how do i manually turn on a computer power supply
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how do i manually turn on a computer power supplyIt's really very simple. This is an ATX Power Supply for a typical modern computer. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 1: Jumping Pins Looking down on the main ATX connector with the locking tab facing up. Jump the green and black wire, they are the pins 3 and 4 counting from the right. I spliced and soldered in a switch to make it convenient to turn on and off. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 2: Video of the Process Here is a video of the process for those who like to view it. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Share it with us! I Made It! Recommendations All Purpose Shop Cart What are some applications would you apply it to. I would try to use it with a 'smart plug' and activate remotely. Ideas? 0 EdwinM73 Hope i helped you all: ) 0 ronanry So it is necessary to have a switch on the whole time. Post Comment Categories Circuits. Standard ATX power supplies aren't designed to turn on unless they are properly connected to a motherboard. This helps to ensure that they can't power up and damage computer components if the plug isn't fully connected or connected the right way. However, if you're looking to test components, want to put a large number of hard drives in a case to expand your office server's capacity, or need more power to cool a financial modeling workstation, there is a way to use a computer power supply when you don't have the motherboard installed. All that you need is some wire and a single-pole switch that stays on or off when you flip it or press its button -- an inexpensive light switch is fine unless you want something more aesthetically pleasing or easier to mount. 1 Cut two lengths of wire that will be long enough to connect to your switch and to the 20-pin power connector coming off of your power supply. 2 Strip the insulation off of one end of each wire, leaving enough wire to wrap around your switch's terminal.http://hidramic.com/fotos/how-to-save-a-password-in-chrome-manually.xml
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On the other end, strip just enough wire to go into the much-smaller terminals on your power supply's 20- or 24-pin motherboard connector. 3 Loosen the screw on one of your switch's terminals, wrap the longer end of bare wire around it and use your screwdriver to re-tighten the terminal. Repeat the process with the other wire and the other terminal. There should be two empty terminals to its left. Insert the other wire into the terminal directly to the right of the first wire. You should have two empty terminals, two terminals with a wire in them, then six or eight empty terminals, depending on if it is a 20- or 24-pin connector to the right of them. The power supply will turn on and you can now use it to power devices or for testing purposes. Warnings Do not work with your power supply while it is plugged into the wall. You could damage your power supply, damage other connected components or be electrocuted. Tips Once the wires from the switch are connected to the power supply and you have confirmed that everything is working, you can solder them in place or use electrical tape to secure them for a more permanent solution. You can also permanently leave your power supply on by running a single wire between the two terminals. The site requires javascript to be enabled for the best user experience. For instance, a computer power supply can make a great bench power supply for your workshop. There are already a lot of tutorials online that show how to convert an old computer power supply into a bench power supply, but most of these designs require you to permanently modify it. Any ATX power supply can be plugged into the adapter. The result is a high capacity power supply that can output 3.3V, 5V, 12V and -12V. It regulates the voltages by rapidly connecting and disconnecting the load circuit (switched-mode power supply).Here are a couple that you need to know about: This is controlled by the green “power on” wire.http://kitchensofdiablo.com/upload/how-to-save-a-password-on-firefox-manually.xml Connecting this wire to ground (any black wire) will allow the power supply to turn on. Without this load, the output voltages may vary significantly from the specified voltages or the power supply might shut itself off. In a computer, the current used by the motherboard is sufficient to meet these requirements. If your power supply has a minimum output requirement, you can meet this by connecting a large power resistor across the output terminals. This is discussed in the steps below. If Necessary, Add a 10W Resistor to Meet the Minimum Load Requirement 11. Add a 12V DC Power Outlet (optional) 12. Add a USB Power Outlet (optional) 13. Add Labels For Each Pair of Terminals If you connect this wire to ground (any black wire) the power supply will turn on. To make the connections easier to identify, I used colored markers to color code each slot on the 20 pin connector. Solder the wires to each connector. It is easier if you select pins that are a little spaced out from each other. I also used the same colored wires to help keep track of them. It is easiest to do this at the edge where the two parts come together. Hold the connector up to the side of the housing and mark the edges. Then using a sharp knife, cut along the outline. Then I drilled holes that where just big enough for the mounting screws. I also drilled a hole for the power switch on the right side. Once all the holes are drilled, insert the switch and the power terminals and fasten them in place. This compound comes in two parts; squeeze out an equal amount from each tube, then mix them together thoroughly. Apply the mixture all around the connector and let it sit overnight to fully cure. I used a small push button switch to make this connection. Solder the green wire from the 20 pin connector to one side of the switch, then solder the second green wire to the other side of the switch. To help keep them insulated, I cover the connections with heat shrink tubing. The red terminals are for the positive 3.https://formations.fondationmironroyer.com/en/node/80203V, 5V and 12V connections; the black terminals are for ground. Insert the post of each terminal into the holes and tighten them in place with their screws. The easiest way to keep this neat and organized is to make the connections with crimp spade connectors. Attached one to the end of each wire. I also connected the wire from the power switch to the nearest black terminal. I connected the rest of the wires in ascending order according to their voltages. To test if your power supply has this requirement, press the power button and wait for a few minutes. If it shuts itself off, then you know that your power supply has a minimum output requirement. To take care of this, you can add a power resistor between the 5V terminal and ground. In most cases, a 10 watt 10 ohm resistor will work. In very rare cases, you may also have minimum output requirements on the 12V pin and the 3.3V pin. This will require additional power resistors. These power resistors create a lot of heat, so if you add a power resistor, make sure that your project housing has adequate ventilation. In some cases you may even need to add a small PC fan to help dissipate the heat. I added a 12V DC outlet. Start by drilling a hole in the side of the housing big enough for the barrel on the DC outlet. Connect the outside terminal on the 12V DC outlet to one on the ground terminals (black wire) from the power supply. This will let you run any device that is powered by a USB port. To add this kind of connector, I recommend using a USB extension cord. Cut the cord in half — we want to use the piece with the female connector on the end. Next, separate the internal wires at the end. Strip the insulation off of the ends of the red and black wires and add a spade connector to each one. Connect the red wire from the USB cable to the red wire from the power supply. Connect the black wire from the USB cable to the black wire from the power supply. Once the wires are connected, mount it to the side of the housing.http://www.compass-it.com/images/boss-pw-10-manual.pdf Trace the outline of the USB connector onto the side of the housing, then use a sharp knife or a rotary tool to cut it out. You can glue the USB connector to the side of the housing. I recommend using JB Weld, just like you did for the 20 pin power supply connector. You can print out a simple label and attach it to the top face of the housing between the positive and negative terminals. I have an undergraduate degree in Engineering that is 50 Mechanical Engineering and 50 Electrical Engineering. I have worked in a variety of industries from hydraulic aerial lifts to aircraft tooling. I currently spend most of my time chasing around my new baby.I admit I don’t know much about these “banana jacks” but I was just wondering how you would connect something like an arduino or anything else to this? Thanks. These wires could connect to an ardunio and many other things. I did have one question. Rather than using the 10W Resistor to Meet the Minimum Load Requirement, wouldn’t it also work and make more sense to put in a light bulb or LED to indicate the power is on. I mean, you get the resistance needed, and you get a visual indicator that the power is on, which might be good to know. They have different wattages. You’ll have to look at the nameplate for the specs. That’s the only thing I see missing from this guide. I guess try using multiple rails if you can. Sad I just wasted a good psu:( Solder all the 12v wires together and call it good. It’s been working reliably for me It may not have saved your psu in this case since you pushed