curtis pb-6 pot box manual
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curtis pb-6 pot box manualCar Parts Company Storage Shipping will be billed separately. Curtis also offers a self-contained foot pedal unit (FP-2) that eliminates the need for fabricating and installing a pedal-potbox linkage. The mounting dimensions are shown in Figure 3. The lever arm provides a series of holes so that the accelerator pedal “throw” can be converted into the correct amount of potentiometer rotation. Use of a second return spring on the pedal, in addition to the potbox return spring, is required to prevent an uncontrollable full-on throttle input (which could happen if there was a single spring, and it broke). If the self-contained potbox spring is insufficient to return the pedal by itself, two additional pedal return springs must be used. This mechanical stop will prevent the potbox lever arm from bending if undue force is put on the pedal. Protection of the potbox from water and dirt will help avoid problems of corrosion and electrical leakage. After the potbox has been mounted, operation of the pot can be tested by measuring the resistance between the two wires with an ohmmeter. With the pedal not applied, the resistance should be less than 50 ohms. As the pedal is applied, the resistance should rise smoothly until it reaches a value between 4500 and 5500 ohms. Values below 4500 ohms may cause a reduction in efficiency and top speed. Values above 7000 ohms indicate a defective potbox, and will cause controller shutdown. Maintenance Potbox maintenance is similar to controller maintenance: inspect for integrity of connections and mounting, and clean (with a moist rag) as required. Adjustment Curtis potboxes are factory set and rarely require user attention. To test and adjust, connect an ohmmeter to the potbox wires and use this procedure: 1. With the spring holding the lever arm against the return stop, the resistance should be less than 50 ohms. Slowly move the lever. Use a screwdriver to rotate the pot shaft slightly with respect to the lever.http://eperon-kochersberg.com/img_db/enforcer-car-alarm-manual.xml
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When adjustment is correct, tighten the screw holding the lever on the pot shaft, then recheck to see that this action did not disturb the adjustment. Make sure that the lever is still seated down on the pot shaft below the slight bevel on the end of the shaft. 3. Check the resistance with the lever pushed all the way to the other stop. It should be between 4500 and 5500 ohms. If it is outside this range, the potbox is faulty and should be replaced. 4. For potboxes equipped with a safety microswitch, check for correct switch operation. Use an ohmmeter, or simply listen for the slight click the switch makes. If it does not, adjust by loosening the two screws holding the slotted safety microswitch mounting plate to the stop spacers and moving the plate. Recheck the switch operating point after tightening the screws. To Checkout” Request” selected PB-6 pot box throttle EV controller component order. Us page All Rights Reserved. Universal Applications. For 0-5k ohm ControllersIf item is backordered, then you will be notified within 48 hours of order. I can order anytime of day and not have to wait for a phone call back.Highly recommend to everyone!Their search technology makes finding parts simple.Universal Applications. For 0-5k ohm Controllers. If you continue, we assume that you agree to receive cookies from this site. OK It was designed for cable actuation. The PB-8 is outfitted with a micro switch which may be optionally used for various control inputs. The output is 0-5k ohm. Ste 3 Santa Rosa, CA 95407 Tel: (707) 578-7973 Powered by Ecommerce software with PayPal. We are currently experiencing shipping delays and high than usual call volume. Read the latest COVID-19 Updates.Universal Applications. The Curtis 1204 manual is pretty clear. This one has 3 wires. I'm kind of confused on what to do now.I don't know how to wire this PB-6 for my controller. It is a very solid looking PB-6 3 wire made of Stainless Steel.http://www.shannonlakeestates.org/fck_images/enforcer-32we-installation-manual.xmlIf you need to reverse it, flip the two (non-black) wires around. This is to put modern wiring in an old 36V Elec Trak lawn tractor using a modern Curtis Controller and PB-6 pot box to upgrade the wiring. So I'll be starting from scratch for the PB-6 to Curtis controller wiring. The other low and high voltage wiring seems simple in comparison. Just the mystery wiring from the pot box has me confused. It came with no diagram eh. The PB-6 is just a potentiometer. A pot has 3 lines; power, and two outputs. As you rotate the pot, one output voltage goes up and the other goes down. So, if you get them switched you just change them. Nothing will get damaged. You can test this on a bench with a voltmeter and a battery or power supply. Blue is the common. There is a separate micro switch which is not wired as far as I can see. On the Curtis PMC foot pedal pot box on Pg 5, Fig 4. I think maybe that was the colour of wire they had handy. Maybe I was having a 'seniors moment'.Thank You Again. In stainless case with calibrated lever.It tells the controller how much current is needed to be sent to the motor. The potbox's lever arm is attached to the existing accelerator cable. The box translates foot pressure into a variable resistance to let the controller know how fast you want to go. In addition there is a safety switch inside that helps prevent starting the EV with the gas pedal flooredBe the first to write a review. Please choose a different delivery location.Our payment security system encrypts your information during transmission. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Please try again.Please try again.Please try again later.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account Please try your search again later.To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Outputs are high resistance (virtual open circuit) when powered down. This device is best powered from a key-switched 12V supply such that it is only on when the vehicle is running. The output side simply has two output terminals with variable resistance across them. It has been tested successfully with Alltrax, Curtis, Kelly and controllers.Deltec Dilithium BMS Elcon Empro Shunts Enerdel EV West EVNetics Ferraz Shawmut First Technology GETRAG Gigavac Hella HPEVS InLogis KRC Power Steering Lokar Manzanita Modular EV MSD Ignition NetGain Motors Panasonic Quaife Quick Charge Power Rinehart Motion Sy. Samsung Scott Drive Sevcon Siemens Smart SSBC TBS Electronics Tesla Thunderstruck Tyco Kilovac Voltronix Xantrex ZEVA Zytek. We are currently experiencing shipping delays and higher than usual call volume. Read the latest COVID-19 Updates. Universal Applications.Club Car, DS, and Precedent are registered trademarks of Club Car, LLC a division of Ingersoll Rand. E-Z-GO, TXT, and RXV are Photos are representative. Actual item may vary. Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. 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Please enter a number less than or equal to 3. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. Login or Create an Account If you would like to make a purchase today, add items to your shopping cart. Exec Time: 0.178299 Seconds. Memory Usage: 8.616158 Megabytes. Login or Create an Account If you would like to make a purchase today, add items to your shopping cart. Exec Time: 0.16424 Seconds. Memory Usage: 8.415993 Megabytes. If you want NextDay, we can save the other items for later. Order by, and we can deliver your NextDay items by. You won’t get NextDay delivery on this order because your cart contains item(s) that aren’t “NextDay eligible”. In your cart, save the other item(s) for later in order to get NextDay delivery. Oops! There was a problem with saving your item(s) for later. You can go to cart and save for later there.SKU:ADIB006O0D6O2 About This Item We aim to show you accurate product information. Manufacturers,SKU:ADIB006O0D6O2 golf cart curtis potentiometer box with switch pb-6 Specifications Brand Parts Direct Customer Reviews Write a review Be the first to review this item. Ask a question Ask a question If you would like to share feedback with us about pricing, delivery or other customer service issues, please contact customer service directly. So if you find a current lower price from an online retailer on an identical, in-stock product, tell us and we'll match it. See more details at Online Price Match. Related Pages: Volleyball Accessories Golf Cart Seat Covers Golf Ball Markers Golf Accessories Streamlight Flashlights Electric Golf Carts Flag Football Flags Golf Bags All Rights Reserved. To ensure we are able to help you as best we can, please include your reference number: Feedback Thank you for signing up. You will receive an email shortly at: Here at Walmart.com, we are committed to protecting your privacy. Your email address will never be sold or distributed to a third party for any reason. If you need immediate assistance, please contact Customer Care. Thank you Your feedback helps us make Walmart shopping better for millions of customers. OK Thank you! Your feedback helps us make Walmart shopping better for millions of customers. Sorry. We’re having technical issues, but we’ll be back in a flash. Done. These controllers utilize power MOSFET technology, pioneered by Curtis PMC, to provide benefits unavailable with older speed control systems. The Curtis PMC models 1231C and 1221C are high power, heavy duty MOSFET electronic motor speed controllers which are ideal for use in electric commuter vehicles, light delivery trucks, and other vehicles utilizing up to 144 volts. For DC series wound electric motors Costs, heatsinking requirements and motor and battery losses are reduced. Simple mounting and wiring with push-on type connectors for control signals.The special linear design provides a smooth resistance from the initial switch through the final (1A) switch. A standard feature is the ball joint on the end of the slide provides a variety of mounting options. The unit can be used in applications where a resistance of 0 to 5000 or 5000 to 0 ohms is required. All Zillas require a Hairball in order to run. You can select options for your Hairball above if desired. The Zilla package also includes a three foot Cat-5 cable with ferrite to connect the Zilla and Hairball, a serial cable and adapter for connecting a laptop computer to the Hairball, a contactor snubber diode, shorting plug, two high voltage stickers and a Zilla screwdriver. The computer that you will need for setting Hairball settings must have a RS-232 serial port with a 9 pin connection. In case your computer is not appropriate or you just want a portable way to adjust settings, we sell an appropriate Palm Pilot handheld terminal in the accessories section. It is included in the Zilla package. This option enables the Hairball to use the HEPA throttle pedal which is sold separately in the