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eagle software manualSimple example of how to get started with a EAGLE design. All Design Parameters on one view. Vias, conductors, solder-stop, marking print, tolerances, etc. Alle Design Parameter auf einen Blick. Vias, Leiterbahn, Lotstopp, Positionsdruck, Toleranzen, etc. It's here where the dimensions of the board come together, parts are arranged, and connected by copper traces. In the board editor, the conceptual, idealized schematic you've designed becomes a precisely dimensioned and routed PCB. We'll also go over the basics of EAGLE's board editor, beginning with explaining how the layers in EAGLE match up to the layers of a PCB. The schematic designed in that tutorial will be used as the foundation for the PCB designed here. All of the parts you added from the schematic should be there, stacked on top of eachother, ready to be placed and routed. On the next page, we'll look at the colored layers of the board editor, and see how they compare to the actual layers of a PCB. The thickest, middle part of the board is a insulating substrate (usually FR4 ). On either side of that is a thin layer of copper, where our electric signals pass through. To insulate and protect the copper layers, we cover them with a thin layer of lacquer-like soldermask, which is what gives the PCB color (green, red, blue, etc.). Finally, to top it all off, we add a layer of ink-like silkscreen, which can add text and logos to the PCB. We use a palette of colors to represent the different layers. Here are the layers you'll be working with in the board designer: Any part of the green circle is exposed copper on both top and bottom sides of the board. These are usually covered over by soldermask. Also indicates copper on both layers. Rubber-band-like lines that show which pads need to be connected. These define where soldermask should not be applied. These are usually drill holes for stand-offs or for special part requirements. Just for reference.http://godilanka.com/userfiles/crate-g160xl-manual.xml
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This might show the outline of a part, or other useful information. This is an interface trick that trips a lot of people up. Since the board view is entirely two-dimensional, and different layers are bound to overlap, sometimes you have to do some finagling to select an object when there are others on top of it. In cases like that, EAGLE will pick one of the two overlapping objects, and ask if that's the one you want. If it is, you have to left-click again to confirm. If you were trying to grab one of the other overlapping objects, right-click to cycle to the next part. EAGLE's status box, in the very bottom-left of the window, provides some helpful information when you're trying to select a part. We left-click once directly where they overlap, and EAGLE asks us if we meant to select VCC. We right-click to cycle, and it asks us instead if we'd like to select Reset. Right-clicking again cycles back to VCC, and a final left-click selects that as the net we want to move. The gold lines, called airwires, connect between pins and reflect the net connections you made on the schematic. There should also be a faint, light-gray outline of a board dimension to the right of all of the parts. PCB costs are usually related to the board size, so a smaller board is a cheaper board. The grid should be visible in the board editor.While you're moving parts, you can rotate them by either right-clicking or changing the angle in the drop-down box near the top. As you're moving, rotating, and placing parts, there are some factors you should take into consideration: The green via holes need a good amount of clearance between them too. Remember those green rings are exposed copper on both sides of the board, if copper overlaps, streams will cross and short circuits will happen. Limiting criss-crossing airwires as much as you can will make routing much easier in the long run. While you're relocating parts, hit the RATSNEST button -- -- to get the airwires to recalculate.http://www.exportcave.com/images/editor/crate-g10xl-manual(1).xml For example, you'll probably want the insertion point of the barrel jack connector to be facing the edge of the board. And make sure that decoupling capacitor is nice and close to the IC. We've minimized airwire intersections by cleverly placing the LEDs and their current-limiting resistors. Some parts are placed where they just have to go (the barrel jack, and decoupling capacitor). And the layout is relatively tight. Now we just need to fix our dimension outline. You can either move the dimensions lines that are already there, or just start from scratch. Use the DELETE tool -- -- to erase all four of the dimension lines. Before you draw anything though, go up to the options bar and set the layer to 20 Dimension.Don't intersect the dimension layer with any holes, or they'll be cut off. Make sure you end where you started. With the parts laid out, and the dimension adjusted, we're ready to start routing some copper! It's like solving a puzzle. Our job will be turning each of those gold airwires into top or bottom copper traces. At the same time, you also have to make sure not to overlap two different signals. Wider traces can allow for more current to safely pass through. If you need to supply 1A through a trace, it'd need to be much wider (to find out how much, exactly, use a trace width calculator ). You finish the trace by left-clicking again on top of the other pin the airwire connects to.Remember that all of these copper traces are basically bare wire. If two signals overlap, they'll short out, and neither will do what it's supposed to. It's perfectly acceptable for a trace on the top side to intersect with one on the bottom. That's why there are two layers! We use them mid-route to move a