a single channel past its breaking point, unfortunately. The psu may have been weak in this case. Is best not to load any single channel that past 50 of its rated currant to stay on the safe side. Also, per the ATX spec due to the gauge of the wire and the properties of the connector in the plug you are limited to about 8amps per wire.http://prodesign31.ru/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/162735bcb10008---brighthouse-remote-ur5u-8780l-bht-manual.pdfAlso make sure you you have as many black wires connected to your load as you have for a common rail, so that the return current for the ground observes the same current limit per wire as the on the supply side. They are different for various power supplies and sometimes on the same power supply. Did you just put a panel-mount pot in series with the connectors. Did you put a meter on it? Thx. I used a toolbox to put the psu in, and bored holes in the removable tool tray to hold the binding posts. Works ok so far. Only mistake I made was putting the posts too close to each other. Other than that, works great. Nice project that becomes a useful too. A little more work up front, but well worth it in the long run as it is super easy to swap supplies if one fails. Also can serve as a quick tester for all those old supplies I have taking up space.They require a lot of heat and I almost always melt the plastic before the solder:( I for one, would prefer to buy it. Can I have more the one 12 volt outlet? Maybe a pilot light might make a good load resistor. And look retro-cool.:) A diode (an LED is a type of diode), doesn’t limit current. It will actually keep drawing current and dissipating it as head, or fail. Your best bet is a simple resistor, an incandesent bulb’s resistance changes with heat and voltage, so its not ideal. See the current rating for that particular LED and voltage.In looking at the wires etc I would make a plug board or other such apparatus so you could easily connect and disconnect different voltages. At first glance and because I do not have the components on hand to make it proper I thought a simple board with finishing nails through it on the one side only sticking out enough to solder the wire to the end of the nail and on the other side enough to connect an alligator clip jumper wire too.FOLLOWING colors of wires are Red, orange, black, purple, white, brown, gray nd sky blue. I want to make 12v charger The pre ATX supplies didn’t have this feature.www.corwell.co.uk/userfiles/files/capitalization-chicago-manual-of-style.pdf It has a ground terminal for a wrist strap that ties to chassis, three voltage taps, and a switch to connect a DC barrel jack to one of three voltages. We have had tons and tons of old computers donated most of which we just strip for parts. So we had a massive stack of ATX supplies looking for a purpose. US FIRST Robotics also standardizes on the 45A Anderson Power Poles. Same connector arrangement as the ham radio standard. Our makerspace happened to have a west mountain radio battery analyzer we were able to use with our US FIRST team’s battery packs without modification. Like the iPhoney. When I turn on the power supply and connect it to the stereo, the power supply shuts off. The 12-volt pin produces good voltage and it will run a 12-volt PC fan, no problem. There does not appear to be a short in the stereo unit—it shows several thousand ohms between the power wire and ground, which is roughly the same resistance as the fan. Do you know why the power supply is shutting off. By the way, the same thing happened when I tried to connect a 12-volt, 1 amp wall adapter to the stereo. The adapter will no longer produce sufficient voltage. If you are drawing too many amps then it could shut the supply off. Ex. If I have a 100 watt stereo then I need a supply that can handle 100 watts (keep in mind that 100 watts is not 100 amps) It is a factory unit, so I have been unable to find any specs. I even tried to Google the number printed on the amplifier IC inside the stereo, but came up empty-handed on info. Since it’s a 1997 factory stereo, I doubt the power is much higher than 20W per channel. But assuming the total power draw is 80W, this should be well within the power supply’s capacity. It’s rated to produce 21A at 12V, which should yield 252W. Besides, the stereo should only be drawing its maximum power at its highest volume setting during the loudest portion of music.http://lalitas-thaimassage-spa.de/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/162735bdd57be6---brightsign-hd-2000-manual.pdf I didn’t even have any speakers connected to the stereo when I connected the power supply to it, yet the power supply shut off immediately. One question I have is why use JB Weld. Is that what you had on hand or is it because its stronger than a regular 2-part epoxy? I would now like to use it to power a couple of RGB LED strip controllers and their