how to do a manual conversion
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how to do a manual conversionPlease upgrade for a much nicer experience. This scenario tends to happen a lot: Someone sees a car for sale at a great price and they decide to buy it. Then they either realise its an automatic, or they knew it was auto and planned to convert it. Now it’s time to stop saying and start doing. At the rear there are two more bolts - one in the floor, the other in the tunnel for the drivetrain. The front are different length from the rear, so don’t get them mixed up. Fold the seat all the way forwards, then tilt it back - there should be a wire running out from the floor and into the seat. This is the seatbelt sensor and can be unclipped at the middle where it is ziptied to the seat. Lift the seat up and pull it out through the driver’s door - be careful that the rails don’t touch anything since they are metal and scratch the plastic trim very easily. Therefore it should be replaced by a manual brake pedal as it may get in the way of the clutch pedal. Marked in red are the bolts to hold in the brake pedal (there may be another bolt at the very top). Marked in orange is the pin that connects the pedal to the master cylinder (and the hidden bolt at the very top). Marked in yellow are the bolts that hold the accelerator pedal. There are two sensors on the automatic’s brake pedal - one that tells when the brake is pressed, and one tells the auto transmission that you can put the car into gear. These can both be unplugged, but the brake light sensor must be plugged back into the new brake pedal, and not the clutch pedal. The image above shows the locations of the screws holding the dashboard in. Pull on the throttle and slide the stud out through the side. Unbolt the accelerator pedal and pull the throttle cable through the firewall. To install the new accelerator, run the throttle cable through the firewall then bolt in the pedal. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle body after.http://nuipl.com/userfiles/elka-x50-manual.xml
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In the photo above, there are two studs marked in red, and the master cylinder marked in orange. In a Nissan Skyline, there is a blank cut out of the insulation shaped perfectly, and the perfect place, for the clutch master cylinder (refer to picture below). Note that there should be an air condition vent in the way - it is screwed into the dashboard via a strip of metal that is very hard to access. I cut mine to pieces with a dremel and took it out in parts. As you can see in the photo above, I removed the whole piece and marked the area on the firewall, using the centre as a template. Place the clutch pedal in the space and mark the areas to be drilled for the studs, and the area to cut with the holesaw. The brake and accelerator pedals will fit straight into the existing holes. The clutch master has two holes where the studs from the pedal fit through - the pedal and master clamp onto the firewall. Bolt the master into place, then attach the pushrod from the inside. There is another bolt to the right (off-screen) that bolts into the dashboard. It is basically the same as the clutch pedal. Bolt it into place and connect to the brake master. The steering rack will often get in the way, making the job difficult, however you can get through without dismantling the rack. First, you need to drain the fluid out - there is a bung at the bottom which should get most of the fluid out. It is not right at the bottom, so there will be a bit of auto fluid still inside. The orange arrow points to the bung where you fill the gearbox. There are two screws near the top, while the rest is held in by plastic clips. Unplug any electrical wires - in this case, the steering wheel’s control switch, the cigarette lighter, and the park sensor. The auto-shifter will come out through the bottom with the gearbox. The automatic driveshaft has a smaller diameter than a manual driveshaft, so will not fit into a manual gearbox.http://www.downdistrictdtc.co.uk/filestore/empirical-labs-distressor-user-manual.xml Remember to unplug the wires on top of the auto box, and remove the hydraulic lines and dipstick. Place a transmission lift (or a jack with a block of wood) under the transmission and undo the ten bolts around the bellhousing, and four bolts holding the crossmember in place. Pull out the front half of the driveshaft and lower the auto gearbox (might have to pull backwards while doing this). When the motor is running the crankshaft turns and, being attached to it, the flywheel turns. Remember to clean the flywheel with brake cleaner before use, then wipe off with a dry cloth. This will get rid of any microscopic dust and dirt, and remove any clearcoat. If the gearbox uses a one-piece sandwich plate like a skyline, you probably want to hold it in place between the flywheel and motor before you attach the flywheel. If the sandwich plate is in two parts, you can add it