fl-2100z service manual
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fl-2100z service manualPlease do not offer the downloaded file for sell only use it for personal usage. Looking for other manual? For this no need registration. May be help you to repair. You could suffer a fatal electrical shock. Instead, contact your nearest service center. Note! To open downloaded files you need acrobat reader or similar pdf reader program. In addition, Also some files are djvu so you need djvu viewer to open them. These free programs can be found on this page: needed progs If you use opera you have to disable opera turbo function to download file. If you cannot download this file, try it with CHROME or FIREFOX browser. Translate this page: Relevant OTHER forum topics: Yaesu FTL7002 UHF ado-vevo Sziasztok! Tudna valaki segiteni Yaesu FTL-7002 tip. URH ado-vevo mukodesi tartomanyanak a boviteseban. Nem talalok anyagot hozza.Most 450-490Mhz kozott mukodik, de nekem 430-450Mhz-ig kellene. Ha tud valaki segiteni megkoszonom. Udv:pandora yaesu FYG-3u hasznalata sziasztok.CsabaYou can write in English language into the forum (not only in Hungarian). Two horizontal mounted fans cool the tubes. The earlier models FL-2100 and FL-2100B are largely similar but cover fewer bands. During SSB transmission after tuning like this, the Ig meter never deflects beyond 100 mA. Average Ig during SSB is what's important. Peak Ig, which your Ig meter will not read, is not important.Still I see it advertised in ads. Remember that the real output is about half of the input power. My table shows the results of a test with new (Taylor, RF Parts) tubes in one of the amplifiers. Because the voltage of the electricity during a day is not constant, the output was measured at three different times for three consecutive days. Used were: 100 W transmitter, Bird dummy load and Bird 43 Wattmeter with a 2.5 kW slug type 2500H and a 1 kW type 1KP for 160 m. The AC was on the 220 V taps of the power supply. A resistor in series with the filament circuit drops the voltage for the two tubes.http://www.ka-base.no/images_content/farfisa-dp-300-manual.xml
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So you have an idea about what output you can expect. The lower output on the 160 m band is due to the very low Q of the anode circuit, because the manufacturer has cut the components. The lower power on the higher bands is due to the decreasing efficiency of the tubes and the higher circuit losses on the higher frequencies. Tuning was according to the manual with a dip at 10 m. The output could only be achieved with an additional tuner between IC7000 and FL2100Z. Because the 9 fixed tuned input circuits are designed with that system it was left intact to keep the SWR modest. The neutralization method in the manual reduces the output of 10 and 12 m significantly. The stability can be checked (with a non-active exciter) by loading the amplifier into a 50 Ohm dummy load. Note the idle current while slowly turns the Plate and Loading knobs clock and anti clockwise. Repeat this procedure on each band. If there is no change of the idling current, your amplifier is stable enough. In the referenced article there may be useful technical information and modifications for your Yaesu amplifier. One of the first FL2100Z that I inspected had this fault but the valves survived because the protection circuit had been installed. Attempts to get the contacts right failed because the transparent lid did not fit well on top of the relay system. At first I thought it was a failure of one device, but a following FL-2100Z was manufactured with the same deviation. Check your PA at this fault! It is best to earth VC1 to one of the valve sockets (or a common earth) with heavy wire or, even better, a piece of coax. It is shown in the diagram how the ground connection of VC1 has been shielded from the ground of the valve sockets. (This is common to a lot of amplifiers.) That caused is my belief instability and undesirable oscillations. A shorter solid direct connection forces the HF current from VC1 in one direction straight to the tubes.http://www.fafor.pl/img/farfisa-g7-manual.xml Drill a hole in the socket compartment and possibly mount a grommet. Insert some protection against the wire touching the chassis or ensure that the wire does not touch the chassis anywhere else. However he kept on having parasitic oscillations. He tried almost everything until finally in desperation used only one wire from VC1 to one valve socket. Then, to his great relief, the amplifier became very stabile and both tubes had the same healthy red shine by long continuous transmissions. PA7TWO’s experience once again shows that it is important to select (as I advised in my other PA articles) a single connection point, common