electrolux central vacuum installation manual
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electrolux central vacuum installation manualWe are the homeowners' experts. Plus, see 1000s of product reviews and FAQs from homeowners. Take a look at our blessedBakersfield. Your local BEAM Dealers are experts in installation, trouble-shooting and repair and can provide you with any additional assistance you may need. This guide will outline the necessary steps and procedures that should be taken to successfully install a central vacuum system in both an existing home and a new home being built. Before beginning any installation, it is important to plan each step carefully and consider all cleaning situations to properly plan how many inlets you will need in order to effectively clean the entire surface area of your home. Proper ventilation methods and building codes should also be taken into consideration before beginning your installation. The first step to any central vacuum installation is to gather all of the necessary tools. If you do not own a right-angle drill, rent one for use. Location of the Power Unit If possible, the power unit should be placed in a heated area like the utility room, garage, laundry or storage room. If the power unit is installed in a cold storage room, the vacuum tubing and the exhaust pipe should be insulated in order to avoid condensation. In buildings with two or more stories, always place the power unit on the lowest floor. If the unit is placed on the upper floor, the vacuum must be more powerful so that even the heaviest dust particles can be suctioned and transferred into the dirt recepticle. When selecting the mounting location, it is recommended that you ensure that placement does not disturb your neighbors or interfere with your own comfort and activities. Make sure that there is an electrical outlet nearby to power the unit and ample space for the system to ventilate while circulating air on all sides of the unit. There are several types of central vacuum power units.http://drhkltd.com/upload/dc2-type-r-service-manual.xml
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These include filtered paper bag systems, cyclonic action systems which use drop down filters, catridges or washable filters and true cyclonic separation systems. When using a true cyclonic unit, you must always vent the unit outdoors. All units can be mounted outdoors to increase filtration efficiency and rid the home of unwanted allergens and dust. Tubing System Design The most important principle for designing the layout of the tubing system is to keep it as short as possible. This will give the highest possible vacuum performance. However, the main tube can be routed in different ways. Before installing tubing to carry dust and dirt from the inlets to the power unit, plan your route. Running the tubing beneath the sub-floor whenever possible makes tubing easier to work with and creates the shortest path between the inlet valves and the power unit. If the tubing must run next to a water heater or chimney flue—for your safey and to comply with building codes—use metal central vacuum system tubing for that section. If the tubing runs through an unheated, cold or other unprotected environment, wrap it with insulation to prevent condensation and the possibility of clogging. In new one-story houses, the horizontal main tube is placed in the under-house crawl space or in the attic. In the under-house crawl space, the tubing should be insulated. Tubes to the inlet valves are routed in the partition walls or between secondary spaces, such as closets. In a cold attic, the tubes should be covered with insulation in order to avoid condensation. In two or multi-story houses, the main tube is placed in the under-house crawl space, attic, closet, or between walls. Existing homes can be a little different. The main tube can be installed on the surface in existing secondary spaces, such as a garage or storage room. The tube can also be routed through the attic and then vertically inside the partition walls and closets all the way to the inlet valves.http://filippodelvita.com/demo/userfiles/dc19-manual.xml A lowered ceiling and closet footings can also be used for routing of the tubes. Make sure to place the inlet valve accordingly so that you may reach effery corner of the room with a hose that is 25 to 35 feet long. When you've chosen a possible location for an inlet valve, use a piece of string that is cut to be 35 feet long and tape it or have someone hold it at the area where the inlet will be installed. Walk around the room with the piece of string making sure that it reaches every corner to ensure that you will be able to clean the entire room with a 30-35 foot hose. If you cannot reach every corner with a 35 foot piece of string, you may need to install additional inlets. When a possible placement area for an inlet valve has been found, use a stud-finder or sound-out the wall to make sure the site for the valve is between the studs and that the space is open behind the wall board. Also check the other side of the wall to make sure it's clear of obstructions such as utilities and outlets. Do not install an inlet behind a door or in a wall that has a pocket door. Mark the installation points of the inlet valves in the layout drawings using wire of the same length as the actual vacuum hose. The most suitable places for inlet valves are entrance halls and hallways. Typical Installation Examples In a typical hose only two inlet valves are needed. In such cases, the utility valve of the power unit can be used for cleaning the basement because it often covers the whole