fox 5.0 dhx air manual
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fox 5.0 dhx air manualDo not use a high pressure washer on your shock. If loose, adjust it accordingly Do not over-tighten. Refer to the Air A rule of thumb is that ProPedal damping affects the ProPedal damping affects the initial part of the Do not use any other tool to turn the There are three (3) rotations of Lightly grease, then re-install the knob. The Boost Valve also decouples Instead, its behavior and Doing so can damage your shock and require repairs that are NOT covered Repeat to achieve. Downhill bicycles and their components Hence, the 40 and DHX 5.0., Generally, the bikes and components required If loose, adjust according Do not over-tighten. Refer to the Air A rule of thumb is that Do not use any other tool to turn the There are three (3) rotations of Lightly grease then re-install the knob. The Boost Valve also decouples Instead, its behavior and Doing so can damage your shock and Repeat to achieve. Copy and paste the HTML code below: Video Cut by Spoiled Goods Is this the right procedure. Or should I unscrew all the way then pressurize and then ride around and screw in to my liking. Please help. Meaning that if you have the bottom out control fully out (counter clockwise) the air volume of the boost valve is at its maximum. When you dial in the bottom out control (clockwise) you are decreasing the physical air volume inside the boost valve (therefore giving the shock a higher or quicker rate of ramp up or non-linear quality). The proper way to adjust this control is to adjust the bottom out control to your desired setting, then adjust the air to the boost valve chamber. Reason being, if you fill your boost valve chamber with 150 psi and then adjust the bottom out control clockwise, you will actually increase the pressure inside the boost valve because the air volume is decreased from this adjustment. So if you know how much bottom out control you like with your shock, dial that in BEFORE adjusting pressure inside the boost valve.http://eminenceinc.com/userfiles/fox-float-rlc-130mm-manual.xml
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If you are curiuous about this, adjust your bottom out control fully clockwise, connect your shock pump to the boost valve and inflate to 150psi. With the shock pump still installed, fully unscrew the bottom out control fully counter clockwise. You will see that the pump will drop in pressure. Hope this helps. Now I can't get it to play at all. Anybody have a saved version or link to another site? Thanks Shock works much better now. No more bottoming out with my 220lbs. MIMS I'm pretty sure. As for the video, thanks. I'm interested in getting a DHX5.0 air, this helps. Helped a lot, thx. Follow Santa Cruz's baseline settings, and tweak from there Looks like you are a little low on main chamber, and high on boost.Ils sont livres sans ressort et offrent ce qu'il se fait de mieux en amortisseur arriere. Ils sont livres sans ressort et offrent ce qu'il se fait de mieux en amortisseur arriere.Some people say air isn't reliable enough to use as a spring, and others say Fox DHX 5.0 Air shock review There's been a lot of controversy surrounding the use of air shocks for downhill riding. Some people say air isn't reliable enough to use as a spring, and others say DESCRIPTION Air shocks aren't just for weight weenies anymore. The DHX Air 5.0 is designed specifically for the rigors of big-hit, big-terrain riding. Warning: Use of the shock with improper air pressure can cause loss of dampening and malfunction of the shock.Use Peatix for any event and ticketing needs! Co-organizers can edit group and event pages, access sales and attendee information, manage ticket sales and more. I have had 0 problems with this shock. I just recently had it serviced and it runs great. Not that it feels bad. I just always think I can somehow find the magic setting. It rails plain and simple. Sometimes it bottoms only when I do something out of the ordinary though. I like the mid stroke. Kind of reminds me of my PUSHed Float. Doesn't bob, just hangs out.http://ghespanail.com/fckeditor_userfiles/fox-float-rp-24-manual.xml What's not so good: 1) The mid range compression (the smaller air chamber) is a bit of a nuisance to fine tune, especially if you don't have a high zoot air pump. It's not impossible, it just takes practice. The problem is that not enough pressure will result in the shock easily bottoming out. Note that there is a minimum pressure that must be used when the bottom out resistance is set at maximum. 