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yamaha xj650lj seca xj650lj turbo full service repair manual

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yamaha xj650lj seca xj650lj turbo full service repair manualUsing the correct special tool will help to prevent damage from improper tools or improvised techniques. This can also be used for the XS750, XS850 and XS1100. The cross-section area of these subintake port is smaller than that of main intake ports. The smaller ports enter the main ports just above the intake valve seat and at such an angle that their charge is directed around the walls of the cylinder; this results in a swirling effect as the mixture is compressed into the combustion chamber. Since only one cylinder is on the intake stroke at a time, the subintake port for that cylinder draws mixture from the other three carburetors and subintake ports. When the piston is moving down and the intake valve opens, a vacuum is created in the main and subintake ports. But since the area of the subintake port is so much smaller, the mixture moves faster through it than through the main intake port. The charge from the subintake port, therefore, blasts around the wall of the cylinder, swirling the entire intake charge. This results in more complete burning of the air-fuel mixture. Yamaha's system, however, provides fresh air directly from the air cleaner to the surge tank through a reed-valve-controlled passage; the engine can build speed freely until the turbo unit resumes its pressurizing effect and closes the reed valve. Another notable feature in the surge tank is a poppet-type relief valve that backs up the wastegate in preventing excess boost in the intake side. The turbo unit itself, a Mitsubishi TC03-O6A, is the world's smallest: the turbine diameter is only 39 mm, and it can spin safely up to 210,000 rpm. The shaft linking the turbine to the intake compressor is pressure-lubricated from the crankshaft's main oil gallery; an additional scavenging pump retrieves the oil from the turbo unit, ensuring a constant, adequate flow. A wastegate in the manifold bleeds off excess exhaust pressure to prevent too much boost in the intake.http://cribpointonline.org/cribpointonline/userimages/dlo-transpod-fm-transmitter-manual.xml

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The left-side muffler receives the exhaust gas from the turbo unit, and the right-side muffler handles excess from the wastegate. Indeed, from their inception to their final rendering, form was designated secondary to function. In designing a fairing; two of the most important aerodynamic factors are wind resistance and front wheel lift force. Through extensive wind-tunnel testing, Yamaha engineers crafted a fairing for the Seca Turbo which significantly reduces these effects. Every component down to the rear-view mirrors was designed with aerodynamic efficiency in mind. The coefficient of drag, a measurement of wind resistance, is among the lowest in the world for a road machine. A reduction of about 10 was achieved in front wheel lift force over a similar machine not equipped with a fairing. This system uses the power of the exhaust gases, normally wasted, to spin a turbine which supercharges the intake of the air fuel mixture. The system goes far beyond the unrefined, bolt-on turbochargers offered by accessory companies. The Yamaha Turbo System is a fully integrated combination of sophisticated engineering features which virtually eliminates the problems of conventional turbocharging while enhancing its advantages. The result is a lightweight, nimble-handling machine which performs like a superbike with an engine twice as large. Yamaha is proud to rewrite the books on high-performance motorcycling! These preventative maintenance procedures, if followed, will insure more reliable vehicle operation and a longer service life. The need for costly overhaul work will be greatly reduced. This information applies not only to vehicles already in service, but also to new vehicles that are being prepared for sale. Any service technician performing preparation work should be familiar with this entire chapter. Some maintenance procedures require that only part of the fairing assembly be removed.http://www.stroysogl.ru/uploads/fck/dlo_tunestik_manual.xml Yamaha recommends, however, that the entire fairing assembly be removed whenever the motorcycle is serviced. This will ensure that the fairing is not damaged or unnecessarily marred. Then, turn it clockwise and pull the lever backward. Grasp the panels on either side where the panels are joined to the frame. Pull the male connectors out; then pull the rear of the panels up. Especially important are the maintenance services These controls not only function to ensure cleaner air but are also vital to proper engine operation and maximum performance. In the following tables of periodic maintenance, the services related to emissions control are grouped