1904 holley carburetor manual
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1904 holley carburetor manualThe main body includes the metering block, float and the economizer. The float bowl mounts on the front of the carburetor and can be metal, or glass. The glass bowl is becoming a rare piece to find, undoubtedly because they are so easy to break and they are not made any more. Having the float bowl on the front allowed the 1904 carburetor to be designed with a low profile, which accommodated a smaller space between the engine and the hood. While we are fortunate to have carburetor kit coverage for all of the 1904 carburetor numbers, there are few other parts still available. In particular the float and the plastic actuator are very rare these days. We get quite a few requests for these parts, but when we do find these parts, they generally go on other 1904 carburetors. Your best bet to obtain these parts is to find a used carburetor and use it for a parts donor. Holley 1904 Specification Sheet There are some common problems with this carburetor and fortunately we know what they are and how to fix them. Because of over tightening of the float bowl screws, the main body is often warped causing leaks around the float bowl. This can be rectified by heating the body in a vice and straightening the mounts. Due to years of wear the choke shaft often has excessive end play causing the idle screw to miss the fast idle cam and possibly cause the choke valve to hang. Last but not least is a problem with the metering block being warped and allowing fuel to leak past. This can be rectified by grinding the surface flat, which we do with a disk sander, but a flat file should also work. All of these problems are fixable and we have the cures, which are detailed on our Holley 1904 technical page and on our many Holley 1904 videos. It would be a good idea to review all of this information before jumping in to your rebuild. Get your Holley1904 parts here. Please be aware that any of our technical information is based on parts that you have purchased from us.http://northcoteplaza.com/userfiles/incanto-rondo-service-manual.xml
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Parts from other sources may install, or work differently. Float Bowl Leak Most 1904 carburetor these days have warped bodies where the float bowl attaches. The biggest problem with the fit of the 1904 floatbowl is not the bowl itself. Rather, it is the presence of so much warpage in the main body surface to which the bowl mounts. Yes, after I get it as straight as it is going to be I dress the gasket with some Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker, but that will do you little good without a reasonable straight main body. Watch a video about fixing the Holley 1904 float bowl leak. Vacuum Check Ball The 1904 carburetors for automatic transmissions have a nylon check ball and retainer clip that goes in the float bowl body where the throttle body mounts to the float bowl. The manual transmissions did not need this. This vacuum port is used to feed the distributor advance vacuum line. Also apply a very small amount of Permatex Anaerobic gasket maker to the washer (some are copper, some are fiber). 1904 Float Bowl The Holley 1904 glass float bowl and metal float bowl are interchangeable. The glass type of float bowl uses special screw clips. You must use these on the glass bowl, or it could break. The Holley 1920 float bowl will also work on the 1904, but the baffle will need to be removed 1st. The baffle simply slides in and out. Adjusting the Accelerator Pump Stroke for Seasonal or Climatic Changes. The accelerating pump stroke can be adjusted for seasonal or climatic changes by changing the position of the pump link in the throttle lever. The hole in the lever nearest the throttle shaft is the normal setting and should be satisfactory for nearly all operating conditions. If a richer accelerating pump discharge is desired for extreme cold weather operation, set the pump link in the outer hole in the throttle lever.http://chheanghout.com/sws/imgs/incanto-sirius-manual.xml Pump link position can be changed by removing the cotter pin at the lower end of the pump link, moving the pump link to the other hole, and re-installing the cotter pin. What is the hole in the bottom of the flange for. This hole feeds the vacuum channel up through the carburetor and feeds the distributor vacuum advance. If your distributor connects to this vacuum port, then you need to make sure the hole has access to the manifold vacuum. Either line up the gasket hole, or cut a slot into the gasket from where the hole is to the center. This will give the vacuum a channel to follow. Contact Us All Rights Reserved. It combines the time-proved By locating the choke plate in the venturi, the elimination of the In addition, the