2) The bloody thing keeps leaking oil out of a small port at the top of the shock, close to the Propedal knob. My shock is now on it's THIRD trip in for warranty repairs in THREE months or so, for the same problem. I am hoping that this will fix it, because it is getting real old, real fast. I haven't done anything horrendous to it, either. Some typical XC riding, along with some light urban freeride. The shock has been set up within guidelnes. The most bizarre part is that it seems to handle the freeride without any problems, but an hour or two of XC sends it into spasms. My conclusion about this product: The concept is good. The adjustablity is great. The ride is excellent. The price is pretty reasonable. The durability, on the other hand, is another issue. Maybe this is a just a fluke. If this third repair does the trick, fine. If it doesn't, I will raise a ruckus and bother Fox until they refund my money, or replace my shock. My rating for the shock right now. Value: 2 flaming whatevers. No matter how inexpensive something is, if it keeps breaking, it has little value Overall rating: Again, 2 flaming whatevers. If I have to keep shipping the shock back for warranty, then it doesn't matter how well it rides when it functions properly - it still isn't all that great. I've had a few more months of riding on the shock now including 4 days of DH runs at Sunrise Resort. It's been through high heat, cold, mud, sand and rain. So far it's working great, no problems at all. I talked to a few other guys I ride with and they've all had similar stuck shock issues over the years.https://www.ziveknihy.sk/audiokniha/ei30mh55gsb-manual The problem seems to be temperature related (going from warm to cold) but we're not sure. Since coming back from Fox mine is working better than it did before so maybe there is an internal problem. I do have to give credit to Fox for getting the shock back very fast (less than a week!)and no hassles. I'm bumping my rating way up but not quite a 5 since there's always that little bit of worry that it's going to leave me stranded again. Handles both big and small bumps well. I was told that maybe it just needed to break in. But after riding with it for 3 months, then having to pump up the shock on the trail just to support my weight (good thing I had a shock pump), I finally gave up and sent it back to Fox for a rebuild. What the heck does that mean. I'm really disappointed in Fox for shipping something out in this condition. Hopefully I won't have to send it back again. My first 5 rides or so were a little frustrating as I just could not get this thing to work like I wanted. Since then, it's broken in nicely. BTW, I'm 205 lbs - I run about 225 psi with bottom out adjust set 2 clicks to minus from center and rebound adjust set 1 click positive (more damping) from center. I was destroying bearings on my Vp on tracks with lots of square edge hits, once tuned there has been no bearing replacements yet. Owened 3 on 3 different bikes (RM Switch, SC Nomad, SC VP), and I ride hard. I have never had one get stuck down, must be lucky so far. Elden in Flagstaff. What you may not realize is that when the shock is stuck down the rear tire may actually hit the seat tube which prevents you from even riding slowly. There was no warning of an impending problem either. I know there is a review from '06 on here that says this problem was caused by bad seals and had been corrected but that is obviously not the case. I wouldn't feel so bad getting shafted by a crappy product if I hadn't spent a lot of cash on it.I'm giving a 1 chili rating mainly due to the fact that this problem has been going on for over a year and nothing has changed. I am 195 without gear and ride hard 'all mountain' - downhill courses, drops to 6', and steep climbs. The shock has performed flawlessly. It feels as good or better than most coil overs I have tried, even those with 6-way adjustent. You need to have an appreciation for the order of setting up the shock to first dial in spring rate and sag, followed by compression damping and bottom out. Have heard of some complain about 'midshock sag' or 'mushiness'. Couldn't be more wrong. This shock is nice and supple, while maintaining an awesome degree of progressiveness. Coil overs are easier to set up correctly and are more forgiving if poorly tuned. For those of you who know spring rate from compression damping from sag, this is one heck of a shock. Before I boosted it, the shock had about 110 PSI, so that means I doubled the pressure. At 110 PSI, the shock was plush and I always used full travel, judging by the O-ring. I bottomed it for the first time at the end of a long, fast decline