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Call us at 1-800-239-5152 Call 1-800-239-5152 For additional OEM parts and manuals visit partstown.ca MON - FRI: 7:30AM - 7:00PM ET. However, in many companies it is still neglected, despite the fact that it helps to win new customers and also leads to increasing turnovers. This was the conclusion of a german study presented by the auditing and consulting firm PwC. The company examined a total of 100 industrial service providers. The top 20 percent of the companies were able to achieve 56 percent of their total sales by providing spare parts and other services. The provision of spare parts plays therefore an important role in offering a good level of service. But it also requires the simple provision of spare parts catalogues which enable customers and service technicians to order spare parts in a quick and easy way. The portfolio includes products and solutions for slicing, processing, weighing, cashing, checking, commissioning and labelling. 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Measure the camshaft runout with a dial indica- tor and V-blocks. ROCKER ARMS The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are required to remove the rocker arms: 1. Slide hammer bolt (8 mm): YU-1083-2 or 90890-01085. Installation NOTE Each rocker arm and shaft have be come mated through wear. Unless a part is being replaced, install each rocker arm with its original shaft, and install them in their original locations (intake or exhaust side) in the cylinder head. YS-01880 wheel installed. However, the fly or 90890-01701), or its equivalent, is required to wheel must be removed for cam perform this procedure. These marks must be aligned during assembly. 4. Remove the retainer bolt (A, Figure 55) and slide the retainer (B) from the slots on the cam chain drive assembly shaft. CAUTION An oil slot (Figure 56) in the end of the drive assembly shaft collects oil that lubricates the shaft and bushing in the cam chain drive assembly. Primary drive nut 3. Cam chain drive assembly 11. Lockwasher 4. Cam chain 12. Keyed washer 5. Front chain guide 13. Timing gear 6. Retainer bolt 14. A valve spring compressor (Yamaha part No. YM-04019 or 90890-04019), or equivalent, is needed to remove and install the valves. 25 mm outside diamter. Make sure the opposite end of the com- pressor rests against the valve head. Label the set so you will know what cylinder it came from and whether it is an in take or an exhaust valve. This keeps parts from getting mixed up and makes installation simpler. Do not mix components from different valve assemblies or excessive wear may occur. Never reinstall a valve guide or circlip. They are no longer true and are not within tolerance. 8. After the cylinder head cools, check the guide bore for carbon or other contamination. Clean the bore thoroughly. The following procedure is provided if you choose to perform this task yourself.Check the seat by performing the leakage test described in the Cylinder Head section earlier in this chapter. If fluid leaks past any of the seats, disassemble that valve assembly and repeat the lapping procedure Valve lapper until there are no leaks. Inspection The following procedure requires the use of highly specialized and costly measuring instru- ments. WARNING The edges of all piston rings are very sharp. Do not drive out the piston pin. This could damage the pis- ton pin, connecting rod or piston. 6. Remove the piston from the connecting rod and remove the remaining circlip from the piston. Dis- card both piston pin circlips. Make sure the circlip’s end gap does not align with the notch in the piston (Figure 120). If a piston shows signs of partial sei- zure (bits of aluminum build-up on the piston skirt), replace the piston to reduce the possibility of engine noise and further piston seizure. If the clearance is outside the range specified in Table 2, replace the piston pin (if the piston bore inside diameter is within specification). Recondition or replace the piston if necessary. 