land rover discovery td5 manual gearbox oil change
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land rover discovery td5 manual gearbox oil changePaste as plain text instead Display as a link instead Clear editor Upload or insert images from URL.By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy. I am now on 170k and I doubt that this has ever been done. Also December I did a few water crossings and as a precaution I want to change the Gearbox, Transfer Box and Diff oils. I do not know where to get these oils. What oil are you all out there using for the above. I am looking for something that I would be able to get at my local spares shop. I would assume the defenders and disco will use the same oil. I would appreciate any feed back. Thank YouI put Castrol VMX into the gearbox and Caltex Thuban into the diffs and transfer case. There was however a bearing in my gearbox that was worn and this started making a noise while driving down from Joburg to the Garden Route. Whether the Castrol VMX had anything to do with this, I don't know. It is very expensive oil and according to articles on landyonline etc.What I am going to do next time around is to replace the gearbox oil with MTF that you can obtain from LR. It's expensive but the Gearbox only use 3l so it won't be so much. I have spoken to a couple of people who also use Caltex Thuban in the diffs and transfer case and they are very happy. I cannot complain either. You can obtain this from any Caltex Service Station. I would however suggest that you do your own research as well.Hope this helps.I get my oil from their depot in Krugersdorp. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More. We have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place. Rgds MArk Click to expand. OK, step by step: 1. for a short drive to warm up the oil. 2. park the vehicle on level ground; 3.
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get underneath the vehicle and find the level fill plug, it's on the drivers side of the gearbox. Slacken this off, but don't fully undo this yet; 4. using a 32mm ring spanner, undo the gearbox drain plug (these can be quite tough) and allow oil to pour out into a suitable container - there should be about 2.5ltrs. 5. Now take out the level fill plug fully, and allow at least 10 mins for all the oil to drain out. Time for coffee. 6. Once the old oil is all out, replace the drain plug; 7. Now start to refill the box with clean new MTF94 oil. It will take at least 2.2 litrs. When it starts to overflow back out, you have the correct level. Hope that helps Good luck DaveI just read a thread for a 300tdi saying the EP90 goes in both the diffs and the gearbox.I just read a thread for a 300tdi saying the EP90 goes in both the diffs and the gearbox. Click to expand. Numpty points coming my way. Basically I was after asking if it's the same for the TD5. EP90 for axles and TRANSFER box. I didn't read the original correctly and just managed to cock the rest up quite easilyNumpty points coming my way. I didn't read the original correctly and just managed to cock the rest up quite easily Click to expand. Incidently, large quantites of numpty points in post Ps The oil to use is EP80w-90 GL5. If you can afford it EVO2 from Difflock.com is brilliant stuff - but it's about ?12 per ltr. 6 ltrs will do your TD5 tranfer box and both axles.Click to expand. Otherwise speak to your local motor factors who should be able to get it for you. Alternatively use EVO1 from www.difflock.com and they do ship that. Registration is quick and easy and will give you full access to the site and allow you to ask questions or make comments and join in on the conversation. If you would like to register then please Click Here For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. ATF is automatic transmission fluid but not solely for automatics think the dexron bit basically means its red in colour. There is a lot on the web about it, apparently Honda dealers sell their own version of it. I'd go for the right oil personally, and wouldn't use anything else unless it was an emergency. Peter Both mine do anyway, and I fitted new plastic ones and O-rings. YMMV Peter LR dealers do MTF94 at ?28 for 5 ltrs which is enough to d a manual box twice. So using the corrrect fluid and changing it 2 times over say 3yrs will cost ?28 - not a lot to pay for the correct lube in my book. 2. PAS - as UP has said this advice is completely wrong. You obviously can do as you choose, but really the only fluid you should be using is the LR low temp stuff. Don't know how some ATF mixed in would work, but don't want to risk it either. They basically say its an ambient temp thing being fine down to minus 20 whereas the other being minus 30. The gearbox advice is fair enough, I may heed to this and get the proper stuff then. If that is the case then it could add to the problem later on by making it fail all of a sudden. I may stick to wiping the box dry for the mot and keeping my eye on it, then if it gets worse I will try the lucas stuff, ive already put some atf in the steering anyway so seems daft to put the proper in until I fix it, I will however check my gearbox and if low or dirty get the proper stuff, the only way I will put atf in the box is if I find on saturday that its empty or very low or very dirty as a temp fix until I can price some proper stuff up. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Failure to use the correct product may compromise fuel efficiency. By using the products listed you can be confident that you are using the right product for the above vehicle. Have tried searching but not sure on the results so hopefully someone can confirm.http://fscl.ru/content/cyberstorm-ppc-manualI need to get ATF for the GKN overdrive anyway. However MTF94 is now the recommended oil for all R380's.A big improvement in the gear change since doing so. About ?40 to changeI change the oil at every 6000 mile service. Keeps the gearbox slick. I've also use this oil in the LT77 box with similar excellent results reducing stiff cold gear changes. After all, you can at least top it up, even if you cant get the drain out. Click here for updates.Mineral based transmission fluid with specially balanced additives to give a product which protects manual gearboxes and transmissions.Excellent bearing and gear protection and proven synchroniser performance.ZF recommend oil and filter changes after 50,000 to 75,000 miles on 8 speed automatic gearboxes to ensure.Excellent bearing and gear protection and proven synchroniser performance.Suitable for applications where a 75W-90, 75W-85, 80W-90 or 85W-90 API GL-5, GL-4 oil is specified.Excellent bearing and gear protection and proven synchroniser performance.A more durable replacement for the original Land Rover part number:.A kit of service filters including: Engine oil filter Engine oil rotor filter Diesel fuel filter Air filter Sump plug washer 10L of Triple QX.Gearaxl S 75W90 from Rock Oil is an ultra high performance, fully synthetic lubricant for gearboxes, axles and differentials. Can be used as a universal driveline.Gearaxl TF0870 is a fully synthetic gear lubricant for the latest generation of electronically controlled active transfer case gearboxes and ensures optimum power.Engine oil filterEngine oil rotor filterDiesel fuel. You no longer have to do a service every 6 months, or change the oil every 3 months, but regular fluid changes are still essential to your vehicle’s longevity. If you need more guidance, or step-by-step instructions, check out our online manual with videos, or get our traditional printed manual. These are the minimum intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, since it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle. The vehicle manufacturer may reject warranty claims if you are unable to prove that servicing has been carried out as and when specified, using only original equipment parts or parts certified to be of equivalent quality. We recommend that the timing belt is renewed at the 36 000 mile interval, especially on those models which are subjected to use in adverse conditions. The actual belt renewal interval is very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks. Please fill out this form and we will get in touch with you shortly. However, many people don’t know when they need an oil change or what happens if they don’t get it done regularly. We’ll give a brief explanation on what exactly engine oil does. We’ll also go over how often you should change your oil and some warnings signs to look out for. Read all about oil changes below and schedule your next oil change online. As the engine runs, its different parts rub against each other, which causes friction. The more friction that occurs, the more the engine heats up, which could greatly damage important components. The purpose of oil is to help keep the engine nice and cool and working properly, but this can only happen when the oil is clean, which is why it needs to be changed regularly. However, a good rule of thumb is every 5,000 to 7,500 miles for an engine that’s in a regular passenger vehicle. If your car has a diesel engine or you regularly drive in “severe conditions,” that interval would change to every 3,000 miles or every six months, whichever comes first. It could also be driving at speeds of less than 50 MPH on long-distance trips or traveling on roads that are dusty, muddy, or sandy. In fact, if your vehicle uses synthetic oil, you could go as long as 10,000 miles before needing an oil change. We’re happy to provide you with easy-to-understand descriptions of what we’re doing to your car, as well as go over any questions you have, such as “what is a full-service oil change?” To help you understand what may be causing your car to leak oil, we wanted to highlight some common reasons how a leak can occur. The signs you need an oil change are many and varied, and they’re listed for you below. Pay attention to all of them, and you’ll avoid engine trouble down the road. Over time, it’ll turn black and get gritty from picking up lots of debris. When this happens, the oil won’t lubricate properly and will need to be replaced. This will result in rumbling and knocking sounds from the engine, which will get louder the longer you put off an oil change. Either way, it’ll be extremely dangerous to keep driving around. If you start to smell oil, get it changed as soon as possible. If an oil change warning light pops up on your dashboard, it means there’s very little oil left in the vehicle. However, in some more severe instances, you could see your check engine light come on. This means the engine is at a very high risk of damage from the lack of fluid or damaged parts. If either light comes on, get an oil change right away. Make sure that the oil pressure light goes off after starting the car. At our state-of-the-art Land Rover service center, our technicians are experts on performing oil changes. Due to this, they can do the job quickly and efficiently to get you