that suddenly flattens out. At 110 PSI, the back end would kick out sometimes, startling me. (I have Kenda Nevegals on it.) And the rebound felt too slow. So, whadday think? Have you got suggestions for setting the Rebound adjust. Have you got suggestions for setting air pressure in the small Reservoir. Have you got suggestions for setting the Bottom Out adjust. I like the ProPedal adjustment as it is for now. I experience absolutely no pedal-induced bob, ever (full disclosure: I never stand up to pull a hill). Thanks for your time, DanI just purchased this new bike and am wanting to set up the PSI for my 190lbs of body mass and fairly aggressive riding with moderate drops included. What do you recommend?I did have an interesting conversation with a mechanic recently. First, he said to begin with your body weight in PSI in the Main Air chamber. For example, I weigh 240 lbs, so he recommends 240 PSI. The book says the Main Air chamber can accept up to 300 PSI. Ultimately, I put 220 PSI to get the correct sag.The mechanic was saying, though, that if the ProPedal setting is too high, it presents a delay in the compression until it pops on a hit. Still no bob, but it felt squishy, ill defined. I had also pumped the Reservior up to 100 PSI, an arbitrary number, just a guess, because the pressure was below the minimum specs. This discussion is specific to the Turner Five Spot, of course.I see that one can dial it up and down.. I guess down means softer and squishier and up means stiffer for the climb. I will play with it for a while and see. What is the max air pressure for the shock. And do you know where I can get a manual on line. Where are you based out of. I am in Puyallup, WA. Rock on MarcusI did have an interesting conversation with a mechanic recently. This discussion is specific to the Turner Five Spot, of course. I run anywhere between 150-175 psi in the boost chamber. I prefer the coil for me. The air seems to blow right through the middle of the travel. The initial inch-ish is cool, the last inch is fine, but that middle part of the stroke just doesn't exist; meaning: the shock just blows right through that part of the travel in my opinion. It's something I've heard pretty consistently from lots of clydes. Brock.ConsumerREVIEW.com, a business unit of Invenda. On top of that I had to run the PSI almost to the max in order to make it rideable. One positive I did find was how soft the shock was despite how much air pressure I ran it at. The shock is certainly plush. I recommend trying a different air shock (i.e. Double Barrel Air, XFusion Vector Air, or Rock Shox Monarch or Vivid) or to purchase a coil instead of the DHX 5.0 Air. If you are over 200lbs this is the shock you want. Takes everything and if you want that hardtail experience switch the lever. Great Shock. This shock will stand the test of time and any course thrown at it. The DHX Air 5.0 Rear Shock from Fox Suspension is silky smooth and provides seriously impressive big hit performance. Simply put, Boost Valve provides a feeling of endless travel and plushness like that of a downhill rig, but with XC pedalling efficiency. So tunable that it’s easy for normal people to screw up. In addition to standard preload and rebound adjustments, that shock has adjustments for Boost Valve pressure, Bottom Out and ProPedal. And guess what? Those adjustments are related: And you should probably re-check the ProPedal too. This adjustability can be tricky for a normal person to deal with. Like I said, it’s easy for normal people to make this awesome shock ride poorly. You say that’s done. Write down the number. Make sure it’s within the range printed on the shock. It has three full turns of adjustment. Count how many turns it is in (clockwise) from all the way out (counterclockwise). Let’s say it’s one turn in. In this case, that would be two turns in. Check and adjust the Boost Valve pressure. Remember to check your Boost Valve and ProPedal whenever you change your Bottom Out. It would not hurt to double-check your rebound too. It’s like getting an eye exam. Start at the extremes and work your way systematically to your ideal setting. That will also affect the progressiveness of your shock. To keep it easy: Leave it where you have it, or put it in the middle of the range printed on the shock. The fork got worse and worse, and I got increasingly lost and frustrated. I finally called my buddy Jim at Fox, and he told me the stock settings. They work great! I?ll try that bracketing technique, seems very useful? Because of the leverage rate I would recommend running fully closed bottom out with 150psi in the