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d1s 2r 220 manualJoin Eng-Tips Forums! By joining you are opting in to receive e-mail. Students Click Here Eng-Tips Posting Policies Sensor is connected to 220V power supply. The heating initially should start from 20degC. I have the basic manual (I do not have the original paper one which came with the controller). Please help. Regards If so, it may need a few hours before it's fully configured and stops complaining. Dan - Owner A 3 wire RTD can be wired in 6 different ways, only two of which will work. The resistance has to go beteween terminals 3 and 4 with the common wires on 4 and 5. Which common wire goes to 4 or 5 doesn't matter, but the other side of the resistor has to go to terminal 3. Get it reading the correct PV (temperature) first, everything else is secondary. Your control setpoint (SV) is presumably not your alarm setpoint. The absolute values you state are alarm setpoints, which probably not your control setpoint (SV).An upper display limit of 95C for a setpoint of 90C is a hopeful touch. Any particular reason you didn't make the limits a conventional 0-100 Deg C? I would think that when you select ON-OFF for the control output (CtrL), that Output Method (OP1) would disappear. Time duty doesn't make any sense for ON-OFF control. Manual mode is not what you bought a controller for. I bridged 4 and 5. I connected 1 red wire to 5 and 1 white wire to 3. (there are four wires of probe- 2 white and 2 red) The sensor seems to read the temperature correctly now. I changed it back to 0-100degC. If you do not mind I would have another question. I expected that in order to power the heater, Sestos must send a signal to SSR, then SSR starts 'powering' the heater, what would be noted by a red LED ON at SSR. Nevertheless, the heater is always ON, the LED is always OFF. I checked whether the SSR is normally opened or closed. I did not find such info. I can only assume that it is normally opened. FROM PSU- 230VAC goes to 9 (L) and 10 (N) in controller.http://www.gintaras.cz/userfiles/epson-stylus-photo-r260-manual.xml
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I connected 1 red wire to 5 and 1 white wire to 3. Thanks. I have simplified my electric circuit for simple test to verify whether controller actually controls the powering of the heater. My simplified electric circuit consisted of PSU, DC-DC SSR, 12VDC heater (sensor and probe were disconected from them but I could read the actual temperature of solution on the sensor). What I have found out was that in this simplified circuit the heater was still powered. Again '3' and '4' connections in SSR remained unwired. There is only one explanation- this SSR is normally closed, which is not the case when I check in the web. I am confused. Also keep in mind with SSRs, they often leak current. This one states it does. The amount it leaks is inconsequential to heating but can drive you crazy when you use a voltmeter that will show what looks like the relay being ON when it is in-fact off and just 'leaking'. You should confine your determination of the SSR being ON or OFF by whether the heater is physically heating or not heating - not a voltage measurement. Lastly, since you appear a newbie to all this I remind you that SSRs dissipate heat and are not like normal relays. This means you will burn them up if they are not properly heat-sinked so they can rid themselves of their heat of inefficiency. What current does your 12V heater draw or what is its resistance. From this we can determine the class of heat sinking you need to prevent the relay from promptly burning out. Keith Cress kcress - The circuit works very good now. Thank you. Please allow me to ask about one more thing. I need to slow down the heating rate of the solution. I would like to use the timer H3RN-1-B (I have it): My electric circuit is 12VDC. Also I am looking for a possibility of slowing down the heating rate with change of the Sestos PID controller settings. I have read that increasing of the 'P' value can do the work (to some extend).http://www.un-lebensberatung.at/userfiles/epson-stylus-photo-r265-service-manual.xml Would there be any other PID setting that could be changed to slow heating rate? Thanks. Keith Cress kcress - I think that I will try first changing the value of output limiter (from 100 say to 50 first). Hopefully, this solution will ok. Reasons such as off-topic, duplicates, flames, illegal, vulgar, or students posting their homework. The Eng-Tips staff will check this out and take appropriate action. Already a Member? Login Download Now Beyond the design, products need to solve real-life problems or provide huge benefits that genuinely merit separating money from wallets. Download Now That’s what you do. But you just never know what challenges your customers will throw at you next. 