separately. Replace if necessary. Replace if necessary. Replace gasket(s) if necessary. Adjust cable free play if necessary. Observe the following service hints to ensure that the oil will meet the demands placed on it by the engine. Keep the oil level at the specified level. Moderately repack every 16,000 km (10,000 mi) Moderately repack every 16,000 km (10.000 mil Replace if necessary. Check breather pipe for proper operation. Replace at initial 13.000 km (8,000 mi) and thereafter every 16,000 km (10,000 mi) See page 35. Care should be taken to not scratch or damage the gasket sealing surfaces. Adjusting pads are available in 25 thicknesses ranging from No. 200 (2.000 mm) to No. 320 (3.20 mm) in steps of 0.05 mm. The thickness of each pad is marked on the pad face that contacts of the valve lifter (not the cam). Adjustment of the valve clearance is accomplished as follows: If clearance is incorrect, record the measured amount of clearance. This must be measured carefully. This slot must be positioned opposite the blades of the tappet adjusting tool before the tools is installed. Install the tappet adjusting tool as shown to hold the lifter in this depressed position. Make sure that the tool contacts the lifter only, and not the pad. To avoid cam touching the adjusting tool, turn cams as follows: (view from left side of the motorcycle) There is a slot in the lifter. Use a smaller screwdriver or other blade and a magnetic rod to remove the pad. Note the number on the pad. Read down on chart. Read across. Verify the correctness of this choice in the following step(s). Install the pad with the number down. This will set the pad in the lifter. If clearance is incorrect, repeat preceding steps until proper clearance is obtained. If bent or torn, replace gasket. This was developed by the XJ Owners' Group. Installed shim is Y270. Required shim is one size thinner: Y265. Wipe off any grime that might be present on the surface of the spark plug, and torque the spark plug properly. No adjustment is necessary. Torque the end plug to the specification. Use a tachometer to check the engine speed. Stationary pointer Then, pull the air filter case holding plate backward. If element is damaged, replace it. Check whether the element is seated completely against the case. Fuel will be pumped out, creating a fjre hazard. No attempt should be made by the dealer to change this adjustment. The warm-up is complete when the engine responds normally to the throttle opening. If it is not, adjust the idle speed with the throttle stop screw. Adjust if necessary. The idle speed adjustment is made by turning only one throttle stop screw. Warm up the engine for several minutes. If the level is lower, add sufficient oil to raise it to the maximum level. Refer to ELECTRICAL for corrective action. The engine should be cool (at atmospheric temperature). If it is not up to this level, replenish oil. Do not allow the gear oil to contact the tire and wheel. If desired, an SAE 80W90 hypoid gear oil may be used for all conditions. Procedure: Stop the engine. Measure compression again. If there is a higher reading than before (without oil), the piston rings may be worn or damaged.http://www.costarica4u.com/images/compaq-tft-8030-service-manual.pdf If the pressure remains the same after measuring with the oil, either or both the rings and valves may be the cause. Compression pressure should not vary more than the specified value from one cylinder another. Replace the filter if srious-ly contaminated. If the diaphragm is in any way damaged, or the petcock body gasket surfaces scratched or corroded, the petcock assembly must be replaced. If there is abrasive damage to any component, the fuel tank must be drained and flushed. The brake can be adjusted by simply adjusting the free play of the brake lever. The piston in the caliper moves forward as the brake pad wears out, automatically adjusting the clearance between the brake pads and brake disc. If any pad is worn to the wear limit, replace both pads in the caliper. If the indicator reaches to the wear limit line, replace the shoes. Check the brake fluid level and replenish when necessary, observing these precautions: Water will significantly lower the boiling point and may result in vapor lock. Always clean up spilled fluid immediately. To adjust, hold the switch body with the hand so it does not rotate and turn the adjusting nut. Proper adjustment is achieved when the brake light comes on slightly before the brake begins to take effect. Tubeless tires are installed as standard equipment. Tire failure and personal injury may result from sudden deflation. Correct any such hazard before riding. Place the motorcycle on its centerstand and check for cracks, bends, or warpage of the wheels. Do not attempt even small repairs to the wheel. If a wheel is deformed or cracked, it must be replaced. Failure to have a wheel assembly balanced can result in poor performance, adverse handling characteristics, and shortened tire life. Failure to allow proper seating may cause tire failure, resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider. If not, torque it as specified. This makes the work easier without the fairing being damaged. Oil can contaminate front brakes causing loss of braking power. Have any problem corrected before operating the motorcycle. 