bmw 5 series f10 owners manual
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bmw 5 series f10 owners manualThe pump remains in operation for a brief time after the ignition is switched off. Use current flow diagram to locate and eliminate open circuit in the wiring between temperature switch -F54 and control unit -J293. Use current flow diagram to locate and eliminate open circuit in the wiring to fans -V7. Service radiator fan -V7. Use current flow diagram to locate and eliminate open circuit in the wiring between temperature switch -F18 and control unit -J293. Service radiator fan -V7. Control unit -J293 defective - replace. Use current flow diagram to locate and eliminate open circuit or short to positive or earth in the wiring between -E87 and control unit -J293. Use current flow diagram to locate and eliminate open circuit or short to earth in the wiring between engine control unit and control unit -J293. Use current flow diagram to locate and eliminate open circuit or short to earth in the wiring between engine control unit and control unit -J293. Eliminate cause of compressor shutoff condition Switching off of the compressor when refrigerant temperature is too high occurs via the operating and display unit -E87 in vehicles in which the contact is not occupied (if the contact is occupied switching off occurs simultaneously via -E87 and -J293). Eliminate cause of compressor shutoff condition Use current flow diagram to locate and eliminate open circuit in the wiring between High-pressure sensor -G65 and control unit -J293. High-pressure sensor -G65 defective - replace. Depending on the engine control unit version, the signal in the measured value block is displayed as duty cycle. Pump defective, replace. Locate open circuit in earth wiring to pump -V51 and eliminate. Pump defective, replace. Our library is the biggest of these that have literally hundreds of thousands of different products represented. I get my most wanted eBook Many thanks If there is a survey it only takes 5 minutes, try any survey which works for you.http://www.reiki.mannaz.pl/userfiles1/emcotec-dpsi-rv-manual.xml
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For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Audizine Family today!To start viewing posts, select the forum section that you want to visit from the selection below.Register or Log In now!Resale on them is real good too, so if i use it for a year or two I wont take a total hit. I think one option I can turn on is to tell it to kick on the radiator fan's. Also will be nice to see what codes i am throwing, to help me find out what my problem is. So my car is still overheating when not moving. I replaced: Themostat Coolant Temp Sensor (green 4 pin i believe) Temp Sensor (gray 2 pin i believe) Fan Control Module Neither fan ever turns on. If I knew what was positive vs what was negative and I had some long wire hooked up to my spare Optima battery would that be okay. The power supply is 600W (300w per fan I suppose) so I have no idea what I would be providing with a direct wire to the battery. Perhaps I just quickly attach it for 1-2 seconds to see if they spin up. I was afraid that they may not behave like simple PC fans where if you reverse it they spin backwards. Maybe these are brushless and it may damage them. I have no idea. NEVER are they spinning even the tiniest bit normally. I can touch each though and spin them with my hand so they are not frozen.I have ran them inverted and all.Check both fan motors for open circuit through the motor windings, and evidence of the motors overheating and burning the winding wire shellac, will look and smell burned.Check both fan motors for open circuit through the motor windings, and evidence of the motors overheating and burning the winding wire shellac, will look and smell burned. Otherwise, you will need to perform additional tests as described earlier.http://www.conditum.nl/userfiles/emcostar-woodworking-machine-manual.xmlI have ran them inverted and all.I tried the same thing with my SAI pump and used not too thick of wire and it quickly (2-3 seconds) got super hot and started to soften. I'll grab some thick stuff and test each fan. I may wait though till tomorrow and tonight I'll try with the VCDS to try to turn them on manually. Thanks ALL.I need to definitely read and learn how this works. I read the output test for the Engine common and for HVAC and there were times when it said that the Coolant Fan would engage or another that said Fan Control Module. I checked with my volt meter and always I only receive 0.7-0.8V out of the connections coming from the fan control module. I took out my Optima yellow battery that i have in my garage which my volt meter showed about 12.8V DC. I wired it up to the leads for each of the two fans and never ever did they even twitch or make any noise at all. I reversed the wires thinking if I had them backwards maybe it would matter, but it made no difference. Perhaps both are bad. It doesn't work though, but still interesting. I had the same problem. When I pulled the fans out, they were fried.I had the same problem. When I pulled the fans out, they were fried. I should have tested the fans themselves, replaced them if they didnt power on, then replaced the FCM if need be. OH WELL, I have a new one.Need to find a DIY written somewhere.I'd love to get one out and check it out.And to replace it wasn't too bad. I took off