to both valves, as close as possible to the valve sockets. The other end is only connected to the tuning capacitor. The next owner of the amplifier has that noticed because after a heavily flashover in one of the tubes the fuse was melted and the grid resistors R7 and R8 were blown. Often no replacement is available. Suggested is to protect all panel meters with back-to-back connected diodes. Bridge rectifiers are very suitable too.Hans has an extensive guideline with many pictures on his homepage:.Almost every linear amplifier that I get leaves with the same protections. During long transmission period's e.g. during a contest, slow scan TV, RTTY etc.Often this results in damage to the doorknob capacitors that will crack or short through overheating. During long transmission period's e.g. during a contest, slow scan TV, RTTY etc.They crack or break by overheating shortcut is also commonplace. Links you can see how a defective copies PA7TWO has replaced by more modern types. On the left shows how PA7TWO has replaced faulty capacitors by more modern types. With the modern semiconductor transceivers this results in problems due to the fluctuating SWR. An external or internal tuner is required to drive the linear properly with sufficient power. Using a trimmer can improve results even more.https://www.cocreationsmanager.com/blog/ducati-monster-1200-owners-manual Wiring using coax cable can help but often the capacitor is required due to the cabling around the relays. This method can be used up to frequencies of several 100 MHz without noticeably reducing fundamental power. The main function is to provide a high impedance path in series with other (tank) circuit elements. However such method can be used only where the fundamental and parasitic frequencies are sufficiently far apart, so that excessive resistive losses of the fundamental frequencies are avoided. A mat surface rather than a polished surface may provide sufficient surface resistance.They prevent parasitic oscillations in the VHF region. The value of a resistor is not critical (22 -100 Ohm) but it needs to be non-inductive and has the purpose to broadband for VHF. Make sure to ask for the 3 W ones. Mount the resistor next to the coil, not inside it.However use 13.5 cm and use the 1.5 cm to wind around the legs of the resistor and solder it. Use standard tinned wire because this introduces additional losses on VHF ensuring a broadband functioning of the trap. Possibly you may fix the coil. An amplifier was investigated and showed a repaired choke, apparently the RFC also burned due to a defect tube. To restore the previous owner had removed the damaged windings, a section rewound and then the loose ends soldered together. The coil becomes a false resonance in the 12 m segment making it virtually impossible to obtain some output on that band. By applying additional windings of thin (Teflon) insulated wire, I shifted resonance and the output on the 12 m band increased to the usual value. The anode dissipation of the Svetlana is subsequently smaller. If you look carefully then you’ll see that the valve is shorter than those of other manufacturers are and modification of the amplifier may be necessary to connect it. W8IJ uses a 100 K resistor to the centre of the filament winding to prevent this. A relay shorts this resistor to earth when transmitting. PA7TWO has applied this modification with success. Although there may be a place for this in some amplifiers in this amplifier and Heathkit SB-200, Ten Tec Centaur or Ameritron it is not required.In my opinion matched (real) transmitting tubes does not make sense. The HF current chooses the shortest route and therefore has a preference for one of the two tubes. If one anode is redder than the other is changing the tubes can compensate the difference. A DC of 40 to 50 V is sufficient for the tube to draw 250 mA as the grid is connected to the anode. With a new 572B a current of 250 mA should occur at 44 - 45 V. If possible use a current limiter, because during reactivate the current can increase suddenly so that continue monitoring could be necessary to maintain 400 mA. Usually I will not reactivate longer than an hour. Soon you will find out at which voltage a good tube drawn 250 mA, so you have an indication if another tube is better or not. In his Yaesu FL-2100 they perform like a charm. When he showed them to me they look like a copy of the CETRON 572B’s and when tested in my amplifier no differences with other brands could be detected. Foreign readers have asked me for an external system because it seems to be a problem to build in that system. See a simple, cheap and proven system that has been featured in many publications in the previous decade. Do not forget to mount the yellow-green earth wire in the system. That fits well