faulty. A quick check might help. Take a jumper wire and use it to jump between pins 30 and 87 in the starter relay socket. Make sure you have the correct pins, If the engine turns over now the battery cables, and fuse 12 is good. Cheers, Ken I checked all the fuses under the hood and relays tested them all. They are fine. I bought a brand new battery, still nothing. Lights, radio, blower etc, all work with the key on so I assume no ignition switch problem. I thought it might a security system issue. Tried 3 different methods to reset it (manually unlocking door, negative terminal off for 30 minutes and turning key for 10 minutes (did that 3 times, nothing worked). When I turn the key on I can barely hear a 'click' near the interior fuse box but that is all. I am trying one last method for the security system; disconnect the battery for 48 hours. This is a great SUV. It never has failed to start before. Shut it off one day and then won't start back. What is the battery voltage. How did you test the relays. Did you verify powers and ground controls especially for the starter relay. I attached a diagram for you of the starting system. Remove the relay and test for one pin for power with the key on. Then turn the key to start and see if there is another pin that is hot. Let me know the results. Roy Got a jump and it fired right up. The next morning the car would not start. No dash lights came on and the interior lights were very dim. No crank no nothing. We replaced the starter because the battery tested fine and still nothing. If you could do a quick check for me. Here is a link on how to use a DMM if you are not familiar with how to use one below: Please get back to us with what you are able to find out. Thanks, Alex 2CarPros Now could you please check fuses 12 and 23 in the Battery Junction Box of your vehicle. Please go through these guides and check the fuses and get back to us with what you find out. We can go from there. Here is a link below, if needed, on how to check a fuse: Thanks, Alex 2CarPros Why Is My Engine Not Cranking. So I Have A 1998 Ford Explorer That Has 102,000 Miles On It. I Haven't Had Any Problems With It Other Than Replacing The Battery About.My 93 Explorer Will Not Start Infact It Doesn't Crank At All. I Hear The Fuel Pump When I Turn The Key But Nothing Else. This Is The Second Time This Has Happened To Me. Car Stalls Repeatedly When Driving, Especially When It Is Warm. But Lately It Just Does It Any Time. Would Appreciate Any Hints On What. What would be causing this to happen?When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds. Please run down these guides and report back. I have to start with a couple simple questions. Is the spark to the plugs a good hot blue snapping park or is it more orange or white. Also, I understand you are getting fuel, but have you checked fuel pump pressure at the fuel rail. It could be too low or the regulator may be allowing all the fuel to return to the fuel tank. Let me know. Joe It is a video and directions. Check it and let me know what you find. NOTE: You will need a gauge. Most parts stores will lend or rent them to you. Joe I have full power since all lights are one and radio just will not kick over. I will then jump the car and it will start right up. THis happend every day or sometimes it will not happen for 2 days. I have replaced the battery and had a dull tune up and replaced the fuel filter which was bad. Battery replaced 2 months ago and had the alternator checked 2 times and it read fine. And I have been told it's not running on all cylinders. I just had the heads redone do to a blown head casket. Also, it sounds like a bad miss. Have you mentioned it to the shop that did the work and was it running this way when you first picked it up. Let me know. Joe After putting it back together it will not start. Can you give me any direction. Check for spark and fuel to the engine. Is this a fuel pump or could it be something else? Thanks A bad engine coolant sensor, MAF or some other sensors can cause the problem as well. If the MIL is inicating, get a scan done to retrieve the trouble code to find out if it is related to the difficult starting Worked for a few months but now it will not start. Fuel pressure is my first check, see if it has at least 45 lbs. If not, you need to check the inertia switch, wiring and relay. Roy I would hate to take it in and pay an arm and a leg if it's something I can do at home. Where can I find the inertia switch? Rf lower kick panel is the location of the inertia switch Roy Engine turns over and will run for about 5 seconds with gasoline squirted into intake manifold. Checked fuses and relays for fuel pump and PCM. Replaced fuel pump because I couldn't hear it come on ----but old one was working when connected to 12 volts. New pump runs for about 2-3 seconds with key on, engine off. Also replaced fuel filter and double checked orientation of filter. Fuel pressure at fuel rail is less than 10 psi. With fuel line disconnected, get 3-4 tbsp of fuel into a cup with starter turning engine. ?Bad fuel pressure regulator. Is this the same as fuel pressure pulsation dampener on this car. Is it possible that fuel line is plugged with debris or sediment from sitting. Appreciate any help. Thanks. I Turn Off The Car. Then When Back To Restart It. It Will Turn Over But Would Not Start. Sounds Like Someone Cut Off The Belts. It Will Not Start. The Starter Turns But It Will Not Start. Once started, it chugs. Turn it off and get it to start again and seems to run fine after it warms up. Once in awhile if I go before it is warm, it seems like there is a weird shift in tranny. It will go into next gear, then back down and back into that gear again. When it shifts that way, it is immediate that it goes in, drops back to lower gear and back into higher gear. There is no lack of shifting either way. No grinding or sincro issues that I can hear. I didn't have the starting or tranny issue until a week ago when I had my thermostat housing and Temp sensors replaced. What could they have hit and knocked loose, or broke in the process of loosening intake to get to sensors and therm housing. They ripped it in the