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I used many bottles of engine cleaner, stuff works pretty well Sent from my iPhone using Audizine But i just never got to it untill i really needed it for the rs6. I used many bottles of engine cleaner, stuff works pretty well Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Theres no shaft play and even if they do go it's a simple engine pull away (lol). How hard is it to remove the aux radiators. Being in NJ, I'm not sure just how necessary they are. Trying to keep everything as stock as possible, but we shall see.I should have all the parts I need, now if I could just find the time (and motivation). Not sure if you chose a clutch yet but I went with a Ringer Racing stage 4. Here's a recent thread on rs6.com: and Also, what are you planning on doing for the software?I should have all the parts I need, now if I could just find the time (and motivation). Not sure if you chose a clutch yet but I went with a Ringer Racing stage 4. Here's a recent thread on rs6.com: and Also, what are you planning on doing for the software? Hes also the person I went with when I tried to go Stage 1.If you're interested in another option, here's who I plan on using: I was under the impression that subframe had to be dropped to pull the engine and your pictures show brakes intact etc. I?m selling one rs6 and will be parting another to build an rs6 avant. This thread has my interest. I was under the impression that subframe had to be dropped to pull the engine and your pictures show brakes intact etc. This thread has my interest. Should come right out after that. The service manual I have specifically stated to remove the engine with a hoist and out the front. Not lower the subframe onto a table like they say. Very weird, but it worked.Should come right out after that. Very weird, but it worked. Its for hot climates, in europe they dont even have them i believe. You wont notice a difference without them Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Its for hot climates, in europe they dont even have them i believe. You wont notice a difference without them Sent from my iPhone using Audizine I'm going to try and do some heat management with gold insulator under the hood so this might be a thing.Then you block off the very first line, which is under the coolant tank. And the very last line which is a steel pipe going into a large coolant pipe. The last one i welded shut Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Should come right out after that. Very weird, but it worked. Where did you wedge the 2x4Where did you wedge the 2x4 Just behind the transmission mounts. And put those blocks between the subframe and the body You should download the service manual. It covers the whole engine pull step by step. Search for site:rs6.com service manual Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Just behind the transmission mounts. Search for site:rs6.com service manual Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Tried to register before and never got in.Tried to register before and never got in. Ive got copies of it and can scan them and email them to ya. Sorry OP for hijacking your thread now Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Small progress today, but I'm loving it.Keep taking such great shots, it'll be such a huge help to someone who's doing a 6 speed swap.I need to do that when it's clutch time for my A6, too many years of seepage and leaks have taken their toll on the underpinningsInstalled it, well tried to. The oil lines bottomed out on the 2x4 I was using to support the engine and bam-o. Broke it right off. It's literally the bolt farthest away from the oil and coolant o-ring so I think it'll be fine without it. That said, I'm going to JB weld it back on and try again tomorrow.https://www.informaquiz.it/petrgenis1604790/status/flotaganis19062022-1618I do realize that there are other bolts to hold it steady, but given the engine vibration and torque stress factors (especially an RS6), I personally wouldn't be able to sleep at night with that in the back of my head. Plus, if it did end up failing after installation, it's a real pain to change out in-situ. All this said, I've been watching this thread with great interest, and wish you success with whatever route you choose. EDIT: If you know someone local who has the proper equipment to weld aluminum, that would be a very viable 3rd option.I have definitely been giving a lot of thought to having it welded. There is a local shop that specializes in B5 S4's near me (Actually where I took the downpipes to) and I think I will give him a call. I'm selling him my 2.7t as well as picking up my downpipes next week so then would be the time to have it welded.I have definitely been giving a lot of thought to having it welded. I'm selling him my 2.7t as well as picking up my downpipes next week so then would be the time to have it welded.I'm not an expert on the 4.2, but if it's the same part that comes on a NA engine, then you should be able to find one somewhere in the US. