dana 44 manual locking hub conversion
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dana 44 manual locking hub conversionThis hub kit also includes low-profile Yukon Hardcore premium locking hubs, giving you more driving selectability. This kit includes new wheel hubs, spindles, high strength Yukon 4340 Chrome-Moly outer axles, Yukon Hardcore premium locking hubs, Timken bearings, high quality seals and all hardware for installation. Wheel hub diameter on this kit is larger than stock.No Reviews Yet! You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. As a result, we are currently unable to refund shipping costs in the event your order delivery is delayed. Learn More Learn More. To add a new vehicle, select the year, make, and model at left. Our payment security system encrypts your information during transmission. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Please try again.Please try again.Please try again later.Please try your search again later.Click here to make a request to customer service.Each axle is engineered for a specific differential installations. Yukon Axles can be found off-road, on the street and at the track.These manual locking hubs feature an all steel construction, low-profile bezels, and default-to-lock design. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. Amazonshopper0702 5.0 out of 5 stars Kit comes in two boxes. Top notch parts and bearings. Everything was packaged or blister packed in a secure and organized way. Good color instruction booklets with photos. All parts needed were included and fit as they should. Some things to note - have the correct tools before you start this project. He does an EXCELLENT step-by-step installation of this kit and you can take notes on all the tools needed.http://gestionarival.com/userfiles/evenflo-featherlite-400-stroller-manual.xml
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I would watch those first BEFORE ordering the kit. Overall the install went smooth. Pressing out the universal joints take an incredible amount of pressure, so be very careful and be sure to clean the paint up around the C clip areas on the bearing caps (and apply some PB Blaster or WD40 to help). I reused my u-joints as they only had less than 25k miles on them and were in great shape. One of my truck's unit bearing hubs required a lot of time and force with a puller to remove but the other side fell right off in my hand. I also removed my center diff during this process while the axle was apart to install the Power Wagon front e-locker. This required me to also pull the passenger side inner axle shaft seal and inner (two-piece) axle - but you DON'T need to touch any of that if just installing the Yukon hub kit. I have now been running the hubs for about 9 months. I have 4-wheeled and towed with them and have not had any issues. Actually only issue you will have is REMEMBERING you have them and will put the truck into 4WD and be very disappointed as to why the truck isn't performing like it should. Did that twice in the first month after installation. Got a good chuckle at myself. The dials will be hard to turn when initially packed up with grease (pack them up good and that will help keep water and debris from seeping in). But they will turn and get easier as the grease gets distributed inside the hub. I had to adjust the spindle nut on each side a couple times after installation to get it just right - not too snug and not too loose. (but better to error on the side to a bit looser vs too snug) Be sure to check them after a few miles and then after 50-100 miles. Also, the disc brakes will transfer heat down to the hubs after driving the truck and parking it. Don't mistake that heat for the bearings being too tight. If you check them right after hopping out of the truck they should be slightly warm or even cool to the touch.http://www.hurtglass.pl/upload/evenflo-expressions-high-chair-instruction-manual.xml After those initial adjustments I haven't had to think about them other than to engage them when needed. Can't really say I have gained any noticeable MPG's like people claim but is sure can't be hurting the MPGs when driving with them unlocked. NOTHING is turning in past the wheel. The hubs DO STICK out a fair distance from the wheel and those center caps which would be the only complaint I have. If you are running wheel spacers or a wider aftermarket wheel with more offset this will not be an issue. If stock you WILL need to be careful when wheeling you don't hit them on something. Overall very happy with them (and the new front e-locker). Yukon makes a solid kit at a more reasonable price vs the competition in my opinion. Hope this review helps.The only reason for a 4 star is. The only reason for a 4 star is the instructions were somewhat vague in both the information and the pictures. Had to call Yukon Tech to verify some information, which they were very helpful with. So far the kit seems to be working fine, though. I