Accessories section. The Hairball with the -P option installed must use a HEPA pedal for input, it can no longer be used with a normal pot box. Please see the HEPA pedal listing for important fitting information. This is normally used if you plan to use contactor sets (such as the SW202a which we sell in the Contactors section) to electrically reverse the motor(s). If you are planning on switching two motors in series parallel arrangement (this is used in dual motor race cars) then you also will want this option. The -A option adds functionality to the standard model and so enables for future expansion in case you are not sure of your final configuration. Unlike the -A option, the Sparrow option has been configured so that it can use reversing contactors that do not have built in microswitches for sensing contact position. This is good for vehicles like the Sparrow which are configured to use the Kilovac EV200 type contactors for reversing therefore it is better to use the -A option when possible. The -S option also has default settings that are reasonable for a Sparrow. Settings can be changed after setting the defaults. This can be combined with a -P option. If you do not have this pedal assembly, the -P option will not work and the -P option is required to use this pedal. The HEPA package includes 12 feet of cable with a connector for the pedal connection and the installation notes. Its open collector output provides four pulses per motor revolution at a 50 duty cycle as utilized by the Hairball. The MCxxxC is ZEVA’s third generation of DC motor controller, designed to be one of the best value, most reliable and easiest to use motor controllers available for electric vehicles. Featuring an extremely tough, weatherproof anodized aluminium housing, smooth throttle response, silent operation at all times, and the latest in power semiconductor devices to achieve an efficiency of over 99 at all times. The MCxxxC also supports an industry-standard CAN bus interface for optional remote monitoring of controller status and statistics, reprogramming of settings, and even throttle control over CAN bus. The MCxxxC is compatible with ZEVA’s EVMS Monitor for simple plug-and-play integration. A range of operating parameters are programmable over CAN bus, including battery and motor voltage and current limits, throttle ramp rates, throttle type, and motor idle functionality. The MCxxxC supports all common throttle types including 0-5V Hall Efffect, 2-wire 0-5kohm, and Hall Effect Pedal Assemblies.The ZEVA Smart Precharger is designed to offer a 2-stage soft start for motor controllers, limiting inrush current via a resistive circuit to charge up the internal capacitors before automatically closing the main contactor when the process is complete. It can also detect faults and safely discontinue precharge if it fails to start correctly (usually due to an external wiring fault or no battery voltage), or fails to complete within 5 seconds (usually due to unexpected loads after the main contactor). The precharger is available in three different resistances, to suit three different voltage ranges, as below. (Normally, select the lowest resistance that will work with your pack voltage.) 50ohm, recommended for 12-160V nominal battery packs 100ohm, recommended for 120-240V nominal battery packs 200ohm, recommended for 200-350V nominal battery packs. Most of all learning the technical aspects of the new SPM controller platforms capabilities and software tools makes this Alltrax’ powered Warp9 a Hot machine. Our blog provide wiring diagrams and standard electrical schematics. The Ins And Outs Of Vehicle And Trailer Wiring The wiring diagram opens in a pop-up modal box. If the pop-up blocker is turned on in your device, you are not able to download or read online the wiring diagram. The Ins And Outs Of Vehicle And Trailer Wiring Wiring diagrams show the connections to the controller, while line diagrams show circuits of the operation of the controller. I know that the popular solution is the Magura throttle. I don't really like the throttle actually, it seems to have a week spring (although you can wind the spring one more turn internally). It seems like it's a bit cheap, and it actually hits my handlebar controls. My bigger issue is that it is not sealed, and in Portland, rain is an issue, especially since it's exposed. So I have a PB6 lookalike, and the potentiometer inside is NOT 0-5k 3 wire. I think I can calibrate it internally on the Curtis, but I'm not sure I want to use a resistive throttle for permanent use. So I was looking around and people like Evnetics have a nice pot that is made for Throttle Position measurement in vehicles, and have adapted it for use in an EV. Then I started looking around and found a couple different hall effect drop-in replacements for a normal 16mm shaft potentiometer.So is everyone using a Magura? When I got mine it felt kind of cheap. It's mounted fully exposed to the elements as well.:D I'll cover it eventually. Mine has two ranges 0-5K ish and 5ish - 11ish, but of course I just use the lower range. It has two sets of two wires and a handy microswitch which I use for the regen. I think it's from an EZ-GO golf cart. Anyway, you didn't want to hear any of that, but I'm interested in your idea to replace the pot with a hall effect. Retains the stock look. The pot box is not as exposed to the elements, and it allowed me to keep the stock look, and right hand control module. So far I have not had any issues with it. But those Hall Effect sensors are not