with the fans already present. The modification has to be done here! They are narrower than the original cooler and fit alongside anode choke. Due to the construction, the tube receives a suitable transverse cooling of the underlying fans. Modifications, schematics and manualThe resource is currently listed in dxzone.com in a single category. The main category is Yaesu FL-2100 RF Power Amplifier that is about Yaesu FL-2100 RF Power Amplifier Links.Webmaster, add a Remote rating YAESU FL-2100Z Amplifier Repairs - The FL-2100Z amplifier referenced in the following images is the 6-Ban. FL2100 Modifications and Repairs - Common problems and improper operations of Yaesu FL 2100 RF power ampl. EB5AGV FL-2100Z Restoration - Repairing and restoring a Yaesu FL-2100Z amplifier. Yaesu FL2100Z operating tips - The Yaesu FL2100Z is a HF linear amplifier rated for 1200W PEP input,.Share this link with your friends, publish within popular social networks or send it via email.Service provided by Google FeedBurner. Download all, before decompressing Did You find this Service Manual useful. Share it: Was this file useful. Share Your thoughts with the other users. I'll try that modification. Yaesu FL-2100Z Linear HF Amplifier Mods. Two usefull modifications of the FL If you would like to Rapidly Download the Service Manual YAESU FL-2100Z LINEAR AMPLIFIER please click on the Download Logo above. Yaesu FL-2100. PDF User Manual for Yaesu FL One can hardly tell any difference from an FT-101E Sold in Europe by the Swiss importers as the Sommerkamp FT-277E, along with the Yaesu FL-2100 amplifier EB5AGV's Workbench: Yaesu FL-2100Z repair. I have a Yaesu FL-2100Z amp I'd like to sell. I bought it about 6 years ago.Type: All-mode HF linear amplifier.Log in We need to verify that you are not a robot generating spam. International Presents the Evolution of FL-2100B is know for it's reliability, using rugged 572B amplifier tubes, high FL-Amplifiers we will notice a lot of similarities in circuitry lay out, Relay you see in the above picture needed to be replaced, not surprising for an amplifier manufactured in 1965. The. TR relay I chose as a replacement for my early FL-1000 is the same antenna relay used in the FL-2100B and Much like the earlier. FL-1000 this amplifier had no tuned input circuitry. The input signal was fed Not unlike today's modern solid state With dual fans for cooling the five horizontally mounted Sommerkamp, It will read The FL-2100B was designed as a conservatively rated matching amplifier FL-2100F (Less 10 meter operation) Sommerkamp did not produced anything Wim Penders PA0PGA If you look closely, just below In order to complete the 10m input circuit This is new for 10 meters. Also you will need two On the -F- model IT'S A JOB !! I bought this from a really super person on. Fox Tango. My good friend Rick KA4ZSG. This is the finished amplifier after The FL-2100F did not come You can see that the contacts for the 75 meter One thing that may help in this Below See:Boys! The entire front panel will have to be Band switches if they can be found RF, make an extra effort to check everything. As you can see with a C222 takes a lot of heat from the 572B finals, if it's cracked or shows any C222 is the output coupling capacitor that This ceramic capacitor was removed from a working amplifier, but it's a time FL-2100 Series ceramic capacitors, make note of them. When ordering K313.something. So always double check your part numbers when ordering Regretfully I did not take But what you see here is Nicotine gravy on the main. RFC and a new RFC to the right which is going into the amp along with the new Cleaned, touched up with paint It looked like it was factory Bias Modification For Svetlana and Taylor 572B tubes Burned 33 ohm (1 watt resistors) in the grid circuit under Fans turning slow or not turning Also note there is a safety interlock under This switch will put a ground DIRECTLY ON YOUR. HIGH VOLTAGE power supply when the RF tank circuit top shield is removed. I RF parts is selling. TAYLOR tubes which they recommend for these in your amplifier. I for one have As a matter Tayolor tube. It's my understanding too that the Russian tubes do not hold up I have used the Sylvetlana tubes in place of 811 tubes in such This modification came from a Yaesu Technical. Bulletin. I did this to one of my amplifiers and the bias is adjusted for 0.03 The owners manual for the FL-2100B says to adjust I can only If you would like to read the entire thread you With proper Two hundred and When running the FL-2100 on 117 VAC you Now 200 Volds DC on That will be United States and you like your amplifier, It's child's play to move the taps DC plate voltage has dropped back to where it should be running at 2400 volts. To bring this into better view for you. I measured my