after (or so I’ve heard). There are three studs around the outside of the flywheel - these are guide pins that allow you to correctly attach the pressure plate. Line up the six bolt-holes in the centre with the bolt holes in the crank and tighten them in at about 128nm. The flat side presses against the flywheel. When the teeth on the pressure plate are pressed, they act like a pivot to lift the clutch away from the flywheel. Remember to grease the spigot bearing as it acts as a guide for the shaft in the gearbox. In the step about the flywheel I mentioned the guide pins - in the photo above, I have pointed out the guide holes. They are a bit smaller than the bolt holes. If the clutch does not line up properly the first time, rotate it and try the next guide pin. Once you have it lined up, and it sits flat against the flywheel, bolt it in place with the nine bolts around the perimeter. Torque them down to about 40nm. The yellow arrow points to the release bearing - a metal ring that presses against the teeth of the pressure plate.http://www.drupalitalia.org/node/78750 The red arrows point to the clutch fork inside and outside - the clutch slave pushes on this which in turn pushes on the release bearing. The orange arrow shows the mounting bolts for the slave cylinder. Before you connect the clutch slave to the bellhousing, screw in the clutch line, connect the other end to the bottom of the clutch master cylinder, fill with brake fluid and bleed the system. Also, before placing the release bearing, give it a good coating of grease so it does not stick. While you can use an R32 gearbox in an R34, vice versa, the wiring loom is different - even for an R33 and R34. If possible, try to get the loom from the exact same car as yours. The same applies to the driveshaft. Each generation of Skyline uses a different length, but they can still be cut, welded and balanced. I have labelled the plugs on the gearbox to the best of my knowledge. If you don’t have the correct wiring loom, you can still use the automatic loom, and bridge the inhibitor (sensor to tell when the auto is in park). If this is the case, the best option is to go to an auto electrician - I searched for months and tried tracing back the loom and in the end an electrician got it working in a couple hours, including the reverse lights and reverse beeps. On a Skyline, the gearbox loom ends on the side of the fusebox and most engine components plug straight in. This can be difficult as the shaft in the gearbox must line up exactly with the clutch, and the bellhousing must line up with the sandwich plate and engine block. I found that on my gearbox, the sandwich plate could sit almost perfectly along the groove of the bellhousing. As far as I can remember, the longest bolts were at the top and the shortest bolts at the bottom. Do not lower the transmission lift until you have bolted in the crossmember. As previously stated, you can get the driveshaft cut and welded if it is not the correct length. Once the driveshaft is in place, you can fill the gearbox with gearbox oil.http://emserchoachi.com/images/bprs-manuale.pdf The bung is near the top of the gearbox, so you will need a pump. However I was able to add the docking ring and rubber insulation. If you haven’t replaced the driver’s seat or the bottom of the dashboard, now is a good time to - and don’t forget the seatbelt sensor. You can use the automatic ECU and dash cluster as long and everything is wired properly. Congratulations! You now drive a proper car. Start here. You can find links to relevant notices and more information about ExxonMobil’s privacy program here. Help on switching browsers can be found online. Click here to update settings. The big pieces are often the pedals, linkage and transmission mounts. UsingSticks weren’t nearly as common asHowever, the aftermarket has kept pace, andThe additional width of theThe geometryWorse yet, shortening it and repositioning theTo make matters worse, the genuine part numberMost parts dealers have aFor the most part, the remainingHeavy-duty accessory hardware such asJust like theTo install them, the stockIt’s a simple process where a clip isThe automatic bits are replaced byYou’ll note that in thisThat’s how the factory did it.Some cars cameThese pieces are readily available inWhen installing new pedal pads, it’s aBecause of this, physically swapping gearboxesExamples include PowerglidesIt was almost like Chevrolet engineers envisioned theTurbohydramatic 400 examples, non-TH400 examples and big block versions. The most difficult cross members to locate are the big block Turbo 400The good news is these pieces are readilyAnd so are all of the other transmissionAftermarket solid versions are available, but it has been our experienceCoupled withThe result is often broken mount ears onStick with the OE-style rubber hardware. Your transmission will be muchYou just have to know what fits what. For aOnce removed, you can reinstall the stick shift pedals (reverse order). In the case of a big