cushcraft mn8 manual
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cushcraft mn8 manualAll Categories ANTENNAS NEW PRODUCTS ANTENNA ACC GUYING VHF YAGI Product Search Cushcraft achieved a major breakthrough in the development of an HF multiband vertical antenna that has been specifically designed for use with a tuner and amplifier. As a result, the antenna more accurately addresses the needs of the contemporary ham shack. Multiband vertical antennas have always been complicated designs with components as likely to be damaged by high levels of mismatched transmit power as the rigs they are attached to. Before the use of tuners became widespread, the antenna was protected by the same safety mechanisms that protected the rig. Now, the automatic power reduction circuits of the past have actually become a second layer of protective circuitry. Although the auto-tuner provides the ham with a more versatile device as well as protecting the rig’s components, the antenna is more vulnerable than ever. With the press of a button, very high loads can be imposed on the antenna. The result to the antenna can be catastrophic failure in some instances. The R8 is the first multiband vertical designed for the rigors of contemporary operating conditions. Although the antenna is best operated within it’s 2.0:1 VSWR bandwidth,it can sustain a 3.0:1 VSWR mismatch at full power for typical operating intervals. Now radio amateurs can take full advantage of the versatility that a tuner used in conjunction with a multiband HF vertical antenna can give them. For high wind environments, add the R8GK Guy kit-three point non-conductive guy system. The R8 provides 360 degree (omni) coverage on the horizon and a low radiation angle in the vertical plane for a better DX. Page Count: 14 This antennaWhen checking the components received in your antenna package useThere is a master parts list on page 2. If you are unable to locateIMPORTANT: Save the weight label from the outsideIf you claim a missing part,If you use volunteer helpers be sure that they are qualified to assist you.http://pacwestmicro.com/pacwest/admin/engineering-circuit-analysis-7th-edition-hayt-solutions-manual.xml
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Make certain that everyone involved understands that you are the boss and that they must follow yourThis serves as protection from lightning strikesA good electrical connection should be made to one or more ground rods directly at the base of the antenna. For details and safety standards,You should also use a coaxial lightning arrestor. Cushcraft offersAfter assembling the antenna, verify all dimensionsR8 Tube BD 1” x 36” (2.5 x 91cm). BT2 Trap 30 Meter. R8 Matching NetworkAluminum Bracket. Aluminum Half Washer. Extruded Aluminum V-Block. Radial Ring Bracket. Radial Ring. Aluminum Stub Clamp. Connector Boot. Silicone Package. Matching Network Bracket. Danger Label. Ground Strap. Aluminum L Bracket. Aluminum Mounting PlateAttach the rings to the base using theLonger dimensionPosition bottom MNSecure MN to upper MN bracket (160) with two nuts (11) andThe radial rods may be inserted into the base section at anyTighten the corresponding ring screwsThe radial rings doDo not overtighten the screws. When all rods are secure,Attach jumper strapRepeat this as well on tube (BC) as. NOTE: Make sure that the tubes are oriented with the slotted endsScrewWasherScrewL BracketFlat WasherInsulatorInsulatorInsulatorSlide this assembly into tube BB and secure itMake sure that plastic insulators are aligned asLeave the hardware on clampsIn same fashionPlace the protective plastic cap onInsert rod ( SE) into tube (SD) as shownFrequency (MHz)Insert tube (SG) on the right side stub as shown and secure withJ2 along with protectiveBracketHalf WasherHex NutSlide tube (BH) into tube (BG) and adjust forInstall X-hats (XHR32) on swedged tube (BF) as shown in callout ofFrequency (MHz) Length (In) (cm)The bottom of the plate should should beWhen attaching mounting plate to the mast use the (405) U-bolts, aluminum. V-blocks (63), and nut (389).Figure N. The R8 is designed for use with 50 Ohm coaxial cable terminated with a. PL-259 connector. The shortest length of cable will have the least loss.http://www.hydroexpert.ru/img/engineering-circuit-analysis-7th-edition-solution-manual-chapter-12.xml A connector boot is included for use with your new antenna (figure O). Slide the boot over the cable before attaching your PL-259. Coat only theDo not coat theAfter the PL-259 is firmly screwed onto theAfter the antennaIf you plan to install theGain, dBi. VSWR 2:1 bandwidth, KHz. VSWR at resonance (typical). Power Rating, Watts CW. Vertical Radiation angle, deg. Horizontal rad, deg. Height, ft(m). Wind survival. Weight, lb. (kg)Performance may vary due to the randomIf, in the judgementThis warranty is in lieu of all other expressed warranties, any implied warranty is limited inCushcraft Corporation shall not be liable for any incidental or consequential damages which maySome states do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts or exclusions or limitationsThis warranty givesThis warranty does not extendAny repairs or alterationsFile Type Extension: pdf. PDF Version: 1.2. Linearized: Yes. Create Date: 2000:04:27 09:43:16. Producer: Acrobat Distiller 4.0 for Macintosh. Modify Date: 2000:04:27 09:43:18-04:00. Page Count: 14. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. The coax was replaced with no improvement. The maximum power I've ever used is 100 watts. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. I did notice the coax connector on the black box spun when I was connecting the new coax, but I didnt notice any broken connection inside the box. John KI3TThe MAIN vertical radiator is tuned for 17-meters, below the sleeve band traps. Guying is suggested for the vertical antenna, due to weight (2 sleeve traps) at top of the antenna. This reduces the whipping action on parts at top of antenna, that can lead to metal fatigue or failure of connections. That trap has 2 coils, the 17-meter on bottom and 20-meter on the top. Since your 17-meter operation is assumed OK (you did not mention issues), focus your attention to the BT1 outer aluminum sleeve connection to internal 20-meter coil (aluminum wire) at top of trap. You could try removing it, or wind a better one on a ferrite bar with 18g teflon wire. The other thing to look at are the capacitors in the matching section - and clean the match box out thoroughly. You could likely replace the matchbox with a remote auto tuner as well - take the two ferrite core choke out of the box, and use that for a choke to feed the autotuner just as it feeds the matching transformer and caps in the match box.Have someone rattle it around and see if it's jumpy.You could try removing it, or wind a better one on a ferrite bar with 18g teflon wire. You could likely replace the matchbox with a remote auto tuner as well - take the two ferrite core choke out of the box, and use that for a choke to feed the autotuner just as it feeds the matching transformer and caps in the match box. Click to expand. Click to expand. Replaced the screws, and problem resolved. Thank you all for your input. 73's JohnRegister for a free QRZ account. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Despite some small assembly problems the antenna shows high SWR on all bands. By investigating the MN8 matching box it became clear that somebody had a go on it. The balun looks quite messy and had a broken wire at the joint to the pc board. The balun has an unequal number of turns: 6 turns black wire, 9 turns white wire. Before I put it up it would be great if someone can help me with the correct data on the balun. Best 73's Hal, EA5GNIThere used to be assemby instructions available for downloading of the R5 and R7 antenna's and I think this could have been on the Cushcraft site. I think that MFJ purchased Cushcraft so perhaps a look at their site might be helpfulBefore I put it up it would be great if someone can help me with the correct data on the balun. Click to expand. R5 Matching Unit Rebuild by G0WCW using EI7BA method (photos and data) Balun Designs (USA) sells the re-wound baluns for the matching box. Check PA0FRI web page for recommendations on insulator repair.Amidon changed suppliers (supposedly to a Chinese company) -- I would imagine MFJ got stuck with some of those cores. I deal with Bob at Balun Designs or other suppliers that produce quality ferrite cores for Cushcraft matching box repairs !! w9gbFred EI4GMBFred EI4GMB Click to expand. I hate to see that, as Cushcraft had several very solid designs that worked fine for many years. All that is lost, now.I did not know that the matching networks for those verticals are nearly the same. Best 73's HALI did not know that the matching networks for those verticals are pretty much alike. In the past 30 years or so I had the R5, R7 and R7000 but never ever needed to open a matching box. In addition I had the A3S, A3WS and the early X9. I guess all thoes antenna's are still in use by some other hams. Since 10 years I built my antenna's myself. They are all yagi types, monoband and are 100 from alloy !!!! The only exception is the great 2D-30 from CAL-AV, Tucson, Az. Best 73's Hal, EA5GNIIf it is anywhere near other objects (trees, structures, or the ground), you'll have a bear of a time getting it tuned. If you do get it tuned, if you QSY to a point the SWR exceeds about 3:1, don't use a tuner to get it back flat. Doing so is a sure way to distort the ferrite. I've been there, and done that.Register for a free QRZ account. If you read the reviews on commercially made verticals and also beams, so many people complain that they don't work properly some of the time. I have never had any trouble with verticals or beams if I read the manual and follow the assembly instructions closely. However, over the years, I have found that there are other things that can enhance the operation, reliability and longevity of any antenna that especially uses metal tubing such as Aluminum. Remember this; Aluminum oxidation starts forming as soon as the tubing is manufactured and. Aluminum oxide is an insulator. Here's what I do when assembling an antenna right out of the box: 1. Get the electric drill out and install a large bit into the chuck. 