mitsubishi ke70 diesel engine manual
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mitsubishi ke70 diesel engine manualI just rebuilt another one in a Satoh S370D and the fuel pump had a paper gasket under it which is a sign someone likely threw away the original metal shim(s) and decided to install a gasket there instead. The repair manual says you can do it a couple of different ways. One is to take out the delivery valve in the pump and put the holder (nut) back on the pump. Then you turn the crankshaft and watch when the fuel stops coming out of the holder and check it against the timing marks. By the way, if you use this method as soon as you take out the delivery valve fuel will continually gravity feed from the tank and right through the pump so you need to manipulate your fuel line shutoff accordingly. Then I took out the injector nozzle, hooked up the supply line, and rotated the engine by hand until the injector popped. Then I started thinking maybe when I put the engine back together I didn't get the punch marks correct on the crankshaft and cam gearing so I double-checked that and it was correct. So I'm very confused as to what is actually happening. I wish now I would have documented this when I had the camshaft out so I could attach pictures, etc. Is it even possible for the engine to run at this setting??? I suppose it very well could. I don't play around with timing on diesel engines enough to have first-hand experience of how sensitive they are to timing but I think most people who do would scoff at such a claim. The engine does run by the way, and seems to run like the rest I've seen. However, I never knew why the other KE70 I have always knocked so much compared to the others and I wonder if the fine engineers at Mitsubishi decided to adjust the grind of the cam to force the timing retarded to quiet the engine down. Again, probably another stretch but it would explain some things. Just throwing this out there in case others may have seen something similar.
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I get the impression that generally people don't mess around with the timing if the engine appears to be operating correctly so it may never be noticed and realistically it should never change much anyway as long as the factory shims are intact.Its been awhile tho.Thanks for pointing it out.I sure hope this helps. TPGI don't have a solenoid but now that you mention it I don't know where the rack position was on the pump when I tested it. Generally the governor works towards adjusting the rack to more fuel when the engine is stopped but I don't think it goes to full rack on these engines. I do know the pump will deliver some fuel even in the minimal rack position. Then the question is, does the fuel delivery start point change depending on rack position or not (?) I would think the start point timing would stay the same, just the end point of fuel delivery would change.Instead of just rotating the crankshaft by hand I thought about using a different approach. So armed with a trusty GoPro Hero 4 black camera that is capable of shooting 240 frames per second I headed out to do some experimenting. The results can be seen here: Full rack injection timing test - YouTube I believe this confirms the timing to be retarded much more than what it was originally intended to be. It was interesting to find the injection pulse duration lasted about 15 degrees, or three frames from where it can be first detected. Therefore once the pop is over you're 15 degrees later than the start, at least at the speed it was turning at in this test. I did not verify the shims on this particular engine, but it doesn't appear to have been taken apart in its lifetime so I'm making the assumption it has the original shim(s). So why is the timing the way it is. It might prevent bent rods (upon starting or low rpm running where the piston might not be past TDC before combustion). The downside is a less efficient engine, more black smoke or smoke in general, I think higher exhaust temps, to name a few. What doesn't seem to make sense though is the engines seem to hit their intended speed mark with no issues. Generally you need to advance the timing as speeds go up and with it as apparently late as it is, I'm surprised they run as good as they do at high rpm. If I get the opportunity I'd like to do this test on the K3 engines, or even other engines. I don't have any of those needing to come apart yet though and I'm not curious enough to strip one down just for this test. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. New head gasket, new water pump and belt, and new exhaust. Got the parts from Southern Global in Missouri. Never been this deep into an engine before, this should be interesting. Hours on engine are unknown, no meter. Best guess is around 1,500-2,000. That should about cover it. Here ya go, Kenny. For comparison, a Kohler M20 is 47 cubic inches. Slapped it back together enough to run it and all seems well. Hope this is the case, and no gasket replacement is needed. WTH? View attachment 322 View attachment 323 If it broke between separate bearings, then each half could be frozen to their respective shaft half. Next up, replace fuel lines. I had one leaking at the injector, and cutting it and re-attaching split it some more. Darn stuff just doesn't last, I guess.:angry: Here's to hoping the next ones last 39 years!:thThumbsUp-1. Iseki uses the Mitsubishi diesel engines in its compact tractors and lawnmowers; see an entire overview below. We can provide genuine Mitsubishi parts for these engines. Not only are we the official distributor for Mitsubishi Equipment in the Benelux, we are also the distribution center for small engines in Europe (L- to S-series). 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