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Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Sensor is connected to 220V power supply. Please help. Regards At first glance, at least some of them have to to with these settings. There's a good chance the sensor is miswired. This sensor has a 4 wire output, and although it is hard to tell from the photo, it looks like two white wires, and two red wires. Usually, red wires are intended for current carrying, and white wires are used for voltage drop sensing. Use an ohmmeter to determine which red and white wires belong together (they'll measure less than an ohm between one another). The Sestos controller supports three wire RTD connections.I connected 1 red wire to 5 and 1 white wire to 3. (there are four wires of probe- 2 white and 2 red) The sensor seems to read the temperature correctly now. Thank you. However, the question whether I connected 'right' pair of 1 white and 1 red wires to the sensor is unknown, I do not have a multimeter. I meant controller. Thank you for spotting this. Update to my last input. I have simplified my electric circuit for simple test to verify whether controller actually controls the powering of the heater. My simplified electric circuit consisted of PSU, DC-DC SSR, 12VDC heater (controller was disconected from SSR but was powered and I could read the actual temperature of solution on the sensor). There is only one explanation- this SSR is normally closed, which is not the case when I check SSRs specs in the web. I am confused. P.S. The bottom of SSR is hot when operational. P.P.S. My DC-DC SSR My 12VDC PSU My heater is 12VDC 25A 300W It sounds like you have polarity reversed. I connected 1 red wire to 5 and 1 white wire to 3. (there are four wires of probe- 2 white and 2 red) The sensor seems to read the temperature correctly now. Thank you. However, the question whether I connected 'right' pair of 1 white and 1 red wires to the sensor is unknown, I do not have a multimeter. I switched red with red and white with white, I did not observe a difference so far.Analog Devices has a good write-up. Invest in a multimeter. It simplifies troubleshooting, and can literally save your life. Ok I will re-check your recommendations in regards to the probe connection with the controller. I have not checked how it works with other combinations, such as other white wire connected to terminal 5 and swapping red wires if necessary. I will check this. Thank you also for the linked website. It is very useful. The circuit works very good now. Thank you. In regards to the sink. I have temporarily exposed SSR to the PSU fans blow. SSR is cold now. This electric circuit is for rapid prototyping. At later stage I will add a proper heat sink to it. Thank you for the info you have sent and the diagram. It is very useful. I will apply it. Please allow me to ask about one more thing. I need to slow down the heating rate of the solution which is heated with the discussed circuit. Would there be any other PID setting that could be changed to slow heating rate? Thanks. Set up the alarm relay to active the recycling timer until MV temperature is somewhat above the lower proportional band limit, and once that temperature is met, bypass the timer. Since slow heatup is desired anyway, rather than adding this extra complexity try using the output limiter first. If upper output limit is set to 50 (depending on how the manufacturer implemented this feature) it limits the amount of heat output on-time to 50 of whatever the PID loop is commanding, or sets a hard 50 output limit regardless of what the PID loop commands. The connected 300W heater, in effect, averages only 150W output when limited to 50 output, 75W at 25 output limiting, and so on. Initially, set cycle time ('Control Period') to 10 seconds. This makes it easy to determine output by observing the 'OUT' LED, and using a stopwatch. For example, if the LED is on for 6.67 seconds of 10 second, control output is 66.7. A stirred liquid allows better temperature control quality. I'd try using the controller's auto-tuning feature first, and see if the parameters it returns provide adequately good control quality before diving into manual tweaking (and always record what these values are). This degree of rigorous documentation is particularly useful in cases like this where controller parameters are a little bit strange and not well understood, and aid in figuring out what's going on. Thank you again for your kind help. Indeed, I have tried the settings in PID in a lower temperature range first. The closer the temperature to 90degC the slower heating rate is. And with what loop tuning parameter values. Output upper limit, and. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Pins 3, 4 are for the tthermocouple so what is 5 for. I presume it is for the earth connector on some probes but just want to check before spending ages wiring it up. Ridley I take it you have a 2 wire K type probe for it or something along those lines??? It will work with a PT100 though Ridley If you want to use it for more than one task ie heating the hlt to strike temp and maintaining a herms, it may be worthwhile auto tuning for each task and noting the P I and D vars generated so you can manually adjust between tasks. Anyone able to provide basic setup instructions prior to running the autotune. I used a hefty heatsink but does it need a fan or any additional airflow. It will be controlling a 40l Buffalo. Anyone able to provide basic setup instructions prior to running the autotune. It will be controlling a 40l Buffalo. Those CPU coolers tend to have quite dense fins so need forced air to get much heat out of them. Then again, there's plenty of thermal inertia there so suck it and see. It won't go pop instantly. If it gets a bit warm after warming a batch up to mashing heat, add a fan. If not, so much the better. It only takes a minute to sign up. Initially, just to see if it works at all, I am trying to use it to control the temperature of my kettle. I've wired it all up