so called 220VAC line into That's a lot when you take into Likely outside the USA, in. Europe and elsewhere the use of 220 VAC really means 220 VAC and surely it's In fact if you think about it you may If we have our amp wired as per the owners manual Move it up to 117 VAC at the TOP of the plate wiring diagram. In the center as per the book count down four screw contacts and you see the. Zero leave this where it's connected, however the of this jumper is connected to LEAVE THE ZERO contact where it is and Lastly you should have another ZERO contact at the bottom (Nearest the front panel) LEAVE IT WHERE IT IS. In Summary a picture is worth a thousand words: (The way the books shows Better not to have it flopping around in the Just do this. Shown for Europe 220VAC. Richard Measures AG6K I recommend you look His kit will require that you change out your parasitic chokes with Metal. Oxide Film resistors to lower the Q of the parasitic chokes, lowering the grid And one additional interesting feature of Richard's For Modern Amplifier-Tubes If and when All of the Yaesu linear That being said the FL-2100 amplifier is no The fans can be disassembled and If you can't feel the air flowing out of the top Use a heavy lubricant when you reassemble the fan Keep in mind the Japanese fans in your amplifier and. It's best if you have a VARIAC to test them at 100 VAC. If not you can Site Web Master Fox Tango International Tango International, 2004. All rights reserved. Relay line voltages never were Early units, the FL2100 and This line spikes to nearly Also if the tubes arc the relay line can dump 2000 It is not a good relay and bias system at FL21000 on 40 meters: The ICAS rating of two tubes is 320 watts dissipation. The FL2100 has little headroom for mistuning or long carriers. Instability Svetlana tubes have LOWER muC5 negative supply Later versions of FL2100Z, use a R303. This is This divider D304 is a half-wave Depending on other This can damage This circuit is FL2100Z, but it is Design ErrorA good design would NEVER do A pi-network transforms phase along with loadYaesu FL2100 design INCREASES the amount of feedback by several times. The tubes, having less mu andChanging tube brands (especially when a brand does not have the sameThis would disable the very poor feedbackThis would FULLY cut-off any Input SWR. The tuned input FL2100 series has. Check the requirement in the FL manual, or just measure it with a ma meter.Very few rigs can be connected without an external box. I have the 590S. The SG uses the same relay. I have a FL-2100B linear and it is working well with a direct wire. The 'Z' circuit is the same as my 'B'. Make sure to set the menu to use the relay and use the maximum transmit delay (setting '3' if I recall correctly). While I'm at it, all the Yaesu amps had a design flaw that was only seen after prolonged use. The transformer gets very hot when used for a long time. The insulation slowly melts until the primary coil shorts out badly, and consequently explodes. I talk from experience. Check the paper on the bottom of the transformer. If it's dark blackish, you have hours left. I now have made myself an external power supply that stays nice and cool. Like all old rigs, they need care and careful usage. I suggest you get the FL-2100Z. I guarantee many good 5 by 9 plus chats. Good luck. Look me up on QRZ.com if you need more help. 73, Mat, ZS6PEG Unless cheap cheap pass on it.Very few rigs can be connected without an external box. I suggest you get the FL-2100Z.It is wired for 110v so it would likely get more out if wired for 220. Very few rigs can be connected without an external box. I guarantee many good 5 by 9 plus chats. Good luck. Look me up on QRZ.com if you need more help. 73, Mat, ZS6PEG The Group moderators are responsible for maintaining their community and can address these issues. This includes: harm to minors, violence or threats, harassment or privacy invasion, impersonation or misrepresentation, fraud or phishing. Subject of the new topic. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Some background. I recently bought a 2100Z that presents high SWR to the radio. It's fine on 160, 40, 17 and 10 but the others are way high. I'd like to at least restore 80 and 20 to a useable state. Some of the redish brown caps when you take the back plate off, (are those the input caps??) are a little darkened but not totally black or anything. Just some are slightly darker than the others. I reckon I've identified which ones are for which band - 160m at the far right and up the bands as we go left. Correct? Are they the only caps that need to be replaced of are there others further in the amp that need looking at as well. Thanks Dene VK5DOIF you have no previous experience or local Elmer -- then the WORST thing you can due is