dell w4200 hd manual
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dell w4200 hd manualNo power, no POST, no video or no boot. Watch this video to learn how to diagnose the problem.No power, no POST, no video or no boot. Watch this video to learn how to diagnose the problem. If for any reason you lose or forget your access code, you can use the default code. The maximum amount of time is 60 seconds. You can select TV Button Lock to lock the buttons on the bottom panel. When this option is enabled, only the power button functions. Hold the volume increase and the channel increase buttons together for 10 seconds to unlock the buttons. If you are using the TV (NTSC connector) or the Digital TV (ATSC connector) input source, you can preset the viewable channels. Go to the Main Menu, select Setup, select Channel Setup, and then select Channel Search. The default color space is RGB, but if the colors are not displaying correctly, you can change the setting to YUV. Using the plasma conditioning feature may take several hours. Severe cases of image retention are known as burn-in, the plasma conditioning feature does not remove burn-in. Overuse may degrade the TV brightness. Please check your inbox, and if you can’t find it, check your spam folder to make sure it didn't end up there. Please also check your spam folder. I am having issues with the hdmi on this TV and I know a firmware update will fix it. Thank you. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. Try replace inverter board and backlight in that order.Is that the question?With a failure to it. If yes, the now the fault is with its main board. Contact any service technician; or the authorized service center. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts.. In most cases, the main board might have to be replaced.I found out it is the plasma screen, and not worth replacing, so I put up with it until picture is all full of shadows, then will part it out.Live with it or buy a new TV is what I am doing.Check it with fresh batteries.
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If you wish to get more details about how to check a remote control, please visit this site. One among the posts has details about it. If you wish to buy its original remote control, contact the authorized service centre, or authorized dealer to your device brand. They can either give you a genuine remote control to your device, or can direct you, from where can you purchase a suitable one. To select a proper universal remote control, you should know about the number of digits to its set-up codes. There are 3 digit, 4 digit, 5 digit, 2 digit and even single digit codes, to some brand devices. After confirming this, check the sites linked here. Both the sites have set-up code list and set-up procedure to many popular brand remote controls. Brand name of the remote control isn't a matter, but it should have set-up codes in its code list, to the device brand you have. Please note: Every new universal remote control will have set-up code list, and set-up procedure along with its pack. Never accept a remote control, that hasn't both of this. For more details about the set-up codes, visit the site Check this site too. Universal remote controls are available at most of the electronic spare part selling shops.Had this problem on mine and it was indeed a common problem of leaking capacitor which you can see if you look close at tops of the large capacitors, they will have a bulge on top, very obvious, and easy to replace. A red LED will light up on power board, so look for it after unplugging and plugging back in, then hit power, you will hear a click when LED lights, sure indicator of one of the voltages missing.Gopakumar Gopalan Google Better solution as I have learned is to simply buy a sound bar which have come down in price dramatically over the years.http://www.siblom.ru/files/upload/02-kia-sportage-repair-manual.xml I replaced audio output board with used one, and it also went bad a month later, so I added sound bar and in a year and a half, no other problems, so disconnect your external speakers which were not great to begin with and save time and money with soundbar. STOP-PAIN-FAST.comDactivate it. Refer its user manual for details.Answer questions, earn points and help others. Since the Dell wasn't smoking or on fire and looked like it was still in very good condition, throwing it away seemed like a waste. 3.Take it apart While my buddy contemplated what he wanted to do (see options 1 and 2 above), I resolved to just take the dang thing apart to see what I could see. I'm fairly electronics savvy and I love taking things apart, so this was an opportunity not to be missed. Disclaimer: The information contained herein is only a journal of my experiences. It is not meant as a tutorial for someone else to fix their own TV. If you use it as such, you do so at your own risk. Don't blame me if you destroy your TV or get hurt in the process. With that said, please continue reading. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 1: Symptoms 1. Blank screen 2. TV still powers up, blue led lights up, and relays click at turn on 3. Sound still works 4. Picture may come back for hours at a time but not reliably 5. Picture may appear for a split second when turning off. How it happened It all started one day when I went to turn on the TV and, while the power LED lit up and the power relays clicked as usual, the screen was blank. I thought it was on the wrong input so I used the controller to switch inputs but the on-screen menu would not show up either. The sound, however, was working so it was definitely on the right input already. I left the TV on for a while and after a couple minutes, the picture magically appeared. Great, it just needed to warm up I thought. After being left on for a couple of hours however, the screen went dark again. The TV was basically unusable because turning on the TV would usually result in just a dark, blank screen. Since the sound continued to work, I suspected something to do with the power supplied to the plasma screen proper. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 2: Teardown To access the power supply, one must remove the sheet metal backing to the television. This is quite easy and only requires a T20 torx screwdriver and a common philips screwdriver. There are many torx screws around the periphery, four large philips mounting screws, and a couple smaller philips screws. Once all screws are removed, the sheetmetal backing can be pried off the TV (in fact, it may fall right off after the last screw is undone so watch out!) It helps to have a friend at this point because handling the large back piece can be a bit unwieldy with one person. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 3: Testing the Power Supply Static Electricity Warning Some components on the power supply are CMOS integrated circuits and are therefore sensitive to static electricity. Before touching the circuit board, I make sure the TV is unplugged. Then, I touch a piece of metal on the back of the TV that is grounded, i.e. part of the metal frame or one of the mounting screws or mounting posts of the power supply board. This will dissipate any stored static electricity by the body and discharge it to ground. CAREFUL!!! This should only be done with the TV turned off and NOT plugged in. Otherwise, one might touch something with HIGH VOLTAGE and receive an electrical shock. In particular, stay away from the large heat sinks with the yellow stickers on them indicating high voltage. Overview The power supply is the large circuit board in the middle of the TV. It has many transformers, large capacitors, and a couple IC's. There are eight connectors attaching the power supply to the other circuit boards on the TV.http://www.darkhollowfarm.com/images/02-kia-sportage-repair-manual.pdf The supply provides about ten different voltages; 190V, -180V, 60V, etc for the plasma screen as well as 3.3V, 5V, and 12V for the logic and digital electronics. The power supply circuit board contains a wealth of information including its part number and a table of the different voltages it produces along their signal names(Va, Vscan, Vstb, etc). Test points for all these voltages exist on the left side of the board(looking at the power supply as it is mounted to the back of the television). How to test I used a multimeter to probe the voltages at the testpoints with the TV turned on. BE CAREFUL!!!! This is of course highly dangerous as HIGH VOLTAGES occur on the power supply and the TV was not meant to be run with the back off. Touching certain points on the power supply while it is powered can KILL YOU!!!! To be safe, don't touch ANYTHING inside the TV whilst it is plugged in. In fact, if you do not know what you are doing, just stop here. No point killing yourself over a stupid TV. If you dare. The RTN node (seen on the silkscreen at the top left connector(and others) ) is basically the common grounding point and is connected to Earth ground, the shiny metal backing of the plasma screen, and all the metal mounting pegs that the power supply is mounted to. The black or negative lead of your multimeter should be attached to this point. I just stuck the black probe into one of the mounting studs and let it hang there (out of the way) so I could probe using the other(red) lead of the multimeter with one hand. Start off with the TV unplugged and turned off. Attach the negative or black lead of the multimeter to any mounting stud near the power supply board. Now plug in the TV and make sure nothing explodes. Now turn on the TV with the remote control and again make sure nothing explodes. Is the screen blank. If so, good. You'll be able to probe the test points on the power supply to determine which voltage is not being produced. In my case, it was