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Audizine mobile app I also did some light research on these housings, and Audi does list the 077115405K variant as being RS6 specific. I wonder if the external metal coolant pipe routes differently and goes into the housing in another location than the NA 4.2. Jolio, if you want to post a couple pics of the overall external side of the housing, I can take a quick look at mine and compare.I'm having my buddy weld it back on, he said no problem. I'll drop it off next week when I goto deliver my 2.7t to him as well as pick up the downpipes he modified for me.The housing looks the same as the NA one to me, always nice to double-check, and hopefully someone benefits from this info in the future. I'm sure everyone here knows this, but the Audi parts numbering system can be really tricky when dealing with the letter suffixes.The housing looks the same as the NA one to me, always nice to double-check, and hopefully someone benefits from this info in the future. I'm sure everyone here knows this, but the Audi parts numbering system can be really tricky when dealing with the letter suffixes.I used a 12 point (yes, the correct size) and the flywheel bolts simply stripped. So I went to Home Depot, then Lowes, then Harbor Freight, and was finally able to pick up some Metric Ez Outs. The sockets walls are too thick to fit in between the 10 bolt pattern, yay me. I've literally used a 3ft breaker bar with a 5ft cheater bar while using the crank lock pin to keep it from rotating and I know for a fact they crank lock pin is going to break before these come out. So, what do I do? Like I said, I'm at a complete loss. Even tried drilling one of them out to try and fit a T50 bit in there and it stripped immediately. Don't want to heat them in fear of damaging the main rear seal.Those are held in with the red stuff so they'll be tough at room temp.Luckily this is on a flex plate and not recessed on a dual mass flywheel, so you have that going for you. I would try to get them rotating with a hammer and a sharp chisel, an impact hammer with chisel bit can also work but you need to have some self control and not just blast the head off leaving you trying to extract the threaded part.I've done this on two BCY motors now. You'll laugh at how easy they are to remove once the tension is removed with the bolt head. I tried getting some sleep this morning, but it was bothering me too much, so I grabbed the angle grinder, ear muffs, and glasses. Then I went to town haha. After that I used the EZ out's I had and the studs came right out, with a little effort of course. No fun! As for the project disassembly wise, I'm done. Now I can move onto the installation phase of everything.The parts in post 31 are a dream for me haha. Sent from my iPhone using Audizine The usual 'build' starts with a thread outlining tons of plans and dreams and claims of buyign stuff and where the deals are and just it just stalls. You sir, have not let us down.awesome.Barking dogs? Watermelons? The usual 'build' starts with a thread outlining tons of plans and dreams and claims of buyign stuff and where the deals are and just it just stalls. You sir, have not let us down.awesome. Shouldn't be difficult to find an A6 bracket on ebay or something worst case.You sir, have not let us down.awesome. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG. If this is your first visit, be sure toTo start viewing messages,It's also not dripping oil, but losing oil. I'm living currently in the Middle East, so I'll need to ship the parts to me.So I know what my option are before making a decision. Thanks guysI highly suggest using the Steven Ken kit. The time savings and ease of install is worth it. Make sure to stay far away from TTV for the flywheel. It is junk, the bad flywheel caused me to r and r the transmission. As for parts find a swap kit on this or other forum from a donor A6.It's also not dripping oil, but losing oil. I'm living currently in the Middle East, so I'll need to ship the parts to me.B7 RS4 for example, with accordingly modded flywheel. -You will need to mod your engine block to move starter inwards, and have the transmission not bolted all the way around the bellhousing. Some may argue that this is not the proper way. On top of that don't forget to include proper ECU software, all the maintenance items (and maybe bigger turbos while at it). I've had cars done both ways, both lasted, both are fine currently. It's not cheap by any means, so it all really comes down to whether you like the MT or not.Im waiting on the model number, to check if it will fit against what you guys tell me.It might be the way to go. maybe.Im waiting on the model number, to check if it will fit against what you guys tell me. It's the ZF-5HP24A model. Here some more details on it from my website brochures. Just find a reconditioned RS6 box. Go on rs246.com, Europe mostly.Basically any one of those will be an (almost) direct fit, especially if acquired with everything I've listed earlier.EDIT: And I'm not even sure others will fit. AFAIK, RS6 has a bigger bellhousing (and it's not removable) compared to other Audi 5HP24A boxes. I might be wrong here, though. I found a box, but it doesnt have the part number on it. And by having access to our ebooks online or by storing it on your computer, you have convenient answers with Audi Rs6 Convert To Manual. To get started finding Audi