basesment area. In the house of the same size, the power unit is in the garage, where the utility valve serves as a third inlet valve allowing you to clean your car, for example. In this example, the main tube has been routed under the hose. However, the tube in the under-house crawl space should be insulated to avoid condensation. In this example, the simplest solution is to route the tubing in the attic. If the space is cold, the main tube should be insulated.https://www.interactivelearnings.com/forum/selenium-using-c/topic/17129/boss-dr-550-mkii-manual-download The whole floor area can often be vacuumed from one single inlet valve. The light, broken line indicates an alternative installation type where the unit is mounted in the basement. It is recommended to place the inlet valves in between different levels. In such cases, you can easily clean tow levels from one inlet valve. The power unit is placed in the storage room. Installation of the Wall Inlet Valves A typical wall inlet valve installation is shown in the figure on the right. A 90 degree inlet elbow is used in the wall installation to prevent long objects from entering into the system, protecting it against blockages. A 90 degree steep elbow can be fitted in two different ways. Note: A 90 degree inlet elbow must not be installed anywhere in the tubing system other than at the inlet. If the structures of the house prevent tubing routing, make slots like the ones shown in the figure to the right. Supporting structural elements of the house should not be slotted. If you cannot attach the mounting bracket properly to the batten wall, you can install a separate mounting board. Directly below the proposed site of the inlet valve, wedge the molding aside using a flat-bladed screwdriver. Then, take a wire coat hanger and snip a long straight piece from it. Insert the wire into the chuck of your drill and then holding the drill vertically beneath the intended site, slowly drill down into the floor alongside the baseboard or where the wall and floor intersect. Release the wire from the drill chuck and leave it in the pilot hole to serve as a locator. Then go to the basement and locate the wire protruding from the ceiling. Now you will be able to see where the inlet valve will be above you. Measure from the wire to find the center of the sole plate and wall cavity. Then, using a flashlight or probe, inspect the interior of the wall to be sure there are no obstructions. If there are any obstructions, you may have to move the site of the valve.https://domoticaaplicada.com/images/750-653-manual.pdf Make sure to cut in between the walls. Again, check for obstructions using a flashlight and a length of tubing. If there are no obstructions, go back upstairs and mark the inlet location on the wall. To do so, at the electrical outlet adjacent to the inlet site, measure up from the floor to the center of the outlet. At the proposed inlet site measure up from the floor the same distance. This will be the center of your inlet valve. If you prefer, you may locate the inlet at a more convenient height. In existing houses where tubes are routed underneath, a hole can be drilled for the tube using a guide hole as a template. Glue the 90 degree inlet elbow onto the sleeve of the mounting bracket. Then glue the dust tube into the inlet elbow. Roll the end of the cable two turns around the screws in the inlet valve and tighten the screws. Screw the inlet valve into the mounting bracket and make sure that the screw does not extend through the tube. If necessary, use shorter screws. In a complete wall structure, the mounting bracket is held in place by a hook as shown in the figure. Another method of installing an inlet valve is to take your wall mounting bracket, cut or snap off the new construction flange and dispose of it. Use a level to make sure the mounting bracket is level. Then trace the outline of the mounting bracket onto the wall. The top and bottom cuts are critical since the flange will rest on these areas. Take a utility knife and score the lines. Then use the utility knife or a drywall saw to cut a hole through the drywall. This will be much easier if you use a drywall saw. Attach a short 90 degree elbow to the flange on the back of the mounting bracket. Apply glue around the outside of the mounting bracket flange and twist the short 90 degree elbow into place. Make sure the open end faces the direction it will meet the tubing—usually straight down. Never apply glue to the inside of fittings or tubing. Apply glue only to the outside of the tubing. This will prevent glue from creating obstructions which could clog your system. Run about 6 inches of low-voltage wire through the guide hole in the mounting bracket. Split the wire into two strands and strip one inch of insulation from each strand. Wrap the strands in a clockwise direction around the screws on the back of the inlet valve. Then, tighten each screw. Next, attach a weight to the end of the low-voltage wire and drop it down to the basement or crawlspace. Have a length of wire coat hanger ready with one end bent into a hook. Insert the mounting bracket in place. Then, slide the inlet valve face plate along the wire hanger into the mounting bracket. Screw the valve into place. Remove the wire hook. Be sure to mount the inlet valve face plate so the lid pulls down to open. Then apply glue to an adequate length of tubing and aim it upward through the hole in the sole plate and into the short 90 degree elbow on the back of the mounting bracket. If you cannot locate a hollow wall, or the space between your walls isn't wide enough, there are two alternatives: one is to