attached strips. Here is my power supply: If you have a 450W power supply, and you’re trying to draw half of that through only one of those little wires you’ll surely let the smoke out. (The positive could be going through one or more wires in your build for different voltage loads, but it’s got only one ground to get back to the PSU.) That is why there are so many black, several yellow, several red going into the mainboard connector. And it’s why drive connectors have two ground wires. And it’s why the 4-pin ATX connector (black and yellow) is not a 2-pin connector. Repeat for yellow, black, (orange if you want 3.3v) and try to avoid a fire.:o) I did have one question. Rather than using the 10W Resistor to Meet the Minimum Load Requirement, couldn’t you put in a light bulb or LED to indicate the power is on. I mean, you get the resistance needed, and you get a visual indicator that the power is on, which might be good to know. My cb raido has a 12 volt 600 watt kicker hooked to it. It pulls a lot of power. If I hold a four foot florescent light out pointing it at the antenna and key the mike it will light up the bulb. Is there a way to take a few of these power supplies and hook them together to run the amp. It will also open security gates, garage doors and make gas pumps go crazy along with some neighbors. Only series connections with some minor modification but that is no help to your situation. You need to check the current it uses at 12 volts. The output is a much lower voltage, and 600 watts is an instantaneous current for certain sounds, very low notes drew the most current and voltage.http://eduomania.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/162735beca0923---brighton-manual-therapy.pdf There is a chance that it would give you enough current if it is a powerful enough psu. I can’t find any information on which pins specifically need to be loaded on newer supplies. I am trying to get 24V out of 2 of my 12V pins and limiting them to 8A. I saw the part about the 5V being loaded and sometimes the 3.3V and 12V needing loads. First, they are the same 12 volt supply, so they are not independent. Second, even if your supply had two separate circuits to supply the 12 volt pins, they would share the same ground, so if you “stacked” them, you would be shorting out one supply. Sorry if this is a silly idea. Many old PC power supplies have a significantly smaller current capacity on the -12 V output. You can check this by checking for continuity between the black wires and the metal case of the power supply, only do this when the supply isn’t plugged in. I have switch mode power supplies for non-computer applications that can be stacked this way. But I believe that most computer power supplies are grounded and should not be run in series this way. Be sure to read the comments at the bottom of the article. Most PSUs work by regulating one of the outputs and keeping the other outputs as a proportion of that rail. Nowadays the 5V rail is less important since most parts of a PC use either 3.3V, or 12V for heavier power requirements.The power is not steady though, it cycles between high and low. I see the fan on the PSU rocks back and forth at the same rate as the power cycle. Any thoughts on what might cause this.Better power supplies will shut down as described when the minimum load isn’t set, but cheaper ones will simply drift all over the place, which is dangerous. Applying a minimum load to the primary supply should sort it out. That will give you a pre-fabricated cable with crimped terminals for less than 2 USD. Just cut off the other end. I tend to have other, more exciting things to do.copenhagenpools.com/contents//files/capitalization-after-colon-chicago-manual-of-style.pdf BTW You’d be surprised to see where else the ATX cables (or their Molex connecors) are used. I used one to bypass the car allarm box in my Maserati. The previous owner had that solved with som flunky wires. But the plug was a standard ATX, so I bought an ATX extension cable instead! Molex has a Wire-to-Wire series of parts, and a Wire-to-board series of parts. The Wire-to-board series is used for the plugs mounted to motherboards. The wire-to-wire is better for what we are doing with this example. An example part number for this wire to wire plug is 39-01-3203. This is in the 5558 series of connectors from Molex. This series of Molex parts range from 2-24 conductors and is called “Mini Fit Jr”. I believe the terminals inside the connectors are separate items. The female ones on the power supply side are in the 5556 series, the male wire to wire terminals are in the 5558 series. Since these are more ment to be used by industrial users (OEM’s), they are hard to come by. Also you need to crimp all contacts to the cable.Mine, however, cuts out whenever I try to draw more than a small amount of the power. If I wait for a bit, it powers up again. Seems like theres cutout switch