the bumper, loosened the core support and angled it out. Whole thing took about 2 hours. DIY for bumper removal Worst case, my compressor is bad I guess (hope worst case).The shop by me is going to charge it up with dye and see if there are leaks, see if the compressor turns on too. If that isnt working, I'll try the high pressure switch. I dont want to throw too much money at this without knowing what the problem is. I've done that too much already. Hopefully they can figure it out. ThxHeres an awesome resource: Heres an awesome resource: Not sure what this means exactly, but I do see that the 6.6bar goes to 6.4bar, no idea why or wtf that really means to me exactly. I knew the radiator fan was working because it kicked in when the car was hot, but I had yet to see the other passenger fan kick on. Both work great.Not sure what this means exactly, but I do see that the 6.6bar goes to 6.4bar, no idea why or wtf that really means to me exactly. I knew the radiator fan was working because it kicked in when the car was hot, but I had yet to see the other passenger fan kick on. Both work great. In other news, I'm still at work. Just never saw the passenger turn on since I cant get compressor to engage. This thread I found looks to basically make me want to replace the compressor, drier and restrictor. I bet this fixes it all. Thinking I will buy the compressor from buyautoparts.com as they are in SD and their price is crazy cheap for brand new compared to the dealer or even genuineaudiparts.com.You will also need to replace the two fans, with good used parts, as the motors are probably burned out.I had the system evacuated fully and then charged with 1LB of R134A by a shop. They said that with 1LB in it, it should be enough to work, but it didn't. When I run my car and turn OFF econ mode, I hear a load on the engine slightly and my car idles a little differently. However, they are probably not aware that it is running all the time in our cars. So IF my compressor is still good, I wonder why it won't turn on. I saw many posts about checking the relays under the ECU, but those were for when people said their fans would always run even after the car was stopped. I don't have that problem. I remember the first time my car overheated on Christmas Day when I was in traffic. I saw that my radiator fan wasn't spinning. Possibly something damaged. What recommendations do you have. I really do appreciate it. I've thrown so much money at my car, I really want this to work. If the compressor is good, I could replace the drier and the restrictor.You will also need to replace the two fans, with good used parts, as the motors are probably burned out. I am having a similar issue, replaced the fan control module, still not working.One other thing to check is the power relay under the ECU, if you have plugged cowel drains and the cowel fills with water the box that the ECU sits in can get wet and the relay 219 can get damaged. Some times it just seizes in the on position which means the fans run with car off and drain battery, it can also be not working in on position. You'll have to open box and lift the ECU and look at the relays. You can pull the relay out and inspect it, the cover comes off the relay and you will want to change if it look rusty inside.Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG. You may order presentation ready copies to distribute to your colleagues, customers, or clients, by visiting The function of the cooling fan relay is to convert a low voltage signal from either the electronic control module (ECM) or a thermostatically controlled sensor. By using a lower voltage signal to control the relay, there is less stress on the rest of the wiring and charging system. When the fan relay does not work, then the proper signal will not be received and the fan cannot cool the system down. To replace the cooling fan relay, there are two methods that we will cover for the positions mentioned above. Keep area around the fan blade clear in order to avoid injury. If at any point it is not possible to avoid contact with the radiator fan assembly, it is recommended to disconnect the battery in order to render the radiator fan inoperable. We must now identify which relay is the cooling fan relay. At this point, check to be sure the ignition key is in the off position. Gently pinch the relay with your fingers and wiggle back and forth, all while also pulling up on the relay. Sometimes it is necessary to use a small screwdriver or pair of pliers to carefully coax the relay out of its cradle. Once the cooling fan relay has been removed, compare the replacement relay to the relay that was removed. Flip the relay over and compare the terminal number and orientation. Position the relay above the recess where the original was removed from and gently press it into place. Visually look at the base of the cooling fan relay to be sure the base of the relay is seated completely into the socket. Verify the operation by energizing the cooling fan relay. Visually inspect the electric cooling fan assembly for the cooling fan relay. The cooling fan relay has an electrical connector that will need to be disconnected and switched over to the replacement cooling fan relay. Disconnect connector and remove cooling fan relay. Visually inspect the replacement cooling fan relay and compare it to the removed relay. Plug the electrical connector into the replacement cooling fan relay