correctly so that it can switch the kettle on and off, and the temperature probe is in the kettle. The temperature reading on the front is correct, but the device seems to be impossible to set up. None of thes has worked properly.Since the kettle heats up very quickly, the time period should be very short, and preferably the duty cycle kept low. Se I set the Ctl (Control Period) to 1, for 1 second. I assumed that I would see the output switching on and off at 1Hz, but I do not. I also set the oPH to 50, meaning that it should have a maximum 50 duty cycle. However, the output stays on for many seconds. According to the manual: Where is the Proportional setting? I followed the manual and managed to make it flash 'At', which I think means it's Autotuning. However, the temperature fluctuated wildly, and finally settled, oscillating between 53?C and 60?C, even though the set point was 50?C. Ctrl 3 (PID mode). M50 0 (Integral). P 1000 (Proportional?)Ctl 1 (Control Period: 1 second)This is a period of 70 seconds. Flicking through the settings, none of the numbers are set to 70 (or 35 or 140). So I don't think there's another setting which is controlling the period. It finally settled at 79.4?C with an output duty of 4. This really sounds like a fault in the control. During autotune, the temperature will go well past the set point in order to determine the amount the system will overshoot, and it will need to do this several times, meaning you may have to leave the unit for possibly several hours before the autotune is complete. P is the Proportinal parameter - can also be called Differential as in the manual - the output level is adjusted in proportion to the difference between the present value and the set value.After auto-tune I get these values: Only with PID mode is output variable, and then you will see the power drop to 50 maximum specified by oPH. A short press of the SET button toggles between showing the SV and the output level percent. This is to avoid continual cycling on and off. Personally, I would have preferred if the unit switched off at the set point and then on again when the temperature had fallen past SV-dF, so the SV is the maximum temperature. The default value is 0.3C, so you'll overshoot by 0.3C before it switches off. I set dF to the smallest value, 0.1C to reduce this overshoot to a minimum. I have added a little more information on my current configuration. I would easily be able to tell if it was less than 100 duty at 1Hz. And it should have been no more than 50. I am a robotic engineer, and have made many PID controllers for robots, so I'm used to watching for pulsing outputs, even at much higher frequencies. The 70s cycle sounds out of whack, did you find a solution to that. I have mine set to 2s and that's working fine. The more I try to get this thing working, the more frustrated I get. I am offering almost all of my meagre reputation in exchange for help. The more I try to get this thing working, the more frustrated I get. I am offering almost all of my meagre reputation in exchange for help. However, I'm getting frusttrated with my controller and I had PID in my studies. Any thoughts? That way, others can answer and comments on your question properly. I don't have the entire answer as yet, but I have found that the ctl period will not go to a short time when the P value is a lot longer than the control period. Set the controller back to default values and it will allow 4 seconds for Ctl. (The amount doesn't appear to be linear, but is around P Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research. Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience. To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers. Browse other questions tagged equipment temperature-control or ask your own question. Shipping:Item will dispatch within 1-2 biz days once payment received.Default shipping for United States is ePacket mail and estimated delivery within 6-15 business days.Default shipping for others country is China Post mail and estimated delivery within 15-35 business days.Please make sure your shipping address is current and correct, ZIP CODE matters also. We only use the Paypal address for delivery. Due to the security reasons, we are not allowed to make address changes via email. We have no responsibility for an incorrect shipping address provided.The delivery address must be a residence or street address. (Only United States) the P.O. Box, FPO or APO address are available. We will work with you to until you are satisfied. We are handling large volume emails every day. Please give us the opportunity to resolve any issues before leaving negative feedback. You are the light of the world. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I have poured over the manual, and even read the Auber manual to no avail. I think my main problem is that the Control period seems to be much longer than I expect. These are the settings I have programmed into it: It's currently showing 'A 50', which means 50 output duty. With a control period of 1, I would expect the output to be on for 0.5s, then off for 0.5s. However, what I'm seeing is the output is on for 35s, then off for 35s. Is this what I should expect. Can someone verify this behaviour on their device. Many thanks in advance. Hugo In auto mode you the controller should be handling its on off cycles internally. In manual mode you simply dial in a percentage, say 50, and during your control cycle, the element will be on 50 of the time. If that cycle was 10s, then it would be on 5s, off 5s. You shouldnt be using the manual mode when holding a very specific temperture is important. You will find that in auto mode as you begin to hit your temp, the PID will cycle the element off and on periodically in order to not overshoot. Hope this helps. If I misunderstood your question I apologize I'm familiar with PID controllers (I'm a robotic engineer and have created many PID controllers myself). I know what the Sestos is supposed to do. My problem is that it doesn't seem to be doing what I expect, and the terrible manual doesn't help. Have you managed to get one working. Did you manage to get it to auto tune properly. When mine auto tunes, it comes up with stupid settings, which simply boil the water rather than holding the 50?C temperature I ask for. Have you tried setting a control period less than 8? Does it have the effect you expect, or does it produce control periods of 70s? It worked right from the get go, I followed the Auber manual, a few of the settings are named slightly different but they are in the same order as the Auber as you cycle thru them. Yes I have run the auto tune a few times. The process I went thru when auto tunning was take the temp to within about 20 degrees of your typical set point (for my setup the PID controls the HLT element (HERMS setup)).So I take it to 140. Turn off the PID, then restart and place it in the auto tune mode with a 155 setpoint. It will overshoot a few times and dial in the P, I and D gains. In terms of control period, I have mine set for 10s, which I find is absolutely fine for the process I run. I am only using the manual mode for boiling, nothing temperature critical. If it wasnt, I would check your SSR to see if it is operating normally. I actually went thru a couple SSR's (cheap china ebay specials), until i got one that works fine. I was having the same problem as what you desrcibed. If the red output light remained lit after it passed the checkpoint, and you verified that there is voltage present at the SSR terminals of the PID i would say you may have a defective PID. This was way longer than the control period. When I checked the PID settings, I had been auto tuned to 9999. This is clearly a nonsense value, and could have been responsible for the bad behaviour. This has happened twice. The SSR is operating correctly. The red 'Out' light, the SSR light, and the Kettle light all go on and off at the same time. How do I know for sure. Something went wrong.Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. 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Product does not come with warranty unless stated otherwise in product description. Product does not come with warranty unless stated otherwise in product description. Product does not come with warranty unless stated otherwise in product description. Functionality issues beyond signs of use should be disclosed in product description. Some manufacturers place restrictions on how details of their products may be communicated. Some manufacturers place restrictions on how details of their products may be communicated. Some manufacturers place restrictions on how details of their products may be communicated. Some manufacturers place restrictions on how details of their products may be communicated. The first time I assumed something had blown and checked the fuse. Trying it a few days later it worked again. Now I have given it another try it has just done the same thing - lights off total shut down and won't come back on after an hour. Anyone had a similar problem? Fermnting: not a lot. Conditioning: nowt Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate The first time I assumed something had blown and checked the fuse. Anyone had a similar problem. My mark 1 HLT controller died caused by over heating, it melted the case and part of the SSR. You do not say if you are using it to control an SSR but I would check how hot things are when it shuts off. I would recommend a large heat-sink for the SSR, I now use a metal case which further helps with heat dissipation, I have seen here on this forum some people using a fan as well Wiring looks good to me, no loose wires or burning smells. Yes I do have a SSR, which doesn't seem to get especially hot to the touch but its not ventilated in any way and its all contained in an open-backed wooden box knocked up from off cuts. Would an overheating SSR cause the display on the PID to suddenly switch off. Fil - I have the Auberon manual now, its a bit easier to understand than the Sestos. However neither of them mention why the controller shoudl shut down like this. WIll have another go this evening and see if its come back to life this time. Fermnting: not a lot. Conditioning: nowt Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate Useful to know about the heat sink though and thanks for the photo Fil. My boiler is only 1800W but I guess the SSR will still get hot. Its a Lidl boiler that packed up now working again with a hob scavenged from an electric cooker as heater. Hoping that the FB will prevent scorching of the grain and the relatively low power under the floor won't burn the wort. Thanks for your help Cheers I'm inspired to rebuild it. Thanks. These are the bomb for guitars and for drum overheads with the right compression they will blow you away. 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