arrangement of the This transparent fuel bowl greatly simplifies trouble shooting and carburetor servicing. The conventional economizer piston and accelerating pump piston have Careful adherence to the procedures This carburetor is The action of the float and of the Fuel in the. Be sure you keep all 2 or 4 screws even. The adjustments are the same except you will adjust to highest engine RPM at idle. Helpful? Question How do I tell what size power valve I need. What causes this? Answer This is usually caused by percolation. This is when the engine is shut off and the engine temperature rises it causes the fuel to boil in the bowl and leak out of the boosters. There are a couple of things you can do to resolve this situation. One is make sure the fuel level is not too high. The heat from the engine will rise into the carburetor at times and will cause the fuel to boil. Installing a phenolic heat spacer between the carburetor and the intake or a heat shield can cure this. These parts will prevent heat from getting to the carburetor and boiling the fuel. Helpful? Question How do I adjust the fuel level on my carburetor?http://afreecountry.com/?q=node/3332With the vehicle running loosen the lock screw on top of the fuel bowl and turn the nut clockwise to lower the level or counter clockwise to bring up the level. You want it to be at the bottom of the sight hole. If you turned it too far down it might bend the tang on the float. If you bent the tang on the float, you'll need to get back to a good starting point. This will get you back to a starting place. Helpful? Question How do I know if a vacuum or mechanical secondary carburetor is best for me. Answer For street cars, the vacuum secondary carburetor works best on mid-weight or heavyweight cars with an automatic transmission. They are more forgiving than a double pumper is because they work by sensing engine load. The mechanical secondary carburetor is best on a lighter car with radical camshaft and a lower gear and manual transmission or on a car that is going to be used for racing purposes. Helpful? Question Why is my engine running rich and my mixture screws do not have effect. Answer The first thing you need to check is your float level. No fuel should run from the sight hole unless you shake the vehicle. Helpful? Question How do I adjust the pump shot on my carburetor?If it is not instant back off the nut on the pump arm 1 full turn counter clockwise then check it again. Do this until it is instant. Helpful? Question I just bought a new carburetor and it has a warning that it will not work with an overdrive transmission. What can I do about this. Answer This warning was placed with the carburetor because if not installed properly with the correct transmission kickdown bracket for the GM 700R4 it will result in premature transmission failure. Helpful? Question How do I tell what size carb I need. Answer You take the engines cubic inches and multiply by the maximum RPM and divide by 3456. If you have an automatic transmission you will need a vacuum sec.http://abqwinair.com/images/canon-mx300-printer-manual.pdfYou can also use our Interactive Carb Selector Tool to help you find the correct carburetor for your particular application.Answer To adjust the fast idle you will need to hold the throttle wide open (without the engine running). Turn it clockwise to speed it up turn it counter clockwise to slow it down. Helpful? Question Where do I hook up my electric choke.Now, Holley EFI products power these cars and are dominating the performance world. Holley products for GM's popular LS engine are dominating the LS scene as well. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies we can give you the edge you need over the competition. Ball-burnished shiny aluminum finish. Black composite fuel bowl It offers enthusiasts a straight-forward carburetor designed to deliver a stable idle, amazingly crisp throttle response and smooth performance. Available in Hand Polished, Tumble Polished or Tumble Polished with Aerospace Composite Bowl for significant heat insulating benefits. Get one today and experience Performance That's Out of This World. The following vehicles are considered Uncontrolled (Non-Emissions Controlled) Vehicles: 1965 and older U.S. manufactured California Certified vehicles 1967 and older U.S. manufactured Federally Certified vehicles 1967 and older Foreign manufactured vehicle The following vehicles are considered Racing Use Only Vehicles: Racing Use Only Vehicles are vehicles that are used exclusively for competition and that are not registered and that may never be used on the street WARNING: It is against the law to install this part on an Emissions Controlled Vehicle The following vehicles are considered Emissions Controlled Vehicles: 1966 and newer U.S. manufactured California Certified vehicles 1968 and