might add, though, do not use Amazon's vehicle fir information for this.I watched a few YouTube videos that walked through installation. Not terribly difficult but important to be detail oriented. The kit is working great. I also put in a new u joints and ball joints. I have picked up at least 1 mpg but maybe more. The downside: amazon promised delivery by Friday. It didn’t come Friday. Since it requires a signature I waited all day. It didn’t come. It came Monday. When it came Monday, they included only one of the two boxes.When the replacement arrived they actually sent out TWO replacements. Fortunately they sent a second set because there was some damage to one of the kits and I actually used the second kit to finish up the job. Long story short, the boxes are heavy, huge, and come in a set. Amazon seemed confused about how to ship them out.It was spendy but I was happy with the improved fuel economy and the installation went pretty well. Unfortunately, after 5 years of mild use, some of the wheel studs have stripped out the serration on one hub and some studs are stretching from fatigue. I always torque my wheels to the factory spec. No mention of the so called lifetime warranty. This is not great customer service considering I still have to do all the work!Word of caution.don't forget to install the u-joint shims before the joints are pressed in (easy step to miss). U-joints are NOT included which is a bit of a disappointment so plan accordingly. A hydraulic press makes installing the wheel studs, bearings, and u-joints much easier. It is nice to be able to use 4-low for backing trailers without the binding and jerking (leave the front hubs unlocked).Gas milage went up approx. 2 mpg, front drive train wear went to nothing. All parts are hardened steel except the selector knob. Everything fit as it was supposed to. For me it is a win. I had aftermarket wheels on my Jeep and had no problem with them clearing the hub. Stock wheels will not work. This kit was for non antiskid brakes which I don’t have.Have yet to test it for longativity but have a good feeling it will last. High quality kit! Only thing I would recommend is to get dust seal for superduty where the shaft slides in the front axle. Save all the dirt from going in there! 2004 dodge 2500!Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Do i need to replace everything from the knuckle out using GM or Ford D44 parts, or can i just replace the spindle out, keeping the dodge knuckle, but replacing everything else. Also, if GM or Ford parts are used, do i have to use there calipers, or can i keep the dodge calipers. Thanks for the info in advance MatthewH Knuckle, spindle, hub, rotor, caliper, caliper bracket, stub shaft, etc. I would avoid Ford stuff as they use weaker knuckles and 5 bolt spindles. GM stuff is usable and common or you could keep it Dodge and just use common part time 8 lug Dodge parts from '80-'93. If you swap to another brand, you are going to have to use that brand's calipers and caliper bracket due to the difference in the knuckle and rotor spacing. Can those hubs be easily converted to lock outs? The splined drive ring will pop out. If the grease is old and dry you might have to spray it to get it to pop out. Then just install the manual locking hubs. Those splined rings are handy, keep one (or both) in the glove box or tool kit. If you ever blow a hub, just install the splined drive ring. Jim Looks like I'll be junkyarding this holiday weekend. Thanks for the info Ignore the wheel bolt pattern, but other than that, its a Dana 44 with the hub deletes. I would have grabbed more pics but it was raining. Jim The manual hub fit exactly as NHdiesel explained it. Pop off the cap, take out the splined puck and pick up a set of Warn Premiums (Warn part number 20990) and you are set. Keep in mind if you haven't already done a part time conversion to the NP203 transfer case that you will have to put it in the Hi-Loc position in order to drive. This will eventually wear out the differential lock pins so you should plan on either converting it to part time 4WD with one of the many kits available or swap your 727 and transfer case to a part time unit from a '80-'93 model truck. But, because of the design of the axle hubs used in the M880 series trucks, you would still have the front axle turning. The locking hubs swap was intended to utilize the axle I had, and making it work with a drive train swap I had in mind at the time. Plus it replaces the bearings that seem to be a weak spot on these axels. I think I understand it now, well, much better than I did. We'll see how much once I dig into it. In theory, yes, by unlocking the front axle and converting to part time, you will reduce driveline drag, because now your only turning the rear axle, and driveshaft. However, having owned many Dodges from that era, I wouldn't hold my breath on a bump in mpg's Just my honest opinion I think I'm going to take the advice of others