2. Wrap a pad of fine steel wool around the bit and ream out the inside of the larger tubing into which another piece of tubing will slide and. Grease up the inside and outside of the Aluminum tubes and other parts that are to be fit together; this will guarantee a good electrical connection for sure; no need to over-do-it on the grease, though !! Cleanup the excessive grease with alcohol. 4. One weak mechanical and electrical situation with the Cushcraft R8 and R9 verticals is that the ends of the trap coils are brought out and wrapped around small hex sheet metal screws to the trap cover; this is asking for a bad connection, oxidation and intermittent operation. Purchase some Aluminum flat washers and lock washers and use them to produce a solid contact but don't over tighten the screws; don't forget to steel wool the connection and use the conductive grease first ! 5. Last but not least !!!! Verticals have a tendency to get water inside the tubing and traps. The plastic, trap covers, often crack or split with age; water can ooze into where the tubing pieces slide together or where various screws run thru the tubing. It is a clear rubbery liquid.I'm on the SoCal coast where salt air is a problem. I'm also on a residential lot with no space for radials on the ground, I operate on phone, CW and digital modes on all 8 bands at 100W max. Assembly was easy. All the parts were there and fit correctly (with a little tweaking). The tilt base is mounted to a 4ft section of galvanized pipe set in a 3.5 x 2ft concrete base. Because we have a strong sea breeze everyday I used the 3 point guy wire kit. The antenna has performed well on all bands and modes. 40M is very narrow so I tuned it to 7.175 and my AT2K handles the tuning elsewhere. I don't need (although I still use) a tuner on the other bands as the SWR is good (1.5 to 3.0) across the bands. Over-all I would say the antenna meets my expectations and performs well considering the limitations I have here in SoCal. I've worked 110 countries on it and all 50 states. I get very good signal reports from it. Yes its noisy on RX, but that was expected from a vertical. Upon initial installation, I placed the antenna too close to my house. The radials were less than 3ft from the roof. After testing, I found by relocating it so the radials were 8ft from the roof, the SWRs were much better. This might have been because there is a metallic material (granules) in the composition of my roof shingles. Over all I would say the R8 meets my expectations. I didn't give it a 5 as during the assembly, I had several questions for Cushcraft and I was surprised to find they didn't have the answers. This puzzled me as they have been producing this antenna for years. Would I recommend the R8. Yes, if you are dealing with space restrictions. If I were to do it over I would get the R9 and have 80M. The tuning stubs needed double hose clamps or else they would slide apart when the R8 was moving in the wind. Guyed at two levels but the 40M trap went faulty after about 2 years due to the 'whipping' of the top trap element in the wind. Performance was excellent on all the bands 40M to 6M with low SWR.That’s fine forget it, I’m going to consider other brand’s vertical antenna in the market, hopefully, coming back to the radio soon. Don’t put too much output power on this product, less than 500watts CW mode will getting safety. My MFJ-986 easily handles the slight mismatch below 7.150. 30, 20, and up are fine across each of those bands. BTW, the AA230Z makes it super quick and easy to check and tune multiband antennas like the R8. In both cases the problem was in the MN-8 matchbox. The MN-8 is a simple unit that contains two wound toroids and a blue disc cap. It makes electrical contacts with (A)the upper radiating section of the antenna, (B) the ground plane clamshell ring, and (C)the base. You'd think it should be bombproof, but it isn't. The brackets get oxidized and need routine cleaning. That can be done without opening the MN-8 box. However, I found I couldn't fix the problem and I opened up the box. The first time I did that I found the problem was poor soldering at the center coax connector and fixing it got another 3 years of good performance. Easy to resolder. The other joints looked intact, but just to make sure I resoldered them as well. The R8 now works as well as it did in 1998. As others have said, this is a multiband HF vertical, and such antennas represent compromises. My previous vertical was a Butternut HF-9 (used the 80m add-on kit and radials). I found that the R-8 worked just as well (and better) without the need for a radial system. I set mine at the middle of the bands and use the ATU to get the best match that I need, since I operate both CW and phone. 