flexaret repair manual
LINK 1 ENTER SITE >>> Download PDF
LINK 2 ENTER SITE >>> Download PDF
File Name:flexaret repair manual.pdf
Size: 2120 KB
Type: PDF, ePub, eBook
Category: Book
Uploaded: 25 May 2019, 18:32 PM
Rating: 4.6/5 from 724 votes.
Status: AVAILABLE
Last checked: 8 Minutes ago!
In order to read or download flexaret repair manual ebook, you need to create a FREE account.
eBook includes PDF, ePub and Kindle version
✔ Register a free 1 month Trial Account.
✔ Download as many books as you like (Personal use)
✔ Cancel the membership at any time if not satisfied.
✔ Join Over 80000 Happy Readers
flexaret repair manualPLEASE title your thread wisely, so others searching for a certain make of camera or repair person can find your thread easily! But recently it has been acting up. The problem I have is that when I wind the film the shutter fires before I have even pressed the shutter release. Furthermore sometimes when I fire the shutter the aperture blades do not close properly. My impression is that this would be an easy fix for a repairer but considering my local repairer would charge the price I paid for the camera just to have look at it, I don't think it'll be worth paying to repair. So that's why I'm here I was just wondering if anyone had a repair manual for the camera or if anyone had any idea what I should do and if this would be easy enough for someone who has never repaired their camera. In that case the cocking lever is not arrested at the end of the cocking stroke and returns immediatly and opens the shutter. This is not something which you could easily address unless the complete shutter happens to be a bit rotated. It might not be so practical with postage costs from Oz of course. Good luck. I guess I'll have to look around and see if there is a cheap repairer otherwise I might have to forgo this medium format adventure unless I can find a bargain TLR. It would be great if someone could explain how to disconnect this final bit. Disassembly is tricky, as you will have to make an special instrument for unscrewing the part with lenses. Flexaret repair is definitely for the bold and adventurous. I guess the complexity of the repairs keeps the prices of these cameras low. My Flexaret VI now requires medical attention after a decade of sleep. My local repair guy flat out refuses to work on it. Pity. It's a beautiful camera but not worth the expense and effort to ship it back and forth with Cupog for repairs either. You may link to content on this site but you may not reproduce any of it in whole or part without written consent from its owner.http://www.roxracing.eu/userfiles/fdic-securitization-manual.xml
- Tags:
- flexaret repair manual, flexaret repair manual, flexaret repair manuals, flexaret repair manual.
Discover everything Scribd has to offer, including books and audiobooks from major publishers. Start Free Trial Cancel anytime.Browse Books Site Directory Site Language: English Change Language English Change Language. Shadowed by the legendary Rolleiflex, the Czech Meopta Flexaret were luxurious, discrete, twin-lens cameras at least as mechanically complex as the Rolleiflex. It justified its proud “Automat” appellation by cranking dozens of wheels and arms, advancing the film, reloading the shutter and God knows what else, every time a picture was taken, and this, without any battery. In a way, a kind of a prehistoric iPhone camera (take that Apple). To sum-up: one of my favorite cameras ever. The Flexaret story ended around 1970, the day USSR decided to redirect Meopta factory skills to a unique People friendly cheap camera, the ugly and sad Lubitel, the Rolls-Royce of cameras had to become a Lada. Life is sad sometimes, folks. When I received the invoice for shutter fixing and cleanup, I decided to give it a try myself, and framed the invoice that definitely had too many zeros in the total price line. The trouble was about to start. The Czech Metax being a copy of Compur shutters, I helped myself with Compur guidelines. The mechanism is a real piece of clockwork. It is truly impressive how all speeds are calibrated with gears rotating depending on the ring position. A spring was broken (the 249 on that authentic Compur lubricating manual) on the main trigger rotating piece, and the blades were stuck together. The spring was easily fixed with a rather small metal wire twisted around the screw. Here are some results, from a perfect cloudy day for photography. It was of course, developed using Caffenol. Now I am enjoying and crossing fingers hoping that quintessence of analog technology will not explode in a thousands springs next time I hit the button. Bookmark the permalink.How could I desassembly the front block?http://www.swalaya.in/userfiles/fdic-trust-examination-manual-pdf.xml Leave This Blank: Leave This Blank Too: Do Not Change This: Your email. To do that, I need. I am from Sri Lanka, Asia. I found my father's flexaret IV recently a. Recently my Flexaret VII film advancement