that have been there and done it. Leave it stock for now, grease it up well and when something goes South, then worry about it. Thanks, I appreciate the input! I did it because I had the cv type joint go on the front driveshaft at around 70 1 day. It locked up the driveshaft and snapped a front axle shaft. I tend to put allot of highway miles on mine so I didn't want it to happen again. I noticed very little improvement in the fuel mileage but it went down the road a little smoother and eliminated the always spinning front end. Less u-joint wear and better front bearings. The kit was easy enough to install and always worked fine. You just need to make sure and put it in 4 wheel every now and then to splash oil on a few of the parts that don't get it in 2 wheel drive. I went with a donor axle from a newer Dodge for the parts. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks! I've Disabled AdBlock No Thanks. The increased traction is great, but it can also lead to twisted or broken front axles, broken axle U-joints, and other potential issues if the 20-year-old OEM axles aren’t updated. Freewheeling hubs allow you to manually engage and disengage your front axle, so you can get four-wheel drive traction when you need it. They were offered as options by four-wheeler manufacturers for decades, but were all but phased out in favor of full-time four-wheel-drive transfer cases and, eventually, selectable transfer cases. Nowadays, hubs on new vehicles are rare, but they can still provide many benefits, especially if your Jeep is your daily driver. These benefits include improved highway gas mileage, reduced front driveline wear and tear, easier steering effort, and reduced front tire wear in some cases. The conversion kit comes with new, very strong front axles, U-joints, bearings, seals, and brake rotors. (Please make note: This kit is for the Dana 30; it won’t work on a Rubicon Dana 44 axle.) Installing the conversion kit is not an easy two-hour task that anyone can do at home. You’ll need sufficient experience, a full set of hand tools, and a floor jack and jack stands (or a lift). If you know what you’re doing, you can expect the installation to take six to eight hours. We’ll be using Royal Purple Max-Gear (75W-140W) synthetic gear oil, which is a high-performance GL-4 and GL-5 automotive gear oil designed to provide maximum protection to heavily loaded gears. It outperforms many other oils and makes your gears run smoother, quieter, cooler, and longer without overhauls. The Rugged Ridge Boulder high-strength cast-aluminum differential cover is constructed from A356-T6 aluminum for impact resistance and features a precision-machined sealing surface, allowing gaskets or RTV sealant to be used for a leak-free seal. The cover is designed to help protect the internal components from damage caused by rocks and also helps dissipate heat from the differential. With hubs engaged the front tires are pulling the Cherokee up the slope and throwing dirt behind them. The hub conversion kit includes a set of Rugged Ridge manual locking hubs, inner and outer Alloy-USA axle shafts, ?-ton capacity aluminum internal mounting hub, U-joints, machined front brake rotors, bearings, seals and hardware. Everything you need to upgrade your rig and prepare it for the trail. Maximum recommended tire size is 33 inches. Rotors are five studs on 4.5 inches. This heavy-duty differential cover from Rugged Ridge is designed to protect your differential and all its working parts for as long as you own your vehicle. These indestructible covers have been “44-caliber tested”—if they can take a bullet at point-blank range, then they can handle all of the abuse that the trails have to offer. After safely supporting the Cherokee, remove the tires and brake calipers. Set the tires aside and hang the calipers out of the way on wire. Don’t allow the calipers to hang on the brake hose, as it may damage the hose. Remove the brake rotor, hub bearing assembly, axle, and dust shield on both sides. None of these items will be reused. After assembling the two axles a quick comparison of the two styles shows how different the two designs are, with the new axle having a much stronger and more reliable U-joint. Also make note that each side of the U-joint is equipped with a grease fitting to ease future maintenance. Carefully slide the two assembled axles into the housing. Make sure that you don’t damage the grease seals as you insert the axles, and also make sure they’re properly seated in the differential. Unpack the new conversion hubs. Ascertain which bearing race goes into which side and assemble. It may help to write the bearing ID on the hub to avoid confusion during assembly. Assemble both hubs. Prep all four bearings by packing them with a good quality bearing grease. This is the time-honored method for bearing packing. With the grease in your palm, press the bearing into the grease until grease begins to squeeze out the top. Continue