20 and 17 seem to be difficult to independently tune mechanically (shared trap?), but an ATU works there when the R-8 is mechanically tuned to mid-band on 20. Bottom line: I've had the R-8 for 15 years. When it works, it is a fine multiband vertical HF antenna that sets up over a very small footprint. I don't know about the MFJ version, which may use some less durable hardware parts according to some of the posters. All the hardware (clamps, bolts, etc.) that came on mine were SS. I don't know if MFJ has changed the aluminum Cushcraft used for the elements or the traps, but mine has stood up fairly well. Aluminum is what it is, and needs occasional cleaning. Last time I took the antenna apart I used Loctite C5-A copper based anti-seize compound between the elements, which seems to make a good electrical connection and protect from corrosion. I recommend it when you first assemble the antenna. Finally, the MN-8 is a potential source of serious problems, and you should always suspect it if you develop high SWR across the bands. The good news is that it is easy to repair. I had and R7 that was perfect.Yes I know it doesn't do 80.I have 150 countries confirmed on LOTW, most of which came from using the R8 and 100W. Another 1000 contacts in my logbook. My husband had put it together while I was at work in 2007, having no previous experience in HF antennas, he had no problems reading the manual and doing exactly like it said. He dug a hole and cemented a tilt over mount into it. We have three guy lines on it. Our side yard is only 10 feet wide so two guys are tied to the chainlink fence in opposite directions. The other guyline is located on the other side of our mobile. 35' wide mobile with metal roof. I had read every review on this antenna and the previous Cushcraft series in order to try to troubleshot high SWR across all the bands I had this past week. Some of the reviews were----don't put this antenna near any metal, our is, that wasn't our problem. Let me start with March 2016, I noticed I was not making contacts as well as I thought I should be. Armed with a CAA500 analyzer I hooked up the coax to it and found that 20m 17m and 30m were very high. That lead us to lower this antenna that had been up there working like a charm for the past 8 years, with no maintenance. We finally figured out that the traps probably were bad. Since I had a stroke in Jan.We installed the traps, cleaned every connection, cleaned all parts with steel wool, reread the entire manual, made sure all measurements were still correct and raised it. The SWR was great on all bands. I was elated to be back on the air again. Then came the three dust storms and high winds of two weeks ago. Suddenly my radio would not let me tune anymore. I grabbed the analyzer and the SWR was sky high on all bands. Couldn't believe it. We lowered the antenna again, checked the coax, it was good. Hooked up a vertical on a tripod on the roof so I could at least do 20m while we tried to figure this one out. We assumed that it had to be the network box since the traps had just been replaced. We took it apart, looked at it really good. Tony even brought a meter home so he could cut off the capacitor and check it to see if it was good. Before he could do that and while he was at work I scoured the internet for any hint of something we didn't do or check. The ladders hold the antenna in place so nothing gets bent. He just told me not to worry about it, it didn't matter. When Tony got home that evening we went out there and I was showing him what I thought may be wrong with the antenna. I was thinking that the worm clamps had loosen and let the antenna turn some in the high winds and dust storms. He got new clamps, turned the bottom part and was aligning it like the manual showed and while he was doing that, I was holding the top part off of the fence railing so the top wouldn't hang up on the chainlink fence but the radials got caught and the top part wasn't turning and it should of been with him turning it at the bottom. The clamp was broke. After fixing those problems, then showed him the tips in the reviews and told him to cut the zip off the torrid's to see if the soldered connections were still good. He did and they were. With the antenna laying there in the yard on the metal fence, I put the analyzer on the R8 (another reviewer said he did it like that) and the SWR was not too bad. They were not pegging the meter like before. We raised the antenna, checked it with the analyzer again and the highest swr was on 17m 