newer U.S. manufactured Federally Certified vehicles 1968 and newer Foreign manufactured vehicle If you have a spreadbore style intake manifold, you will need an adapter to install this carburetor.It was put on a 383 stroker roller motor in a 72 c10 that his grand father left him. Anyway the carb runs flawlessly right out of the box and installed with no real modifications. Anyway I'm on here now to try to order another one for my 454 dually project. Thanks for making a great carb!!!! Great carb By Alexander H on April 21, 2020 Great carb started up and ran well out of the box gets decent mileage too and has the sound of a vintage thermoquad or Q jet I plan on buying the calibration kit as I feel the secondaries are a bit rich for my stock 460 Now, Holley EFI products power these cars and are dominating the performance world. Disclaimer: you are responsible for your own safety. I do not profess to be an expert on anything and there are many theories on rebuilding carbs and tuning. I am not stating that my methodology is correct, it's just the way I elected to proceed. If you want to rebuild the carb and tune as recommended by the factory, you would probably be best served by following the factory manuals. My post(s) will be written with the novice in mind and the terminology I use will be based on my experience. To the extent I can locate the component in the manual, I will use the same terminology. Rebuilding this carb is a relatively simple process and even if you have little or no mechanical experience, you should be able to complete the task. If you have rebuilt this carb, you might wish to bypass this post as I think it will be a lengthy post and you will already know the content. If you are aware of more precise terminology or more efficient methodology, by all means, post it. My MM had a significant miss just off idle and I checked for vacuum leaks, the ignition timing, spark plug wires, distributor cap, point gap, vacuum, spark plug gap, ignition advance, ignition voltage, accelerator pump timing, accelerator pump discharge, choke adjustment, choke fast idle cam, fuel screw, throttle linkage, idle setting, and cylinder compression. Other than vacuum, compression and accelerator pump timing, all were within specification. Before you delve into rebuilding the carb, insure that all other components are within specification. Don't be concerned if you don't know how to check the foregoing, read through this post and most of the topics will be discussed in sufficient detail (If I ever finish.) Alternatively, I believe most of the foregoing is discussed in the manuals. To my knowledge, unique things about this model carb specific to the MM include a magnesium fuel bowl, aluminum throttle body, and a vent at the top of the fuel bowl. Be very careful during disassembly and assembly as parts can be very difficult or expensive to obtain. Variations of this carb were used on International Harvester truck and tractors, Fords in the 1960's, and other vehicles. There are good write ups on International Harvester forums and I will post a link when I find it. I will also post a link to a company in Florida that offers a rebuild kit specific to the MM. Before beginning, let engine cool down to room temperature. Disconnect battery. Have fire extinguisher close. Loosen clamp securing air cleaner hose onto carb elbow and remove air cleaner hose. At carb elbow, remove breather to distributor and breather to fording valve. Remove fitting on carb that runs to air cleaner Loosen clamp holding carb elbow to carb and remove carb elbow from carb. Place rag under fuel fitting into carb. Remove vent fitting on carb that runs to the air cleaner. Remove fuel fitting, using wrench to hold the brass fitting stationary while turning the fuel line fitting. Remove throttle linkage at the carb. Remove choke cable. Remove two nuts holding carb to manifold. Remove carb. Tape manifold closed or place clean rag in manifold. Same procedure during assembly. Loosen screws identified in photo below. No need to remove screws completely, just slide choke cable out. Throttle rod can be pried off with a screwdriver. Sequentially remove four screws securing fuel bowl. On assembly, I apply anti sieze to the screw threads and gently hand tighten the screws. I cannot overemphasize that improper installation of the fuel bowl cover will result in leaks. If the cover does not easily remove, gently tap the cover with a rubber mallet, wood block or handle of the screwdriver. Remove the brass fuel fitting and insert a screw driver into the housing. Make certain that the screwdriver does not contact the housing as the threads are fragile and can be damaged. Inspect float for any leaks. Note vent to atmosphere on top of carb bowl. Upon reassembly, make sure the gasket is matched to allow venting. This vent vents to center vent