boost valve as good starting point. When I rode the bike I was 160lbs and ran a 300 lb spring with 1 inch sag measured from the rear shock’s eye-to-eye. Now I would go with a 350 to 400 lb spring because I have a much more aggressive riding style and weigh 170lbs. Propedal valve is replaced with a custom valved high speed SSD valve in the This conversion complements the revalved main piston to completely convert Also the longer the run the hotter the shock gets, and with small reservoir Most frames will need more nitrogen volume High rising rate frames and aggressive extended downhill runs on linear and Rider weight is without gear, we We need this number to help set-up your shock rebound damping correctly. Service should be performed every 100 hrs, same as Fox recommends. It is also This does not include damaged or dented air cans or air piston shafts. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Anyway you need to set the sag first with the main chamber, I'm about 83kg with my DH gear on and I run 190psi which gives me spot on 35 sag. Its easy to do because there is an o-ring on the shaft of the shock. I found it bottoms out easy so I run full bottom out full clockwise. Then set the boost valve, keep adding air here to stop bottoming out, soft bottom out is ok but no harsh ones.Cheers jda, I did a search and didn't find the answers, set the sag to 30 ish and put 140 psi in the boost valve will give this a go. Cheers mate How does the boost valve (propedal) affect the main chamber when in the min or max settings??? I'll admit I've been a little nervous with the Air.By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. DHX Air Rebuild Note: The DHX OEM version does not have a Schrader Valve on the reservoir. Find great deals on eBay for Fox Rebuild Kit in Rear Shocks. Shop with confidence. Skip to main content. I've put three rides on the Inline and tried to follow the guide in the.Lay out a clean shop towel on which you can store and organize the shock parts. Put on your safety glasses and use rubber gloves if desired. Remove the mounting hardware before disassembly. Record the shock's eye-to-eye length and total travel. This information will assist you in determining the IFP setting, and for ordering replacement parts. Unthread the air sleeve air cap and release the air from the air sleeve. Remove the travel indicator o-ring. Remove the air sleeve from the damper by turning the air sleeve counterclockwise. FOX air shocks contain high air pressures. Before continuing service, ensure that the shock is not stuck-down. Always wear eye protection when servicing any FOX product. Clean the inside area of the damper and air sleeve. Clean and inspect the bottom-out o-ring on damper shaft. Remove the bearing housing seal with a plastic o-ring pick and remove the white bearings. Be careful not to scratch the seal gland. Remove air valve cap. Release the air from the Schrader valve using a 2mm hex key wrench or another tool. Before servicing a FOX air shock, certain precautions and countermeasures need to be taken. Remove the bearing housing and damper shaft with a 22mm open-end wrench (counterclockwise). Note the serial numbers on the bearing housing. Remove the bearing housing from the damper and drain over an oil pan. Clean the body and air sleeve, then set them aside. Unthread the bottom-out knob set screws with a 2mm hex key. The set screws do not need to be removed. Remove the bottom-out knob. With the reservoir eyelet secured in a soft-jaw vise, remove the reservoir end cap with a 24mm socket wrench. If the reservoir body starts to unthread from the reservoir eyelet, secure the reservoir body with shaft clamps. Remove the position-sensitive volume adjuster. Remove the IFP by gripping the flats with needlenose pliers. Remove the IFP bleed screw with a 2mm hex key. Hold onto the wrench flat with a 9mm open-end wrench. Clean the IFP. Replace the IFP o-ring, if necessary. Pour remaining oil from inside the reservoir body into a drain pan. Remove the screw from the ProPedal adjuster knob using a 2mm hex key. Remove the ProPedal knob. Be careful not to lose the two steel detent balls and springs inside the detent holes under the knob. Remove the balls and springs, clean, and set aside. Remove the bleed screw with a 2mm hex key. Keep the piston assembly organized by laying it out in order on a clean shop towel. This is also a good time to inspect, clean and, if necessary, replace these parts. Remove the bearing housing by sliding it off the damper shaft. Clean, inspect, and replace, if necessary, the bearing housing seals. Remove the bottom-out o-ring and