back on the road as soon as possible. This way, your Land Rover will continue to run well for many years and miles. Not only can they be for oil changes, but they can also be for services, such as wheel alignments and battery checks. These specials do change from time to time, so you’ll want to double-check what we’re offering before booking a service appointment. Our certified technicians will work hard to get your vehicle running in great shape again. The signs you need an oil change are many and varied, and Land Rover Albuquerque highlights the most common ones to keep your Range Rover or Land Rover in great working condition. Pay attention to all of them, and you’ll avoid engine trouble down the road. We’ll cover what’s included and how you can keep your Land Rover model in perfect working condition with our helpful guide. Be sure to read on to ensure that you know what to expect when you head to Land Rover Albuquerque for service. Posts: 303 To cut a long story short it is the 8mm hex bit that undoes the diff filler plugs.Despite only paying for Saver Delivery, it arrived next day. Top Service Last edited by Phil1644 on 11th Apr 2011 4:11 pm. Edited 1 time in total Posts: 303 Posts: 303 Altox GSM FBH controller thread I was thinking whether a oil change would help but after seeing this right up and the colour of that oil I am defiantly changing it JE Remap, De-cat, Blanked EGR's, Allisport intercooler, Samco intercooler hoses, D4 rear lights, A bar, Big spot lights, Front headlight guards, 20'' Stormer wheels, Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time. Any problems Only dead fish go with the Flow ! I can't find a definite price but you should expect to pay more than ?30 per litre if you buy this stuff from a LR dealer.Modern JLR Junk.Last edited by Woolmeister on 3rd Feb 2016 6:44 pm. Edited 3 times in total. If you notice any of these signs, it could be worth getting in touch. Automatic gearbox oil that is changed at recommended intervals helps disperse heat better, helps lubricate clutch plates, and contains fresh detergents to keep the transmission clean and operating properly. This may cause acid, rust and sludge in the fluid, which is the leading cause of transmission failure. The torque converter is a doughnut-shaped liquid coupler, which has two main functions: This involves thoroughly exchanging your old oil for new fully synthetic oil, using ATC plus soft shift formula conditioner, with torque converter and oil cooler. We believe that the lifetime of your transmission can be extended with a service every 40,000 miles or every 4 years and in our experience not changing the oil has caused problems including slow or jerky gearshifts and in some cases premature transmission failure. Some of these common faults include: We connect our machine into the transmission system and start the flushing process, by adding a flushing agent into the transmission system and run for 20 minutes. Many garages only exchange approximately 60 of the old oil in the system. We then add a conditioner to the new transmission oil, clear any fault codes that might be in the system, to give your Land Rover or Range Rover many more miles of smooth gear changes. Dean serviced his apprenticeship with Mercury Cars back in the early 90s and then went to join a local Main Dealer as technician. The clutch friction plate has a ring of springs, which are there to soften the knock of the diesel engine to stop it being transmitted to the driveline. This can sound quite bad and does vary from car to car but is not detrimental to the life of the gearbox and we view it as an undesirable characteristic of the LT 77 and R 380 as opposed to a fault with either the gearbox or the clutch. The slot locating the synchro slipper wears and allows the baulk ring to rotate too far. This blocks the synchro assembly. It will be necessary to rebuild the gearbox, and replacing the baulk ring with a later type will eliminate this fault. To check mainshaft spline wear remove the PTO cover and with the main box in first gear rock the car backwards and forwards whilst looking into the end of the input gear. If the spline is worn you will see movement of the shaft in relation to the gear. Replace the gearbox and transfer box input gear (use a cross drilled gear to prevent recurrence of the problem). You require a rebuilt or new gearbox. There is no need to put any sealant on this face. This gate position must be adjusted correctly to agree with the selectors in the gearbox to ensure a good gearshift. When we rebuild the boxes we set this position but sometimes it needs fine tuning when in the car. When you have worked this out you can slacken the 4 screws holding the plate and move the plate left or right accordingly to improve the shifts. If you pull back the rubber boot on the turret you will reveal two large springs and two adjuster screws and locknuts. When you fit a new gearbox this can sometimes need adjusting to agree with the selector shafts to ensure a clean gearshift. Firstly you need to work out which way to adjust it, to do this drive the vehicle but when shifting into 3 and 4 instead of letting the gearstick go where it wants to go try holding it a little to the left then a little to the right, one way or the other it will drop in nicer. When you have worked this out you can adjust the screws the springs are resting on to lean the stick left or right until it shifts better. However we have recently found this oil to give better results ATF To rectify this, the parts needs replacing. You can find this part here Once these parts are fitted you can fit the R380 defender top housing and linkages or you can also fit the Defender LT77 top housing but you will have to remove the 'T' piece under the housing which is held in place with 2 M6 screws. Write a review. Something went wrong. The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended. This item may be a display model or store return that has been used. Discovery 2, all models, 98-04. With, bearing guide and Clutch Fork. Gibraltar, Lichtenstein, San Marino, Switzerland. Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Greece, Latvia, Lithuania, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia. Cancel Thanks, we'll look into this. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. I have to rev the engine really hard to make it change up. Why? Check and adjust the gearbox accordingly. As a guide the looser the cable, the earlier it will shift, visa versa the tighter the cable, the later it will shift. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why? You should get a good flow of oil. The torque convertor must be fitted to the gearbox, located correctly on the pump and locked into position before the gearbox is offered to the engine, otherwise damage will occur to the pump, resulting in no oil flow and subsequent to other parts of the autobox. This has become worse in the cold weather. Why? In the cold weather, i.e when the oil is cold and more viscous, if the filter is partially blocked it will take some time for the pump to draw oil through it. Once the oil becomes warm it flows more freely and can pass through the filter more easily. Hence the problem only occurs when the oil is cold. To remedy this problem your filter needs to be changed.I can then select “D” and continue to drive normally. If I stop I have to start in first again. Why? No further damage will occur if you continue to drive but you will need to select “1” every time to start moving. A rebuild is required to correct this. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why? The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace your Autobox. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs. When it starts from cold it will only get up as far as 3rd gear for the first 5 miles or so, or until it’s fully warmed up. I love the car but if it needs a new gearbox it’ll probably be the end of our relationship. Any ideas? No fault codes are logged and it behaves like it always has. I’d love to hear your suggestions. Cheers mate. This only happens from stone cold and is ok the rest of the day. I have tried replacing the gear oil and filter but this has made no notable difference. Any ideas? Try low box and the box changes gear perfectly. I have disconnected the transfer motor and the problem gets better but not right as will not lock up the convertor and wont change into top until around 65 MPH. This is not good for the MPG. Tried oil and filter, both ECU’s Please help. Regards Mike Any ideas ?? Ta muchly Will a TD5 auto box fit? I want to mate a ZF4HP22 or MT82 6speed transmission to a Ford engine. I would think that only a V6 or 4 cylinder would fit into the Defender. I know that a 2.2L Ford Duratorq (“Puma”) Diesel will fit as will a 3.2L Power Stroke diesel used on the Ford Transit. Well if you do here is my problem my box doesn’t like the cold if I run it straight from a cold start when it changes from 1st to second the engine will rev quite high and 2nd will engage with a clunk sometimes when running in 3rd or 4th there will be a big lurch and a clunk and then I get an auto gearbox fault come up on my dash (Citroen C5 2l SX Auto 2004) and it then goes into limp mode, now if I stop the car and re start the fault clears and the gearbox operates normally, this has been going on for some time and is gradually getting worse, any ideas? The sound is defiantly from the box and is there when car is stopped and in motion. Your help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance Michael I done it on a disco 2, 4.6 with a 4hp24 and a Borg Warner box. Done it mainly to stop it spinning a wheel out if junctions. Any ideas? And would it be possible to replace the internals of my trans with that of a 4hp22 from a BMW? Cheers That is if there is any difference ? Regards Lately the transmission has started sometimes shifting hard between 2-3 and 3-4. This only happens sometimes and only after the transmission is hot. Otherwise, it shifts silky smooth. I changed the fluid twice in the last month. The new fluid seems to have helped some but has not resolved the problem completely.Eventually got it going, today having done a 40 mile motorway trip on my way back the manual and sport mode green indicators are constantly flashing and it was if I was losing power, Can you advise. When you move the stick from P to R or Drive it does nothing but will roll forward like it’s in neutral (the lights come on down the column as normal).There’s plenty of fluid in it, what else should I check. Thanks, Andy My 96 P38 has just developed the very same problem. Lights working on column, graunching in park, and nothing else. Any ideas of the problem with these syptons please? The car was very sluggish on cold start and then got to a point when it would not engage into drive unles reved to 2500rpm, then was fine all day till next morning. Had it flushed and new oil put in and it is maginally better wear by it now seems to engege and crawl along extremely slowly