in carb barrel. Inspect float needle and needle seat for any imperfections. The function of the float needle is to stop fuel flow when the float rises to a preset height. The float tab is used to adjust float height, the setting of which will be discussed later. Remove three screws securing enrichment valve actuator cover. Remove cover and enrichment valve actuator. The center vent identified in the photo below is the center vent identified in previous photos in the carb fuel bowl. Remove three short screws and two long screws securing metering block to carb body. Remove metering block. Metering block removed. (Enrichment valve actuator should already be removed.) Examining the carb body, fuel flows through these orifices into the carb barrel. Orifices from left to right correspond with the metering block: fuel pump circuit, Idle and transition circuit, Main and enrichment circuit, and vent to atmosphere. The other side of the metering block (main jet removed). Fuel flows through the metering block, into the carb body and exits the barrel at the locations indicated. Note that when the throttle blade is fully closed, the transition circuit slot continues to meter fuel into the carb barrel. I clean all circuits using compressed air. I typically remove the fuel screw for inspection. The fuel screw should not be bent, galled or otherwise damaged. When removing or installing the fuel screw, be careful not to damage it any way. Main circuit: fuel is metered by the main jet on the metering block, enters the carb body and is discharged into the barrel from the orifice just below the choke blade as shown in the photo above. Enrichment circuit: the enrichment circuit bypasses the main jet in the metering block. When fuel flows through the enrichment circuit, fuel flows through the metering block into the carb body through the main circuit and is discharged into the carb barrel from the main circuit orifice just below the choke blade. The enrichment circuit only flows fuel when low manifold vacuum is present. The poppet valve on the enrichment circuit is depressed by the enrichment circuit actuator and is always open until high manifold vacuum pulls the actuator up and closes the enrichment circuit valve. In operation, when the throttle is open, or the engine is under load, low manifold vacuum results and the enrichment circuit flows extra fuel to meet the air demand. At idle and cruise, high manifold vacuum results and the valve is closed so the engine runs efficiently. I don't know the correct terminology, so either will suffice. As I understand it, the poppet valve is not serviceable, but I believe there is a person on the International Harvester forum that can replace the poppet valve. In fact, there is a lot of good information on the Holley 1904 on the International Harvester forums. Manifold vacuum is picked up by the orifice below the throttle blade, is directed through the carb body to the actuator cover on the top of the actuator and pulls the diaphragm, lifting the actuator and closing the poppet valve. In the photo below, the enrichment valve cover is shown. Manifold vacuum is picked up in the throttle body below the throttle blade, is directed through the carb body to the area indicated in the photo below. The vacuum acts on the diaphragm which moves the actuator up, which closes the poppet valve. Check diaphragm for leaks, hole, tears and replace if necessary. If this circuit does not function correctly, engine will always be running rich. I will discuss checking vacuum and function later. Accelerator pump circuit: The accelerator pump is actuated by a mechanical linkage that is a function of throttle movement. As the throttle arm is moved, the adjustment rod actuates the cam which pushes the accelerator pump plunger. The plunger acts on a diaphragm and causes a ball check valve to close, forcing fuel through the metering block to the carb body to the orifice in the carb barrel. Accelerator pump diaphragm. Make sure there are no holes, leaks or tears in the diaphragm. To disassemble, remove the clip holding the cam onto the carb body, remove the two cotter pins holding the adjusting rod. Upon assembly, I grease the cam pivot. I use compressed air through all orifices. When assembling, the clearance between the plunger and cam must be minimal. I use.005 inch. Clearance is obtained by bending the adjusting rod. The throttle and choke should be fully closed when measuring clearance (photo shows choke open). Often, it is best to set the idle prior to making this adjustment. Be gentle with the adjusting rod, to my knowledge, replacements are not readily available and fabricating a new rod would take a little time. Many times, a hesitation is caused by the accelerator pump actuating too late, so check the clearance carefully. Looking down the barrel of the carb, ideally, fuel should be seen from the accelerator pump orifice as soon as the throttle is actuated. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this. Below is a photo of the throttle shaft, idle adjustment screw, choke fast idle cam and choke shaft. There should be very little, if any, free play in the throttle shaft bushings or the choke shaft bushings. The choke fast idle cam causes the throttle blade to open when the choke cable is pulled; thus, resulting in a fast idle. Upon installation of the carb, make sure that the choke is all the way open so that the idle adjustment screw seats on the flat part of the fast idle cam; otherwise, you will experience an artificially high idle. At the same time, make sure that the choke cable does not bind and holds the choke all the way open. I am not going to cover reassembly of the carb, with the exception of setting the float, as you can reverse the disassembly instructions. Below is a disassembled accelerator pump return spring assembly. To disassemble, slightly compress the spring and shake the ball bearing out of the hole in the plunger. To reassemble, turn the hole in the plunger to align with the notch of the plunger retainer, compress the spring, drop the ball bearing in the hole and release the plunger. I will discuss verifying the float level in the tuning section which will follow later. To set the float, orient the carb upside down, push the float (toward the throttle body)until the valve closes and measure the distance between the carb float and the top (away from the throttle body) of the carb fuel bowl. Bend the adjustment tab on the float until you achieve the desired setting. Install the carb on the engine, insuring that all mating surfaces are clean, that the carb spacer is in good condition and that all gaskets are in good condition. Attach all fuel, vacuum and vent lines. Attach throttle rod and confirm adjusted to close throttle blade completely. Attach choke cable and confirm choke adjusted to open all the way. Tuning. I'll set forth a method to quickly check the fuel level in the carb bowl while the mm is running. The posts above show the vacuum diaphragm for the economizer valve on top of the carb secured by three screws. Remove the vacuum diaphram and associated hardware. Have a fire extinguisher handy. Have an assistant and prior to starting the engine instruct the assistant to immediately turn the engine off upon your signal. Signal the assistant to start the engine. Observe the fuel level in the bowl at idle. If the fuel level continues to climb up and out of the carb bowl, one or more of the above referenced issues may need to be addressed. I suggest you remove the carb and inspect per above posts. Start the engine again. If no fuel comes out of the vent, try different rpms. If still no fuel out the vent, try holding different levels of rpms until fuel comes out the vent. Then disassemble and inspect carb. At this point, I would guess that one or more vents are clogged, but wouldn't rule out other causes. When I operate the mm at elevations above 6000', I find the mm runs very rich, producing black smoke. I remove the vacuum diaphragm and economizer valve actuator and use a regular gasket with the cover, allowing the economizer valve to stay closed causing a lean condition because no extra fuel flows through the economizer valve. Caution: operating without an economizer valve actuator can cause a lean condition which can instantly destroy your engine. In fact, I do not recommend this mode of operation for anyone other than me. If you elect to try this mode of operation, do so only when you see black smoke out your tailpipe, which for me occurs at approximately 6000' of elevation. Did you deduce the cause of your off idle miss ? ? Same symptom for my Mite. New motor with a NOS carb has a rough stumbling off idle. Good vacuum, idle circuit and fuel adjustment work normally. Great power past mid throttle and above. Fuel system is new: tank, lines, fuel pump. Ignition ruled out. Timing has nominal effect. Next step will be to replace the economizer bellows as a trial test before a teardown. Thanks, Mark In the interim, confirm that the accelerator pump is actuating immediately upon moving the throttle linkage. Then look down the throat of the carb and confirm fuel spray immediately upon movement of the throttle linkage. I have found that some metering blocks are clogged and that no amount of soaking in carb cleaner and pressurizing with compressed air will clear those metering blocks. I believe I have located the correct metering block plugs and will disassemble those metering blocks to perform a thorough cleaning to determine whether that is contributing to an off idle stumble. I advanced the timing to 9 degrees initial advance and that, along with the carb rebuild, helped solve the off idle stumble. My friend's