Rs6 Convert To Manual, you are right to find our website which has a comprehensive collection of manuals listed. Our library is the biggest of these that have literally hundreds of thousands of different products represented. I get my most wanted eBook Many thanks If there is a survey it only takes 5 minutes, try any survey which works for you. If you agree to our use of cookies, please continue to use our site.We've seen a kit on.Come'on people, we need some info on how to convert that thing into a manual RS6 C5. The labour is'nt a problem either. We just need a proper DIY and proberly be the first in Holland doing a RS6 C5 with manual, 6 speed conversion. Not sure I'd want to put a slightly recon used trans in an RS6 if you are going to give it the beans. I don't know anything about the 4.2 box, does it have a better torque rating. Price wise the AA kit (without shipping) is not much more than the handful of 01E parts I needed for my gearbox, so cheap in my opinion. C5 RS6 (Wagner, Milltek, Bilsteins) B5 RS4 (Wagner, Revo, Brembo, B12), 01 allroad, 01 A4 TQGP, '63 Unimog 404 TLF. One guy I think used a B7 box bit was changing gears a lot due to the ratios. Personally I don't think the cost and work involved with the manual conversation is worth it. Plus the added cost of having the TCU and ECU remapped to work with a manual box there is probably only a 2 or 3 of the main tuners who could do that. There are guys building big american V8-powered dragsters who use that box, just because it's so solid. 'Just' a matter of connecting the drive shafts and linkage. Long list of shit that cost me a fortune.OK Join Information. Yes No Choose Display Mode Original Dark DONE. Done a small presentation on the dedicated subforum, so I guess I have done everything by the book and hopefully I'm allowed to write my first topic. As my 5HP24 has just let me down (RS6 C5 Avant 2003), I am seriously considering a swap for a manual gearbox, but would like first hand experience before making the jump. So what's the status on the matter, is it worth the hassle. Anyone bought and installed one of these kits:.I would imagine you’d need a rather grabby clutch to handle the torque which could spoil the ride. You could go twin plate but very expensive and they come with their own niggles to live with. With the manual you have all the extra work of the conversion. Time and cost wise, it's got to be easier to keep it on the original box, unless you are planning to turn it into a mega beast with huge power. If refurbing the auto box, just make sure its serviced regularly. So all in all, there shouldn't be much of a difference, or am I missing something. Obviously since no one have made the plunge yet, there is also a big risk to be the first to try (hence my original post ).Did MRC do the work. He'll be along shortly I'd presume. Done a small presentation on the dedicated subforum, so I guess I have done everything by the book and hopefully I'm allowed to write my first topic. Anyone bought and installed one of these kits:.I was more interested in the axle, prop shaft and diff upgrades. I'm pretty sure I've posted up that site URL on here previously. I think since you're US-based it's a no-brainer if you really want to go Emannuel innit. For us UK gits ordering from that website is a little more fraught with issues. In regards to the experience of living with an RS6 manual; well, I don't think it's worth it unless the car has a lot of power (HP more so than torque). Being US based I'd have thought you'd have way more options to rebuild the slushy to a higher tolerance, which would make a more tractable car and probably a consistently faster one at that. It will also launch quicker and (IMO) be 'gentler' on other drivetrain components. The slushy is just better at keeping a stg 1 and stg2 spooled up and it's better at riding the torque. However, if you really want a manual then nothing anyone says is really going to sway you otherwise. I can't comment if it will be easier to work on the car, mine needs to have the engine and gearbox out to change the clutch, the turbos are wrapped around the 'box. Now the fact that barely no one in Europe (does that include UK ? ) has done the swap makes me think more than twice.That's why it has flappy paddles and a manual mode - you can drive it as a manual whenever you want. The conversion was done in 2015 and the seller has driven it around 7000 miles since. He says it works quite well and features a single mass flywheel with proper starter and adapter plate. The biturbo 4.2L V8 is unmodified from stock and a major service was done at the time of the conversion which included a new timing belt, new water pump, front and rear main seals and valve cover gaskets. The car is sold with a clean Autocheck and a clean Florida title. The original head unit has been retained, though the odd center-stack mounted cup holder used in many VWAG models of the period appears to have been removed. The stock carbon fiber shifter surround was slightly modified to accommodate the shifter and boot. Some looseness and creasing is evident on the driver’s seat, along with some discoloration on the driver’s outer bolster. The transmission conversion was performed by the seller’s shop, Hoti