run the tubing through a concealed area, such as the inside of a closet, then run the tubing downward. Drill a hole for the tube also in the floor of the closet. Cut the tube to the proper length and glue it into the rebuilding sleeve. Mount the inlet valve in the rebuilding sleeve. Measure and cut the tube to the proper length so that it reaches with the inlet elbow to the vertical tube. Tubing System Installation Begin the main tube installation with the farthest inlet valve and place the tubes temporarily at first. Do not glue the joints yet until you have made sure that the tubing routing is correct. The glue will dry quickly; therefore, the joints have to be fitted right after applying the glue. The tubing system can also be installed in a floor that will be concrete casted later—shown in the figure to the right. In such cases, the low-voltage cable must be protected by a conduit pipe. The conduit pipe should be attached to the vacuum tube or the casting net. The ends of the vacuum tubes and the conduit pipes should be plugged before the concrete casting. Important notes for installation: 1. The 90 degree inlet elbow may be installed only together with the mounting bracket and the inlet valve. Anywhere else in the tubing system, 90 degree sweep elbows and 45 degree elbows should be used. 2. Tubes are cut straight so that the cutting line is not slanted. Use a miter saw if possible. Cut edges can be finished with a knife. 3. For tubing joints, use suitable PVC glue to make the fittings secure and tight. Apply a thin and even layer of glue only to the end of the tube - not to the sleeve. This will prevent glue from overflowing to the end face of the tubing. Close the glue can carefully immediately after use and make sure to have adequate ventilation during installation. Avoid inhaling glue vapors. Check the inlet with your local fire codes. How to Minimize Condensation If the tubing installation is carried out in winter, a large amount of condensation may be generated. To reduce the amount of condensation, close all pipe holes and inlet openings using duct tape during installation. Before starting to use the central vacuum system for the first time, let the system vacuum and circulate fresh air for a few minutes, and make sure that there is no water in the dust container. If there is water in the container, drain it and continue vacuuming until no more water is accumulated. Specialty Inlet Installations Owning and operating a central vacuum system in your home has many advantages. This is especially true because of the thousands of different specialty inlets that can be installed in your home. These include popular items like the VacPan and DrawerVac as well as the Hide-A-Hose, Wally-Flex and even the standard utility valve that can be used to clean the car in the garage. This next part of the installation guide will describe how to install all of these different specialty inlets. How to Install a VacPan VacPan systems are very popular in kitchens, bathrooms and even hallways. In fact, in some homes with all hard flooring, only VacPans are used. To properly use this type of inlet, sweep the floors as normal and kick open the VacPan to operate the suction while sweeping dirt and debris into the vacuum. To install your VacPan, first determine the best place to install the dustpan; either under a cabinet or in the wall. Keep in mind that the leading edge of the VacPan must sit flush with the finished floor. Plan the location of your dust pan to be conveniently located for sweeping clean-ups. Also consider ease of access of vacuum tube piping connections during installation. For maximum clearance, use a short 90 degree elbow for connection at the inlet. Do not glue the connection between the VacPan and elbow. Teflon tape may be used if required. Two inch wire re-inforced flex pipe may also be used. Run vacuum tube piping and low voltage wire from the main piping to the inlet location. Access for final piping connections must be made. If access is available from below, cut an access hole through the subfloor underneath the cabinet, positioned so that final piping connections can be made by reaching through the access hole. Access can be made through the finished cabinet floor. A cover plate can be used to cover the hole after installation. If required, score the back of the cover plate with a knife and snap it along the grooves for height adjustment. Slide the VacPan into the mounting slot and secure it to the toe kick using the two screws provided. To install a VacPan in an existing wall, locate the area between the studs. The inlet should be installed tight to one side in stud space. The 2x4 wall bottom plate between the two studs must be removed. This can be achieved from below by using a hole saw. In new home construction, the bottom wall plate can be removed directly. Floor contractor must run flooring under this block. Run vacum tube piping and low voltage wire from the main line to the inlet's location and make access for final piping connections. If access is available from below, cut an access hole through the subfloor underneath the wall between the studs, positioned so that final piping connections can be made by reaching through the access hole. Access can be made through the finished wall as well. A cover plate can then be used to cover this hole after completion of installation. Reach through the access hole and make the final fitting connections. This guide will provide simple installation instructions for a drawer-activated inlet in your central vacuum system. DrawerVac requires a level mounting surface for installation. It may be necessary to level the