mite had the same problem, I went through the same process, and he no longer has an off idle stumble. Good luck and update on your progress. Mike Accel pump is spray strong. The stumbling occurs at static RPMs, 800-1500. Compression is uniform in all cylinders, timing light has clean spark triggers on all cylinders when stumbling. Have swapped out with my spares for for coil, wires, plugs, 151 electronic 'Swiss' module.no change. May find some decayed rubber bits in the metering body or perhaps the main jet. I read the holley 1904 manual.After I study the manual, I will have to edit my posts accordingly. Thanks for posting. I forgot to mention that I arrived at 9 degrees initial advance using a vacuum gauge. I would suggest using a vacuum gauge to tune, as each mite will tune differently depending on altitude, etc. I had timed by a jumbo vacuum gauge prior. Took apart the carb and cleaned, it was clean inside with channels in the metering body and vents clear. Float level was lowered based on the info in the 17 page IHC thread on this carb. I richened the idle circuit quite a bit and added more timing advance which smoothed the shudder and hesitation until the throttle passed through the idle transition slot. It runs well enough for now after it's warmed up. The timing mark I had painted is incorrect; will need to recheck vs TDC with a dial gauge. May try a larger gap on the spark plugs. FWIW, There is a Argentina made replacement 1904 carb available through several sellers for those with damaged carbs. mark. Oct 28 - Dec 2Our payment security system encrypts your information during transmission. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. To hide it, choose Ship in Amazon Packaging at Checkout. To hide it, choose Ship in Amazon Packaging at Checkout. Used: Very GoodPackaging will be damaged.Something we hope you'll especially enjoy: FBA items qualify for FREE Shipping and Amazon Prime. Learn more about the program. Please try again.Please try again.Please try again later.Not only will you see an increase in performance, your engine will idle and run better than it does with that old worn out factory carburetor. They are a direct bolt-on replacement, which means no adaptors or modifications are required (works with the stock linkage in most cases). Most of the time they’ll work right out of the box; however minor adjustments may be required during installationInternal parts such as jets and metering rods are identified, to ensure they remain with the original castings, where variations may have occurred at the manufacturing level. This process ensures that original flow characteristics are maintainedShow details Please try your search again later.If any other Third part is selling our carburetor as KIPA Brand, They are fakes. If you have any question on our KIPA Carburetor, Please message us, Thanks these NEW bolt-on replacement carburetors are an excellent choice for any inline six application. Not only will you see an increase in performance, your engine will idle and run better than it does with that old worn out factory carburetor. Most of the time they’ll work right out of the box; however minor adjustments may be required during installation (idle speed, etc) Now you can eliminate those problems by replacing that old worn-out carburetor. KIPA Carburetor For Ford 1957 1960 1962 144 170 200 223 6-Cyl 4-Cyl 1 Barrel Replace 1904 holley Manual Choke All base, KIPA Carburetor's body and air horns are stamped prior to disassembly to ensure units are reassembled with the proper “companion” parts.Internal parts such as jets and metering rods are identified, to ensure they remain with the original castings, where variations may have occurred at the manufacturing level. This process ensures that original flow characteristics are maintained. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. Amazon Customer 5.0 out of 5 stars That had been sitting in the woods for the last 20 years. Got the engine running, but the original holley 1904 was history. Bought this as the replacement and she fired right up. Didn't have to swap the carb bases for the original with the power valve. Worked right out of the box. Took her for the first drive and was quite peppy with this new carb. Only issue I had was the bottom of the air cleaner was barely hitting the choke linkage. And the choke plate being more square shaped was barely hitting the inside flange of the air cleaner. A little finessing with a punch and hammer, quickly solved those issues. Overall, very satisfied with the quality and the price. Would definitely buy again.I knew ahead of time that the linkage was opposite of my existing setup but I was willing to tackle that endeavor. Upon installation I found that the fuel bowl float was sticking and was not allowing fuel into the bowl, (either from factory or shipping).