knob got really har. I've just posted a photo of my newly acquired Flexaret. I was wondering i. I need some information I want to buy a standard flexaret or other I have. Unfortunately my Flexaret VII ha. But the viewfinder is too dim when s. I have a VI and having a 35mm film loaded it is limiting the number of ex. I found my father's flexaret IV recently and found that it's not working. The shutter seems to be stuck. This camera was used by my father to capture picture of us when we were young and i am quite interested in repairing this to working condition. When i gave the same to a Sri Lankan camera repair shop, they informed me that they are unable to repair as they do not have spares. The lens seems to be full of fungus. If only i could get this to mechanically work, i will be quite happy. Does anyone know a place where i could get this repaired. It would be nice if you know any of the asian countries, like India, Singapore, UAE, Thailand etc.Best to look on the interenet and find a model exactly the same as your fathers to use, and use your fathers as a paper weight! It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I put a new screen in my Flexaret Automat and as I was doing that, inevitably, some of the screws slipped off the magnetic tip of my screwdriver and fell into the bowels of the camera. I shook them out apart from one, it got stuck somewhere in the focusing assembly. I then had to dismantle the camera, took out the taking lens, then the front face. I found the screw, fixed everything together just to find out that the release button is on the same level as the front face, it won't come back out. I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it back up again.http://schlammatlas.de/en/node/24872 There is no spring underneath it and nothing points to a broken one. Does anybody have a repair manual or any inside as to how to fix this. Any help would be much appreciated.Is it possible that the interlock mechanism in your camera was accidentally disconnected during your repairs. I'm sure you already know that to operate the shutter with the camera back closed there needs to be film in the camera. With no film in the camera, you must open the back to fire the shutter. For your model, the below links may be helpful.I know that for getting to the screw in the vicinity of the shutter release button you have to turn the wind knob so that some sort of metal thingy moves out of the way. The question now being, is that the reason for the shutter button to stay down. There is one repair shop in Gorlitz here in Germany, they specialise in east german gear, especially Pentacon Six etc. Maybe they know a thing or two about Flexarets. Otherwise I'll just disassemble the whole thing and hope for the best. A repair manual would be of great help, so far, I have found nothing. cheersBy continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. If you have a Photrio account, please log in (and select 'stay logged in') to prevent recurrence of this notice.We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I've looked high and low (Bing, Google, eBay, etc.) but haven't had any luck. Thanks for the help! They should get you close. You don't really need a manual as there is no film counter. It works like any other simple TLR. We know from our users’ experience that most of people do not really attach importance to these manuals. Many instructions, immediately after the purchase, go into the trash along with the box, which is a mistake. Get acquainted with the information concerning the manual for Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI, which will help you to avoid troubles in the future. You will then acquire basic knowledge to maintain Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI in good operating condition to make it easily reach the intended life cycle. Then you can put away the manual on a shelf and use it again only in a situation where you're not sure whether you perform maintenance of the product appropriately. Proper maintenance is a necessary part of your satisfaction from Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI. Once a year, clean the closet where you keep all your devices manuals and throw out the ones that you don't use. This will help you maintain order in your home base of manuals. The F lexaret Automat VI was in production from 1961-1967. This camera is a multiformat camera, 6x6 and 35 mm. The number 60 shows when 120 film is used. When the ca mera is loade d with 35mm film, y ou need to rotate the frame counter reset knob behind the frame counter.The focus leve r (which oper ates similar to the Minolta Autocords) has a depth of field indicator built into it.Why is it worth reading? If something bad happens while using a Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI, you will have a set of documents that are required to obtain warranty repairs. It is in this part of the manual that you will also find information about the authorized service points of Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI as well as how you can properly maintain the device by yourself so as not to lose the warranty for the product. Use the instructions of the Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI manufacturer to run the product properly, without unnecessary risk of damage to the equipment. You will also be able to find out what optional parts or accessories to Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI you will be able to find and buy to your device. This is a very useful part of the manual which will save you a lot of time related to finding a solution. 