trace from one side of the board to the other. Then you can either change the layer manually in the options bar up top, or click your middle mouse button to swap sides. And continue routing to your destination. EAGLE will automatically add a via for you.http://www.familyreunionapp.com/family/events/bose-wave-music-system-manual-pdf As a good rule-of-thumb, if you don't have enough space between two traces to fit another (not saying you should), they're too close together. If you need to go back and re-work a route, use the RIPUP tool -- -- to remove traces. This tool turns routed traces back into airwires. Go have the time of your life solving the routing puzzle. You may want to start on the closest, easiest traces first. Or, you might want to route the important signals -- like power and ground -- first. Here's an example of a fully-routed board: Make your board smaller. Or try to avoid using any vias. We'll cover those on the next page. Open up the autorouter, don't worry about these other tabs for now, just click OK. After running the autorouter, check the bottom-left status box to see how it did. If your autorouter couldn't finish the job, try turning Routing Grid down from 50mil 10mil. If you want to dig deeper into the subject, consider checking out EAGLE's manual where an entire chapter is devoted to it. To do this, hit the RATSNEST icon -- -- and then immediately check the bottom left status box.If you've looked all over, and can't find the suspect airwire, try turning off every layer except 19 Unrouted. For this step, we recommend you use the SparkFun design rules, which you can download here. To load up the DRC, click the DRC icon -- -- which opens up this dialog: These rules define things like minimum clearance distances, or trace widths, or drill hole sizes.all sorts of fun stuff. Instead of setting each of those manually, you can load up a set of design rules using a DRU file. To do this, hit Load.Then hit the Check button. The error window lists all of the open errors, and it also highlights where the error is. Click on any of the errors listed, and EAGLE will point to the offender. You'll probably have to nudge the trace around using the MOVE tool. This will create a short if it's not fixed. You might have to RIPUP one trace, and try routing it on the other side of the board.http://www.dimalcco.com/images/canon-repair-manual.pdf Or find a new way for it to reach its destination. If this isn't fixed that part of the board will just be cut off. They look professional and they actually have a good reason for existing. Not to mention they make routing much easier. Usually, when you're adding a copper pour it's for the ground signal. So let's add some ground pours to the design. Then (as usual), you'll need to adjust some settings in the options bar. Select the top copper (1) layer.In fact, just draw right on top of the dimension lines. Start drawing at the origin, trace all the way around, and finish back at the same spot. A dotted red box should appear around the dimension of the board. This works just like naming nets on a schematic.You'll probably hate me for telling you this now, but adding ground pours to your design at the very beginning (after placing parts, before routing) makes manual routing much easier. If you see a black gap separating a pad and the pour, there is no connection.Don't worry, the polygon is still there, just hit ratsnest to bring it back. You want it to look good, right. Some silkscreen -- like part outlines -- is automatically placed on the board because it's a piece of the part. We can manually add other information, like labels, logos, and names. A variety of draw tools -- wire ( ), text ( ), circle ( ), arc ( ), rectangle ( ), and polygon ( ) -- can be used to draw on the silkscreen layer ( tPlace for top, bPlace for bottom). You could add labels for the headers, or values for the resistors, or even create a nifty logo. EAGLE is far from the only PCB CAD software out there, and its design files are nothing like those of Orcad or Altium. Fab houses can't possibly support every piece of software out there, so we send them the gerber files instead. One gerber might describe the silkscreen, while another defines where the top copper is. In all, we'll generate seven gerber files to send to the fab house. Now all you have to do is click Process Job. If you haven't saved recently, it'll prompt you to. Once it's run its course, have a look in your project directory, which should have loads of new files in it. In addition to the board (BRD) and schematic (SCH) files, there should now be a.dri,.GBL,.GBO,.GBS,.GML,.gpi,.GTO,.GTP,.GTS, and a.TXT. Meet the Gerbers! OSH Park is pretty great for low-volume, high-quality PCBs (plus, they're purple!). Advanced Circuits is awesomely fast. Gold Phoenix is cheap. We could go on and on, but Ladyada has a great list over on her website. Most will ask you to send them a zipped folder of select files. Which gerber files? Check with your fab house again (e.g. Advanced Circuits and OSH Park's guidelines), but usually you want to send them GTL, GBL, GTS, GBS, GTO, GBO and the TXT files. The GTP file isn't necessary for the PCB fabrication, but (if your design had SMD parts) it can be used to create a stencil. Play the waiting game. And get ready to assemble your very own PCB! That also includes the gerber files, and all EAGLE scripts used in this tutorial. If you need a break from reading, check out this According to Pete video, where the Dokter goes over some of the more general concepts of PCB layout: In this one, we focus on laying out a more complex, surface-mount (SMD) design. This one details a unique process for making a custom 1:1 footprint. First you design your schematic, then you lay out a PCB based on that schematic. EAGLE's board and schematic editors work hand-in-hand. A well-designed schematic is critical