block, the engine and transmission are actually offset slightly to gain clearance.http://xn--80akij1ajew.xn--p1ai/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1628019de610d6---browning-buckmark-reflex-sight-manual.pdf As a result, transmission cross members differ between big and small block cars. Stock type reinforced rubber mounts, such as this pair, are highly recommended. Converting your vehicle from auto to manual may be easy to do or very difficult to do, but the end result is always astonishingly fun. Request a Quote How. If they don’t exist, one can attempt to repurpose existing parts or fabricate new from scratch. Generically, the steps included in a manual conversion include: Removal: Remove auto transmission and related components (bellhousing, torque converter, flywheel). This will require also removing your driveshaft and transmission crossmember. Installation: Install manual transmission and related components (bellhousing flywheel, clutch, clutch release mechanism). This will require also installing a driveshaft and transmission crossmember. Now before you start thinking this whole job is easy, the driveshaft and transmission crossmember you’re installing are most likely different from the ones you removed. You’ll probably also have to cut a hole in your floor for the new shifter to poke through. Chances are you won’t be done that easily. You may also have to address: Check Engine Light: Reprogram your Engine Control Module (ECM), or Powertrain Control Module (PCM) if so equipped. If you’ve got a computer in there, it’s not gonna be happy without the automatic transmission reporting for duty. Just how unhappy can be correlated with age: the newer the car, means the newer the computer, means the more unhappy it will be. Older cars with a computer for a brain may just shrug with the auto gone, or maybe the computer will just yawn. But not those new ones, no sir or ma’am. Some of those new ones will even have a body control module (BCM) that’s ticked off or at the very least slightly confused. Drivability: You may have to change your final drive ratio, aka your rear gear ratio in a RWD vehicle.www.cn-zsm.com/d/files/columbia-law-review-publishable-notes-manual.pdf Whether or not you need to do this depends primarily on the gear ratios in your manual transmission as well as your current final drive ratio; some transmissions, like the Tremec T56, are geared on the taller side, so a “lower” final drive ratio helps to compensate and keep your engine in the power zone throughout normal driving. And normal is a relative term of course; since you’re on our website, normal means fun. Speedometer: Do something to get your speedometer to read accurately. Your current speedometer, auto trans, and new manual trans are each either electrically or mechanically operated. We’ll save the various potential issues for another time, but in the meantime there are a variety of options to get your speedo accurate and with the advent of GPS speedometers many people simply go that route. Pun intended. What if Parts “Don’t Exist”. Well, this is where come in. We planted the seed for Three Pedals back in 1996 when we created a clutch pedal for a 1991 Chevy Caprice cop car with a 1994 Camaro LT1 engine and T56 6 speed, and today we design and manufacture race-ready, street-friendly pedal assemblies that are engineered to fit specific applications for an OEM-quality feel. If your vehicle was originally available with a manual transmission, the factory parts are generally a good starting point, unless these do not meet your needs. If you’re looking for one that you can’t find we’d love to hear from you. Naturally, other companies may have the parts you need, and even more naturally, you and some friends could hot rod up some parts. Why? With regards to why to switch from an auto trans to a manual trans, we’re inclined to reply to this question with “Get off our website!” But, we are here to inform, not to judge. So, get off our website, and go drive a car with a manual transmission. Ask a friend, take a class, just do it. If you’ve driven a manual and are still asking “Why?http://bascobrunswick.com.au/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1628019e31b0f3---Browning-buck-mark-pistol-manual.pdf,” we can comfortably say that we’ve ticked the box and have informed you, so now please get off our website already before we judge you. You’ll find some kindred spirits over here. Turning all that stuff takes up some energy. Manual transmission cars generally lose 12-14 of engine power through parasitic loss, whereas automatic transmission cars generally lose 16-18. But that’s not why most people switch from auto to manual. Who? We offer installation on everything we sell, so of course we can turn the wrenches for you. We are honored to have had the opportunity to work on cars that come to us from all over the country, including from about as far away as you can get while staying in the US — California (we’re in Virginia). If you’re not within