and reinstall it back into place. Verify the operation by energizing the cooling fan relay. If at any point you feel you could use a hand with replacing a cooling fan relay, have one of YourMechanic’s certified technicians come to your home of place of business and perform the repairs for you. Get service at your home or office 7 days a week with fair and transparent pricing. Check your in-box to get started. Please consider allowing Autoblog. But ads are also how we keep the garage doors open and the lights on here at Autoblog - and keep our stories free for you and for everyone. And free is good, right. If you'd be so kind as to allow our site, we promise to keep bringing you great content. Thanks for that. And thanks for reading Autoblog. A drop down menu will appear. The exact text will differ depending on the actual application you have running. It only takes a few seconds. Please follow the instructions below to enable JavaScript in your browser. On some vehicles with large, wide radiators, there may be two cooling fans, or there may be a separate fan for the air conditioning condenser. The engine coolant sensor or a separate engine temperature switch is used to monitor engine temperature. Extra cooling is not needed when a cold engine is first started, so the fan does not come on until the engine reaches normal operating temperature (195 to 215 degrees). The fan will then cycle on and off as needed to maintain the coolant temperature. So the fan runs mostly at idle or low speed when the engine is at normal temperature. Some fans may have a low, medium and high speed range while others have additional speed settings. Be aware of this if you are working in the engine compartment and the engine is hot. Keep fingers and tools away from the fan blades. This is normal. But the fan should shut off after several minutes as the engine cools down. This may occur regardless of engine temperature or vehicle speed. A belt-driven fan can consume up to 12 or more horsepower depending on engine speed and cooling load. On older applications, fan operation is usually controlled by a temperature switch located in the radiator or on the engine. When the temperature of the coolant exceeds the switch's rating (typically 195 to 215 degrees F), the switch closes and energizes a relay in the engine compartment that supplies voltage to the fan. The fan then continues to run until the coolant temperature drops back below the opening point of the switch.Input from the engine coolant sensor, ambient air temperature, vehicle speed sensor and other sensors may be used by the PCM to determine when the fan needs to be energized.On applications that have variable fan speed, the engine may also overheat if fan speed fails to increase when additional cooling is needed. The fan may work but it only runs at low speed, which may not be fast enough to prevent overheating. But this test doesn't tell you if the temperature switch or temperature sensor and PCM are energizing the fan when coolant temperatures are high. If any these inputs are faulty due to a bad sensor or wiring fault, the PCM may not run the fan fast enough to keep the engine cool. If the Check Engine light is on and there are one or more sensor trouble codes (especially a coolant sensor code, air temperature sensor code or vehicle speed sensor code), faulty input from the sensor may be affecting the normal operation of the cooling fan. Diagnosing and repairing the sensor problem should restore normal fan operation. Most fans should come on when the coolant reaches about 200 to 230 degrees. If the fan does not come on, something in the control circuit is defective. Resistance checks should then be made on the temperature sensor or switch, and a voltage check on both sides of the relay (you will probably need a wiring diagram of the fan cooling circuit on your vehicle to identify the relay terminals and wiring connections). Unplug the wiring connector on the fan, and use the jumper wires from the battery to route power directly to the fan. If the fan motor is good, the fan should spin at normal speed when supplied with 12 volts. Noisy bearings or a slower than normal speed would indicate a worn motor. Heater Service Click Here to See More Carley Automotive Technical Articles. The examples below assume a house size of 150 square metres and a range of operating times between a low use of 6 hours a day and a high use of 18 hours a day. While fans do not actually reduce air temperature, they cool the body by increasing the rate of air moving across the skin. Fans are most effective in the tropics (humid environments) and one fan can use between 1.2 kW and 3.6 kW of electricity a day to run. If the house had 5 ceiling fans installed, this would mean the total cooling energy would range between 6kW and 18kW per day. Fans can be used on their own or in combination with other cooling systems to reduce energy costs and improve the overall efficiency of the cooling system. For example, fans combined with evaporative cooling in desert regions can reduce the number of days when evaporative cooling is used in mid-season periods. Data show that 42 of houses had ceiling fans. Evaporative coolers blow air across water moistened pads to lower the temperature of the air. The system works best where the air is dry to maximise the rate of evaporation and cooling effect. The systems use low energy fan motors and water. In a desert