washer. Clean, inspect, and replace, if necessary. Thread the reservoir end cap into the reservoir body. Attempt to remove the reservoir from the reservoir eyelet without removing the decal. However, the decal will most likely be damaged. In order to remove the decal, warm it up slightly to soften the adhesive; warm to the touch works best. Peel the decal away from the reservoir and clean off any leftover glue with cleaner (e.g., Simple Green, isopropyl alcohol, parts washer solvent). Place the reservoir body into shaft clamps. Clamp the assembly into a soft-jaw vise. Tech Tip: Clean the shaft clamps with isopropyl alcohol and leave them wet. This will help the shaft clamps grip the reservoir body. (Quick primer on ) 32. Heat up the reservoir at the bottom where the reservoir threads into the eyelet. The heat will soften the factory-installed Loctite on the threads. Heat the reservoir until it is just hot to the touch. Use ?-inch bar stock and insert it into the DU bushing bore. Turn the eyelet counterclockwise to unthread the reservoir body from the eyelet. Clean the Loctite from the shaft and eyelet threads. Remove the large rebound check valve spring. Remove the smaller ProPedal spring. Remove the ProPedal adjuster spring preload assembly and hex shaft. ProPedal adjuster parts: 39. Remove the o-rings (two) from the reservoir eyelet assembly and ProPedal adjuster bore, and clean or replace these as necessary. Retrieve the reservoir body and remove the rebound check valve. Remove the bottom-out Boost Valve o-ring, and clean or replace as necessary. Here is a view of the top of the bottom-out Boost Valve with retaining ring. Disassembly and service of the Boost Valve is rare. With a 2mm hex key, remove the rebound detent set screw, spring, and ball. Clean the damper shaft with isopropyl alcohol. Clean the shaft clamps as well and leave them wet. Using the shaft clamps, clamp the damper shaft into a soft-jaw vise. Note: Do not overtighten the vise when securing the damper shaft or damage may result. Heat up the top of the damper shaft to soften the red Loctite; warm to the touch works best. Do not overheat. Unthread the eyelet from the damper shaft. Do not allow the damper shaft to spin in the shaft clamps, or damage to the shaft finish may result. Clean Loctite from the threads on the shaft, eyelet threads, and eyelet shaft threads. Slide the rebound adjuster knob out from the eyelet. Remove the rebound adjuster rod while holding onto the rebound knob (the knob may fall out as you slide out the rod). Inspect the rebound adjuster rod o-ring, and clean or replace as necessary. Remove the rebound knob. Take note of the knob's orientation; the slots on the knob will point to the DU bushing. Remove and inspect the o-ring located inside the threaded bore of the eyelet. Replace as necessary. Set assembly aside for now. All major components have been disassembled. Clean and inspect all the parts that are neatly laid out in assembly sequence on your shop towel. Place the rebound check valve back into the bottom of the reservoir body. Replace the bottom-out Boost Valve o-ring. Lubricate the o-ring and set the assembly aside. Place a small amount of grease on the ProPedal adjuster parts. Insert the spring adjust rod into the set screw. Tech Tip: The threads on these parts are reverse (i.e., left-handed). Using the DHX Hex Socket Wrench, thread the ProPedal adjuster back into the reservoir eyelet by hand. Test the ProPedal adjuster by using the ProPedal knob. You should be able to turn the adjuster knob approximately 3.5 full turns. Set the ProPedal knob aside for now. Using the DHX Hex Socket Wrench, torque the ProPedal housing to 110 in-lbs. Set the assembly aside. Insert the rod adjuster into the damper shaft. Ensure that the o-ring end of the rod adjuster is at the end with the threads on the outside diameter of the damper shaft. Turn the rod adjuster so that the set screw is above the rebound port drilled into the side of the shaft. Before threading the damper shaft back into the eyelet, ensure that the o-ring at the bottom is properly installed. Slide the rebound knob into the eyelet assembly (like a coin into a slot machine). Take note of the knob's orientation; point the slots on the knob towards the DU bushing. Thread the shaft into the eyelet. Ensure that the top of the rod adjuster is correctly inserted into the hex feature in the center of the rebound knob. Tech Tip: Turn the knob and view through the rebound port on the side of the shaft. You should see the set screw move up and down. Using the shaft clamps, clamp the damper shaft in a soft-jaw vise. Place the