compur shutter repair manual
LINK 1 ENTER SITE >>> Download PDF
LINK 2 ENTER SITE >>> Download PDF
File Name:compur shutter repair manual.pdf
Size: 2894 KB
Type: PDF, ePub, eBook
Category: Book
Uploaded: 26 May 2019, 22:30 PM
Rating: 4.6/5 from 697 votes.
Status: AVAILABLE
Last checked: 9 Minutes ago!
In order to read or download compur shutter repair manual ebook, you need to create a FREE account.
eBook includes PDF, ePub and Kindle version
✔ Register a free 1 month Trial Account.
✔ Download as many books as you like (Personal use)
✔ Cancel the membership at any time if not satisfied.
✔ Join Over 80000 Happy Readers
compur shutter repair manualThis is the largest online collection of free service manuals that we know of. In the future, we will also have some original hardcopy books for sale. Also covers Bogen 400B Covers several models in the Prolight range. Covers 200mm f1.8, 600mm f4, and Extender 1.4x Covers 35-70mm f3.5-4.5, 35-105mm f3.5-4.5, and 70-210mm f4. For Rebel-X, Rebel-XS, EOS-500, and EOS-Kiss cameras. Covers models VI-T, VI-L, and P. Discover everything Scribd has to offer, including books and audiobooks from major publishers. Start Free Trial Cancel anytime. Report this Document Download Now Save Save Compur Shutter Repair Manual For Later 100 (28) 100 found this document useful (28 votes) 10K views 257 pages Compur Shutter Repair Manual Uploaded by xerxesdaphat Description: Repair manual for Compur leaf shutters (includes Synchro Compur) Full description Save Save Compur Shutter Repair Manual For Later 100 100 found this document useful, Mark this document as useful 0 0 found this document not useful, Mark this document as not useful Embed Share Print Download Now Jump to Page You are on page 1 of 257 Search inside document Browse Books Site Directory Site Language: English Change Language English Change Language. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. If its already posted please do forgive me. Click to expand. Click to expand. Click to expand. That lubricating section was new to me. I only glanced through it so far, but is there anywhere a description of somekind regarding those lubricants A and B?Click to expand. That french site has been around for quite a while but you never know.Ron GHe is hosting them on this page of his site (lower half of page). If you don't have a DJVU viewer you can get it here. Steve S.Wayback Machine and Google are my friends. He quickly patched his new site.Appreciate your input. GastonClick to expand. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.http://www.resortfrati.it/userfiles/dnw-7p-user-manual.xml
- Tags:
- compur shutter repair manual, compur shutter repair manual pdf, compur shutter service manual, synchro compur shutter repair manual, synchro-compur shutter repair manual pdf, compur rapid shutter repair manual, 1.0, compur shutter repair manual, compur shutter repair manual pdf, compur shutter service manual, synchro compur shutter repair manual, synchro-compur shutter repair manual pdf, compur rapid shutter repair manual.
If you have a Photrio account, please log in (and select 'stay logged in') to prevent recurrence of this notice.We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. Repair manual for Compur leaf shutters (includes Synchro Compur).We are a non-profit group that run this website to share documents. We need your help to maintenance this website. You can find instructions for removing the shutter here. Access to the shutter is always from the front first because there are components that must be removed from the mechanism plate before the mechanism plate can be separated from the shutter case. Failure to dismantle the shutter in this order will likely lead to damage. The front lens should first be unscrewed. Ideally, just use your fingers. This should be fine for a Retina IIa, and perhaps for a Retina Ia, but if the lens is too hard to shift, use a friction tool instead. Do not use pliers or any other similar tool. This should come loose with your fingers on a Retina IIa, but on a Retina Ia you might need to use a friction tool. This task is much easier if you use a screwdriver modified for the task, but the tips of a pair of stiff tweezers may work well enough. Turn the front plate of the shutter anti-clockwise to align the tabs with the notches in the centre of the shutter. At 10 o'clock you see the 'B' lever, and at 6 o'clock you can see the retard gear train. This screw also serves as the pivot for the M-X lever. The lever is a two-piece arrangement, held together with a very fine spring, and it is awkward to reassemble, so take care not to let it come apart, and if it does, take care not to lose the components. The central gear is fixed and is not removeable. This component is moulded from a styrene-type plastic and is quite fragile. It is also easily destroyed with solvents, and so must be removed before any cleaning with solvent is attempted.http://euro-logist.ru/userfiles/dnv-scat-training-manual.xml It