Va which is supposed to be 60V. Make sure to make a good contact between the testpoint and the multimeter probe. If the contact is poor, the voltage readout may look as though it is fluctuating between the spec'd voltage and some lower voltage. For example, if the spec'd voltage is 180v, not pressing hard enough to connect the probe and the testpoint may result in a readout that wanders between 180v and 50v. If all the voltages are being supplied and withing spec (as shown on the power supply's silkscreened voltage table shown in the fourth picture below), your power supply is most likely functioning correctly. Your problem may lie in a different area. Numerous people have mentioned a problem with their Y-Buffer, the circuit boards flanking the left and right sides of the plasma screen. Specifically, whitby905 (see the comments section) has found that the lower left Y-Buffer board was contacting the metal plasma screen backing and had shorted out. If your power supply checks out, look and smell for any indication that any of the Y-Buffers have shorted to the case. You may have to remove them and look on the back for shorted solder points. I don't have any pictures of this situation besides the one from whitby905 in the comments section. The proof that the current mode pwm control chip(KA3883) was the source of the problem came from heating just that part with a hot air pencil and watching the Va voltage go up to 60V then cooling the control chip(KA3883) with a can of compressed air and watching Va go back to zero. The part is defective and for whatever reason responds to thermal shock. This could have indicated a cold solder joint but, after checking, the solder joints looked fine. Diagnosis: defective KA3883. Additional Info: The power supply board is easily detached by removing about ten philips screws and disconnecting the eight connectors.https://AUSTRALIANDIAMONDNETWORK.COM/ckfinder/userfiles/files/76cs-manual.pdf If you want to test the board on the bench, away from the rest of the TV), you must use an isolation transformer. Plug in one side of the isolation transformer to the wall then plug in the board to a suicide cord connected to the other side of the transformer. This is so you don't die. You also need to know how to turn on the board without the remote control, right. This is done by simply connecting pin 'PS-ON' (found on connector CN8007) to ground(ie the RTN pin). I used a small jumper to short across from PS-ON to RTN. You can just leave the jumper there and use a power strip to turn the whole thing on and off. I traced out much of the relevent circuitry to make sure I knew what I was probing and so I could debug the Va circuit. The excellent layout and silkscreen notation on the Samsung board was very helpful. The Va circuit is mostly contained within the 500's numbered parts, ie U501, C501, R501, etc. If you are going to probe any of these parts with the board powered you MUST USE AN ISOLATION TRANSFORMER so you don't electrocute yourself or destroy the board, especially if you are using an oscilloscope or something that is not battery powered. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 5: Replacing the Controller Chip The first thing you need to do is get rid of the defective part, U501. One method is to remove the chip by getting rid of the solder holding it in place. Either use a solder sucker desoldering station (if you have access to one) or solder wick to remove the solder then pull the whole chip out. Careful with the solder wick. If you heat up a pad too much, you WILL lift a trace, effectively destroying the board. It's very hard so get it right with the solder wick. I used the desoldering station to clear the lead holes. Then, I attached the SIP sockets to the new part, placed it into position, tacked the part by soldering pins 1 and 8 to hold it into place, and then soldered the rest of the pins.https://az4group.com.br/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1626680f8ed04b---04-buick-rendezvous-owners-manual.pdf The reason for using the SIP sockets and not a normal 8 pin socket is because the width of the holes is unusual. DIP parts are normally 300mils wide however the width used on this board for the DIP parts is about 340mils (when I say width I mean from say the center of the hole of pin 1 to the center of the hole of pin 8.) A normal 8 pin DIP socket will not fit, hence using two strips of SIPs. Try digikey ED7064. This way, there is no desoldering and you'll have a socket there to make it easier if you have to replace the part again. You must be very careful when using a small side cutter to snip the leads from the chip (this is the simplest way to do it however). The action of the cutter will push the lead and the chip to the side, putting lots of stress on the hole that the lead is soldered into. Again, damage of the circuit board could result. This required a steady hand, but it avoided putting any stress on the board. Watch out because when you touch the soldering iron to the lead you will also melt the solder in the lead hole and the lead may move, fall through, or cock to one side. You might try first soldering a solid wire to all four leads on one side to keep them in position as you solder the SIP sockets. Make sure you install the new part with the right orientation. Otherwise you'll probably blow a fuse on the board(best case) and may take out some other parts as well. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 6: Conclusion Now install the board back onto the TV, and connect only the smaller connectors to test the board. Plug in the power to the TV and turn it on with the remote. Probe the Va testpoint with a multimeter to see if it is between 55 and 75 volts. If so, the repair worked. Turn off the TV, unplug it, and install the other connectors to the power supply board. Install the backing onto the TV and you're done. Congratulations! Your roommates now think you're a genius. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Share it with us! I Made It!http://mfplus.ba/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/162668c5dc65c8---04-h2-owners-manual.pdf Recommendations DIY Laser Engraver With RGB Then stays behind and changes scene again and developes another imprint of that scene. It builds up until most of the screen is black. I can change the cable channel to the channel menu page, then back to what I was watching and it's all clean again. I have to do this every couple of minutes.Yesterday, it died again (same symptoms). I was eyeing a nice new 4K panel, but figured i give another try at fixing it. This time I found the D5V supply was low. The info in this thread helped me again, pointing me towards capacitors, and sure enough mine looked to be bulging a bit. A quick run to Radio Shack and i had some replacements. They didnt have 2200uF 10v, so i had to use the much larger 2200uF 35v. The Dell is up and running again.I bought my Dell W5001C brand new from the Dell site and when it was delivered, I was like a kid again. Then 1 year later, almost to the day, and of course the warranty had expired, it went out. All the symptoms explained above. No screen but sound, blue power LED was lit. I would turn it on, it would give the audible click and then almost immediately another click. I called Dell and of course they wanted the thing shipped to them via insured courier to their buildings in the Bay Area of California. All at my expense, mind you. I quickly packed the thing back into its box and stored it away. The draw back was that I would have to disassemble all of the boards from the TV and send them to this guy in San Jose, California. He sent the boards back to me about 4 days later and I reassembled the TV.For almost 1 year EXACTLY to the day. Now the same problem. When I got the boards back, I looked real close to what might have been replaced. The only thing I could see was that he had replaced 3 or 4 capacitors on the main PCB. I am going to attempt this on my own this time, but, I am really hoping that this is not a dead thread just in case I need some backup. Are you game, mr12volt??https://australia4d.com/contents//files/76cs-manual.pdf Just keep in mind that these tv's can fail in a number of different ways. Make sure the first thing you do is measure the voltage on the Va test point on the power supply board. The solution I detail will only work if the Va voltage is zero. I get emailed when someone posts a comment so if you have any further questions I will see them. By the way my buddy's TV is still going strong. 0 headylinton mr12volt My son has decided to try replacing the mini-banana plug connections and we can't seem to find them small enough. We REALLY hate to let go of this tv just because the speakers aren't working. You'd think we could just replace with other speakers but my son says no, it can't be done. Any thoughts? 0 No1sBoy musicgirl77 I don't know why he is saying it can't be done.A year later and still haven''t gotten to my Dell. But this is the weekend. I've researched and researched and it turns out that the 5v power problem seems to be a universal one. The W4201 and W5001 plasma TV's from Dell from 2005-(2007 I believe) were manufactured by Samsung and packaged as Dell. All have the same failing. If not late tonite than first thing tomorrow for sure. 0 mongiatbell No1sBoy I happened to finally find a repair manual for it. It was listed as Phillips system.I added it to my Dropbox account so anyone can download the PDF file. I can't thank you enough for finding the manual. What a great thing to have. With no parts list I purchased a replacement power board from a tested vendor on E-Bay for 40 bucks. It shows up in a few days. When it does I will send pics and info on the registration and setup. The crucial part as with any set is having the right video output for high def (most computers do now) and having the right image files for true resolution. The resolution files are freeware now but a good primer on use and free files is at I am not associated with them and I am not selling anything. I hope this helps. 