environment, an evaporative cooler can use from 5 to 25 kW of energy a day and from 250 to 450 litres of water a day. Data show that 11 of houses had some type of evaporative cooling system. Split system refrigerated air conditioning units will use between 23 kW to 88kW a day to cool a house but require no water. Data show that 31 of houses had some type of refrigerated air conditioning units, with most (23) being small window mounted type units. Cooling the house needs to be taken into account at the design stage to ensure that the most effective and efficient system is installed during construction. This will avoid the need for residents to purchase cheap, poor quality systems that require installation after construction and have high running and maintenance costs. Given that 59 per cent of houses surveyed are located in areas where summer temperatures regularly exceed 40?C, survey data shows that only 21 of houses do not improve the inside house temperatures for residents in hot conditions, a significant decrease of 10 since 2006. Real world examples of problems Ceiling fans need careful positioning Airconditioners, often second hand and installed by the tenant, consume power and cost the tenant money - but do little to cool the house Makeshift stands and old air conditioners reflect the desperation of families trying to cool poorly insulated houses in very hot climates Design and Specification Ensure B8.4.1. passive design strategies have been incorporated to make the house cooler B8.4.2. insulation is installed in the ceilings of rooms that are going to be used as living space B8.4.3. that the power circuit for all air conditioning units is on a separate protected circuit and is fitted with no-volt relays to ensure that the air conditioner has to be manually restarted after a power outage. Consider For fans, consider: installing fans in all living rooms and bedrooms, even when other cooling systems are also provided installing fans on verandahs and outside living areas making the finished height of blades on ceiling fans not too close to the ceiling where they will stir up hot air but not so low as to be dangerous to people (minimum height of 2350mm above the floor and 200mm below the ceiling) positioning lights around the ceiling fans to prevent a strobe effect; lights need to be well outside of the diameter of the fan and need to be located around the fan selecting robust fan controllers that are resistant to fluctuations in power supply choosing timber or stainless steel blades that are not prone to rust using oscillating fans on walls or ceilings in bedrooms or where the ceiling level is lower, or in larger rooms to direct air movement across the room providing fans in bathrooms to evaporate moisture and reduce mould. Who: Plumber, Local Maintenance Team, Housing Management When: 12 Months plant shade trees around houses Who: Local Maintenance Team When: 12 Months keep air conditioning units, especially evaporative systems, cleaned and fully maintained Who: Plumber When: 12 Months consider using rainwater in evaporative cooling systems to reduce the effect of mineral salts on filter pads Who: Plumber, Housing Management When: 24 Months if evaporative cooling systems have been mounted on the roof, take overflow pipes to the ground to stop mineral salts from corroding the roof; also consider soakage beds Who: Plumber, Housing Management When: 24 Months monitor the temperature in houses and the cost of cooling houses to identify more energy efficient housing designs and cooling systems. Who: Housing Management When: 24 Months Standard And References Australian Council of Building Design Professionals, BDP Environment Design Guide, Royal Australian Institute of Architects. Nganampa Health Council Inc. 2000-01, Thermal performance, energy use and water consumption of round 2 health clinics and duplex staff accommodation units during critical winter and summer periods. All rights reserved. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Story goes like this; Ive had the car 2 years and had an issue with squeeling from alternator belt, until one day the alternator pulley seized up and sheered off (last year). I replaced this and thought nothing more. I also now remember that at the time the radiator fan seemed noisier and excessively fast. I have never had it regassed and it still blows warm air. It wasnt until a couple of weeks ago, I had my cambelt changed and had my car scanned for error codes. Neither fan appeared to be working but there was no obstruction and they spun fairly freely by hand. I have not been able to repeat this since (running it up to temp etc). I purchased a 2nd hand pair of fans from an ebay scrappy and was assured they were tested and worked. I have fitted them but they dont kick in at any time either (having had the car at running temp.) I have seen a thread about the compressor and that the centre of the pulley should run free. Mine doesnt and I wonder if the seizing alternator pulley (connected to compressor by the belt) has caused damage to compressor?? I have seen lots of threads on this fan topic and they suggest testing certain things but I am a little thick when it comes to electrics. I have checked the fuses in the engine bay and all appear fine. Firstly does this sound like something you may have had an issue with or that you can offer advice on?? Secondly can anyone assist with the following Where is the thermoswitch