to the overall PCB design process. It will help you catch errors before the board is fabricated, and it'll help you debug a board when something doesn't work. In part 2, Using EAGLE: Board Layout, we'll use the schematic designed in this tutorial as the basis for our example board layout. Our How to Install and Setup EAGLE tutorial goes over this process step-by-step, and it also covers the basics of what EAGLE is and what makes it great. It also covers how to download and install the SparkFun EAGLE libraries we'll be using in this tutorial. Definitely read through that tutorial before you continue on. To begin the design process, we need to lay out a schematic. Welcome to the schematic editor! First you have to add all of the parts to the schematic sheet, then those parts need to be wired together. You can intermix the steps -- add a few parts, wire a few parts, then add some more -- but since we already have a reference design we'll just add everything in one swoop. The ADD tool opens up a library navigator, where you can expand specific libraries and look at the parts it holds. With a part selected on the left side, the view on the right half should update to show both the schematic symbol of the part and its package. The search is very literal, so don't misspell stuff. You'll probably want to get accustomed to always adding an asterisk before and after your search term. The frame we want should be in the SparkFun-Aesthetics library, and it's named FRAME-LETTER. Find that by either searching or navigating and add it to your schematic. To get out of the add-mode either hit escape (ESC) twice or just select a different tool. Name your schematic something descriptive.Use the add tool for these parts: Arranged like this: Then left click again when it's where it needs to be. Here are the parts we'll add: Place your microcontroller in the center of the frame, then add the other parts around it like so: One 8-pin connector to break out the analog pins, a 6-pin serial programming header, and a 2x3-pin ICSP programming header. Here are the three parts to add for this step: There's one major caveat here before we start: even though we're wiring parts on the schematic, we not going to use the WIRE tool -- -- to connect them together. Instead, we'll use the NET tool -- (left toolbar, or under the Draw menu). The WIRE tool would be better-named as a line-drawing tool, NET does a better job of connecting components. Now a green line should be following your mouse cursor around. To terminate the net, left-click on either another pin or a net. Usually they're recognizable by a thin, horizontal, red line off to the side of a part. Sometimes (not always) they're labeled with a pin number. Make sure you click on the very end of the pin when you start or finish a net route. This signifies that all three intersecting nets are connected. If two nets cross, but there's not a junction, those nets are not connected. For example, we need to connect the TXO pin on JP2 to the ATmega's RXD pin, all the way on the other side. You could do it, it would work, but it'd be really ugly.Begin by starting a net at a pin, just as you've been doing. Terminate the net by left-clicking a few grid-lengths over to the right of the pin. Then, instead of routing to another pin, just hit ESC to finish the route. When you're done, it should look like this: With the NAME tool selected, clicking on a net should open a new dialog. Start by naming the net connected to the top, GND pin. Thanks for looking out for us EAGLE, but in this case Yes we do want to connect GND to GND. With the LABEL tool selected, left-click on the net you just named.Get excited, it's about time to lay out a PCB. When your schematic is done, it should look a little something like this: The name is an identifier like R1, R2, LED3, etc. Every component on the schematic should have a unique name. You can use the NAME tool -- on any component to change the name. For example, you can set a resistor's resistance, or a capacitor's capacitance. The importance of a part's value depends on what type of component it is. For parts like resistors, capacitors, inductors, etc.To adjust a part's value parameter, use the VALUE tool --. If you use SHOW on a net, every pin it's connected to should light up. If you're dubious of the fact that two like-named nets are connected, give the SHOW tool a try. SHOW-ing a net connected to GND, for example, should result in a lot of GND nets lighting up. Use MOVE to pick a part up, and the nets connected to it should bend and adjust to remain so. Just make sure you hit ESC to not move the part (or UNDO if you accidentally move it). Double check to make sure you routed to the very end of the pin, and not a bit further: Grouping and performing an action on that group is a two-step process. First, use the group tool -- -- to select the parts you want to modify. You can either hold down the left-mouse button and drag a box around them, or click multiple times to draw a polygon around a group. Once the group is made, every object in that group should glow. The status box in the far bottom-left will have some helpful information pertaining to using the tool on a group: Copy actually performs both a copy and paste when it's used. As soon as you copy a part (or any object on the schematic -- name, text, net, etc.) an exact copy will instantly spawn and follow your mouse awaiting placement. This is useful if you need to add multiples of the same part (like GND nodes or resistors). This'll store the copied group into your operating system's clipboard, and you can use paste to place it somewhere. This tool is especially useful if you need to copy parts of one schematic file into another. In this one, we focus on laying out a more complex, surface-mount (SMD) design. This one details a unique process for making a custom 1:1 footprint. The free version of Eagle is somewhat limited in what it can do, DipTrace slightly more so. KiCad is open-source, and hence is completely free. I use Eagle because its limitations are reasonable for what I need to do, and I believe that it has a better interface than KiCad. Eagle can be downloaded here. If you're just installing Eagle, you probably will want to use the 'Run as Freeware' licensing option when it comes up. Note that for this instructable, I'm assuming that you have Eagle 6.1 or higher installed. The files that I upload are stored in Eagle 6's xml format, and as such can't be opened by earlier versions of eagle. First we'll cover moving around a finished project, then we'll start from scratch and design a board from start to finish. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 1: A Quick Note on How Eagle Works. Eagle's UI is designed with what is called a modal interface. That is, you select one mode, perform it a bunch of times, as opposed to selecting an object and applying an single operation at a time. When used properly, this allows you to work very rapidly, but it can also be a major source of aggravation if you are used to the Windows-y way of doing things. Eagle has four basic views: Library, Schematic, Board, and Control Panel. Control Panel is the main window, it launches everything else and when you close it, all subordinate windows get closed. Library - Allows you to manage and edit parts. Advanced usage of this will not be covered in this tutorial Schematic - This is where you draw the schematic for your project. It defines the parts you have in your project, and which pins on the parts should be connected. Board - This is where you lay out the pieces of your project and physically connect the correct pins as defined in the Schematic. Note that the Schematic's job is only to define the parts and the connections between them. Only in Board layout does it matter where the parts physically go. On Schematics, parts are laid out where they make sense electrically, on Boards, they are laid out where they physically make sense, thus a resistor that is right next to a part in the Schematic may end up as far away from that part as possible in the Board. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 2: The Control Panel The control panel is the main window of Eagle. When you close it, all windows that it opened get closed as well. Simpler and less powerful than ulps. -- CAM Jobs (.cam) export to other formats -- Projects (.sch,.pcb, etc) are where your circuit boards, schematics, and whatever else live So to start things off, right-click on the 'eagle', select 'New Project', and call it ex-Compass. Download the 'Compass.sch' and 'Compass.pcb' files from below, and save them in the Documents\eagle\ex-Compass Hit F5 or go to View-Refresh in the Control Panel to make the files show up there. Double-click on the Compass.sch file and the schematic and pcb file should both load. Attachments Compass.zip Download Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 3: Schematic Window The schematic window is where you create and edit the schematic (obviously). To start out, try moving around. With complex schematics (and non-freeware versions of Eagle), you can create multi-paged schematics and switch between them here. If you are only running the freeware version, you can just close that section and never think of it again. After you look at the schematic for a while, you may realize that this schematic could be laid out better (especially around the voltage regulator, highlighted above). If you click the show button, then click on the VCC net (a net is one of the green lines), you will see that all of the VCC nets get highlighted, including the one connected to that regulator, whose name couldn't be read clearly due to the name of the diode beneath it overlapping with the name of the VCC trace. To get the schematic to look cleaner, we can turn off the display of the values of all of the parts. To do this, click the Display button, and un-check the Values layer (layer 96). One last way to see any idiosyncrasies that might be missed by the naked eye is the Electrical Rules Check (ERC). This takes what Eagle knows about the various parts (which isn't very much), and checks to see if anything unusual is going on. In the case of this board, there are currently 7 warnings and no errors. The warnings are thrown because D6 isn't connected to anything, JP1 and JP2 have no values (since they're just through-hole places where I'll wire up the actual compass), GND overlaps another pin since I was trying to get multiple connections to a single pin on one of the parts, but Eagle didn't like that, and since I renamed the 3.3V to VCC, the supply symbols aren't happy. Most of this should be fixed, but, hey, it lets you see what an ERC with warnings looks like. If you didn't have a.pcb file paired with this file, it will automatically create one and drop all of the parts outside of the PCB area. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 4: Board Window You move around in the board window just like in the schematic window, so I won't go over that again. Likewise, the Show button is virtually identical. The Display button is functionally the same, but will have different layers in this view. Frequently, when looking at a board, you don't need to see all of it at once. This can be tedious when you are swapping rapidly between sides. Let's set up some keyboard commands to make this easier. Now that you've seen the very basics of using Eagle, let's plow right ahead into creating your own board. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 5: A Couple of Definitions Before We Begin Part - Physical component on a PCB. Contained in a Library. Net - An electrical connection (in Schematic view) Trace - Essentially a wire on a PCB (Board View). Used to make the connections defined by Nets Plane - Typically connected to ground (in some cases it is connected otherwise, typically for high-current-carrying situations). With a Plane, you define the border, and the Plane will fill in as much area as possible inside that border, leaving room for any traces you have inside. Wire - In either Schematic or Board view, this doesn't get shared between them. Typically used for cosmetics only in the Schematic view, and for cosmetics or plane modifications in Board view. DO NOT USE THIS TO DRAW ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS!!! Label - Shows the Name of a net Name - Unique identifier for each part. Value - Value of a part. Typically either a part number for more complex parts, or the actual value for simple parts like resistors and capacitors. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 6: Create a New Project and Schematic What we are creating in this tutorial is a circuit that blinks an LED using a 555 timer chip. The 555 timer is a simple chip that has all sorts of uses. We will be running it in astable mode, which produces a square wave on the output pin. We'll want the one from the st-microelectronics library. Do not use the 'wire' command to make connections like this. 'Wires' are simply cosmetic in the Schematic portion of Eagle, so they won't actually do what you want them to do. If you still do attempt to use the Wire command, I will be forced to unleash my horde of flying robotic monkeys to make sure that you don't try that again. Some quick notes on the behavior of the 'net' command - It is started with a single-click. Don't click-and-drag or double-click to start. - It can be started anywhere - After starting, the net will continue being drawn until you single-click on pin or another net, or double-click anywhere. - Single-clicking after starting will anchor the net in the current spot - Right-clicking will change the way that the net will go from point A to point B. I personally recommend only using the 90-degree-angle forms of this for schematic layout Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 9: Label and Name All of the Nets Using the 'Label' command, click on each of the nets to make the nets' names show up on the wires Once all of the names are showing, use the 'Name' command to give the wires meaningful names, as shown in the second picture in this step. Labeling the nets is important for two reasons: A) It allows anyone who looks at your schematic to at least have an educated guess as to what each portion of it does B) When you switch to routing your board, it will be easier for you to tell what each net does and plan accordingly (especially useful when you're dealing with differential traces and whatnot). Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 10: Give the Parts Some Values Using the 'Value' (right next to the 'Name' command), label all of the resistors and the capacitor with the appropriate value R3 is a current-limiting resistor for the LED, and 1k is a conservative estimate there (depends on the specs of the LED). C1, R1, and R2 determine the rate of blinkiness of our LED. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 11: Electrical Rule Check (Idiot Check) Running the ERC will let you see areas where Eagle thinks you messed up. Let's examine the output for this one line by line. Errors (1) - These warrant you taking a careful look at. Anything here could very well cause your circuit to blow up if you don't pay attention to it. Unconnected INPUT pin IC1 CON - In general, unconnected input pins are bad. In this case, the CON pin is a reference voltage that you can manually set, but nothing bad happens if you leave it unconnected (floating). Warnings (2) - These are not as urgent as errors, but still require a cursory glance. That means that you didn't connect that net on both ends. In this case, it's just a nomenclature difference, so it's OK to approve. Part LED1 has no value - If I wasn't as lazy as I am, I'd have given the LED1 part a value, but until then, this warning will exist. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 12: Board Layout So creating the base of the PCB layout from the schematic is easy. When the board file comes up, there will be a box on the screen, with all of the parts to the left of it. Until you move it, this represents the area where you can place your parts in the free version of eagle. Try to move a part outside of this area and Eagle will yell at you and refuse to cooperate. Note that Eagle drops all of the parts that you added into your schematic outside of this placeable area. Note that this step requires a great deal of forethought to save yourself from headaches later on. Each one of those golden lines represents an unrouted trace. Typically, when you lay out a board, you first place the parts that have set locations that they need to go, like connectors. Then, group up all parts that logically make sense together, and move these clusters so that they create the smallest amount of crossed unrouted lines. From that point, expand those clusters, moving all of the parts far enough apart that they don't break any design rules and have a minimum of unrouted traces crossing. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 13: Board Layout 2 - Getting on the Right Side One thing with printed circuit boards is that they have two sides. However, you typically pay per layer that you use, and if you are making this board at home, you might only be able to reliably make one-sided boards. Due to the logistics of soldering through-hole parts, this means that we want to use the bottom of the PCB. Use the Mirror command and click on the surface-mount parts to switch them to the bottom layer. You may need to use the Rotate or Move command to correct the orientation of the parts. Once you have all of the parts laid out, run the Ratsnest command.