process and never said a word about taping it up. That is the reason I replaced it. My check engine light has been on since therm housing repair. I went to Advance Auto parts and had them check the code, and one of the sensors that I just paid to replace is bad, or the wrong one. No other code is being thrown. At this point, I will replace that sensor myself so this dingbat mechanic doesn't cause anymore damage to my truck.Is said Temperature send sensor bad. When I picked my truck up, it was dead set on 500, and has idled there once warm since. They actually replaced that one 2 times. Would it make that much difference in how my truck starts. Could and why would that lessen my idle rpms? Will let you know. Get another scan done and get the exact trouble code for me. Since parts had beed replaced, codes might change if other problems are causing it. It is P0117. Coolant temp sensor 1 circuit. I had them show me the part that would be replaced, and it is one of the sensors that was replaced less than 2 weeks ago, but not the one that was replaced 2 times. This is the one that goes to the computer I assume because of the issues with the truck. How does one go about replacing this without ripping it all apart. I would have to loosen the intake manifold, the upper radiator hose, the air intake, and probably the top of the therm housing. Is there an easier way? When it start the rpm reach 1500-2000 but suddenly the engine will shut off. There is no leak, I change the fuel filter, clean the throttle body and IAC valve. Please help me guys. Thanks Are there any trouble codes? Above links should be helpful. ECT, crank or cam angle sensors and any others related to engine operations can cause it. Guessing does not work and what you need to do is to find out what is missing causing the difficult or non-starting to narrow down the scope of fault list. Just now I start it but 2-3 times I try an then thier is a black smoke and the idle is up and down. Run a while longer and see if idling stabilises. Then the engine will shut off maybe because of the rich mixture. So im goin to buy ECT and replace it. My Driveway Has A Slant To It. If The Car Is Pulled Into. Acts Like It Has A Dead Battery Sometime. In The Morning When My Truck Has Been Sitting For A While, It. When You Try To Give It Gas It. My battery is fully charged. Someone told me it may be the solenoid, but I don't know where it is even located. Do you think they are right. Where is the solenoid located. What is the best way to check the solenoid?There is a starter relay though check out the diagrams below to see how the system is wired and where the relay is. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens. Cheers Here is a guide that shows the lower solenoid: Check out the diagrams (below) for both locations. Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed. Cheers, Ken I have attached a picture and circled the solenoid in red. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros. Danny- Is it difficult to replace? Thanks. For replacement procedures for your starter, read below: REMOVAL: Disconnect the negative battery cable. Properly raise and support the vehicle. Tag and disconnect the wiring at the starter. WARNING: When detaching the hard-shell connector at the S-terminal, grasp the plastic shell to pull it off. Do not pull on the wire itself. Ensure to pull the connector straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S-terminal. If any part of the connector is damaged, replace the damaged component. Remove the starter mounting bolts and remove the starter INSTALLATION: Position the starter motor against the engine and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 15-19 ft. Lbs. (21-27 Nm). Install the starter solenoid connector by pushing it straight on. Ensure that the connector locks in position with a notable click. Install the starter cable nut to the starter solenoid B-terminal. Tighten the nut to 80-123 inch lbs. (9-14 Nm). Connect any remaining wiring to the starter motor. Lower the vehicle. Connect the negative battery cable. Thanks for using 2CarPros. Com! Was told between battery and fuse box but nothing there and was also told attached to firewall by battery. What it is the problem you are having. Let me know and I will do my best to help you. Dan If your vehicle is an automatic the range selector switch also acts as the neutral safety switch that keeps the engine to only starting in the park and neutral positions, try shifting to neutral and trying to start it and then if that does not work try shifting back to park and keep slight pressure on the park lever to be sure it is in park and try again. If your vehicle has a standard transmission, there is a clutch safety switch activated by the clutch pedal and it may be failing. I am sorry I miss understood you earlier. There is a relay that is also called a solenoid, it has two large posts and two smaller posts for wires, it is located near your battery on the inner fender on your vehicle. It is activated by the ignition switch and sends power to the starter. This part is replaceable separate from starter. There is also a part on the starter (the smaller of the two round components of a starter) It controls the power to the starter (in simple terms) This is the solenoid I thought your were talking about and is not normally serviced separately. If possible check with your local for dealer on that recall. Hope this helps, Dan Now as far as the one by the batter and fender there is not one. Someone told me that they might have bypassed that one and the only one I may have is the one attached to the started itself. I've replaced it twice thinking I bought a bad one the first time. But still isn't starting. And it happened over night, nothing leading up to it. Ford uses a few different circuit configurations. Some have the solenoid on the starter itself with a separate starter relay under the hood. Some use their old fender-mounted solenoid as a starter relay on the fender. Some older versions use the fender-mounted relay as the solenoid itself with nothing else on the starter. I think by '96 they finally gave up on that miserable design. If you