to remove covers and start POKING around. How are your soldering skills?? Novices do not enter a Rugby match without some practice and conditioning. LAST, your problems with non-operational bands may be a corroded band switch or earlier owner hacks. There are numerous Internet resources as well as Service manual for that Yaesu Amplifier -- that you should read and have in your KIT before proceeding. FoxTango is one such resource. Go to bottom of this page. Amplifier Evolution.htm FoxTango photo of HV caps Click to expand. He should be a good Elmer and have country specific information for electronics repair parts, good repair techs, etc. w9gbIt's fine on 160, 40, 17 and 10 -- but the other bands are way high. Some of the redish brown caps when you take the back plate off, (are those the input caps??) they are a little darkened but not totally black or anything. Click to expand. YES, the input components are above the RF IN and RF OUT SO-239 connectors on the rear panel of your FL-2100Z. The value of those capacitors can be read from the schematic diagram. It is critical that the band switch contacts be CLEAN.That specific switch wafer for the band switch is between the 2 tube sockets in middle. Two photos are attached, the earlier layout used with FL-2100b and some early FL-2100z and the later PC board, torroids and traditional silver mica capacitors. Photo from EA5AGV. FL-2100b and early FL-2100z Register for a free QRZ account. My 2100B keeps on keeping on. In the past I have paired it with an FT-101E and a TS-440, and it is currently connected to my FT-1000MP. I also have an IC-7300 that runs barefoot. During past solar peaks I rarely used this amp, but during the current extended minimum I find I’m using it a lot. My 2100B is still all original, including the original Cetron 572B finals, and it is still capable of putting out rated maximum output although I generally run it at 500w, mostly CW. If only every piece of gear in my shack were this reliable! (Well, my 22 year old FT-1000MP seems to be as well.) A ham friend recently called me a Yaesu fanboy. It came with the original Cetron 572Bs, and I'm still running them without any loss of power--admittedly, I don't use an amp very often, but when I need it, it's there. Hams will tell you, you get the most bang for the buck with a 500w or 600w amp. Going to 1200w from 600w nets a 3dB gain--not noticeable. Going from 100w to 600w You get over an S-unit, often enough to make the difference between solid and marginal copy, or the little bit extra needed to bust a pileup. (As always, the time and money are first better spent on a good antenna system if you are able to put one up.) My fans began to bog down this year (after perhaps 25 years of use). I cleaned the motors, and now they run as good as new. All in all, a terrific amp--usually available, when you can find them, at a pretty good price. Attractive. Compact. Durable. Well made, and easy to use. Easily a 5. Amp is still working flawlessly. Requires less than 25W from my TS-850S to produce this output power. Gives my signal a little oomph. In addition to the HV supply updates, I have added LED lighting to the meters and most recently replaced the stock relay with smaller power relays that are much quieter. The amp almost sounds like a solid state amp. Amp is now running on 240V and I get much less of a voltage drop on transmit. One thing I like about the FL2100, it's very easy to work on. Mine puts out around 700-800 but I run it around 500watts key down out. Just an all around easy to use amp, and gives you a few dB punch to your signal. I since moved and had the amp in storage for three years. In my new house I had no convenient 220 VAC outlet, so I rewired it for 110 VAC. I also found that the bandswitch had stiffened up to almost be unusable. On taking the amp apart, I carefully lubed the moving parts of the bandswitch with light sewing machine oil, and added a couple of drops to the fans as well. Now the bandswitch clicks in just as before. I am careful to not overdrive the amp since I am on a 110 volt circuit. I am using it on 80 meters and it is working perfectly. My exciter is an Icom 7600 and it is switched with an Ameritron 704. Next I plan to replace the high voltage caps and I expect to get many more years out of this fine amp. I got it in 1978, just before the FCC banned 10 Meters on HF amplifies 1979. It still has the original Cetron 572B tubes that still a good output around 550W however, they are showing their age. I did have to send it back to Yaesu in 1995 for a bad rotary switch and they replaced, two mica caps, metal film resistor. They also told me the tubes were bad, I knew they were not, at that time, just another way to pad their repair cost. I took the advice from others who have posted their comments about