2. Securely support the motorcycle so there is no danger of it falling over. Remove the drain screw from each outer tube. If any oil should contact the brake components, it must be removed before the motorcycle is operated. Oil will cause diminished braking capacity and will damage the rubber components of the brake assembly. Replace if damaged. Reinstall the drain screw. Then, tighten the pinch bolts. It will result in an air leakage. If the air pressure is increased, the suspension becomes stiffer and if decreased, it becomes softer. If the air pressure is increased, the suspension becomes stiffer, and if decreased, it becomes softer, Uneven adjustment will cause an improper riding position. The top nut serves as a locknut. If necessary, repeat adjustment procedure. An unsafe condition may result, so replace such cables as soon as possible. Two screws clamp the throttle housing to the handlebar. Once these two are removed, the end of the cable can be held high to pour in several drops of lubricant. With the throttle grip disassembled, coat the metal surface of the grip assembly with a suitable all-purpose grease to cut down friction. Check and adjust pivot bearings if necessary. Use only distilled water if refilling is necessary. Make sure the breather pipe is properly connected, properly routed, and is not damaged or obstructed. Failure to properly charge the battery before first use or a low electrolyte level will cause premature failure of the battery. It contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, or clothing. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg, or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away. Ventilate when charging or using in closed space. Always shield eyes when working near batteries.The battery fluid should be checked at least once a month. Use only distilled water if refilling is necessary. Completely recharge the battery before reusing. Then, reinstall the seat. If the headlight bulb burns out, replace the bulb as follows: Also keep it free from oil stains; otherwise, the transparency of the glass, life of the bulb, and luminous flux will be adversely affected. If the glass is oil stained, thoroughly clean it with a cloth moistened with alcohol or lacquer thinner. Do not touch the bulb until it cools down. If the fuse immediately blows again, find the cause in the circuit in question. Substitution of a fuse of improper rating can cause extensive electrical system damage and possible fire. As the compressor rotor turns, in excess of 100,000 rpm, it moves air by centrifugal force. Because of the design, the air being sent to the carburetors slows from its initial velocity, but because of the decreasing volume of the housing, the air pressure increase. The rotating turbine, which is connected to the compressor, turns the compressor. The turbine rotor is constructed of a ultra heat-resistant alloy, which is a precision casting that can withstand high-speed operation at extreme temperatures. The turbine housing is shaped like a snail and is called a scroll casing. This design directs the exhaust gases into the turbine rotor blades. Because the turbine housing, like the turbine rotor, is subjected to high temperatures, resisting distortion and oxidation due to extremely high temperatures. To ensure that the oil is not stressed any more than necessary, the bearing housing has special seals that separate the exhaust gas driving the turbine from the lubricating oil. This reduces the oil's viscosity, making it ineffective in absorbing the vibrations from the floating bearing. To guard against these high temperatures, the rear of the turbine is covered with a backing plate so that an air chamber is formed between the backing plate and the housing, thus serving as a heat insulator. The ring is forced against the center bearing housing by its own tension so that it does not turn with the shaft; the shaft rotates while keeping full contact with the ring. But when the engine speed increases, the turbine wheel spins faster, thus increasing the boost pressure. As engine rpms increase, so does boost pressure, further increasing power. If the boost pressure is not controlled, it will increase to the point where the engine will be damaged. To control boost pressure, a valve is used through which exhaust gas is routed to bypass the turbine. Boost pressure is thus controlled. The wastegate limits the boost pressure supplied to the engine. When the boost pressure exerted on the chamber goes beyond the preset level, it overcomes the spring force and pushes the