0 TJNoffy I had two caps on the PS board go bad (bulging) in the 5v circuit and replaced them. TV has worked great since. Today the Mrs. Was watching the TV, muted it to look down at her computer, heard a click (relay?) and looked up to see a blank screen. I've cycled power a few times, unplugged and plugged it back in. Nothing. Blue LED in the power button lights up when it's turned on at the power button, but no splash screen and no audio nor video. So I've taken the set down to open it up for a visual inspection and to measure some voltages. I'll report back what I find, but if it's nothing obvious or something I can't or don't want to pay to fix, I may be off to Best Buy for a new TV. Not sure that was the case before. All voltages seem OK, although the 5v line is at 5.2v. Not sure if that's enough of a difference to matter. (Thoughts anyone???) There is also a slightly bulged capacitor (C619) that looks to be part of the 5v line. It's as bulged as the two I replaced two years ago to fix the TV, so it makes me suspicious. So, I guess I need to decide if it's worth pulling the PS and that capacitor and replacing it. No good electronics stores in the immediate area. A good hour drive. 0 TJNoffy TJNoffy It shut itself off a couple of times. Anyway, we decided that if this TV is going to fail more and more, we'd replace it. Getting used to the difference between LCD and plasma.Will pull that once bulged capacitor from the PS and replace it and go from there, but not going to spend too much time or effort on it. If anyone has any thoughts on whether the 5v test point reading 5.2v could cause issues, I'd love to hear from you. Thanks! 0 No1sBoy TJNoffy Sounds exactly like the problem I am having. Power looks fine on the board. Have you checked out the X and Y buffer boards? 0 mongiatbell No1sBoy I have linked all of the pro service manuals I was able to dig up on this TV in this thread already, but, here they are again. Hope these might help. 0 mongiatbell No1sBoy. It only takes 30 seconds to sign up, so join the discussion today! For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. In addition, the Dell has a built in ATSC HD tuner along with its NTSC tuner (not available on nearly any other low-end model)-- and it also has HDMI which few other PDPs are offering at this time (especially not at a budget price point). How big is the box it ships in. Approximately 46 inches wide x 36 inches high and just under 18 inches deep. It weighs just shy of 100 pounds, so make sure to confirm the delivery company is sending two people to move it. How about the inputs and outputs. Of note, the digital audio OUTPUT only passes digital audio from the ATSC tuner. It seems to pass audio from the tuner no matter what display input is selected. Does it have picture-in-picture modes. Dell lists: Picture-In-Picture (PIP), Picture-Outside-Picture (POP), Picture-By-Picture (PBP) - PC Graphic on Video, Video on PC Graphic, Video on Video. PIP is standard pic-in-pic. The PBP (pic-by-pic) is a split screen. The POP (pic-outside-pic) allows you to select from three different POP options: (POP) One large picture to the left and a smaller, centered window to the right.With Pop 12, only the NTSC TV tuner is used as a source. It then spends about 2 seconds per channel and freezes the image and then moves on to the next channel, 2 seconds, freezes etc., until 12 chanels are arrayed around the outside of the screen with the main source in the middle running continuously. Then it moves around the rectangle, 2 seconds per image. It is not 12 live feeds. Does the tuner do QAM. Qam is quadrature amplitude modulation-- the modulation scheme that many cable carriers are using for HD over cable. Unfortunately the Dell tuner doesnt do QAM, just ATSC. A QAM tuner allows you to plug the cable directly into the TV, and use the TV's tuner to change channels. The Dell does not feature an onboard QAM tuner, so you can only use the Dell's tuners to receiver over-the-air NTSC and ATSC signals. More info on these systems can be found here. Is the unit cable card compatible. A cable card is a tuner interface available for some plasma sets allowing you to use the TV''s internal tuner instead of a set-top-box, even to received premium and digital channels. The Dell is not compatible with a cable card, a set-top-box tuner would be necessary. What is the color resolution. Unconfirmed. A dell phone rep claimed it is 16.7 million colors, but the same rep also said the panel is 852x480 (which is not correct). Who makes the glass. It was originally thought to be an LG panel based upon articles on the net ( ). The manual instructs universal remote users to