driving distance, we can help you to arrange transport. Please contact us for a quote. We design our pedals and conversion kits to be something the average home mechanic can pull off in their home garage, so long as you have certain tools. Certain steps are much easier with a second set of hands, all the more so if they’re an experienced set of hands that are also attached to a friend. When we ship our parts out, they’re at times installed by a shop closer to the customer. Your favorite mechanic may be willing to install our parts, and we can share our step-by-step instructions to put their minds at ease. Please contact us if you need a local referral. Is it legal? So long as your end product has a functioning speedometer and reverse lights, most states don’t pay any attention to whether your car has an automatic or manual transmission. Changing your engine is a different story, not covered in this FAQ. Request a quote for specific advice on your application. What’s so Great about Overdrive. We like overdrive, and most people agree. When making the effort to convert to a manual it makes sense to also go with a transmission that offers overdrive.http://www.iso-clean.fr/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1628019f03f7db---browning-bt-99-plus-manual.pdf Overdrive reduces your engine’s RPM at higher vehicle speeds, like on the highway, and therefore overdrive generally helps to increase MPG. In racier setups, for example with a more aggressive final drive ratio, overdrive can make the difference between a livable freeway cruiser and something you wouldn’t ever want to take on a long trip. Getting a little technical, overdrive means that the revolutions per minute (RPM) of your transmission output shaft are greater than the RPM of your engine. Many manual conversions are done with the exact same engine as the car had with the automatic transmission. There are a few pieces that attach to the engine that change with a manual conversion, but in most cases there is no need to change the engine itself. Regardless of what your plan is with your engine, as long as you have a plan we can help you find the right parts to make it work. Newer transmissions are frequently easier to connect to newer engines, but sometimes it makes no difference. When it comes to connecting things that were never connected by your car manufacturer, we have a wide selection of adapter bellhousings and we can fit a lot of things, and we know who to talk to in order to get a custom bellhousing made up, so hit us up with your needs.a Which Transmission Do I Use. Which transmission to choose is a question we deal with quite often. If you’re not sure which way to go, we’d love to start the conversation with you. In the meantime, we summarize our thoughts here. From there we can make suggestions and fine-tune as needed based on budget and other considerations. We are now touching on the tip of a different iceberg, so more on this in a separate tech article. Bench seats can be a challenge, but most combinations can be figured out. We routinely source new, used, and rebuilt components for customers and we can help you find the best way to achieve your goals within your budget. Sup With Transmission Crossmembers.cmf-inc.com/ckfinder/userfiles/files/columbia-jailhouse-lawyers-manual.pdf Your transmission crossmember, aka transmission support, is a removable piece that supports the tail-end of your transmission. Manual transmissions tend to be shaped differently than automatic transmissions, hence the frequent need for a different crossmember. Click here for our transmission crossmember products. The crossmember must support the weight of a part of the drivetrain and must withstand the forces acting upon it. Crossmembers are ideally tucked up as high as possible for ground clearance and exhaust clearance, but at the proper height of course to maintain the proper driveline angle. If you’ve changed your engine it is possible that you’ve also now moved the rear face of the block, which would then impact your transmission crossmember location. We design and manufacturer our crossmembers for certain applications, and we carry a full line of crossmembers to help you fit just about any manual transmission into just about any vehicle. Where Do You Find a Clutch Pedal. The astute among you sense that we’re getting to one of our specialties here. If your car was available with a manual transmission, then generally speaking it’s easiest to start with that clutch pedal assembly. See “Hydraulic vs. Mechanical” below. If your car was never available with a manual transmission, we of course offer some options for you. If our products aren’t what you are looking for, or need something beyond what we offer, you can adapt a universal style pedal from Wilwood or Tilton, or adapt a factory setup designed for a different application. There are some key geometric variables to get right, and beyond that there are ergonomic, structural strength, and hydraulic fluid routing concerns, but