replacement tubes on this forum to get the Taylor 572B tubes. In January 2014 I got a matched pair of the 572 BMP-TAY tubes fully tested from RF Parts. When old tubes pass on, I’ll replace them. I had it out of line for about 3 months when I moved. When put it back in line I didn’t do a good job of putting the ground back on the ground stud. I moved the amp around and un notice to me the ground came off. On key down I smelled a something burning. No visible smoke, however I noticed the S.W.R. A DC meter was no longer working. A great amp! Stephen, W6AKF It has two Taylor 572Bs installed, which the former owner believes were new and unused. Upon performing a visual inspection, I discovered the top cover over the tubes compartment was not fastened down. When that cover is removed, the HV is shorted to protect the uninitiated or careless ham. Had I applied power with the cover removed, serious damage would have been done to the amplifier. It is wired for 120VAC, and I connected it to a dedicated 20 AMP circuit, that I had installed for my AMP SUPPLY LA-1000A. As is my practice with all old gear, I warmed it up for about 5 hours at 85 VAC. I connected it to the station ground and was ready to go. I have a Yaesu FT-101ZD MK II (see my review of that rig) with which the FL-2100Z was intended to be used. I decided instead to drive it with my Kenwood TS-570S (see my review of that rig). The TS-570S, unlike the FT-101ZD, does not require tune-up and has an internal ATU that could be used between the rig and the amplifier, if necessary. Later, I learned that it is not necessary to use the internal ATU to match the driver to the amplifier. I connected the TS-570S and amplifier with a standard Kenwood ALC-RLY cable, made the antenna connections (using RG-8 cable, of course) and was ready to go. First, I turned off the internal ATU and connected the TS-570S to the antenna through an MFJ-989D tuner and obtained a 1:1 match. Second, I switched the meter on the MFJ tuner to high power (don't forget this step!) and applied about 30 watts drive to the FL-FL-2100Z. I rechecked the SWR to be sure I still had a good match to the antenna. Third, following the tune-up procedure in the manual, I gradually increased the drive power. Depending on the band 75-90 watts drive will produce full output. I have used it on CW and SSB on all bands (except 30 meters!). Output measured on my MFJ-989D is close to the theoretical maximum efficiency of 70 for two 572Bs in class AB2. On 160 meters, I get about 500 W on CW and about 650 W PEP on SSB. On all other bands, I get 600-700 W on CW and about 800 W PEP on SSB. It is easy to reduce the power to 300 W CW and 600 W PEP SSB for my Mosley TA-33 JR, which cannot handle the full power. My LA-1000A, by comparison, delivers meter readings of 450 W on CW and 500-600 W PEP on SSB. The FL-2100Z surely is a more robust amplifier. The cooling fans definitely can be heard, appear to do a good job, and are not objectionable. I rarely use an amplifier on CW and have too much respect for the 572Bs to use the FL-2100Z on AM. I just hope it continues to work as it now does. Driven by the FT101ZD3 as the exciter, 20 watts in gives 200w out, and it loafs along. Pointless beating it to death with loads of drive. Would have liked it to had illuminated meters, but that is a minor gripe. I built an external soft-start circuit for the amp, as it kept tripping the main breaker in the shack if i used it DOL. Recommended, but treat with care (like most things in life.) Happy Daze, Howard in the UK I have had no issues with mine and it has all original parts except for the tubes. I average about 750w PEP out with 75-100w of drive. I have done no modifications whatsoever and honestly see no need to. These are workhorse amplifiers and will usually last a long time if taken care of. I've always used the amp with a pilottaggio of 80 watts and antennas have low SWR 1.1 and I can say that the amplifier has always worked well without giving me any problems. In these 10 years I have not been very active and the amplifier has been stopped for about four years without ever being turned on. 2 years from now I began to do radio in a consistent and well my FL2100B had no problem to resume his work. Sper to be useful to someone leaving the following data: Power input max 80 watts Voltage HV 2400 volts band 80 mt output 850 watts band 40 mt output 850 watts band 20 mt output 850 watts band 15 mt output 730 watt band 10 mt output 650 watts Measurements with antenna SWR 1.2 and ROS Daiwa model CN801. What else to say. A GOOD LINEAR!! 73 de Angelo IZ0EAE When you subscribe, you receive only messages forOther useful informationThe site will be something of which everyone involved can be proud to say they were a part. Contact the site with comments or questions.