4. Roll each ring around its piston groove as shown in Figure 131 to check for binding. Minor binding may be cleaned up with a fine-cut file. Engine bracket upper 2. Cylinder head bracket bolt through bolt through bolt 3. Front frame member nut 9. Upper rear engine 14. Rear frame member bolt 4. Rear engine through bolt mounting bolt 15. Remove the cylinder head covers from each engine from the frame. Though this is cylinder head (Chapter Four). Note that the bolt with two oil holes (B, Figure 5) se cures the oil pipe to the cylinder head. If any cracks are detected, take the chassis assembly to a Yamaha dealership for further exami- nation. Installation 10. Install the front engine bracket as follows: 1. Disconnect the three-pin stator connector (A, Figure 21) and the two-pin pickup coil connector (B) from their respective mates on the wiring harness. FLYWHEEL AND STARTER CLUTCH The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are needed to remove or install the fly- wheel and starter clutch: 1. Sheave holder: part No. YS-01880 or 90890- 01701. Snap ring 3. One-way clutch 11. Washer 4. Flywheel 12. Bearing 5. Washer 13. Starter wheel gear 6. Nut 14. Starter idler gear assembly 7. NOTE Install the sheave holder so it sits completely flat against the flywheel. Remove each pin and spring (Figure 36) from the slots in the flywheel. Installation 1. Insert a pin into each spring (Figure 37). 2. If either part is worn or dam aged, replace the starter clutch assembly. 4. The one-way clutch is faulty if it fails either test. Replace the starter clutch assembly. Replace the gear if any teeth are worn, broken or missing. 4. Inspect the bearing surface (B, Figure 48) of the starter wheel gear for nicks or scratches. Replace the wheel gear if it shows signs of wear. Watch for the O-ring (Figure 54) behind the fitting on each end of the pipe. NOTE This pump has two sets of rotors: a thick set that fits in the primary body and a thin set for the secondary body. Keep each set of rotors together with its respective body. The end with the holes enters from the out- board side of the cover. CRANKCASE The following Yamaha special tools, or their equivalents, are needed to service the crankcase: 1. Crankcase separating tool (part No. YU-01135-A or 90890-01135). See Figure 76. fork shaft stopper plate (Figure 75) from the right crankcase half. 6. Before removing the crankcase bolts, draw an outline of each case half on a piece of cardboard. NOTE Bolts No. 15 and No. 16 are silver col ored. These bolts must be reinstalled in their original locations during as sembly. BLIND BEARING REMOVAL CAUTION Rotate the crankshaft frequently dur ing the tightening process.Do Puller not heat the crankcase with a torch. If the side clearance is still outside the specified range, replace the crankshaft. 9. Use V-blocks and a dial gauge to check the crankshaft runout (Figure 96). If the runout ex- ceeds the specification in Table 1, replace the crankshaft. CAUTION Each connecting rod has a Y em bossed on one side (Figure 100). The connecting rod must be installed so this side faces the left crankshaft end (the tapered end). Be sure the weight marks (Figure 99) on the side of the rod and cap align.Replace any part that is dam- Refer to Figure 1. Oil will leak past these bolts if the threads are not sealed. Clutch spring bolt 4. Plate seat 14. Spring plate 5. Clutch boss 15. Clutch spring 6. However, do not use a steel washer. Steel will damage the gear teeth. 11B. If a clutch holder is not available, stuff a shop cloth, copper penny, or brass washer (Figure 18) between the primary drive gear and the primary driven gear on the clutch housing. Installation 1. The last item installed should be friction disc. 11. Make sure the marked tab on each friction disc sits in the marked slots on the clutch housing as shown in Figure 15. If necessary, remove the fric- tion discs and clutch plates. Minor roughness can be cleaned with an oilstone or fine file. If any one plate has excessive roughness or wear, re- place all the clutch plates as a set. NOTE The clutch plate thickness does not apply to clutch plate No. They must be smooth for chatter-free operation. If there is any excessive damage, replace the compo- nents. b. Inspect the posts (B, Figure 32) for wear or galling. If there is any excessive damage, re- place the clutch boss. Seat the balls in the detents. 3. Invert the assembly and install it into the housing on the inboard side of the alternator cover (Figure 40). YU-01880 and note the position of the timing or 90890-04131), or an equivalent flywheel holder, marks on the cam sprocket plate and is needed to service the primary drive gear. Push the springs as far apart as possible. 2. See Figure 48. 