90 of the problems with a Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI are common to many users. Read to optimally use the Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI and not to consume more power than is necessary for the proper operation of the product. You will learn what additional features can help you use the product Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI in a comfortable way and what functions of your device are the best to perform specific tasks. It is good to get acquainted with it to avoid disappointments resulting from a shorter exploitation time of the product Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI than expected. However, if you cannot be convinced to collect manuals at your home, our website will provide you with help. You should find here the manuals for most of your devices, including Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Many of these TLR's are similar in construction. If it's anything like Rollei or Yashica, there are four small screws, two on each side of the viewing hood, which secure the hood to the body. By removing these screws you can carefully lift the hood off to reveal the mirror (in the body) and the screen attached to the hood by spring clips. Take care to replace the screen exactly as it was fitted, the correct way up etc. There may also be shims - thin slips of metal - to place the screen at the right position for correct focus. Again this is how it is with Rollieflex's and similar, I would be surprised if the Flexaret is all that different.I was expecting someone to answer Jim as I have a Flexaret VII with a dirty screen. One time, I sent an email to one Flexaret vendor in eastern Europe. Blah, blah, blah, but, he never told me how!GEE!, you have to dismantle the camera to bare bones in order to reach the screen! The knob style was also easier to use and it gave Meopta the oppertunity to step away from the classic red window still used in the Flexaret III. Further changes were made in the form of the Lens, a new Tessar type lens called the Belar replaced the older Triple type lens Mirar. The Belar lens would serve on all later types of Flexarets. Other changes consisted out of:Underneath the main shutter there was a treated hole to use a cable release.To reach the ground glass one didn't have to screw the hood off anymore, it was now reachable with screwing off the name plate of the Flexaret.On the other hand, the new shutter linkage made the camera a little more complex to repair. The body is covered in black leather. The Meopta logo is on the black sports finder of the viewing hood. The name plate is marked flexaret only.There's no automatic stop; check the ruby window in the back for the next frame number to appear. The tip of the lever folds for compact transport, like on the Minolta Autocord. The shutter speed ring is around the taking lens. Transport does not set the shutter, it must be set with a small, red-tipped lever on the right side of the lens.It's wise to find out if the crank mechanism still works when you purchase a Flexaret III(a) because repairs might be impossible.The stopping down is stepless and controlled by a lever under the lens. Meopta made push-on filters for the Flexaret II, III, IV and V. They have a 30mm diameter. On the Flexaret VII and VI, an internal and external bayonet (B36) was used. This means filters produced for the earlier Flexaret models can not be used on the later models.The shutters are either Prontor-S or Prontor-SVS. The fast speeds on the shutter ring of this export model are on the left, contrary to european model.Amazingly, the front elements of the Mirar II can just be screwed off, giving access to the shutter blades and allowing one to clean the lenses. ISBN 0-931838-40-1 (hardcover). ISBN 0-931838-41-X (softcover). p662. If you are here, it was rather the case. However, you are not the only person having problems with keeping the operation manual of all household devices. Below are few guidelines regarding how and why you should collect the product manuals. These differ from each other with the amount of information we can find on a given device: e.g. Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI. However, we believe that the manuals should include the most important and needed information about Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI, not to discourage the user to read. Obviously, if a device Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI has multiple advanced functions, we will not avoid a high amount of information in this document. Then, it will be much easier to find it than look through the purchase boxes which have already been thrown away by you or any other of household members. It will be enough to clear the drawer once in a year and throw away any manuals of the devices you do not use anymore. Thus, you can avoid storing any unnecessary documents and keep only those which are valid. You can also download and print the manual Meopta FLEXARET AUTOMAT VI to place it in your drawer. If you’d like to contribute towards this site’s growing hosting and cloud storage fees, here’s how. Meopta changed owners and names over the course of their history, but they were the most successful of all Czech camera makers, and the Flexaret TLRs are one of the highest regarded camera marques not made in Germany or Japan. In high school, I took a class called Western Civilization which mostly focused on the growth of Europe from 1500, up until the mid 20th century. Towards the end of the school year, we got into the first and second world wars and how the Soviet Union was formed. While I am sure countries like Czechoslovakia came up in school, for the life of me, I cannot remember anything I would have learned. When it comes to technology and precision instruments like cameras, you always think of Germany, Japan, the United States, and even England. Sure, I know other countries like France and Italy made their own cameras, but before I started collecting cameras, I would have never thought that there was (actually, they’re still in business) a very reputable camera maker in what is now the Czech Republic. The company made all kinds of optics related products such as condensers and lenses. Their lenses were used by other manufacturers for enlargers, binoculars, projectors, and cameras. As the company grew, they started making their own cameras, binoculars, rifle scopes, and slide projectors. Once war broke out and Germany occupied the country, Optikotechna continued making military optics for the German war effort. This line of cameras would be re-released as the Flexette in 1939, which would be the basis for future Flexaret models. Although Meopta continued production of optical equipment for their military, they continued to expand as one of the world’s largest suppliers of cinema projectors in the 50s and 60s. By 1955, as a result of decreased need for military applications, Meopta strongly shifted their focus towards civilian products. There was never a time when the Flexaret was completely redesigned. This taking lever was redesigned as a long curved piece of metal with a depth of field scale in between dual knobs on the Flexaret V. The Minolta Autocord had a very similar type of focusing system which is said to be easier to use one-handed. The Flexaret VII also had an adjustable “transmission” that allowed for 6cm x 4.5cm shots to be taken with a baffle inside of the film compartment. You would switch between 6?6 and 6?4.5 size shots by turning a dog bone shaped piece of metal on the side of the camera. As a result of changing communist political pressure, Meopta discontinued making civilian cameras around 1971 and focused on other products for the Optics industry. Even the “History” section on Meopta’s current website only has one entry each from the 70s and 80s with a very vague description that they continued to make other military products for Warsaw pact countries and that they made rifle scopes. Somehow they managed to survive through the collapse of the Soviet Union, and in 1992, became a privately owned company once again. In 2005, TCI was renamed Meopta USA, Inc and continues to be one of the world’s leading maker of optic products. These are wonderful cameras that are made with the highest precision, and if taken care of throughout their life, continue to work well today. They look unlike any other camera, and when shooting with them in public, they often draw the attention of passers by. Around the time I received my Yashica-Mat, I was told that the Flexaret VI and VII were excellent models to check out too, but being in the US, there weren’t many for sale.Then one day, some seller from Indiana had an auction for an “old” camera. He didn’t say what brand it was, or what model. He didn’t even show a picture of the camera. All I could see was the leather case, and I could very clearly make out “Flexaret VII” embossed into the leather. When the camera arrived, I was delighted to see that not only was there an old camera in the case, but it was definitely a Flexaret VII! I did a quick wipe down of the body and lenses to get the grime off it, but I noticed that there was a lot of debris trapped inside of the viewfinder beneath the ground glass. On my Yashica-Mat, I took the viewfinder off