is best to remove it once the three case screws at the back of the shutter are loosened later in the process. This one forms an alignment pin to prevents the shutter from rotating in the mount. Gently slide the outer case from the shutter. Remove the screw completely. There is a tiny black plastic insulating slug under the screw that may, or may not fall out. Take care not to lose it. If the flash contact assembly will lift out of the shutter now, then all well and good, otherwise leave it for the moment. The contact assembly is fairly delicate and easily broken. The case may be stuck, but a little poking and prodding with a screwdriver tip will free it. Keep in mind that delicate flash contact assembly. In case you were wondering why the retard gear train hasn't also been removed from the mechanism plate, this is for a very good reason. Getting the speed adjustments right is very awkward, involving moving the gear train slightly inwards or outwards at either end. Only rarely is there anything to be gained by removing the assembly for cleaning by itself. Cleaning can be acheived readily while it is still in place on the mechanism plate once the shutter has otherwise been disassembled. PLEASE title your thread wisely, so others searching for a certain make of camera or repair person can find your thread easily! A little more convenient to use than this version as it is all one PDF, but I had forgotten about this page (seen long ago). The price is right! And the manual is definitely worth having if you delve into Synchro Compurs, thanks for passing the link on. Regards Brett You can get the WinDJVU viewer here. He has a huge amount of other useful stuff on his site (see this index), including manuals for Compur Rapid and Prontor, and some well illustrated disassemblies. Steve. You may link to content on this site but you may not reproduce any of it in whole or part without written consent from its owner. Supplements. Nov. 1956 SPECIFICATIONS OF COMPUR SHUTTERS Size 00 and 0 Page 1 Designation Type No. Designation Type No. Dimensions in mms. diameter Dimensions are subject to alterations Designation Type No. Discontinued, with rare exceptions; has been replaced for serial production by type CN-1110-024 (see SPECIFICATIONS OF COMPUR SHUTTERS, Page 7). Discontinued, with rare exceptions; has been replaced for serial production by type CN-1110-034 and has additionally been extended to a wide-opening reflex type CN-1110-035 (see Specification, Page 5 and 7). 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80. This unique event that will create a one-of-a-kind family experience for you and your kids. You can choose to do your three laps back-to-back or spread them throughout the day between the fun activities and attractions in the festival. PLUS, we are also the ONLY obstacle race in the United States without any age, height or weight restrictions, so nobody is left out of the fun. There are tons of things to do for every age group in our massive inflatable festival as well. Whether you’re a toddler, child, preteen, or adult, there are a variety of fun inflatable attractions just for you. However, there’s a lot more to our festival than just inflatables.Get your kids off the couch and outdoors for an unforgettable day they’ll be talking about till we come back in 2020.There are tons of things to do for every age group in the largest inflatable festival in the world. There’s a lot more to our festival than just inflatables.The only 5K in the U.S. with 1 mile course you do three times You can choose to do your three laps back-to-back or spread them throughout the day between the fun activities and attractions in the festival. Do it at your own pace and on your own time.http://nahalsan.com/images/comprehensive-meta-analysis-manual-pdf.pdf You don’t even have to do all 3 laps if you don’t want to. Whether you’re a toddler, child, preteen, or adult, there is a variety of fun inflatable attractions just for you! Because of this, you are able to truly get a full day of family fun. You won’t have to pay a fee for picking up your items on Saturday. Because we now ship your items directly to you! We’ve got you covered. Insofar as the individual operating parts have special names, these will be found on pp. Therefore, make it a rule to exercise care. fig. 1. Opening the camera. Compur Shutter Compur Shutter with self-timer Continuous Shutter for variables Preset Rotary Shutter. Global Rolling Shutter vs. Global Shutter Shutter vs. Next was the front element fo the lens, using my trusted part of rubber tire it came of, the tubus also. The back element followed. Both lenses I cleaned with compressed air, a few spots I had to wipe careful with isopropanol or benzin (naphta). Cleaning all the parts so far removed, visual insprection, naphta bath. Than I put some acid free oil (I prefer Ballistol) with a q-tip on the I hate guys who put the screws seemingly with powerwrenches on the fine. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Can someone send me the pdf for synchro compur shutter repair on my sa 90? thanksShutter leaves just don't fall out, something must have happend to the shutter to cause it to fail.Any competant repair shop in your area should be able to fix it, but you might want to try these folks. There are 3 screws on the back of the shutter that came loose and allowed the leaves to fall out of their slots. I purchased a factory service manual from Craig Camera. It only contains IPB's and special disassembly, assembly, and adjustment specs for a given shutter. There are many varriations of each shutter type and size. Send it to a service center experenced in Compur shutters. My main sources are eBay and theSo I'm letting you all know that ifAnd the impossible? Well. usually that justWe can examine your shutter first and let you know the diagnosis before you send anyWe can return the shutter to you As a result, we cannot repair broken click-stops. But we can At this point,We've spent over five hours working on one shutter only toSometimes we can't do anything due to theWhen a shutterIf we can see that it's clearly beyond repair, we'll let youThen we'll let the shutter sit for a few days just to make sureWe aim to adjust shutters within theseSometimes it's possible It shows the actual We then test the speeds and if necessary. In doing so we can. At times, 1We're not set up forFor a list ofLet us know what you've got. We do not remove fungus or recoat lenses! This warranty does not cover any damagesWe make no otherWe will not be responsible for loss or consequential. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Create one here. Results 1 - 48 of 4645 Shop by Category Vintage ROLLEIFLEX TLR Camera Compur Rapid DRP DRGM Zeiss Shutter speeds all fire at, or quite close to where they should. However, there is no leather case or user manual included. Results 1 - 48 of 415 Shipped with USPS Priority Mail.Vintage ROLLEIFLEX TLR Camera Compur Rapid DRP DRGM Zeiss. The Compur service manual just says that this ring should be At twelve o'clock, there's the flash synch mechanism. Condition is. The Synchro-Compur shutter is timing well on all of the settings. Both the,,,, Creators are allowed to post content they produce to the platform, so long as they comply with our policies. United Kingdom. Company number 10637289. You will receive a photocopy of the original. There are about a dozen pages that are 2nd generation copies, therefore, they are not the best copies, but this is a very, very, usable manual—in fact, you will find it a real lifesaver on lens shutter repairs. To find out more, including how to control cookies, see here:Instead of spending the price I paid for the lens on a professional repair job, I decided to open it up and carefully see if this was something I could fix myself. As it turns out: I could, and I did. In today’s post, I describe the process and my lessons learnt. I took way too few pictures for this to become a repair guide, but I will give you some pointers for those that want to try this or other shutter repair jobs themselves. Figure 1 shows the horrific sight of a shutter that has 2 blades completely loose. When you shake the shutter you can hear them move around. Two blades have been dislodged and are now loose in the shutter. For Seiko shutters, unfortunately, there are not that many. Luckily, they are similar in design to the german Prontor and Compur shutters and the folks of the YouTube channel “Fix Old Cameras” have a video on one of those. The model shown in the video is actually more complex than the Seiko shutter I had on the table. The shown shutter has a self timer function and contains another set of gears. The space occupied by that gear train is empty in the Seiko shutter. Also, the Seiko has no T mode and is also missing the lever to hold the lens open for focusing. It had this originally, but that was removed by a professional when the shutter got its first CLA. A simple cleaning job wouldn’t fix the slow shutter problem I was having at that time, and the gear box controlling the shutter timings had to be replaced. The replacement did not support this lever, so it was removed. In the linked video a Copal shutter is opened up, but the general principles are similar across brands and models. Other useful references are this document on the anatomy of Seiko shutters, this thread on the rangefinder forums, and the Mamiya Seiko Parts Catalog provided by butkus. By removing the set screw, the fastening ring that is visible in Figure 1 can be removed. This ring pre-stresses the face plate, the silver shutter speed selector ring and black selector ring underneath to keep them into place. The latter one forms an assembly with the silver selector ring and they mesh together using a notch (see Figure 2, lower right). All three discs can be removed. Figure 2 shows the shutter with the the black selector ring still in place. The black selector plate is still visible. When the selector ring