have the large solenoid on the inner fender and it is clicking, check for loose or dirty connections on it, the battery, and the starter itself. If the solenoid is not clicking, the neutral safety switch is the main suspect. Here again the engineers couldn't make up their mind which circuit to use so there's three possibilities.Haven't Had Any Previous Related Problems Until Today. Tried To Start The Truck And Got Nothing But A Click. Could It Be The Relay Fuse. Any idea why? Or another solution for turning my lights out without removing the fuse The lights should go out. There are Or, you can swap a relay Theft light is I change spark plugs plug wires last year so no I had new plugs and wires and a new fuel filter put on. It Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. For example, notice when or how the problem occurs: Does it happen when the engine is cold or hot. Can you hear the engine turning. Is the starter turning or just making a click sound. Below are some typical starting problem conditions and possible systems and components involved. Engine Fails to Fire Up Always start with the obvious. Make sure you have fuel in the tank; maybe the fuel gauge has stopped working. After that, turn on the headlights. They should be bright, a quick and easy way to check for battery power. Then check for faulty components in the fuel and ignition systems. If you have not changed it in the past 12 months or so, the fuel filter might be clogged, obstructing the flow of gas; after years of service, the fuel pump might have failed as well. Examine the ignition system; look for broken, loose or disconnected spark plug wires or a failed ignition coil. Check the timing chain. A worn-out or defective chain will fail to synchronize cylinders and valves, making the engine unable to operate. Finally, check cylinder compression. Engine Fails to Start When Cold If your engine seems to give you trouble only when cold, there are some specific components to look at. Using a voltmeter, check for battery power. Make sure fuel is reaching the injections and the fuel filter is not clogged. Also, check the condition and gap of the spark plugs--clean and recalibrate the plugs if necessary. Then troubleshoot the engine coolant temperature sensor and engine control system. Engine Fails to Start When Hot If the starting system only gives you trouble when the engine is hot.In rare cases, the fuel system may be experiencing vapor lock. This is caused by engine heat transferring to the fuel and creating bubbles. You will notice the engine stalls, lacks power or it is hard to start or does not start at all. Inspect the feed and return lines and see if any are touching a hot engine part. Starter Motor Operates Sometimes, the starter motor will operate but the engine will not turn. The problem might be in the starter motor itself. The most common problem is a worn or broken starter pinion or drive plate. Remove the motor for inspection. Starter Motor Will Not Crank the Engine Maybe the starter motor itself does not turn. Check that the battery terminals are tight and clean. Then check the battery charge. When attempting to start the engine, make sure the transmission is in Park (P) or Neutral (N). Also, check the starting circuit for broken, loose or disconnected wires and cables from the battery to the starter solenoid, the ignition switch and the starter motor. Next, check components in the starting system like solenoid, ignition switch and starter motor. It is possible the pinion on the motor is jammed. Remove the starter motor. Finally, check the Transmission Range (TR) sensor. The sensor may need adjustment or replacement. References Ford Explorer 1991 through 2001 Haynes Repair Manual; Jay Storer and John H. Haynes; 2005 Modern Automotive Technology; James E. Duffy; 2003 Writer Bio Since 2003 Dan Ferrell has contributed general and consumer-oriented news to television and the Web. His work has appeared in Texas, New Mexico and Miami and on various websites. Ferrell is a certified automation and control technician from the Advanced Technology Center in El Paso, Texas. More Articles My Nissan Versa Won't Start My Hyundai Sonata Won't Start My KIA Sorento Won't Start My Mini Cooper Won't Start How to Diagnose a Saturn Ignition Key. How to Troubleshoot a Yamaha Timberwolf How to Fix a Jeep Liberty That. However, it is a good idea to start with the easier and more common causes such as an empty fuel tank and low battery charge. And use common sense. For example, if your Explorer was serviced recently, then the associated components are a good place to start. Step 1 Make sure that the tank contains enough fuel to start the engine. Step 2 Read the battery voltage using a voltmeter and make sure that it has enough charge to operate the starter motor. Your battery should have close to 12.6 volts with the engine off. Step 3 Examine the connections between the battery and the starter and make sure that they are tight and clean. Loose or dirty connections will prevent proper current flow. Step 4 Inspect the fuel system and verify that fuel is reaching the fuel injectors. If possible, pull one of the fuel injectors and check for fuel spray; also, you may use a nod light connected to an injector connector and make sure that the vehicle computer is sending electrical pulses. If there is no fuel reaching the engine but the injector is receiving voltage, then check the fuel filter for clogs. If the filter is more than a year old, then consider replacing it. Troubleshoot the fuel pump if necessary. Step 5 Check for spark in the ignition system. Pull one of the spark plug wires, connect a spark tester to the wire and ground it to the engine. A bright blue spark should jump the tester gap as you crank the engine. Otherwise, you might have a problem in the ignition system. Troubleshoot the spark plug wires, ignition coil and the rest of the ignition system if necessary. Step 6 Measure the spark plugs' gap with a wire feeler gauge, if you installed new plugs or they are two or more years old. Step 7 Examine the timing chain. A worn out or jumped chain will fail to synchronize pistons and valves and prevent the engine from starting.