1.9! All the rest were lower than that and we were very happy that the antenna was working once again. After hooking every up, bolting the mast in place and checking one more time with the analyzer, the SWR's were even lower. Within one minute of finishing SWR I turned on the radio and instantly made a contact with South Cook Island on 17m with a 58 RST. I am now a happy ham again. I had did a lot of research on antenna's and was thinking about getting a different one but with having to go with a vertical and not wanting to dig up our ROCK yard to lay a lot of radials this R8 was everything I needed and the bands were the ones I wanted. I don't have 80m or 160 but since never working them and not caring if I do I am greatly satisfied with the R8. And as far as the comments on MFJ and parts not being available I don't understand where they are coming from. I emailed MFJ, they answered. I ordered parts for the R8 and they arrived within a week. Just to add a word of thanks to the reviewers on the R8 that gave hints and tips for the antenna, thank you for helping me get back on the air. 73 On the West Coast I've worked all continents with it running less than 100 watts; in fact, I worked Japan, North Carolina, New Jersey and Florida with my Wilderness NORCAL 40-A QRP rig (less than 5 watts). There were some aggravating problems with the original shipment such as several missing bolts and an incorrect flanged pipe near the apex. However, when I spoke to the gripe supervisor she had the correct parts delivered to my door the next day - I was impressed. The assembly was straight forward and not complicated. I was able to erect the R-8 lashed to my chimney on the roof, with no help, and I'm not extra-ordinairally strong, just patient; it IS a challenge by yourself and I recommend a second person to help as it tends to wobble, but do-able solo. It's such a pleasure to have QSOs with German, Dutch, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, Swiss, Norwegian and Coastal African stations with only 100 watts on 40 Meters at night using this practical, well designed, superbly engineered and over-built antenna. The R-8 is very similar to the R-7 but the detuning stubs and improved traps eliminate many of the latter's problems such as changing SWR with increased moisture and rain. Very solid mechanical construction and RF performance. It bends with the wind - over 30 knots it looks pretty scary but still recovers and stands up straight. It is now mounted on my roof strapped to my chimney. It can be erected easily by one man. I'm not that big or strong but it can be done if you brace the base against a support so that it doesn't move then it's not difficult. Its performance is superb; have worked every continent except Africa with only 100 watts, SSB, PSK31 and CW. The instructions are very clear with high quality drawings - hard to beat. One of the best written manuals I've used for ham gear.I recently bought a new one to replace my DXEE, which it also outperforms. The only problem is MFJ QC, or lack thereof. First the groundplane radials were missing. Once they were replaced I discovered that the 20-meter trap was broken--clearly dropped before shipment. That was then replaced. MFJ was helpful and responsive, but it would be a lot more helpful if they'd respond the QC gripes that keep cropping up in eHam reviews. Mediocre hardware at best. Initially gave me advice on the wrong antenna. Haven't heard from them in a week. Don't waste your money. If it works out of the box you're good. Otherwise you are on your own. When you subscribe, you receive only messages forOther useful informationThe site will be something of which everyone involved can be proud to say they were a part. Contact the site with comments or questions. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience. Hablando con el companero Antonio - EA7HS me dice que es un problema de sobra conocido por falta de remaches al final de las espiras de la bobina, que a muchos otros les ha pasado. La mia es de un lote de 2016, aunque la compre hace un mes. Es decir, desde que MFJ se hizo con Cushcraft, ha perdido mucho en calidad (que no en precio.porque no era ni es barata!). Por eso, aviso a futuros compradores de esta antena, que ya no es lo que era. De momento, ya toca bajarla otro dia y volver a mover el armatoste. Viendo que el problema esta en las bandas de 30 y 40m, creemos que el fallo este dentro de la bobina BT2. Ya medimos continuidad en el ultimo tramo y por las bobinas, pero por fuera, con lo cual nos falto mirar si por dentro la tenia y si estaba todo correcto. Las varillas, orden de las bobinas y demas estan puestas correctamente, o al menos, segun lo que dice el manual. En las demas bandas (de 6-20m), sin problemas. Ya os contare! Nuestra sospecha es que el remache dentro de la bobina BT2 no este correcto. Los exteriores si estaban bien cuando colocamos la