is rotated, the visible pins follow the slots and push gears into place. The black cocking ring in the center interfaces with a small gear that is connected to the gear box (hidden from view by a cover plate here, top right). On the top left, we see the release lever. If you flip the entire shutter upside down, three screws are visible that hold the aperture selector in place. After removing these, the ring can be taken off and four more screws become visible. By removing those, the entire assembly shown in Figure 3 can be lifted out of the housing. Each blade has a slot hole and a pivot hole that fit together with two pins. Figure 4 shows this geometry and how the blades are to be installed. With a little encouragement and several attempts to strain my patience, the blades are put in place. The housing is then replaced upside down, and the four mounting screws are tightened. This fixes the blades in place. It was this point, where a few pieces fell out inadvertently from the mechanism. Shown are the way the blades are installed and their layout. Each blade has a pivot and a slot hole. In Figure 5, I have already placed two other levers back into their right locations. A detailed view of the mechanism is depicted in Figure 6. The orientation of several levers and their pretensioning springs are included. The spring that pretensions the release lever has to be seated in a little cutout in the lever underneath and against the wall of the casing. The spring is, however, mounted on the underside of the lever, and can easily drop out. A pair of tweezers are essential to replace this assembly correctly, and you will need both hands to manipulate all the levers and springs, while holding the other one in place. I used one pair of tweezers to clamp the spring against the release lever, so that it would stay put until the assembly was placed correctly. Sometimes important details are hidden from view, but become clear from viewing the assembly under a different angle. If you think you have sufficient pictures, go ahead and take some more. Catalog them and keep them safe. They are not interchangeable. Do not force it, or you will run the risk of stripping the threads. Sometimes you need to play with it for a while, to find the best way of approaching the problem. Especially in placing parts back, it may be that only one sequence of manipulations works well. Something went wrong. View cart for details. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. Rolleiflex English, French, German. Note: the B35 and C35 cameras are identicalRepair instructions for the. C35 are therefore contained in the B35 section. Complete service andFully illustrated. Step-by-step instructions with detailedDetailed illustrated service and repair instructions with parts list,Note: page 36.07.030 was not providedDetailed service instructions with exploded views, lubricationDetailed service andF5.6 S-Planar, Zeiss 150mm F4 Sonnar, Zeiss 250mm F5.6 Sonnar, ZeissIt is assumed that the repairSome pages show augmentation in printingPhotographs with repairRolleiflex Repair Manual for TLR Camera Models, 2 Volume Set. Covers the 3.5F, 2.8F, E2 and E3 Series, Wide Angle and Tele-Rollei. Rollei T, Rolleicord VA and VB, Rollei 4x4 and the Rollei Magics II: General. Repair Data, 186 pages, English, French, German. VolumeRepair Data and Parts Listings, 290 pages, English, French, German. Each volume illustrated with exploded views and factory parts list.P35 Autofocus Projector Repair Manual:Shutters (1967). Published by Honeywell, U.S. importer for Rollei at that time. FullyIllustrations are almost identical to ourEquipment Technician Course -. Rolleiflex Cross-Coupler Exposure Meter (1974). Technical Training Division manual written by Larry Lyells. ThisEquipment Technician Course -. Rolleiflex Viewing and Focusing Systems (1974). The Rolleiflex Wind Mechanism (1973). Technical Training Division manual written by S.L. Love. This manualFor ordering information, go. He kindly gave us us permission to this share this on our website, we are grateful for that and this incredible resource, thank you Brett. Rolleicord V Sticking Slow Shutter Speeds—How To Fix It The Rolleicord V is my favourite Rolleicord model of all. I find it handles the best. I’ve worked on several examples of them. It’s not so hard to reach the shutter and escapement of one, (it will be the escapement that’s causing the slow speeds to stick). This guide was written in reference to the Rolleicord V model, but it’s equally relevant to the Va and Vb Rolleicords also. The general principles of how the speed escapement works apply to most Compur shutters. First, the knob for the cocking lever has to come off. Deft use of pliers, tweezers and screwdrivers is required to detach its round fastening nut—it’s a bit fiddly. Once you’ve peeled the leatherette back at the four corners and unscrewed the fastening ring for the PC terminal locking clip (use a small piece of rubber to avoid marking it) you can