Motorcars, and used an Audi 01E gearbox from a 2.7T C5 Audi A6 now fitted with a single mass flywheel. The seller spent time dialing in the ECU programming to allow proper idling and shifting. Per the seller the correct 6-speed ABS module has been installed, but will need to be coded to the car. The suspension has been upgraded with Bilstein PSS9 coilovers and Hutchinson swaybars front and rear. The conversion took 9 months to complete and the seller drives it all time. Attempting to connect. Missed updates will be sent once your connection has been reestablished. Missed updates will be sent once your connection has been reestablished. Missed updates will be sent once your connection has been reestablished. Your bid has been posted in the comment flow on the listing, and you can see other bids there as they happen. Good luck! If you don't win, your existing pre-authorization will be released. If you win the auction, your card will be charged for the service fee and you pay the seller directly for the vehicle. If you don't win, the pre-authorization will be released. Are you sure you want to proceed? If so please use the bidding box above. We may earn a commission through links on our site.The C5-generation RS6 sold in the early 2000s uses a Cosworth-developed twin-turbo 4.2-liter V8 engine making 450 horsepower, and looks fantastic. The only issue? It was only sold with an automatic. It's a dark blue RS6 that's had its automatic replaced with a six-speed manual transmission, currently for sale on Bring a Trailer with three days remaining. The car now makes an estimated 650 horsepower. The seller has done a ton of recent maintenance, including replacement of the timing belt, water pump, battery, brake system, engine mounts, transmission mounts, and tires. Despite all of these updates, the car still looks just like any other old Audi. It's a true sleeper, and with the addition of that six-speed, should make for an impeccable driving experience. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io. With nearly 600 hybrid horsepower on tap, it promises to be exactly the rocketship full of 5-door tech you’d expect from the company. Let’s just say that it’s safe to assume that’s out of the reach of most of the people chastising Audi all over the Internet for not bringing it here to this point. But today we’re looking at a sedan, because 1) they’re much more plentiful, 2) they’re much more affordable, and 3) this one is turned up and should offer close to the performance of the inbound model. The seller claims this car produces 620 horsepower and 750 lb.ft of torque. Oh, and I almost forgot quattro) it’s a 6-speed manual swap, too: This has to be one of the cleanest RS6?s. You can tell this vehicle was always garaged and loved. The paint is near perfect with not one ding or scratch. I just had it detailed in and out and the car has zero swirls. Interior was conditioned with Zymol Treat which is still absorbing so you may see that in some of the pictures on the leather. I have a folder with tons of receipts for regular maintenance and also all the upgrades. I took a ton of pictures so you can see the beautiful condition. The car pulls like a freight train but is also very smooth. It is addicting to say the least. The video is about half throttle. My name is Chris After all, how many 6-speed Daytona Gray Pearl Effect RS6s with 9x,xxx miles could there be in a 100 mile radius. Two, apparently. As with the last example, the execution looks really slick here and condition appears to be top-notch. With a Porsche Cayenne Turbo, BMW M3 and Audi A8 hanging in the picture framing, this car is clearly coming from an enthusiast and a particular one at that. I think there might be a clue in the listing. But according to the Connecticut DMV, the car will not pass inspection with an ABS light on. I think the same is the case here, especially with a potentially un-inspectable example. Bookmark the permalink. The shape and look are spot on to me. When I had my D2 S8, I considered selling it and purchasing an RS6 to daily drive, instead. However, with all the mods, I would question how daily drive-able it would be. That’s a lot of car for the money. And maybe I have flipped some cars, but I can guarantee you that they leave my hands better than they do when I get them.I never understood the narrative of who the car came from being something that outweighs what the car actually is. To be honest, people who buy air cooled and vintage big dollar stuff have this analytical approach. Kids who buy e46?s and e36 and e30s are usually inexperienced and will cross a car of their list because the guy might be a flipper or whatever. It makes no sense. Know what you are looking at, be educated in your approach and buy what you like. But in this case I think the issue may lie in the car, which is a relevant reason to bring up that it’s being sold quickly. I could be wrong though, the seller may have just changed priorities. But I’d be worried that there was a more substantial reason this car is for sale so quickly again. No denying the performance advantage anymore. For certain cars a manual will always be the “right” choice regardless. This is rather hard to believe without any examples or offered