to press the bearing into your palm as you rotate it. This is the same way you repack the bearings when needed, except you keep pressing until new grease comes out the top to replace the old dirty grease. Slip the bearings into their races. One on each hub will be retained by a grease seal while the other two go in just before the conversion hub is installed on the Jeep. (If you’re having trouble seeing the photos in the instructions, you can go to Alloy USA website and print out new instruction sheets.) Very carefully tap the rear bearing grease seal into place (the metal frame is quite fragile). Make sure it is squared up with the conversion hub. Use a block large enough to cover the entire seal so that it can be tapped in without bending or rocking. The bearing should be installed in the back side of the spindle with the proper tool. Make sure the bearing is completely seated in the spindle. Now install dust seal; the open side of the seal goes inward toward the bearing. Install the plastic fiber washer on the inward side of the spindle, slide the spindle over the axle shaft, and bolt the spindle onto the differential housing using the original bolts. Use Loctite on the bolts and torque them to 75-ft.-lb. he wheel studs hold the rotor and conversion hub assembly together. Being careful not to damage the studs’ threads, press them from the back side of the rotor, securing it to the hub. Use an alternating pattern when pressing in the studs. Carefully inspect the threads on all the studs to make sure the threads aren’t damaged. After installing the outer bearing, install the inner bearing locking nut. The inner locking nut has a small pin that must be on the outer surface face, toward the wheel. Use the proper spindle nut socket and torque the inner locking nut to 50-ft.-lb. After torqueing the nut, rotate the rotor in both directions to assist in seating the bearings, then loosen the nut a quarter-turn to release some pressure on the bearings. Align the notch on the inside of the lock washer with the notch cutout in the spindle. Make sure the small pin mentioned in photo 18 is aligned properly for this lock washer. If any end play occurs, the preceding procedures will have to be repeated. Install the brake pads in the calipers and then install the calipers. Slip the hub lock onto the spindle, then install the wheels, they hold the hub lock in place. Torque the lug nuts to Jeep’s specifications. Move the dial on the hub lock into the lock position. As you spin the wheel, make sure the axle shaft rotates with the rotor (check both sides). These Rugged Ridge Boulder high-strength cast-aluminum differential covers come complete with a magnetic drain plug for protection against costly damage from metal particles that can accumulate in gear oil. They also include a specially designed dipstick bolt to help Jeep owners avoid under or overfilling their differentials. After completely cleaning and scraping the differential’s surface, apply RTV silicone to act as a gasket. Be sure to circle the bolt holes as well. Finger-tighten all of the supplied flange bolts before tightening them. Torque all the bolts to 30 ft.-lbs. in an alternating crisscross pattern. Using Royal Purple Max-Gear (75W-140W) synthetic gear oil, fill the differential until the fluid begins to seep out of the filler hole, then insert and tighten the dipstick bolt. Use Loctite on the dipstick bolt and the magnetic drain plug to keep them from backing out accidentally. Back on the trail again, but with a stronger, more reliable Dana 30 front-end. 1 2 3 4 5 left The route predominately climbs above Kingman’s 3,500-foot elevation but also covers rolling hills and fairly long flat stretches for 40 miles and then returns to Kingman in a reverse direction. Other than having no traffic, it’s an excellent repeatable route for mileage tests. The pre-conversion mileage was 15.1 mpg; while the post-conversion mileage was 16.6 mpg. Admittedly, this was a controlled test, so your results will vary, but it’s still a good indication of what your results will be. He’s been building and wheeling Jeeps for more than fifty years. Learn how your comment data is processed. All Rights Reserved. Request a Call Replacements are available worldwide. Most hub assemblies are one piece, simply slide it on and bolt it down. They are unique in design and function. There is nothing on the planet like this kit that uses off-the-shelf (modified) factory OEM spec components. Why? That's the million dollar unanswered question. It's like towing an anchor all the time! It's easier to stop a free spinning wheel by itself than the entire front axle drive assembly when it's engaged. This kit uses factory specific parts, which are all improved OEM components. They have been completely through-hardened like high performance axle shafts. All parts may be purchased individually. Stub shafts and gears are heat treated to assure strength and durability. Product quality is the