undercounter surface using plywood or other sheeting material. If you are installing the inlet in a drawer application, trimming the back of the drawer may be necessary to create the required clearance for DrawerVac to fit. Begin by mounting the cover to the under-counter surface using the 2 interior screw holes as shown to the left. Be sure the front edge of the cover is flush with the cabinet face. Warning: Be sure not to drill or screw through the top of the counter. Install the DrawerVac assembly using the remaining 8 screws, with the tray inserted in the shell. Connect the central vacuum piping to the inlet using either solid or flexible central vacuum piping. Connect the low voltage wire with the 2 screws shown on the right to complete your installation. Do not install the power unit where the ambient temperature regularly exceeds 120 degrees Fahrenheit. If mounting on plaster, wall board or panel walls, be sure mounting bolts enter studs. If mounting on a block or concrete wall, drill the holes with a masonry bit and insert plastic or lead anchors. To power the central vacuum system, a 24V low-voltage cable is routed to each inlet valve. Parallel connection is made according to the figure to the left. It is recommended that low-voltage cable be installed in a conduit pipe and this is absolutely necessary when cables are to be hidden in cast concrete. If the cable becomes defective, it is also much easier to change it afterwards. In these installations, only certified electrical components may be used. To attach the low-voltage wires, strip the wire and crimp the strands into the two spade terminals provided. Attach the terminals and plug the power unit into the dedicated electrical outlet. If an outlet is not located within 6 feet of the power unit's location, an electrician can carry out the installation. Once plugged in, the sentry light should come on. Turn on the switch, if applicable, and the power unit should turn on. Attach the remaining section of tubing to the power unit with connectors and clamps. Do not glue this connection because you may need to disconnect the system at a future date. For added installation convenience, some power units may have inlet connections on either side. If your system uses a muffler, clamp it to the exhaust port. Please note that true cyclonic units must be vented to the outside. Other units may be vented to the outside as well. Use the same tubing and fittings. If vented, the exhaust air should not be vented into a wall, ceiling or concealed space of a building. Venting over 10 feet is not recommended. Tacoma WA. And by having access to our ebooks online or by storing it on your computer, you have convenient answers with Electrolux Central Vacuum Manual. To get started finding Electrolux Central Vacuum Manual, you are right to find our website which has a comprehensive collection of manuals listed. Our library is the biggest of these that have literally hundreds of thousands of different products represented. I get my most wanted eBook Many thanks If there is a survey it only takes 5 minutes, try any survey which works for you. However, with any powerful appliance, caution must be exercised while using this Powerbrush. You will find safety precautions and maintenance instructions outlined in this manual useful. When using an electrical appliance, the following basic precautions should always be followed: Close attention is necessary when by or near children. Avoid picking up sharp objects. Keep the cord away from heated surfaces. Do not run the appliance over the cord. Do not use with any openings blocked; keep free of dust, lint, hair, and anything that may reduce air flow. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. Unplug from outlet when not in use. Use only manufacturer's recommended attachments. The wand socket is designed with a positive stop. Therefore, the wand will not jam in the wand socket. For proper connection, ensure the spring button lock pops out (Figure 2). Lower the wands from the upright position. Switch hose to the ON position. Keep the brush roll free from hair and threads so it will continue cleaning. When the bristles of the brush roll no longer touch a piece of cardboard held across the bottom plate, the brush roll is ineffective because the bristles no longer touch the carpet nap. To maintain the most effective cleaning, install a new brush roll. The belt should be checked regularly to be sure that it is in good condition. Replace the belt if it is stretching, cracking or slipping. Cut away any hair or thread wound around the brush roll or belt pulley because the buildup could cause the belt to rotate unevenly. Turn unit over; pull up on hood to remove. Skip to step to place hood. Secure right end cap into base. THESE ONLY FIT Electrolux ERGOGRIP OVAL neck hose and wands. They will NOT fit ROUND necked hoses. If you are looking for ROUND necked attachments, please go to the 'Central Vacuum Attachments - Round Neck' category on your left. Fit ROUND neck hose and wands. If you have an Electrolux ErgoGrip, Oxygen or Beam Aspira oval neck hose and wand YOU WILL NEED AN ADAPTER. See: Electrolux Oval to Round Adaptor (4520) An Installation Design Manual as a PDF document, can be found under the details of each inlet kit to help you calculate your requirements.Privacy Policy. Beam New Zealand Brochure (main) The video shows the huge amount of dust collected after only a few strokes of the upholstery brush on a cushion of a couch. This is the dirt that we bring in on our clothes and which we push into the upholstery. Regular vacuuming will get rid of that dust from your home and lengthen the life