diaphragm and linkage. This opens the wastegate valve to permit the exhaust gas to flow to the right-hand muffler. As a result, the amount of exhaust gas exerted on the turbine wheel is reduced, and thus the speed of both turbine and compressor wheels is slowed down. The result is a decrease in the boost. When the boost pressure is below 53.2 kPa (400mmHg, 15.7 inHg), all exhaust gases are channeled through the turbine vanes. These systems work together to Increase the performance and efficiency of the engine. Due to the precision nature of many components in the turbo system, it is imperative that the fuel tank, fuel filters and carburetors be completely free of rust, fuel residue and other contaminants. This system must be free of pressure leaks to perform its function properly. The exhaust joints should be tight to prevent exhaust pressure leakage, and the turbocharger must function properly. By using customer information, a comprehensive test ride and a logical troubleshooting procedure, you should be able to locate and correct the problem quickly and easily. Fuel overflow can also be caused by a clogged petcock filter. Also be certain that the carburetors are properly cleaned, that the needle valves seal properly, and that the float levels are properly set. Gasoline Is extremely flammable. To avoid severe injury, do not allow open flames, sparks, cigarettes, or any other sources of Ignition near the area In which you are working. It contaminants are present In the fuel flowing into the drain pan with the petcock In the reserve position, the entire fuel system Is most likely contaminated and will need to be clean. If the fuel flow improves, clean or replace the fuel cap If the flow did not improve the petcock, petcock litters, and the fuel tank will need to be cleaned thoroughly. Refer to Bulletin M84-016. Clean if necessary. If contaminants are present in this filter a lean condition could occur, especially under boost conditions. The engine should not turn over, but the fuel pump should operate and pump fuel. If it does not pump enough fuel in the test the fuel pump should be replaced. Run both of these fuel lines into a drain pan. Recheck all lines to make sure they are properly connected to avoid fuel leakage. No fuel should flow when the engine is not running. Again, no fuel should flow when the engine is not running. If fuel flows out of the check valve, then the check valve is defective and should be replaced. The same is true if the fuel leaks from the pressure regulator: If It leaks, replace It. The fuel pump should operate and pump fuel but the engine should not turn over. If the pressure regulator does allow fuel to flow, then It should be replaced. Push the starter button as before and pump fuel into the container for exactly 15 seconds. The amount of fuel pumped should be at least 300ca If It is less, replace the check valve. The output through the pressure regulator outlet hose should also be at least 300cc for 15 seconds of pumping. If it Is less, replace the pressure regulator. Usually, a problem here is found by a quick visual inspection of the system's components. It is usually helpful to remove the exhaust clamp bolts and coat the threads with anti-seize compound. This allows better tightening and helps prevent thread seizure or stripping. Also replace any gaskets that are damaged or worn. The connections of these ducts must be tight to prevent air pressure leaks, and to prevent foreign material from entering the compressor or the engine These deposits will need to be scraped clean to allow normal closing. To test for this condition, rev the engine to 4.000 rpm and check for exhaust gas exiting the right muffler. If there Is, then the wastegate is stuck open. The best method of checking wastegate actuator movement is to locate the 10mm hex nut on the top of the turbocharger and turn the nut with a wrench. Only a small space is available to work In, but sufficient movement can be made to move the actuator In and out. Turbocharger removal should not be necessary unless the actuator is badly rusted. It is recommended that this procedure be performed during normal tune-up maintenance to prevent sticking problems at a later date. While on boost, no air leakage should be noticed (bubbles in the water). The reed valves and relief valve must be checked visually for proper closing. Due to the high performance of the turbo engine, spark plug glazing is a greater possibility than with other engines. This allows oil to run into the turbocharger and then into the exhaust pipes. This can occur because the seal in the turbocharger is similar to a piston ring; It only seals when the turbocharger is running. Oil can drain from the turbo Into the pipes or be pushed Into the surge tank when the turbo operates. Inspect the check valve by removing and disassembling it.A defective oil ring seal in the turbocharger Is possible but always verify that the check valve and oil lines