somewhere that is tripped, then resets itself. What’s happening here? These should be tied to orange (brown) and red (pink). They sense the voltage on those rails to allow the psu to function properly, but not all psu’s have them. If not what do you do with them? Thanks Simply a case of matching up each colour inside the box. You don’t need them unless you need a longer cable. Just cut them off and tape them in like color groups separately, but try not to short them each together. They claim they need 1.65 amps at 3 volts. I’ve landed the green power wire on the chassis ground, but when I send the 3.3 volts to the stepper motor, the power supply instantly “trips”. I have to shut off power to the power supply and wait about 3 minutes for the green LED on the back to finally die. When I power the power supply back up, I have 3.3 volts again. Why cant I use this power supply to power these little stepper motors? They are not dc PM motors. A beefy power supply with all the standard output voltages, which is what the PC power supply is, is an excellent bench supply for hobbyists and budding engineers. Some have multiple “rails”. So you have to tie the outputs together.I permanently soldered the green wires.It would be best if you used a resistor instead of a paper clip like most tutorials online say to do. If you wanted a way to do it without plugging wires in and out all the time you could use a switch in line with a resistor. I’m told it needs to attain a minimum of 13.4v to charge effectively. How do I increase the voltage using the vairious voltages that this unit produces. Can I use a yellow and a red wire on the positive terminal, or that’d be too much? It doesn’t work that way and will blow your psu. It may be beyond the limit for that channel(s). If it’s momentary then how do you turn the supply off? In the video it looks like the power button stays in when pushed. That worked for me, and the PSU turned off when the button was released What resistor i should use to connect green wire with black wire ? Would you please explain why is it there and how can it be used. Is not GND as the -12V. Thank you! Data sheet mentioned minimum loads for all the voltage rails except this one. Not sure what the minimum load on this line is, but 10Ohm worked, as well as using my raspberry pi. But when I was trying to qualify the PSU, I could not get it to turn on, no matter what loads I attached the the 12V, 5V, 3.3V rails. OCZ 600W PSU. Hope this helps someone else. I’ve been having trouble too! I’ve modified a couple of these supplies to increase their 12V output, and change the output voltage to 13.8 for powering old mobile radios. So the other outputs are “close” to -12V and -5V, but not regulated at those voltages. Each supply is different, but many of them use the same TL494 PWM regulator chip and the same basic schematic, which you can find by Googling. Tracing out the circuit will be educational as well as helpful. Just ask your local computer recycler. Many thanks Mike The problem is that it works just in case I push the power supply switch and the power button on the case together almost at the same time. I am sure that my power supply has a problem. Would you mind telling me what part of this power supply needs exchanging? The positive pin I am assuming is the center. The switching pin I am assuming is the pin that does not have continuity when I test between it and the jack when inserted? So as always, check the required polarity of any devices you want to power before plugging them in. I have a question for you if your up for it? I appreciate any help you can offer!!! U would think they want me to get my hair standing up when I get shocked lol Do you think it will work? Sorry guys Just add a resistor to provide the minimum required load and add your choice of terminals. You can opt out by clicking the configure button below. You can find more information in our privacy policy.Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. Please try again. The PSU needs a connection to the motherboard to be told to turn on. When you press the power button on your case, it jumps the green wire to a ground, telling the PSU to turn on. When this “jump” is broken, the PSU shuts off. Please keep in mind, that capacitors inside your PSU store enough current to kill (or at least make you feel uncomfortable). While we will not be working inside your PSU, keep safety in mind. Half an inch should be more than ample. The PSU can now be turned on or off using the power switch on the back of the PSU. While a paper clip will work, I highly discourage doing that. Please keep in mind, that capacitors inside your PSU store enough current to kill (or at least make you feel uncomfortable). While we will not be working inside your PSU, keep safety in mind. Depending on how you will be situating this PSU and switch, your wire may only be a few inches or a few feet long. - For