all are solvable with some ingenuity, a drill, a welder, some duct tape, and a pinch or heavy dollop of JB Weld. If it takes more than 1 package of JB Weld you should start over. But What About Them Ergonomics Man. When you hand your keys to a friend so they can test drive your car, you don’t want to hear yourself saying things like, “remember that, in my car, you have to move your left foot a little to the right and your right foot has to come up a bit.” If you do, then you obviously didn’t use one of our clutch pedals. Clutch pedal ergonomics are important, and we really sweat these details when designing our parts and retrofitting existing parts. Our clutch pedals are designed to be race-ready and street-friendly. Race-ready means our pedals are durable; precision construction and tested designs that stand up to the rigors of racing. Street-friendly means that your left leg will not be punished on the street, so no need to add leg day to your gym routine. There are several considerations to getting the ergonomics just right: Lateral spacing: How far is it from the brake pedal. Measuring center-to-center, modern cars like the latest Chevy Camaro have a clutch-to-brake spacing of approximately 5”. Fore-aft spacing: Is the clutch pedal higher than the brake pedal or equal. We generally design them to be equal but many cars come from the factory with a higher clutch pedal. The amount of stroke is related to the pedal leverage ratio and other mechanical details. Pedal leverage ratio: The length of the clutch pedal arm divided by the distance from the clutch pedal arm pivot to the master cylinder pushrod pivot. With a hydraulic clutch a leverage ratio of 6:1 is the common wisdom for a streetable setup. For example, if the clutch pedal arm is 12” in length, the pivot point for the hydraulic master cylinder would be 2” from the pedal arm pivot point. A bigger leverage ratio: Reduces the effort required to press the clutch pedal Requires more pedal travel, or “pedal stroke” A smaller leverage ratio: Increases pedal effort Reduces pedal stroke, and if you’re good it makes gear changes faster Brake pedal: Next up we consider the location of the brake pedal foot pad. We are big fans of using the “heel-and-toe” technique for downshifting, so all of our pedal assemblies are designed to set you up just right for that, whether you have big or small feet. This illustration from GM’s crate engine guide offers specifics for the location of the brake pedal relative to the accelerator pedal. And we assume “tunner” refers to the floor tunnel. We couldn’t make this stuff up, we promise. What is a Clutch Release Mechanism. To divide the world of clutch release mechanisms, hydraulic vs.We are using this broad term to include clutch forks, slave cylinders, throwout bearings, and hydraulic release bearings, as well as other related devices that we have yet to identify right here. Hydraulic release bearings are also referred to as concentric slave cylinders and hydraulic throwout bearings, but we like HRB. What’s the Difference Between Hydraulic and Mechanical Clutches. To get to the punchline, hydraulics are where it’s at. We have seen many poorly-designed setups and those don’t count. All of our pedal designs utilize hydraulic systems only for the following benefits over a mechanical clutch: Superior clutch pedal feel: Hydraulic circuits are closed, so any feedback from the clutch mechanism is felt in the pedal. Just like with brakes, experienced drivers can detect feedback via the pedal, making engagement and disengagement more predictable. Additionally, any issues are also more readily communicated to the driver. Reduced Pedal Effort: This is part of superior feel, and in particular, if we hold all other variables constant, just changing from mechanical to hydraulic will usually take less pedal pressure to operate. In other words, your left leg will not be nearly as punished with a well-designed hydraulic system. No Maintenance: Just like your hydraulic disc brakes, hydraulic clutch systems self-adjust as friction material wears down so there is no maintenance required between clutch changes. With your brakes, the pads are a friction material wear component; with your clutch, the clutch disc friction material wears down. Mechanical clutch systems require periodic adjustment in order to take up the slack that occurs as the friction material wears down. Now the down sides, or perceived down sides of a hydraulic system as compared to a mechanical system: Retrofitting Can Be Challenging: There are key geometric relationships that have to be spot-on in order for things to work well over the long haul. If a master cylinder is mounted to something that is not rigid, the repeated cycling of the clutch pedal can prematurely cause master cylinder failure. And we mean way prematurely. Bleeding Hydraulics: This scares most people. But it shouldn’t. We will be publishing tech articles and videos that will ideally eliminate any fears you have. Leaks Can Be Tough to Find: Hydraulic clutch systems operate at approximately 1,200 PSI. This is in contrast to an LS fuel injection system which runs at 58 PSI. The required hoses and fittings must be able to withstand this pressure, and the tiniest of leaks will be found by some of those 1,200 PSI. Stainless braided hoses with a PTFE liner, as required for this level of pressure, are easily kinked and perforated. Further, any gunk on an AN fitting flare can prevent the male and female flare cones from properly seating. We are using the term “mechanical” to refer to z-bar setups as well as the cable-actuated setups found on relatively recent Ford Mustangs. If you want to retain a z-bar setup, you may have issues if you change the engine as the z-bar generally rotates on a stud connected to your engine, so any change there creates a problem to solve. Listed below are the components of a hydraulic clutch system. Master cylinder: When you depress the clutch pedal you are compressing the master cylinder, which actuates the release mechanism via hydraulic pressure, just like your brakes. Hydraulic Release Bearing: “HRB” is a common form of release mechanism, or hydraulic reactor, the bearing extends in length as the pedal is depressed (which compresses the master cylinder); most setups offer proportionate reaction, though resistance is felt through the pedal as the effort against the clutch pressure plate increases. Most modern manual transmissions utilize a HRB, and we generally specify our kits with one as well. Certain applications only offer a clutch fork setup. “Hydraulic Release Bearing” is also referred to as “concentric slave cylinder” and “hydraulic throwout bearing”. Slave Cylinder and Clutch Fork: This is an alternative release mechanism to the HRB. Whereas a HRB contacts the pressure plate fingers directly (with a thrust washer in between), in a clutch fork setup the tips of the fork go around a conventional release bearing, and this bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers. The other end of the fork is activated by a slave cylinder, and the fork pivots on a specific pivot point. The pivot point is frequently a ball stud or t-stud setup. High pressure hose: Connects the master cylinder to the HRB or slave cylinder. Generally -3AN or -4AN size, always high pressure AN hose not the standard AN hose. High pressure AN hose is also used in brake lines and other hydraulic circuits where pressures routinely reach 1,200 PSI or more. This hose has a Teflon liner inside of the stainless braided sleeving making the hose more rigid than typical AN hose rated for fuel or oil pressure. Low pressure hose: Connects the fluid reservoir to the master cylinder. Fluid reservoir: Plastic or aluminum reservoir that holds the juice, usually DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. For clutch systems a 4 oz.The table below compares component details between Hydraulic Release Bearing setups and Slave Cylinder and Clutch Fork setups: Hydraulic Clutch System Primary Components Clutch Pedals Have Electronics. Here is a rundown of the key electrical things that a clutch pedal might elicit. Neutral safety switch: Car won’t start unless you’ve got the clutch pedal depressed Cruise control cancel switch: If you’ve got cruise control, you want any clutch pedal movement to automatically cancel the cruise control, just as any brake pedal movement does Clutch position sensor: Newer cars tend to consolidate these two functions into one clutch position sensor switch, which informs the ECU of where in the stroke the clutch pedal is. The clutch position sensor data can also be analyzed and compared with things like expected and actual transmission rotational speed, so some of these new cars will actually warn drivers to stop riding the clutch pedal. There are some cooler things it can do, but they’re hard to retrofit. Click here for our clutch pedal electronics products. For Whom the Bellhousing Tolls. The bellhousing connects your transmission to your engine and lines up your transmission input shaft with your crankshaft. Fore-aft spacing of the bellhousing must position your transmission close enough for the input shaft to be supported by the pilot bushing or bearing in your crankshaft but not so close as to cause interference. Click here for our bellhousing products. We’re never really sure if it’s bellhousing or bell housing, but we go with bellhousing. Back to the important stuff, there are a ton of factory and aftermarket bellhousings out there, so many engine-transmission combinations are figured out already. If you’re trying an unusual combination of transmission and engine, it’s quite possible that one doesn’t exist, and in that case you could make your own or get a custom one built by a specialist company. Contact us if you need help obtaining a custom bellhousing. A dial indicator on a magnetic base is used to verify concentricity. Offset dowel pins are available to correct relatively minor variances. The flatness of your bellhousing is very important.