and was able to release the mirror from it’s clasp and give it a good cleaning. Sadly, the Flexaret isn’t as easy to disassemble. There are no visible screws or any obvious way to take it apart. I found a site online that mentions that the first step to disassembling it, is to remove the leatherette which hides some of the screws. Since the body and leatherette were in good shape, and the camera seemed to work, I didn’t want to risk doing any cosmetic damage to the body since it would have been nearly impossible to replace the covering on this camera. The viewfinder was dirty, and the ground glass had yellowed a bit, but it was still very usable. I was able to give the taking lens a good cleaning so I loaded in a roll of Kodak Ektar 100 and went shooting. While I like square photography, I am not good at framing with the extra height, plus switching over to 6?4.5 gives you 16 exposures on a roll of 120 as opposed to 12. Remember that Meopta was an optics company first and a camera company second, so it should be no surprise that the pictures will be crisp, with excellent contrast and color rendition. I noticed no chromatic aberration or vignetting in the corners (although to be fair, I was using the 6?4.5 baffle). This is probably my favorite shot from my first roll. The resolution and sharpness on this picture is amazing. This was taken in the middle of the Blackhawks 2015 playoff run to the Stanley Cup. I didn’t quite get the exposure perfect on this, but I like the coloring and level of detail. I’ll cover them in the order you’re likely to encounter them. On the photographer’s left side of the camera, near the top, is a small knurled metal knob that must be unscrewed and then pressed to release the catch for the back door. The very first time I tried to open the door of my Flexaret, I couldn’t figure this out. It looks like you just push this knob in, but it doesn’t do anything unless you unscrew it first. Once you have closed the door, you screw it tight to keep the door latched. It’s a foolproof way of assuring the door will never accidentally open, but it’s not immediately obvious to a new user. It just presses into position. There is no special tools required to install it. Load the 120 film like you would on any other TLR. However, if you plan on shooting 6?4.5 photos, you must have the baffle in place prior to inserting the film. The baffle only goes in one way, so pay attention to the little protrusion and make sure it goes into the notch on the body otherwise it can fall out. See the image to the right showing the baffle correctly installed inside of the camera. I was still able to approximate a 6?4.5 frame by not composing anything near the top or bottom of the viewfinder. If the number 60 is upright and 45 is upside down, that means it is set for 6?6 photos. Pull the transmission lever out and rotate it 180 degrees so that the 45 is upright and 60 is upside down, and it will be set for 6?4.5 photos. If you cannot get a grip on the transmission lever, there is a metal pin you can push on from inside the film compartment that will push the transmission lever outwards from the body of the camera. This makes rotating it a lot easier. Normally when loading 120 film into a 6?6 camera, you must wind the film onto the take-up spool until the start indicator on the backing paper (which is usually a double sided black arrow) is lined up with two white dots inside of the film compartment. When shooting 6?6 photos on the Flexaret VII, this procedure is exactly how it is on other cameras. However, when shooting 6?4.5, you must line up the start indicator a little farther along, so that it is just starting to roll onto the take-up spool.This is how you get 16 images on a single roll as opposed to 12. If you do not properly roll the film so that the Start indicator is on the take-up spool, the film will not be ready for the first frame. Yes, that’s right, counters. There are 2 of them on this camera. The frame counter on the left has to be manually turned by the photographer and is not internally coupled to anything. This left counter has the numbers 0 through 4 on it. The right frame counter is coupled to the camera and goes from 0 through 9. When loading film into the camera, you must manually turn the left counter to 0, and the camera should automatically set the right frame counter to 1 indicating that you are ready for your first exposure. This dual frame counter system is needed to shoot rolls with 24 or 36 exposures. You can even use the 6?4.5 baffle with 35mm film and shoot 24mm x 24mm exposures on 35mm film. When doing this, a 24 exposure roll will get you 32 shots, and a 36 exposure roll will get you 48. It would have been a huge technological feat to make an automatic frame counter that could go all the way up to 48, so Meopta chose to do with this two counter method. Advancing the film requires a lot more effort than on the other two TLRs I’ve used. I’ve read that this is common among