this project, I've actually used two different colored pieces of wire. Again, about half an inch should be enough. Needle nose pliers can be used to make a nice, tight loop around the terminals. Make sure you are using a non-lead based solder to avoid lead poisoning.;) Simply plug one wire from the switch into the PSU's green connector and the other wire into any of the black connectors. It doesn't matter which one of the black connectors you use, and it doesn't matter which end of switch is connected to which wire. All that matters is that one wire is connected to green, and one is connected to black. Being able to do this has been extremely helpful to me as a reviewer, however it also comes in handy if you run a high power Thermoelectric Cooler (aka TEC or pelt) that requires the use of a 2nd PSU. Here's a few ideas. A faulty PC power supply belies many intermittent computer problems. This is why experienced PC technicians often look first at the PSU when diagnosing PC hardware issues. Usually this means you’re left only with the mouse, keyboard and monitor connected. Check that it has not been accidentally been switched off. Plug the PSU power cable into a wall socket or surge protector, and turn on the computer. Most power supply models have a light on back of the unit that glows when it’s powered on. If it doesn’t light, try a different power cable and a different socket to eliminate those items as the source of the problem. You should hear these devices spinning. Usually flashing lights on a motherboard indicate a faulty or misconnected power supply. Lights and BIOS beep codes vary by manufacturer. Check your motherboard product manual for that information. This test will identify some common issues: If you can hear the fan, this should verify the power supply is turned on. It will not tell you much else. If your power supply passes the paper clip test, you still may need to identify related issues: A multimeter is an instrument that measures electrical current, principally voltage (volts), current (amps), and resistance (ohms). If you’re an electronics technician, you probably have one already, and are definitely familiar with this tool. The cost of a new PSU is relatively low, and does not justify extensive personnel hours dedicated to a complex diagnosis. It is common practice for departments that manage multiple PCs is to keep spare power supply or two on hand for “swap” testing to identify when a PSU is the root cause of recurring computer problems. If you’re buying your business computers as finished systems, it’s a better use of company resources for the manufacturer to troubleshoot faulty computer power supplies and other components, while your team gets to work on a freshly replaced PC. More Posts - Website - Twitter - LinkedIn - Google Plus. Her expertise includes social media, web development, and graphic design. There is the chance that your PC isn't receiving power because of a serious issue, but it's unlikely.A loose or unplugged power cable is one of the top reasons why a computer won't turn on.If you regularly keep your computer plugged in, but it has wiggled loose and now the battery is empty, your computer may not be getting power for this reason. In other words, remove any power strips, battery backups, or other power distribution devices between your PC and the wall outlet.Even if nothing improves, continue troubleshooting with the computer plugged into the wall to keep things simple.Sometimes a tripped breaker can leak just enough power to show proper voltage on the meter, leaving you with the assumption that your power is working.If the input voltage for the power supply unit (PSU) does not match the correct setting for your country, your computer may not power on at all.Yes, it's perfectly fine to run your portable computer without the battery installed.Until you get it replaced, feel free to use your computer, so long as you're close to a power outlet!Be sure to remove the laptop's internal battery to avoid the risk of shock if you work on this yourself. On a desktop, this is the power cable that runs between the computer case and the power source. The AC adapter for a tablet or laptop is the cable that you plug into the wall to charge your battery (it usually has a tiny light on it).Even if you don't regularly use the power cable, if it has failed, it means that it hasn't been charging your battery.You can use the one that's powering your monitor (as long as it seems to be getting power), one from another computer, or a new one. Believe it or not, a bad CMOS battery is a relatively common cause of a computer that looks like it's not receiving power.This is not a very common point of failure, but your PC might not be turning on because the power button isn't properly connected to the motherboard.If these wires aren't securely connected or aren't connected at all, this is probably the cause of your computer not turning on.