but still needs to be reved to about 2500rpm to move of properly. This has happened over the last couple of months, any advice appreciated? I stopped and was able to get it to move a few 10s of feet and then it would happen again. It eventually started working again and I made it home, but in 1st as it started not wanting to shift either. I drove it the next day as a test and it worked fine. Any thoughts? Thanks Engine off all gears light up on control, no faults on dash. Top up oil. No gears at all. Any idea? Cheers Also can I replace the electric kick down as I’m fitting this into a 200 tdi ? Have changed the battery,topped up the gbox oil no change. Have checked the wiring from the ecu to the gbox all ok, checked it from oc ( broken wire) to short on the chassis all is ok. I know there are two solenoid s in the gbox, but I find it strange that both are showing the same fault. Reverse only works when cold. When cold reverse will go in and hold, but after a short drive reverse no longer kicks in. I swapped the reverse gear safety valve and no change still. Any ideas? The 3 and 4 gear dont work. I change oil, filter clean valve body and nothing happend. Any ideas? Then it seems to change into lock up without first going into fourth gear. Any ideas what the problem is please. Many thanks, Kevin I lost drive. Since then I have replaced gearbox oil 3 times and gear box filter. On the second attempt all was working fine and I done it a third attempt for good measure. It now is back to loosing drive and reverse. Will flushing through clear this or would you suggest a new auto box? Transmission problem.is show me F in the dashbord clock.If I wait for engine to warm up.when doing same test their is a rather loud clunk when selecting drive or reverse.New oil and filter fitted oil at correct level. I don’t know if this a coincidence when I load up the torque converter by trying to move off in drive with foot brake applied. Vehicle towes and is offroaded Cheers Will a 4 speed box from a bmw fit if so will the bellhousing bolt up or will bellhousing from the zf3 go on the 4 speed box if any other issues please tell thanks lynden The kick down cable has been left unattached. Will this cause any significant damage in the short term ? It doesn;t happen below 50 and accelerates quite happily. Does this suggest a failing torque converter and would this mean a refurbished box, or just the torque converter? I’ve just changed gearbox with another 2nd auto ment to be in good work in order from a landrover wrecker. Touque converter was set in place properly before fitting. I’ve topped all oils up in transfer nd box. Have found its not selecting park properly nd when it does it don’t come up with park on the dash nor the red light on the console. It also has no drive in reverse or drive no whether it’s in high orlow range. Can anyone give me any pointers to what could be happening. Any ideas would be muchly appreciated. Thanks justin It engage in 3 rd or 4 th gear only. Will i cause any damage to car.box of a disco 3. Thanks The car does not move in 123DR. After some time and after a few movements of the lever it move, but only in first gear without change of a gear. The problem is not all the time. Sometimes everything is working properly. I checked the oil level. Please give me advice. Its like a car fitted with a manual gearbox with a worn clutch plate. Engine just roars in one place and slowly gets uo to a maximum of 130kmh. Could it be a gearbox issue. Poor pickup speed. R is working with good speed. Have removed filter and sump assembly and saw too much black residue inside the sump tray and filter also filled with reside. Do you recommended replacing the filter or washing it (servicing it). And also recommend me which gear oil to use and the procedure to fill the the gear. Regards Noman Sometimes in the morning i need to rev the engine a lot to get going which I assume is the oil filter clogged. I recently lost drive whilst driving at 50mph, no noises or anything. If I put it in park I can still roll the disco back and forth. Any ideas as to why? Auto box has an intermittent fault. Have done full gearbox flush, and checked selector cable position and tension. No fault codes on gearbox or engine diagnostics. Airflow meter tested and seems fine as well.Could this be overheating gearoil? I have a 1990 BMW 320i Convertible with this box and wonder if it is possible to make some adjustment to make it change from 3rd to 4th a little earlier than normal. The gearbox works fine, but it does not change to 4th until over 50mph is reached. I believe it does this because 4th gear with a ratio of 0.73 is treated as an overdrive. I would be grateful for any help and advice you can offer. Many thanks Mel. I can then select “D” and continue to drive normally. If I stop I have to start in first again. Why? No further damage will occur if you continue to drive but you will need to select “1? every time to start moving. A rebuild is required to correct this.” Anything else that could become a major problem due to this issue? What could the problem be. Also has any body else had this issue. Thank you Sev. My question is will the transfer box of the 3.9 fit on the 4.6? I do have a complete transmission out of a 3.6 lt.XJS but the rear mount interferes with the floor tunnel and I believe that the torque converter would not be suitable.Any help would be most appreciated.Regards Maurie When I start it up in the morning there is a loud whining noise (I’ve checked pullies).