of your valuable furniture. The trick is to turn the hose sideways when you plug the end fitting into the wall. The end of the hose bridges the contacts in the wall inlet valve and in doing that, overrides the switch on the handle and turns the System on. Call your local dealer and he will be able to replace the switch on the handle. Another HyperCube Website. New or existing homes? There’s no outside venting required. See your local dealer for installation details. Simply enlarging a closet or including an extra base cabinet is all it takes. If your builder is not currently installing BEAM systems, check out our BEAM Dealer Locator feature on this web site to find the dealer nearest you. Your dealer can do the job quickly and competently. See your local dealer for installation details. Check out the Do-It-Yourself installation page for step-by-step instructions. The key to success is planning a pipe system with a minimum number of inlets and elbows (turns in pipe) to keep labour time and costs at a minimum while still giving you the vacuum cleaning flexibility only a central vacuum system offers. For the ultimate in ease, add a VacPan automatic dustpan in kitchen, mudroom or bath. For more power, the fewer the inlets used the better. And be sure the hose will reach from the inlet valve to all corners (and around furniture) in the rooms you want to vacuum. Do not install inlet valves in a wall where there is a pocket door or behind a door. If you prefer, inlets can be installed in the floor. It’s best to run the piping under the floor if possible. In structures without basements, the piping may be run through the attic or crawlspaces. In an existing two- or three-story home, vacuum piping may be run to upper levels through cold air ducts, through the back of closets or under stairways, or beside a soil pipe. In new structures, pipe can be run through wall studs before drywall is applied. Be sure to plan where to locate the BEAM power unit — usually in the garage or basement. Then from the basement use the hole saw to drill a hole up into the wall cavity. (Remember to wear safety goggles throughout the installation process.) Using a section of wire cut from a coat hanger, drill a pilot hole through the carpet or hard surface floor. Drill as close to the wall as possible — pointing the drill bit at a 45-degree angle. Measure over from the coat hanger to find the center of the bottom of the wall plate. Using the hole saw, drill a hole into the wall cavity. Then, on the wall, center a mark above the pilot hole made by the coat hanger. Center the wall inlet bracket, trace the outline, then cut a hole in the wall. Attach the wall bracket to an elbow of pipe. Attach a small weight to the opposite end of the wire and feed the wire through the hole to the basement. Insert the inlet valve and bracket into the wall. Mount the inlet valve so the valve folds down to open. Use a sharp knife or sandpaper to eliminate burrs that might collect dust or hair that could form a dirt trap. Starting with the inlet valve farthest from the power unit, begin test fitting then gluing together sections of piping. Join sections of piping to the main trunk line that ties into the BEAM power unit. Splice together the low voltage wires along the trunk line. Run and connect the trunk line to the BEAM power unit. If mounting the power unit in the garage, drill a pilot hole through the wall using a wire coat hanger to check location and for obstructions. Feed piping into garage to unit. Strip the ends of the low voltage wire coming into the garage and connect them to the power unit. Then plug in the lightweight hose to clean up any minor mess you may have made installing the inlets. It will display a service message if there is a clog in the system or an internal electrical problem. I would recommend contacting a local service technician unless you are in the chicagoland region, in which we can help you locally. If you have any other questions feel free to reply and I can help! The unit will start by using the on-switch at the unit, so the motor is OK. There seems to be a problem with the low voltage system. How do I check that out? Thanks. Bypass the wires that are attached to it now, and complete that circuit to see if the problem is located at the power unit. If the problem is with the power unit, then it is the circuit board. If the problem is elsewhere, it is going to get a bit more tricky. Rarely is there a short circuit in the low voltage wire that runs throughout the home, but we have seen it before. If you’d like you can call us at our toll free number 1-855-649-7996 and we can help you out! There are several. it appears that all the wires coming in from the house, as well as those from the hose outlet on the unit, all come together, with wire nuts and tape; these are attached to two push-on connectors just below the on-off switch on the side of the unit.What service is needed and how can the life meter be reset? Notify me of new posts via email. You can unsubscribe at anytime. Subscribe Personal information provided may be collected, used and disclosed in accordance with our Privacy Policy Connect with Us Connect with us on your favourite social networks. We’ll let you know what we’re up to, and you can tell us how we’re doing. It covers the servicing, maintenance and repair of the product. Exploded views allow to identify all the part numbers and associated parts with the product in case they need to be replaced. This manual includes a description of the functions and capabilities and presents instructions as step-by-step procedures. Error codes and the Reference manual can also be included.