try PHILIPS codes for controlling the Dell, so at least the electronics are likely from Philips. At various times, Dell Support claimed the panel was manufactured by Panasonic, Sony, Planar, Philips, and Samsung. It hasn't been confirmed to coincide with any commercial model currently sold by Samsung, and it doesn't seem to share any specifications with 42 inch 1024x768 Samsung models (HP-P4271 or HP-P4261). An article from March 2004, it was revealed that Michael Dell visited Korean Samsung SDI factory where they make Plasma glass. A more recent article stated Samsung was increasing its plasma glass output to produce 130,000 units monthly-- which could be, theoretically, to meet Dell demands. The image processing circuits are provided by Pixelworks. The chip is a PW3200B-10, the chip is not listed on their site but might be a BETA (thus the B) processor for their newest 3300. It seems to do 3:2 pull-down (confirmed from testing in a review on Cnet). More details likely to follow. In addition the circuit board features a NEC VR5432 167MHZ 64bit processor, and a Coretronic tuner (Coretronic even uses a picture of the Dell W4200HD on their site ). It seems a company called Interlink is responsible for the interface and remote control. As mentioned above, the owners manual suggests using PHILIPS codes with universal remotes to control the dell. Not so much an error, but something that has been omitted that should have been included: Many widescreen sets offer a zoom mode for non-anamorphic letterbox video signals: this zoom takes a 4:3 signal which has letterboxing bars top and bottom as part of the video signal and creates an equal zoom in both dimensions. This type of zoom simply crops away unused space on the top and sides: resulting in an uncropped picture and proper aspect ratio, filling the screen on a 16:9 set for non-anamorphic letterboxed material. The Dell set DOES NOT feature this type of zoom. It basically takes an image that is already filling the set left to right and top to bottom (which could be a properly displayed anamorphic image or a stretched 4:3 image), and zooms it in both dimensions: cropping the sides and the top.What other display modes does the set have. It's important to be familir with aspect ratios and display functions of TVs. If you are not up to speed with this, please read this. This would be used to zoom 2.35:1 (sometimes called 22:9) anamorphic images to crop the bars at the top and bottom, while losing image on the sides. Of note, the zoom mode operates slightly differently when applied to signals coming from the internal ATSC tuner. When selecting ZOOM on ATSC material, it actually stretches the content left to right, clipping off the material only on the sides. This would allow you to stretch 4:3 material broadcast on HD channels with bars on the sides (which are part of the signal) to remove the side bars and fill the screen without cropping the top and bottom. Those of you receiving network HD feeds may have noticed the commercials are often 4:3 pictures, with bars on the left and right; using the zoom mode while using Dell's internal ATSC tuner would expand these images to full screen. This mode does little to no stretching in the middle of the picture, and stretches more toward the edges. While the manual says it is the best selection for HDTV and DVD, it is actually only really appropriate for 4:3 material and would NOT be appropriate for anamorphic DVD or widescreen HD feeds. The difference between this mode and STANDARD mode is currently unknown. Does it allow different video settings for different inputs? Yes. And it has presets as well as user defined settings. Unit has following video presets for each input: Movie, Sports, MultiMedia, and Weak Signal. Of note, the set also has some audio presets and some basic Bass and Treble controls. Does the set allow video adjustments when connecting via the VGA or DVI inputs? Unknown. I believe the VGA does not allow adjustment (other then RGB gains), but this is not confirmed. The H and V adjustments (to move the picture) are disabled when using DVI. Is there a way to access the service menu. Not yet, although there have been several attempts to use known key combinations for Philips and Samsung TV service modes, but so far none has worked. So far it only has a power toggle, not a discrete off. The boys over at remote central have been fooling around and have discovered a discrete power ON function (if you send this signal with the set is OFF, it will turn on. If it is already ON it will do nothing). It is unknown if any Philips models have discrete codes we could try. Does the TV have a wall mount. They DON'T screw all the way in so the protrusion is likely intentional. The theory is that they are used in the actual fabrication process. Many users have reported removing them before mounting the set with no ill effects. Does this panel work at higher elevation.