10. Install the cam chain drive assembly and the cylinder head as described in Chapter Four. 11. Install the clutch as described in this chapter. Inspection 1. Snap ring 4. Stopper lever 14. Shift pedal 5. Collar (XVS1100A models) 6. Pin 15. Wave washer 7. Shift shaft spring (XVS1100A models) 8. Mainshaft fourth gear 3. Countershaft fourth gear 12. Splined washer 4. Snap ring 13. Snap ring 5. Splined washer 14. Mainshaft second-third 6. Make sure the engagement dogs on the gear face away from first gear. 2. Install a splined washer (B, Figure 19) and a new snap ring (C). Make sure all gears mate properly. Have these tools on hand before beginning this procedure. Middle drive shaft. The Yamaha universal joint holder (part No. 5. Inspect the damper spring for wear, cracks or YM-04062 or 90890-04062), or its equivalent, is damage. Drive yoke 5. Collar 15. Washer 6. O-ring 16. Middle driven shaft nut 7. Apply Yamaha Bond 1215 or an equivalent sealant to the threads of the CHECKING MIDDLE. Pull the meter connector (B, Figure 5) from be- neath the ignitor panel and disconnect the 14-pin meter connector (A, Figure 6) from its harness. Pull the tank bracket rearward until the tank is free of the damper (A, Figure 7) on each side of the frame. Remove the fuel tank. 12. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the following: a. Air filter housing bracket (lower) 3. Air filter 13. Air filter housing duct 21. Cylinder head 4. Clean out accumu- lated moisture or dirt. If necessary, blow the hose clear with compressed air. 2. Inspect all components of the air filter housing assembly. At full throttle, the carburetor venturi is fully open and the needle is lifted far enough to permit the main jet to flow at full capacity. The choke circuit is a bystarter system. If necessary, turn the pull cable adjuster (C, Figure 26) to create addi- tional slack. 12. Loosen the cable clamp screw (A, Figure 27) and disconnect the choke cable end (B) from the choke linkage. These cables must not be twisted, kinked or pinched. Secure the cables in the holder (B, Figure 7). e. Connect each hose to the fitting noted during removal and route the hose along its original path. Remove the throttle arm (B, Figure 35) from the throttle shaft on the front carburetor. 8. Remove the mounting screw (A, Figure 36) and lift the choke linkage (B) from the starter plunger on the rear carburetor. Throttle position 1. Screw 2. Choke cable bracket sensor (TPS) 19. Carburetor heater 3. Top cover 4. Spring 20. Ground terminal 5. Needle retainer 21. Pilot jet 6. Jet needle 22. Spacer 7. Remove the carburetor heater (A, Figure 48) and its washer from the bottom of the carburetor body. When servicing the rear carburetor, also re- move the heater ground terminal (B, Figure 48). 12. Remove the mounting screws (A, Figure 49) and lift the float bowl (B) from the carburetor body. Replace it if necessary. 8. Inspect the diaphragm on the vacuum piston for tears, cracks or other damage. THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT Refer to Chapter Three. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Testing Perform the following test procedure whenever the self-diagnostic system (see Chapter Nine) flashes a TPS error (code 3). Perform the test in the listed sequence. Thermo Switch Test 1. Disconnect the two-pin thermo switch connector (B, Figure 75) from its harness mate. CAUTION The thermo switch is sensitive to shock. Replace the thermo switch if the test results are not within the above specifications. Carburetor Heater Test 1. Disconnect the electrical lead from the carbure- tor heater and remove the heater from the carbure- tor. Starting at the choke lever, carefully pull the cable from the motorcycle, following the path of the original cable. 11. Lubricate the new cable as described in Chap- ter Three. 12. Untie the string from the old cable and tie it to the carburetor end of the new cable. EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL (CALIFORNIA MODELS) All models sold in California are equipped with an evaporative emission control (EVAP) system, which reduces the amount of fuel vapors released into the atmosphere. See Figure 104. Label each hose before removal so they can be easily identified during assembly. 1. Remove the toolbox cover and the side cover from the left side of the motorcycle. Separate each muffler from its respective exhaust pipe and remove the muffler assembly. Correct any leak prior to riding the bike. Inspection The exhaust system is vital to the motorcycle’s operation and performance. Charging Voltage Test 1. Connect an engine tachometer to the spark plug lead on the No. If the bat- tery polarity is incorrect, the voltage regulator, al- ternator and ignitor unit will be damaged. 2. Do not disconnect the battery while the engine is running. 3. Keep all connections between the various units clean and tight. It could come out with the end cap or it could remain in the housing. 5. Lift each planetary gear (Figure 21) from its post in the front end cap. Record the number of shims and their locations. Store the shims in a marked plastic bag. 12. Pull the armature (Figure 29) from the arma- ture housing. The number and or- der of the washers and shims varies. 