are functioning properly before replacing the turbocharger. Finally, any oil In the exhaust pipes, joint, or mufflers must be cleaned out before running the engine Otherwise excessive smoking and carbon build-up will occur r within the exhaust system. Excessive movement is not. Consult your Regional Technical Advisor it the free play of the turbine compressor shaft Is questionable. To test for turbo bearing operation, start the engine and watch the turbine rotation at idle speed. If bearing failure has occurred.Also, since the turbocharger runs at very high temperatures, the motor oil must be changed more frequently. Refer to the service manual for specified service Intervals. This breakdown of the oil leaves coke deposits In the small oil galleries feeding the bearings which can eventually clog the galleries and lead to lubrication failure. The boost pressure is controlled by a wastegate that channels unneeded exhaust out the right hand muffler. See the block diagram below. As a result, the engine gives a smooth, ever-increasing curve of performance. If the turbo-charger unit fails, it must be replaced. Also check the oil scavenge and oil supply lines for any leaks. Replace as necessary. The shaft and locknut held fast by an adhesive. An attempt to force them apart will cause damage to the actuator diaphragm. Every connection and joint in the system must be tight, and new gaskets must be used. There must be no exhaust leaks or a drop in performance will result. The exhaust system must be assembled in the order listed below. All work together to provide the correct amount of air over the entire range of the engine's performance requirements, from low to high speeds. The relief valve and the reed valve are located in the surge tank. This is a back up system to the waste gate. If the wastegate actuator valve should fail, the relief valve will open the surge tank, reducing the excess boost pressure and thus protect the engine. In this way, turbo lag is largely eliminated and better throttle response can be obtained. It remains open when the engine is at a stop but starts to close as the surge tank is charged. A check valve is installed on the outlet o' the engine main oil gallery to stop oil flow to the turbo unit when the engine is not running. A scavenging pump rotor is equipped behind the original oil pump rotor to retrieve the oil from the turbo unit, ensuring a constant flow of oil. It is made of a coarser mesh than the engine filter and must be cleaned after the first engine oil filter inspection (500 km) and thereafter every This will help prevent any harmful foreign material from getting into the engine oil. This will speed up assembly time and help insure correct reinstall-action of all the engine parts. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Stop the engine and drain the engine and middle gear oil. Lift the rear end of the duel tank and disconnect the fuel pipes and vacuum pipe from the petcock. Remove the battery. Remove the board assembly. Remove the crankcase ventilation hose at the air cleaner case. Position the disconnect lead wires so that they can be safely removed. Do not forget to remove this clamp before removing the engine. Remove the brackets. Remove the brake pedal and right side muffler bracket holding bolt and remove the muffler bracket assembly. Always use the 19 mm flats provided on the timing plate to rotate this engine. On this, it is not necessary to break the cam chain. However, it can be broken if so desired. It is easier to disassemble the engine without separating the chain. Note the location of the cam caps. The caps for the intake cam shaft are identified 1-1 through I-3. The exhaust cam caps are identified E-1 through E-3. Directional arrows are cast on each cap and point toward the clutch side. Remove the cylinder head. It may be necessary to tap the cylinder lightly to loosen it from the base gasket. Be careful not to scratch the lifter bodies or lifter bores in the cylinder head. Be very careful to identify each lifters position so that it may be returned to its original place. Take out the retainer and valve spring with tweezers. Use an oil stone to smooth the stem end. This will help prevent damage to the valve guide during valve removal. Be very careful not to mix the location of these components. Remove the rotor. Use the clutch boss holder (special tool) to hold the clutch boss and remove the lock nut and lock washer. Note the wire harness clip position. Turn over the engine and remove the lower crankcase bolts, Use a soft rubber hammer to carefully separate the crankcase. Remove the shaft and starter idle gear. The shift forks are identified by numbers cast on their sides. There should be no warpage. Correct by re-surfacing as follows. Rotate head cover several times to avoid removing too much material from one side. Take care to avoid damaging spark plug threads and valve seats. Do not use a sharp instrument. Avoid