remove the fixing screw for the bayonet plate at each corner. The bayonet plate then slips up and off the viewing lens and it will clear the end of the cocking lever if you tease it up at 90 degrees and slide it along the slot. Then you may unscrew the front lens group if you haven’t already done that and bingo, there is the front of the shutter housing. The picture below is of a Rolleicord Vb but it’s the same process. Set the shutter speed to “B” (note the dot and dashes stamped on front denoting each speed) and, after removing the set screw, unscrew the retaining ring. If it’s your first time inside a Synchro Compur, taking plenty of reference photos as you go is a good idea. What you need to clean (the speed escapement) is not hard to access. But its end lever does need to be meshed back in correctly, on re-installation. You also need to note the mesh between the cocking rack teeth and the main spring pinion (as we’ll see further on) since the shutter might cock and fire OK, if you’re off a tooth, but will also misbehave. There are a number of other parts within, but these will not fly out at you when you take the front rings off. But they’re also not all that hard to inadvertently dislodge, and you may not realise you’ve done that until later when it won’t work correctly. Here’s the view of a Rolleicord VB shutter that’s nearly identical to the one fitted to a V. You’ll note the cocking ring circling the inner shutter diameter, and which of its teeth mates to its counterpart on the main spring pinion. Don’t worry; there are better diagrams from the manual further on than these images. Sometimes, these can actually be better than looking at the shutter. A digital bridge or compact camera with a decent macro mode can easily reveal details of tiny parts you or I might struggle to see with the naked eye. Below is a link to my Dropbox that will retrieve a copy of the factory Compur repair manual. This document is the official factory manual published by F. Deckel, but it’s an arcane document that offers few clues about it should be interpreted. Having pored over it for many hours I’ve got my head around it, so let me make it a bit easier for you. Deckel made many, many versions of the Compur shutter for all manner of 35mm, medium format, or large format cameras or their lenses: SLRs; rangefinders; TLRs; large format lens shutters; Hasselblad lenses; you name it. So first, you need to check the reference tables in Section 3, to work out exactly which mechanism is the one installed in the camera in question. You’ll find the Rolleicord V on page 41 of the pdf. The same shutter was used in the Va and earlier Vb models. Late Vbs dropped M sync and had X sync and self timer only, not MXV like previous ones. The basic shutter number is CN-1110-000. This is not completely identical externally to the item fitted to your Rolleicord V. The details of how the cocking ring is actuated and the levers for the shutter and aperture drive for starters, differ, but this is of little consequence. The actual shutter fitted would be special shutter number CS-1110-231a which is not illustrated, but that’s OK—the internals are the same. Hence if you need to refer to exploded diagrams of the Rolleicord V shutter internals, the plate numbers for CN-110-000-in Section 4 (beginning on page 50) are fine. To begin accessing the internals of the Cord V (after having unscrewed the front lens group, of course) you’d remove the small locking screw visible, which enables you to then unscrew the black securing ring with the three cut outs. This is what actually holds the front rings onto the shutter housing. The inner ring beneath it is pretty much identical (or identical) to what is in the V shutter. That ring couples to the speed control ring underneath it (partially visible above, with all the slots stamped out of it). Staying on the this diagram for a moment, the shutter ring with the printed speeds above is not needed on the Rolleicord V, obviously, as its speed control ring is driven via the external setting lever—hence, under those two initial rings, you’ll just find the cam ring. Getting back to page 50 of the manual, the external rings and actuating levers on the top image don’t look a lot like the V shutter, but the bottom image (shown below) shows the top view of the speed control cam, as it will appear with the retaining ring and the inner and outer front rings removed (minus the external setting levers for this particular camera, of course). The escapement works on a combination of inertia and retard (I.e. drag). At intermediate speeds the retard function (the pallet and star wheel that give you the familiar “bzzzzzzzz” as it runs off) is not engaged. However the escapement is still engaged and as the shutter releases it will freewheel (so to speak). I.e. it unwinds rapidly but the mass of the gear train still creates a smaller delay that provides the intermediate speeds. We’ll look at the escapement in a moment. The slots in the speed