Flexarets, but it might be something that would concern a new user because it almost feels like something is wrong when you advance the film. There is a flip up magnifying glass that helps with fine focus, and there is a little door in the viewfinder lid that can be used as a “sports finder” for fast action shots. There is a small lever on the left side of the camera that enables “stops” which you can feel while focusing. This design is said to be easier to use one-handed, but in my opinion, using a TLR should always be a two handed task. My Yashica-Mat has a knob focus on the side of the camera which I find to be really easy to use. The Flexaret’s way isn’t any easier or harder, it’s just different. A cool feature of the focusing system is that you can use it with or without stops. If you want there to be stops, there is a little sliding lever on the left front side of the camera, right in front of the accessory shoe. This system is similar to the one on the Aires 35-III L which I have reviewed on this site. Read that review for a thorough explanation of a coupled LVS scale and how EV values are calculated. In a nutshell, all you need to do is know the EV value of a scene, set the camera to that value, and then you are free to change aperture or shutter speed and the exposure will always be the same. The red numbers are EV values, and the black numbers are aperture sizes. This system was designed to simplify setting the exposure, but I don’t find it easier to use. When shooting outdoors, I prefer to use the Sunny 16 rule and set the shutter speed and aperture myself. You can still do this with the Flexaret, but it involves pulling back on the black lever pointing to the red EV values, and keep it held back while selecting your chosen shutter speed and aperture. If you let the black lever return to it’s “normal” position, it locks the shutter speed and aperture to whatever EV value the lever is pointing at. This is a little hard to explain, but if you have a Flexaret VII in front of you, it should be pretty obvious how it works. The Flexaret manual linked at the top of this review has a decent explanation of this system on page 18 of the PDF manual (its the one that someone hand wrote the number 10 in the upper right corner of the page.) Since the shutter is coupled to the film advance, there is no separate procedure to cock the shutter. If you are sure the shutter has been cocked, and the shutter release button cannot be pressed, check that the shutter is not locked via the sliding lever above the shutter release. A red dot will be visible when the shutter is unlocked. To lock it, slide the locking lever towards the direction of the red dot. You should only cock the shutter when you are ready to take another exposure, because according to the manual, storing the camera for an extended length of time with the shutter cocked can cause the tension spring to weaken and possibly fail. Whether that’s a good thing or a bad thing is entirely up to you. The best news is that the Meopta lenses are very good, so if you’re willing to try something a little different from other TLRs, you will be rewarded with some spectacular shots. The Rolleiflex was such a great camera, that it was copied by almost everyone, and for me, that can get a little boring. Meopta went with their own formula and developed a truly world class camera. Compared to my Yashica-Mat in outdoor scenes, the difference is noticeable, but not a deal breaker. Indoors however, the yellowing and dirt can get in the way. Maybe I’ll spring for a CLA some day, or become brave and try disassembling it myself. Until then, this is still a very capable shooter that I look forward to shooting with again. I hear that is is common with this line of TLR’s. I did check into having the mirror replaced but it would have cost about more than I originally paid for the camera.I am torn with this camera. Although I find my Yashica-Mat ever so slightly easier to use, and the viewfinder in the Yashica is bright and clean, I love the ability to shoot 6 x 4.5 images in the Flexaret. Not only do I get an extra 4 exposures out of a roll, I prefer the aspect ratio of that over the 6 x 6. In either case, I have 2 excellent TLRs to choose from which is a good problem to have! ?? They don’t teach us our own modern history so much in school here either, partly because the people are only slowly losing their fear of censorship and police informers. After 1968, there was a period called “normalisation”, which was pretty grim, the Soviets came with tanks and were shooting up buildings like the national museum to kill our national pride. So this might be the reason for Meopta’s inactivity thereafter. It was the most exciting thing, after PE and IT classes. Regards, Lukas We had those kinds of overhead projectors here in the US too, although Im sure they weren’t the Meotar. Kids these days will never know the pleasure of seeing your teacher writing on the wall! ?? It is very helpful.