scratching the aluminum. If the warpage exceeds allowable limit, the cylinder head should be replaced with a new one. Replace the valve if any dimension exceeds the specifications in the illustration. This clearance must be within tolerances. If it exceeds the maximum limit, then replace either or both valve and guide, as necessary. If it exceeds the maximum limit, replace the valve. If it exceeds the limit, replace with an oversize valve guide. Use an oven to avoid any possibility of head warpage due to uneven heating. The valve should be lapped to the new seat. If a new valve guide has been installed the valve seat must be recut to guarantee complete sealing between the valve face and seat. Apply mechanic's bluing dye (such as Dykem) to the valve face and valve seat, apply a very small amount of fine grinding compound around the surface of the valve face insert the valve into position, and spin the valve quickly back and forth. Lift the valve, clean off all grinding compound, and check valve seat width. The valve seat and valve face will have removed bluing wherever they contacted each other. Measure the seat width with vernier calipers. It should measure approximately 1.1 mm (0.0433 in). Also, the seat should be uniform in contact area. If valve seat width varies, or if pits still exist, further cutting will be necessary. Remove just enough material to achieve a satisfactory seat. Insert the valve into the head. Rotate the valve until the valve and valve seat are evenly polished. Clean off the coarse compound, then follow the same procedure with fine compound. Clean off the compound material. Apply bluing dye to the valve face and seat and rotate the valve face for full seat contact which is indicated by a grey surface all around the valve face where the bluing has been rubbed away. There should be no leakage past the seat. If fluid leaks, disassemble and continue to lap with fine lapping compound. Clean all parts thoroughly, reassemble and check again with solvent. Repeat this procedure as often as necessary to obtain a satisfactory seal. The valve spring specifications show the basic value characteristics. This is evidenced by a gradual shortening of free length. Use a vernier caliper to measure spring free length. If the free length of any spring has decreased more than 2 mm (0.080 in) from its specification replace it. This can be checked using a valve spring compression rate gauge. Test each spring individually. Place it in the gauge and compress the spring first to the specified compressed length with the valve closed (all spring specifications can be found in the previous section, Valve Spring), then to the length with the valve open. Note the poundage indicated on the scale at each setting. Use this procedure with the outer springs, then the inner springs. If the lifter is damaged in any way, the cylinder head surface in which it rides is probably also damaged. If the damage is severe, it may be necessary to replace both the lifter and the cylinder head. The metal surface could also start to flake off or become pitted. Cam lobe wear can occur without scarring the surface. If this wear exceeds a pre-determined amount, valve timing and lift are affected. Replace the camshaft if wear exceeds the limits. Place a strip of Plastigage between camshaft and camshaft cap as illustrated (lengthwise along camshaft). Tighten the nuts with specified torque. Remove the camshaft cap and determine the clearance by measuring the width of the flattened Plastigage. If the cam chain has stretched excessively and it is difficult to keep the proper cam chain tension, the chain should be replaced. Any that shows excessive wear should be replaced. Worn dampers may indicate an improperly adjusted or worn-out cam chain. If vertical scratches are evident, the cylinder wall should be rebored or the cylinder should be replaced. If wear is excessive, compression pressure will decrease. Rebore the cylinder wall and replace the piston and piston rings. Cylinder wear should be measured at three depths with a cylinder bore gauge. (See illustration.) Measurement should be made at a point 7.5 mm (0.3 in) above the bottom edge of the piston. Place the micrometer at right angles to the piston pin. If the piston and ring have already been used, the ring must be removed and the ring groove cleaned of carbon. The ring should then be reinstalled. Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the ring and the land. If the oil control ring rails show excessive gap, all three components should be replaced. Install in connecting rod small end. Check for play. There should be no noticeable vertical play. If play exists, check connecting rod small end for wear. Replace pin and connecting rod as required. Measure the amount of crankshaft run-out on the main bearing journals with a dial gauge while rotating crankshaft. Install bearing inserts into top crankcase. Carefully, place lower crankcase onto upper crankcase.