antena. Seguire comentando cuando la bajemos y lo podamos ver directamente. Recibi una en garantia de MFJ, la sustituimos y la antena funciona perfectamente en las bandas de 30 y 40m, y en las demas bandas sigue tan bien como inicialmente. El caso es que abrimos la bobina defectuosa y no observamos ningun fallo en los remaches, falta de continuidad donde debia, etc. Nos falta hacer algunas medidas mas exhaustivas con ella para averiguar por curiosidad que le puede pasar. Lo importante es que la antena ya funciona. Lo importante es que la antena ya funciona. ?Gracias a todos por vuestras respuestas y ayuda! En el poco tiempo que la tengo he hecho buenos DX, a pesar de que la propagacion esta muy baja. En 15,17, 20m. he contactado varios paises de Sudamerica, el Caribe y Norteamerica con facilidad. En 30 y 40m he llegado incluso a VK. Casi todos mis contactos los hago en CW, que tambien se nota. Despues de un rato, se dio cuenta de que uno de los tornillos rosca-chapa hacia corto con el tubo central al estar totalmente apretado, y en ese momento la resonancia se iba al garete. La solucion seria simplemente poner una arandela estriada para que no se afloje y para que no llegue a tocar el tubo central. O unos tornillos un par de milimetros mas cortos. Por otro lado realiza una comparacion con diferentes diametros de tubos de 4cm y 5cm Esta instalada con vientos de cuerda de nailon para evitar que cimbree demasiado y la apariencia fisica hace pensar que estructuralmente la antena esta OK. El unico problema fue que durante el montaje inicial el ajuste en la banda de 40 m lo hice por error centrado en 7.000 Mhz cuando mi idea era dejarlo en 7.100 Mhz, con lo cual la ROE en la zona de 7.100 a 7.200 es alto y debo tirar de acoplador. Dado lo complicado que es corregir ese mal ajuste ya que hay que bajar la antena, etc.Lo curioso del asunto es que el problema desaparece solo, sin haber tocado nada en la antena. He observado que la ROE vuelve a los valores normales cuando llueve o durante la noche y se acentua durante el dia, sobre todo cuando pega el sol y la temperatura es alta. Te toca retocar conexiones. Animo. Activadas por defecto. COOKIES TECNICAS NECESARIAS Estas cookies son necesarias para que la pagina web funcione, por lo que no se pueden desactivar. Por lo general, solo se configuran en respuesta a sus acciones realizadas al solicitar servicios, como establecer sus preferencias de privacidad, iniciar sesion o completar formularios, en ningun caso almacenan informacion de identificacion personal. En caso de que configure su navegador para bloquear estas cookies, la pagina web no funcionaria correctamente. Gracias a ellas podemos mejorar constantemente tu experiencia de navegacion. Puedes activarlas o desactivarlas. COOKIES DE ANALISIS Las cookies de analisis nos permiten estudiar la navegacion de los usuarios de nuestra pagina web en general (por ejemplo, que secciones de la pagina son las mas visitadas, que servicios se usan mas y si funcionan correctamente, etc.). Por tanto, estas cookies no tienen una finalidad publicitaria, sino que unicamente sirven para que nuestra pagina web funcione mejor, adaptandose a nuestros usuarios en general. Activandolas contribuiras a dicha mejora continua. COOKIES DE PUBLICIDAD Las cookies de publicidad nos permiten la gestion de los espacios publicitarios incluidos en nuestra pagina web en base a criterios como el contenido mostrado o la frecuencia en la que se muestran los anuncios. COOKIES DE FACEBOOK Utilizamos cookies para habilitar las funciones que nos ayudan a proporcionar los Productos de Facebook, con el fin de proporcionar contenido relevante para tu configuracion regional. COOKIES DE TWITTER Twitter para sitios web es un conjunto de productos que permiten a los editores de sitios web integrar el contenido de Twitter en sus sitios. Estos productos incluyen los Tweets incrustados, las cronologias incrustadas, los botones para Twittear y los botones para seguir una cuenta. This antenna will perform as specified if the instructions and suggestions in this manual are followed and care is used in the assembly and installation. When checking the components received in your antenna package use the parts listed beside each diagram. There is a master parts list on page 2. If you are unable to locate any tube or component, check the inside of all tubing. IMPORTANT: Save the weight label from the outside of the carton. Each antenna is weighed at the factory to verify the parts count. If you claim a missing part, you will be asked for the weight verification label. PLANNING Plan your installation carefully. If you use volunteer helpers be sure that they are qualified to assist you. Make certain that everyone involved understands that you are the boss and that they must follow your instructions. If you have any doubts at all, employ a professional antenna installation company to install your antenna.