located. Is it correct that the Fan Control Module is built into the big fan. How do I test the relays. Any help on these apparently linked issues will be very much appreciated. Plus you aren't actually sure the fans work as you bought them from E-bay. The only thing i would add is the 2nd fault code could date back to when the belt came off and just be reporting that moment in time. My advice would be to send a personal message PM to Staz who is into this sort of witchcraft and magic View Profile: Staz - Audi-Sport.net ask him to just have a look at this thread and see if he has any thoughts. Copy and send this page address from the top of the page ie: www.Audi-sport etc Where is the Fan control module?? Where is the Fan control module??Do the fans run when the engine has warmed up and the car is stationary. The pulley and clutch are one unit that attach to the front of the compressor. To find ASN members with VCDS check out the MAP. To find ASN members with VCDS check out the MAP. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. The resource you are looking for (or one of its dependencies) could have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable. Please review the following URL and make sure that it is spelled correctly. Air conditioning system: Overview of fitting locations - air conditioning system, Refrigerant circuit, Air conditioner compressor, Front heater and air conditioning unit, Air duct, Operating and display unit, Control motors, Other controlling and regulating components. We are a team of ASE certified Let's jump right in! Once you know how it delivers cold air you will see Your heater and air conditioner (HVAC) does three The climate When one part of the system fails to operate like the air conditioner then On hybrid cars the compressor is electrically powered and does the same This is where the high pressure liquid is released into the evaporator The blower motor then circulates the air throughout the interior. Wear safety goggles and gloves Never loosen or undo any hoses or fitting before The system does contain a slight amount of oil If you can hear nothing This pumping action compresses the refrigerant so The following step are presented in Because this system is pressurized kind of Recharging the system is If the system lasts up to This is because the pressure drop inside the If the system is flat there is a Or there is an These compressors have an For these cars there will be one variable in testing which Using a flashlight and On internal valve compressors i.e. German cars you must use a test light to see if the signal wire This style of system does not cycle when it's low it If this fan If the vehicle is Using a test light check all related fuses such as the BCM, climate control, You can use your car's owner's Most of the This relay supplies main power to the compressor You can swap this When this sensor goes bad the compressor will not turn on. To test this sensor This test sounds harder than it Remove any obstructions such as plastic bags from the This works really well and helps the air The compressor is the main mechanical part of This belt should be This filter should be If you don't Tools and supplies needed for air conditioner repair We have created a guide that will inform you as to where to go If you need. AHRTI is the research arm of the Air-Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI). Empirical validation should guide the selection of criteria. The test also requires that the concentration of refrigerant not exceed 50 of LFL within five minutes of the door having been opened. Extending this time period may be another way that the test could be made more conservative; that is, extending the time period in which refrigerant could build up. “ The standards committees might consider having different requirements between condensing units high up on the cabinet and condensing units lower or at floor level. This assumes the condenser assembly is the highest probability leak location. However, this assumption needs to be confirmed from the field data.”. For our direct buying customers, My Daikin offers you real-time information, anytime, anywhere and on virtually any device. The square shape measuring 83x83 mm is a common standard. Protection class The ebm Q-Motors are enclosed, corresponding to protection class IP42. Installation The two-sided pressure cast bearing plates (A and B sides) feature multiple mounting options. The protruding threaded ends on the A side are for mounting protective gratings and wall rings. The Q-Motor can also be mounted with the mounting feet that are fitted into the bearing plates.The multi-function design combines both mounting feet dimensions in one motor. Performance data The performance data is for the enclosed IP42 design of insulation class “B” and a rated voltage of 230 V, 50 Hz. More powerful Q-Motors can be implemented for low ambient temperatures, excellent cooling and short duration operation (S2). Absolutely no liability can be assumed for possible indication errors and errors in the manufacturers’ information. Please review the stack trace for more information about the error and where it originated in the code.Information regarding the origin and location of the exception can be identified using the exception stack trace below. Press repeatedly until a long beep is produced. The code indication changes as shown below, and notifies with a long beep.