expensive; you might as well go for it. It's not the best made component, but it's been fine for me. I actually like the light spring. Very smooth response with my Alltrax. It did interfere with my right hand controls - I cut a section out of the control housing that let the Magura fit inside it. Why do you want to go with Hall effect instead of 0-5k pot. Are they less reliable (assuming they're sealed)? Are they less reliable (assuming they're sealed). Yeah, I got to say that my pot seems just fine, apart from some mechanical adjustment I need to make. The only reason I would consider changing is if it does suffer from environmental damage in any way. But that's yet to be seen. I know they'll work, so it's not a loss. The potbox I've got doesn't have a 5K pot in it, its got some weird wiring and a much larger resistance 360degree pot, but that's ok because I can configure the curtis for 0-5V throttle with 3 wires. But here's another thing I learned.So I can actually apply a variable brake (configurable for 2wire, 3wire, hall), so I might play with that some as well. Are they less reliable (assuming they're sealed).They're mechanical, and they can wear out and get dirty. Hall effect's don't do that and have a much smoother curve. I hate routing mechanical cables more, so I'm keeping the Magura. I know they'll work, so it's not a loss. But here's another thing I learned.So I can actually apply a variable brake (configurable for 2wire, 3wire, hall), so I might play with that some as well. My sigmadrive has a similar input for braking, which is why I bought two throttles. How do you plan on interfacing this with the rider. I was considering having two throttles, but perhaps having a NO push button wired in and mounted to my throttle. So I'd have to push a button, while twisting the throttle to apply the analog braking. That seems like the safest option, run to a pot box. If you are twisting the throttle to adjust regen, then your right hand is occupied and not on the front brake lever where it should be. I definitely agree that adjustable regen is the way to go. You really don't want rear wheel braking that's unpredictable, especially if it's wet. It is so intuitive, it's the best implementation of regen I've ever seen. It would require two cables and opposing springs to hold the throttle in the neutral point. But it might be done. It is so intuitive, it's the best implementation of regen I've ever seen. But it might be done. I like this idea a lot That seems like the safest option, run to a pot box. You really don't want rear wheel braking that's unpredictable, especially if it's wet.That is for throttle only, not gonna try and mix the two. Two completely separate systems. I was just thinking how I could actuate the brake, either through a handbrake on the left, via the choke and a brake switch.I wonder if they have 0-5V banjo bolt. While I imagine overly aggressive regen could cause concern it should be set up correctly in the controller to start with. I haven't played with the settings on mine yet, but it's quite comfortable and feels much like I would expect engine braking to feel. I don't find it at all unpredictable but in fact quite the opposite. My plan is to have the clutch lever interrupt regen to allow me to coast, just like pulling in the clutch would do. My intention is to have regen braking take the place of engine braking, and the conventional brakes do the same work as they were designed for. The more I've been riding though, I think I'd be grabbing that clutch way too often to coast, so I'm leaning now more towards activation of regen by the rear brake pedal before the pads grab. I want to keep the operation the same as on a gas bike, to avoid conflicting muscle-memory when switching between bikes. Either way I go, I expect I'll be mounting a potentiometer with a knob somewhere up on the fairing below the handlebars, where I can easily get to it to adjust regen strength, and dial in the responsiveness that I want, but not while braking. But lets keep this on topic guys, its not about regen, its about what you tie into Pot or Hall effect, and handlebar mounted, or potbox style.Clutch and my choke are on the left side, the ONLY thing on the right side is throttle and the original hydraulic front master cylinder. That is for throttle only, not gonna try and mix the two. Two completely separate systems. I was just thinking how I could actuate the brake, either through a handbrake on the left, via the choke and a brake switch.I wonder if they have 0-5V banjo bolt. got it. I got what you were saying mixed up with an idea I'd read somewhere else, where the throttle turns into the regen pot when the brakes are on. I don't like the idea of developing a habit of braking that doesn't involve my right hand always on the front brake. The quality is on par with the rest of the original controlls from my GSX-R. Helmet mounted RF proximity sensor, so the closer you tuck down to your tank, the faster you go - yeah, that's the ticket. It looked like a small organ, and played like a modern electronic keyboard (it played back sampled sound). Each track on the disk was recorded optically like the soundtrack on a motion picture, and was read by an optical sensor, then fed out as sound if the corresponding key was pressed. Swap disks and you were playing a whole new instrument. Anyhow, the volume control was also optical, it consisted of a sheet of film with slots of varying size printed in it. Press on the volume pedal, and it slid past the optical sensor to a position with