16. Remove the brush holder assembly (Figure 32) from the armature housing. 17. Remove the insulator (A, Figure 33) from the brush holder assembly. Measure the length of the commutator serviced by a Yamaha dealership or each brush with a vernier caliper. If the length of electrical repair shop. If a pair of bars is discolored, armature coils are grounded. Replace the starter. 4. Measure the diameter of the commutator with a vernier caliper. Replace the starter if the commuta- tor diameter is less than the service limit specified in Undercut Table 1. Make sure the electrical terminals are clean and pack the con- nector with dielectric grease. The re- lay should have continuity. Watch for the collar on each stud. SIGNAL SYSTEM The signal system includes the horn, turn signal lights, brake light and indicator lights (except the high beam indicator, which is part of the lighting system). If it does not read battery voltage, the wiring between the main switch and the flasher relay is faulty. Repair the wir- ing if input voltage is less than battery volt- age. Connect the negative test probe to the black terminal (D). c. If the relay does not have continuity, replace the oil lamp level. 3. Check the oil level indicator wiring as follows: a. Remove the fuel tank (Chapter Eight) and disconnect the meter assembly connector (Figure 87) from its harness mate. For example, Figure 95 shows a continuity dia- gram for a horn button. It shows which terminals should have continuity when the horn switch is in a given position. Note the following: a. Apply lithium soap grease to the ends of the pull and return cables. Never use a higher amperage Blown fuse fuse than specified. An overload could result in fire and complete loss of the bike. Main Fuse Removal The 30-amp main fuse (A, Figure 110) and a spare (B) are located on the starter relay. When inspect- perform any necessary modifications before sup- ing any of the components described in this chapter, porting the motorcycle with the adjustable compare all measurements to the tire and wheel ser- centerstand. Also protect the rotor when transporting a wheel to a dealership or tire specialist. Do not place a wheel in a car trunk or truck bed without protecting the rotor from side impact. The bearing should be tight in the bore. Drive the bearing into the bore until it bottoms. b. Repeat substep a and install the left outer bearing. A wooden block between the brake lever and the han dlebar prevents the accidental appli cation of the brakes. 3. Insert a wooden block between the brake lever and the handlebar grip. When replacing the bolts, al- ways use standard Yamaha brake disc bolts. Never compromise and use generic replace- ment bolts. They may not properly secure the disc to the hub. d. Use a small amount of medium-strength threadlocking compound on the brake disc bolts prior to installation. Notice the dot (Figure 24) on the clamp. The clamp must be reinstalled with the dot facing up. 8. Make sure the shoul- dered side of the collar faces out. 4. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the splines of the driveshaft (Figure 32) and the univer- sal joint (Figure 33). Each bearing should turn smoothly with- out noise or excessive play. 4. If the rear wheel was not inspected during re- moval, inspect it as described in Wheel Inspection in this chapter. Lubricate the new O-rings with lithium soap grease and install them into the hub. c. Install the clutch hub onto the damper studs and install two new lockplates (B, Figure 36). d. Install and evenly tighten the nuts. e. Check the spoke holes for cracks or enlargement. Wheel Truing Preliminaries Before checking runout and truing the wheel, note the following: 1. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good condi- tion. WHEEL RUNOUT NOTE The number of spokes to loosen and tighten will depend on the amount of runout. As a minimum, always adjust two or three spokes in the vicinity of the rim runout. Mark the tire at the highest point (12 o’clock). This is the wheel’s lightest point. Be careful not to pinch the inner tube with the tire irons. 8. When the upper bead is off the rim, remove the nut from the valve stem. Remove the valve from the hole in the rim and remove the tube from the tire (Figure 53). Pry the bead into the rim on both sides of this initial point with your hands and work around the rim to the valve stem. TIRE CHANGING (CAST WHEELS) Tire rim line WARNING Do not install an inner tube inside a tubeless tire. The tube will cause an abnormal heat buildup in the tire. Breaking the bead seal may require the use of a bead breaker (Figure 61).