control ring (they’re a sort of profiled cam system) are what switch these in or out. If you take a look at the slot on the right of the image around the clock from about 1 to 4 o’clock this engages the escapement pins including the retard function. You’ll see a small flat around 4pm. This is for one second. Then it steps up again to. You’ll find a good image of it, complete, (part 300) at the top of page 54 (reproduced below). Its two retaining screws, 304, and 323, are the ones you’ll have to unfasten, to get it out for cleaning. But first, take some feeler gauge measurements of its installed position relative to the shutter housing, before you remove it. If you’re very lucky, when you re-install it you might get the speeds this way. But it’s very fussy about its precise location, so, odds are high that it will need to be finessed into correct position. It’s usually a little quicker than dropping it in and starting from scratch though. Unhelpfully, it’s illustrated 180 degrees about from the previous diagram, (note the curve of the plates, in the two images). You don’t want to strip it right down—so please don’t, as it’s not necessary, to clean and lube it, and if you do you most likely won’t get it correctly re-assembled. Parts 341 and 305 each have a sort of peg or pin sticking up and 319 has more of a tab also pointing in the same direction. These are some of the parts the slots in that speed control ring actually push in or out to give you the speeds. By now, this is all beginning to make sense, I hope. Parts 316 and 321 are of special importance. 316 is the last gear in the gear train and is driven by spring power (when engaged) via the small gear at the top. The larger, lower gear has teeth that have a different profile to all others. They don’t mesh with any gear. It’s the “star wheel”. These specially profiled teeth run against the edge of part number 321—the pallet. Of course, the amount of run off, and, hence, the time, is determined by what speed the control ring is set to, and where the control pins are positioned. The above gets to the heart of why a Compur may have sticking slow speeds. It’s quite likely the shutter blades may benefit from the removal of accumulated evaporated lubricant residue (which occurs as the liquid and solid components of greases separate or oils evaporate). I would always recommend swabbing clean the shutter and aperture blades, if you’ve gone to the trouble of opening up the front of the camera and shutter housing—but the slow speeds, specifically, will probably be malfunctioning because the escapement is stalling. Depending on how a particular camera has been used and stored, certainly, the ingress of excessive dust can contribute to an escapement sticking. But even a Rollei that’s never been used since manufacture 60-odd years ago, will probably misbehave today if not serviced. The original lubricants were either mineral based or organic, and by now they’ll be too deteriorated to keep the escapement running smoothly. The result is that stuttering sound many of us are familiar with, as the escapement spring does its best to drive the gears against the additional resistance created by accumulated debris and congealed lubricants, but stalls, because it’s not powerful enough (and is not meant to be). Once you’ve got the escapement out, cleaning it involves immersing it in a suitable solvent (I usually use lighter fluid, basically, naphtha) and manually operating it until it’s clean and runs off freely. Keep your wits about you as you clean it. The first time I cleaned one, I had it all back together in the shutter, and was feeling very pleased with myself until I found I’d lost the slow speeds. It turned out that, in the course of cleaning the escapement, I’d inadvertently dislodged spring 320, (which presses the pallet up against the star wheel) off its perch. It’s so small, I could barely see it (I didn’t have the repair manual and its diagrams, at that time). An hour later, I finally spotted it, re-set it, and got the escapement positioned again. Don’t do what I did. After cleaning the escapement, you’ll want to apply a speck of suitable oil to the shafts of the gears, where they run in the top and bottom plates, and also to the teeth of the star wheel. This should get the slow speeds running off like new again, at which point, you’re ready to reinstall the escapement into the shutter. Page 58 in the pdf shows the escapement installed back into the housing, ready for positioning (see image below). Understand that it is not just the location of the escapement relative to the inner or outer shutter housing that is critical. Proper alignment in all directions is critical to restoring the correct times. After years of working on various cameras with Compur shutters, I can tell by ear (duration, pitch etc) pretty well, whether one is good. Naturally, my ear is not as accurate as a modern electronic tester—but—accurate enough to get great results with transparency? Definitely.