bottom-out washer and bottom out o-ring onto the shaft and slide up to the eyelet. Double-check the bearing housing and replace seals as necessary. Lube the seal and DU bushing in the bearing housing with grease. Gently slide the bearing housing onto the shaft all the way up to the bottom-out o-ring. Place the damper piston with piston bolt onto the shaft. Thread it in all the way with gentle force. Tech Tip: Ensure the rebound adjuster knob moves freely without bind. Working on the reservoir endcap assembly, install the ProPedal adjuster spring (small) and rebound check Spring (large). Before threading the reservoir body back into the eyelet, ensure that the rebound check valve is in place and that the o-ring is on the end of the bottom-out Booster Valve. Apply the Loctite to the middle three threads only, keeping it off the o-ring gland. Thread the reservoir body onto the eyelet. Make sure the rebound check spring, ProPedal spring and rebound check valve are staying in place as you thread to final position (hand tight is good for now). Place the two small springs and small steel balls back into the ProPedal detent holes on the eyelet. Place a dab of grease on the underside of the ProPedal knob. Put on the ProPedal knob (line up slot in knob to adjuster rod). Align the oval features on the shaft end and ProPedal knob. Using a 2mm hex key and torque wrench, torque to 4 in-lbs. Grease, then drop the steel ball into the rebound adjuster detent hole. Place the spring on top of the ball. Add one drop of blue Loctite onto the set screw. Screw the set screw into the thread until it is flush with the bottom of the countersink. Test the rebound knob for detent function. The detent should be firm, but not hard to turn. Adjust the set screw to adjust the preferred rebound knob feel. Thread in the bleed port screw using a 2mm hex key. Inspect the o-ring and replace as necessary. Place the reservoir eyelet into a soft-jaw vise and fill the reservoir with 10 wt. FOX Suspension Fluid. Fill the reservoir to the bottom of the threads on the inside diameter of the reservoir body. Using a 2mm hex key, thread the IFP bleed screw into the IFP a couple of turns only—the bleed screw will be removed again shortly. Inspect the IFP o-ring and replace if necessary. Slowly push the IFP into the reservoir. Push down until you see the last thread on the inside diameter of the reservoir body. Oil and air will emerge from the piston bolt hole. This is normal. Unthread the IFP bleed screw and set aside. Very slowly push the IFP further into the reservoir until you see a small amount of oil flow out of the bleed port. Stop pushing as soon as the oil starts flowing out. This step purges the air trapped under the IFP. Tech Tip: Unless you want suspension fluid squirted in your face, it is imperative that you push the IFP down SLOWLY. Thread the IFP bleed screw back into the bleed port. There will be a small amount of oil on top of the bleed port. This is normal and ensures that air does not enter the IFP chamber as you screw the bleed screw back in. A 9mm open-end wrench can be used to hold the IFP steady as you torque the IFP bleed screw to 7 in-lbs. (0.79 N-m) using a 2mm hex key. Wipe off any excess oil within the reservoir body and on top of the IFP. Leave the eyelet clamped into the soft-jaw vise for now. Holding the damper body still, pour 10 wt. FOX Suspension Fluid all the way up to the top of the body. Tech Tip: Keep the damper body upright by securing it to the graduated cylinder with a travel o-ring. Let stand a few minutes to allow air bubbles to escape from the oil. Pour FLOAT Fluid (NOT suspension fluid) into the middle of the piston bolt and make sure the piston and the bearing house are topped off with oil. The important point here is that you want all cavities full of oil, not air.Please contact us for international. more rates. All items are guaranteed to be in proper working order upon arrival. Unless specified otherwise in the description. We have been in the Industrial and manufacturing supply field for over 7 years and take pride in providing our customers with THE BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE. We do our best to describe everything. If you have questions. Please feel free to email us. We strive hard to make sure our customers are happy. We use the appropriate packaging materials that are necessary when packaging your items. We hope that you will find your purchase satisfying. If by chance there is an issue with your item, please let us know right away. We are always ready to address any concern. Powered by Comes with brand new battery and the case.