foundation we stand on; we build our hub kits with a relentless focus on safety, durability and craftsmanship. Watch our videos on how to easily perform lubrication maintenance of your Manual Locking Hubs: The recommended maintenance schedule for all manual locking hubs is every 24,000 Miles or less. Ultimately, our manual locking hubs can possibly last the life of your vehicle with regular maintenance. NOTE: Failure to properly maintain your bearings can result in the premature wear of your unit bearing locking hubs. Simply put, all bearings can fail from neglect or lack of applying grease at regular intervals. The design of our locking hubs has simplified the maintenance process by using the ABS access port for greasing your hub, making it straightforward and effortless. Excessive use or abuse can void your warranty. (Example: Leaving your hubs engaged for long periods, driving on dry pavement while hubs are engaged, etc.) All warranty claims must include a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) number, which you can request by contacting Support at 817-429-0105. Using premium quality materials with a durable metal construction, Mile Marker premium locking hubs are made in a wide variety of configurations to fit nearly any vehicle make and model and are designed to exceed industry standards for the extreme off-roader expecting the best performance at an affordable price. Something went wrong. View cart for details. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. You can unsubscribe at anytime. Subscribe Personal information provided may be collected, used and disclosed in accordance with our Privacy Policy Connect with Us Connect with us on your favourite social networks. We’ll let you know what we’re up to, and you can tell us how we’re doing. The early trucks have a wheel hub that is drilled and tapped on its outboard face in order to bolt on either a solid drive flange (full time) or external mount plastic dial Spicer hub lock (part time). For all Chevy and GMC Dana 44 front axles of the 1973-1980 era, the factory lockout hubs were made by Dana Spicer, but except for the axle shaft snap rings, no parts are interchangeable between the internal mount and external mount lockouts. Now we’ve expanded the line to include new Premium Locking Hubs for late model Ford Super Duty trucks—the first generation to feature WARN’s aggressive new hub styling. Check out the chrome and black offerings and remember: When it comes to hubs, Warn is the brand to trust. WARN Epic Wheels are packed full of the durability, performance, and style you expect from Warn Industries, and are designed for life off-road. These wheels fit your individual style and offer a perfect fit, no matter which Jeep you drive. Our hubs provide increased durability and fuel economy, and are easy to install. What else would you expect from the company that invented the locking hub. Keep in mind if you haven't already done a part time conversion to the NP203 transfer case that you will have to put it in the Hi-Loc position in order to drive. This will eventually wear out the differential lock pins so you should plan on either converting it to part time 4WD with one of the many kits available or swap your 727 and transfer case to a part time unit from a '80-'93 model truck. But, because of the design of the axle hubs used in the M880 series trucks, you would still have the front axle turning. The locking hubs swap was intended to utilize the axle I had, and making it work with a drive train swap I had in mind at the time. Plus it replaces the bearings that seem to be a weak spot on these axels. I think I understand it now, well, much better than I did. We'll see how much once I dig into it. In theory, yes, by unlocking the front axle and converting to part time, you will reduce driveline drag, because now your only turning the rear axle, and driveshaft. However, having owned many Dodges from that era, I wouldn't hold my breath on a bump in mpg's Just my honest opinion I think I'm going to take the advice of others that have been there and done it. Leave it stock for now, grease it up well and when something goes South, then worry about it. Thanks, I appreciate the input! I did it because I had the cv type joint go on the front driveshaft at around 70 1 day. It locked up the driveshaft and snapped a front axle shaft. I tend to put allot of highway miles on mine so I didn't want it to happen again. I noticed very little improvement in the fuel mileage but it went down the road a little smoother and eliminated the always spinning front end. Less u-joint wear and better front bearings. The kit was easy enough to install and always worked fine. You just need to make sure and put it in 4 wheel every now and then to splash oil on a few of the parts that don't get it in 2 wheel drive. I went with a donor axle from a newer Dodge for the parts. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks! I've Disabled AdBlock No Thanks.