larger slots, so it let in more light, increasing the volume. It was pretty simple, and pretty foolproof. Granted dust could affect it, but it cleaned easily, and the wear was on the edges, out of the path of the light - so at least in theory it's not as prone to wear issues as the wiper and contact surface in a traditional thin film pot. I've always thought it to be an interesting alternative to potentiometers for analog signal adjustment. I don't like the idea of developing a habit of braking that doesn't involve my right hand always on the front brake. Your right hand is always on the front brake. It's pretty easy to control the throttle and brake lever at the same time. That's something you do on any motorcycle. I don't mean to keep going on about this, but I was really blown away by how well it works. You have full control of throttle (go), regen, and both brakes without moving your hands from their normal position. And rolling the throttle backwards to engage regen just feels so natural. Whereas, pulling a clutch lever to engage regen would work, but it's as intuitive. I don't like it either, I think it is a cheap P.O.S. I would very interested in a better alternative. Something waterproof that accepts superbike grips would be just the ticket. I've seen throttles similar to Magura, but Hall effect, but quality also looks so-so. I've seen throttles similar to Magura, but Hall effect, but quality also looks so-so. I think those are the throttles I use for my ebike and my motorcycle. The pictures look like mine at least. I stole a full twist throttle off of an old electric scooter my grandpa had and it feels quite cheap, but dont have any issues with it. I use a half throttle for my ebike that I bought from ebikes.ca and I do like the feel of it. I also have a left hand half throttle that I plan to use for regen on my motorcycle, but I have hooked it up yet. So i guess all my throttles are hall-effect, but I have never paid attention to which one I programmed my kelly for. Hall effect is 3-pin and resistive is 2-pin right? You only need to use 2 of 3 for resistive, all 3 for Hall. Only difference is I use two of them. Right hand throttle is for accelerating of course, while the left hand throttle controls regen. Just to state the obvious, because the Magura is mounted on the left, its actuation is forward to increase regen. I agree the Maguras are not the nicest feeling, but don't know of any better electric grip throttle. As Dave said, it's all about personal choice, but I like having no clutch lever at all, brake and accelerator on right hand and left hand for regen only as much as I desire. (Or none at all if you don't want or need it for coasting or emergency situations.) They're putting 5V on one side of the pot, ground on the other, and as you vary the pot, it goes from 0-5V, so its a 0-5V pot. The Hall effect uses the same thing, 5V, and a signal output that varies from 0-5V. I think I may just use the throttle assembly I got, but I need a pot that is lower in ohms, the one inside it is 30kohms. The Curtis manual says between 1-10Kohms. Any reason this wouldn't work ok? I just had a look at the Curtis manual. It does say 1-10k even in the case where the pot is essentially varying 0-5V. It might work with 30k - in theory it should still vary from 0-5V, but they probably have a good reason to say 10k max. Is the pot in the box a normal size that you could just replace. That seems like the best thing to do. Or I might just build my own, just need to find a throttle wheel, because I don't feel like making one. Something that can just pop onto the original. That would just be a matter of adjusting where the cable attaches to it change the throw length. Or just get a PB6 and be done with it. I was just asking to see what people are using, to see if there are other options. I think I'm gonna replace the throttle with a Hall once I get it on the road see how it goes.Lots of car guys report they're pieces of crap and have a jerky start. The Sevcon controller adjustment is done by setting a 0 throttle voltage and a 100 throttle voltage between 0 and 5V. I have my zero set at 0V because I have some slack in the system that I need to sort out. It seems perfectly smooth though, I just need to remove the slack mechanically and then tweak the zero setting to be 0.2V or something appropriate. As for wearing out - well mine has lasted two days so far.:p I'd like to know about other options too - the Hall effect throttles that I linked to look pretty crappy. So what we need is a Hall effect throttle built into the grip, waterproof, well made, and small enough body that it doesn't get in the way of controls. Project! I'd like to know about other options too - the Hall effect throttles that I linked to look pretty crappy. So what we need is a Hall effect throttle built into the grip, waterproof, well made, and small enough body that it doesn't get in the way of controls. Project! Quantum Tunneling. Even sounds cooler:) Noah, I don't know if replacing the entire throttle assembly is economic though, I mean, why replace what you already have. Couldn't you just use the original assembly, and cable going to a box. I mean, yeah, we can talk all day about what we want, but if a manufacturer was going to build that for us, I'd expect them to charce an arm and a leg. Thanks for the link to that hall effect PB6 copy, that's the cheapest I've seen one like that, i forget where I saw them available. They tend to fail prematurely. Wiper gets dirty and you get uneven throttle response.