proof as more than some attempt to convince through childish whinging. Why an automatic gearbox? “With a normal gearbox you always have a hole. With an automatic gearbox, even when you change gear you always have torque on the wheels. This means much better acceleration, and you gain those tenths of a second on every shift”. Then look in the mirror and realize none of that is true. Responding without any content other than nonsensical whimsy is the sign of an undeveloped and useless try at dialogue. Why and what anyone uses or prefers is obviously beyond your ability to realize as more than inept insults in your part. Remedial education is available for your condition. They go together like oeas and carrots. There are 13 automatics for sale on eBay alone right now. If you want a manual one, this is the only one for sale right now. Win, win! I would guess that even the ?audi douchebaggery guy.The early 90?s Northern California green Jetta Gli on Craigslist for 17k that did a bat auction and ended at 7k. Seller will not entertain offers under 14k. What I find interesting in the e30 e36 e46 Vw world is that these cars attract young buyers who just don?t understand the subjectivity of a car purchase. The Jalopnik crowd I call them. They can?t understand why people will spend good money on certain cars (because they don?t have money or won?t because what their fiends think) or on the other hand that green Jetta. It attracts 20 something kids. Nobody who can afford it will pay that amount for it. Just like how bat auctions with these cars that appeal to younger people are full of awful trolls. What I am trying to say is that there are tons of people out there in the buying public. And just because someone will or won?t pay a certain price has nothing to do with what I think. This car will find someone,they always do. It has some great features. They just have to wait for that person to show up. It?s that simple. There is nothing wrong or right about it, no detective work needed. We are different and all love cars. That?s all that should matter. Your email will not be sold or spammed, we promise! As a practice we rehost images and ad copy to preserve the listing for future reference. If you would like additional attribution for your work, or wish to remove your listing from our site, we are happy to accommodate.We are not responsible for these items in any way. Estimates on price and values expressed in our posts are solely the opinion of the writers. Thank you for your understanding. We can't connect to the server for this app or website at this time. There might be too much traffic or a configuration error. Try again later, or contact the app or website owner. After another round of communication error codes between my ECU and TCU on my 2003 RS6, I Perhaps it is a little light for the job, but apparently they work OK. For the RS6 version there are a lot of extra parts required that rack up the price a bit, and I can only Thanks, Rich Cargurus shows a total of 4 cars.Using the same Make and model criter. I have a strange question. So I have been searching for a video that I have The video was about the AUDI RS6 Avant (I think it was RS6). So in the Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. To measure output signal voltage from the hall sensor, carefully move test leads to terminals 4 (gray) to 1 (blue). Slowly rotate the motor rotor by hand. You should read a pulsing 10 V dc. If 10V dc is measured from 4 to 1, move the lead on the blue wire to the red wire, terminal 2. Repeat rotating motor rotor by hand. You should read a pulsing 10 V dc. 8. If pulsing 10 V dc is measured from pin 4 to pin 1 and pin 4 to pin 2, the hall sensor is OK. If either test netted only 9 to 10 V dc without changing (no pulsing) the hall sensor is likely defective. Disconnect power by unplugging the washer. Ohm check the hall sensor as outlined in Ohm Testing Hall Sensor (See above) to verify failure of the hall sensor. WM2277 WASHER PAGE 30 of 84 TRAINING MANUAL 29 Testing the Hall Sensor from the Control Board Control Board Testing Location Control Board Output and Hall Sensor Input can be measured with the connector connected to the board and the machine operating. Also, these voltages can be measured by parking the meter leads on the desired terminals and spinning the tub briskly with the power cord disconnected. White to Gray 10 to 15 vdc Gray to Blue pulsing 10vdc Gray to Red pulsing 10vdc Note: If 10 V dc from gray-to-blue or gray-to-red does not change (pulse), that resistor is open. Confirm by disconnecting the power, disconnecting the hall sensor connector on the main board, and ohm check that individual circuit. Test both separately to determine the area of failure. WM2277 WASHER PAGE 31 of 84 TRAINING MANUAL 30 IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE The information in this training manual is intended for use by persons possessing an adequate background in electrical equipment, electronic devices, and mechanical systems. In any attempt to repair a major appliance, personal injury and property damage can result. The manufacturer or seller maintains no liability for the interpretation of this information, nor can it assume any liability in conjunction with its use.