commodore manual conversion
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commodore manual conversionWe recommend changing the clutch due to wear and tear. Included clutch is not part of warranty. For more information please message us through eBay. Please remember that if the part you are purchasing is not brand new, then it may have some minor marks or signs of wear but will be in good working order. A standard 2 day handling time applies from payment being received, however express dispatch can be arranged upon request. Local pick up is also available at 88 Wedge Street, Epping 3076 during business hours. About Us We ship anywhere in Australia at the buyers expense. If you have any queries or require further assistance feel free to contact us. All Items are available for local pick up in Epping, Victoria, 3076. Our trading hours are: Monday to Friday 8:30am-5:00pm Saturday 9:00am-1:00pm Payment We accept PayPal, credit card and direct bank deposit as payment. Please leave your username or invoice number as the reference. Our bank account information for direct deposit is: National Australia Bank BSB: 083 363 Account No: 196 772 693 Account Name: Toyrolla Spares A tax invoice is supplied with all purchases. Please allow at least two working days for your payment to clear if you are making a bank deposit. Payments without relevant information supplied with the payment will take longer to dispatch. Shipping Local pick up from Epping Victoria 3076 is available. You are welcome to make your own shipping arrangements. A standard two day handling time applies from payment being received, however express dispatch can be arranged upon request. Shipping charges are an additional cost on top of the item listed unless otherwise stated. Please send through your postcode so we can get you an accurate shipping quote. Shipping charges include postage and handling fees. A physical address and phone number must be supplied for shipping. We cannot ship to P.O Box numbers.http://classiccharters.com/pages/dimension-one-amore-bay-manual.xml
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Returns The image posted with this listing may not be the exact same part as you receive but all parts sold go through quality control so you can buy with confidence of receiving a quality part. We offer a 100 satisfaction guarantee on all the items we sell. If you are unhappy for any reason please contact us so we can rectify the situation for you. We leave positive feedback for all completed transactions with us. We would appreciate if you could do the same. All Rights Reserved Designed by InovexSolutions. Guards. Bonnets. Bumper bars. Headlights. Boot lids. Spoilers. Body kits. Alloy wheels. Tail lights. Seats. Steering wheels. Suspension. Exhaust systems. Transmissions. Starter motors. Alternators. Radiators. Buick and Ecotec, Series 1 and Series 2, Auto and Manual)(it will also bolt into all commodores from VB-VS if you are doing a particular engine conversion). Needs to be healthy, have the computer, pedals, shifter etc etc and preferably a heavy duty clutch show me what you’ve got Tags vs vt vx vy vz ls1 ls2 ve ss cammed swap sell trade d40 4x4 ba bf fg g6e turbo hsv grange wl wk etc wrx. In excellent condition.Without it fumes enter the cabin. Can post. lots of other commodore parts in my listings Just taken out of storage for photos. Has been nicely stored in sealed shed, ready for your next project. Getting hard to find. Happy to post at buyers expense. Buyer to verify fitment.Can post. lots of other commodore parts in my listings. Will fit VL if using a T5.Calais bumper bar. Calais guards. Calais tail lights. Leather seats. Auto. Sports suspension. Located in hoppers crossing. Can freight at buyers costs We are currently over stocked with the following parts and everything is getting sold very cheap so don’t miss out! Doors. AutoComplete pacemaker exhaust systemAlloy wheels. Ve guards lights bumper bar doors. Most parts available. Pick up from hoppers crossing. Can freight at buyers costs Cheap Cheap Cheap Commodore parts.http://docspaydocs.com/userfiles/dimension-one-spa-arena-manual.xml Advanced G'day ( Sign in to bid or buy) eBay Deals Coles on eBay Help Sell Watch List Expand Watch list Loading. Something went wrong. Speed Transmissions Manual Trans. Genuine OEM Conversion Kits Manu.User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. Cancel Thanks, we'll look into this. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. It is one of the bolts holding the bell housing to the motor. Then remove from the vehicle You will need to rotate the engine to access all of them. Positive Negative Signal Wire to the dash.It will unplug from the loom in the car and easily pull out. We put a little extra grease on it too. Once done up remove the clutch alignment tool. Now this is something people can do if they have never worked or have a limited knowledge of cars that the starter motor pops out to crank the engine and then pops back in. So even tho it looks like it won’t start the engine it will. Another thing we done is we pulled it out manually with our hands so it was sitting on the ring gear of the flywheel and do the bolts up. If you want you may test start it, warning the car will be very loud with no exhaust (VR’s will need to short the neutral safety switch) If you hear nothing, you either haven’t shorted the neutral safety or the starter isn’t connected. Another thing to remember is that u have disconnected the battery. Disconnect the battery again and prepare the gearbox by greasing up the input shaft and thrust bearing. Place the thrust bearing on the input shaft on the clutch fork. You may need to replace the clutch rubbers. Note F.pdf Make sure the manual gearbox mount is attached to the gearbox and is in 3rd gear. Now get the gearbox under the car in the trans tunnel, we dragged it on a bit of wood and had to angle it under. Offcourse this all depends on how high the car is, another option is to remove on of the back wheels for more room we done this on one of the cars to. With one person on either side of the gearbox lift it up and place the jack under it, just before the bell housing. Now you will need to work it out from hear, go up and forward as you get more room. Keep watch on the gear lever and the bell housing for room. Now that the input shaft is starting to go into the clutch u will need to rotate the crank to aligning the input shaft, this is the most annoying part as it seems to never be right and will take you a while. Once the gearbox slides in and goes flush with the engine do up the gearbox mount bolts with some lock tight and all the bell housing bolts. Get someone the pull the clutch off the ground inside the car while you try and hook the cable onto the fork, once it’s on place the cover over it. Now using the adjustment on the clutch on the gearbox do it up so that u are tightening it as far as it will go. Now tell the person in the cab to let go and give it a push. If it’s too high, loosen the adjuster and if it’s too low tighten it, should be just higher the brake pedal but not by much. We used dextron 75-85W gearbox oil if I remember right (heck up on that). To fill it we first used a pump that attaches to the top of the oil bottle but that was rubbish, second time round we used a funnel and a bit of hose. Guide the hose from the engine bay to the gearbox filler hole. Fill the gearbox up so that its starts to overflow, in other words flush with the filler hole. You can check by sticking your pinky in there, should be just under 2L. Make sure you start it in neutral and with your foot on the clutch. If it starts up fine, slowly release the clutch.http://piercaranti.com/images/commercial-manual-floor-sweeper.pdf If that goes fine put it into first and slowly release the clutch, make sure your rear wheels are clear from anything and the handbrake is off. If all goes well you’ve pretty much done all the under car work. Now onto electrical. I was gonna write one a while ago but i assumed there was already one plus im too lazy lol. Im assuming your doing it for strength and possibly better ratios. I've never personaly heard of anybody trying it Im assuming your doing it for strength and possibly better ratios. I've never personaly heard of anybody trying it. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I'm going to try and list things in order of how it helped me out: Install the clutch pedal before the 'big day', it is a fiddly and frustrating job, and does not negatively affect the performance of the car before the conversion is done. Jack the car up off the ground to give you enough room to slide the transmission out. This will also give you enough room to work. Even better if you have a hoist or high ramps. When removing the tailshaft, jack the back wheel up at the 'Y section' just under the spring support barely enough to enable the wheel to spin freely (if a single spinner). This will allow you to easily and safely rotate the tailshaft in order to remove the bolts. Make a booking for the exhaust shop the day after you expect to be finished. The exhaust hangers on the manual are completely different to the auto and will NOT fit. It should be safe to do a little driving with the exhaust not correctly suspended but obviously not a permanent solution. IMPORTANT: Place a small block of wood between the engine and the crossmember below it to prevent it crushing the power steering hose. Drain as much fluid as you can from the auto tranny by removing the tailshaft connection out of the gearbox itself after removing the tailshaft. When removing the gearbox, use the best jack you can (if you don't have a gearbox jack, but if you do, you probably don't need my advice) and a block of wood to support the gearbox. Make sure you have a friend (preferably two) helping you with this to make it much easier and safer. If you're weak, like me, make sure one of your friends helping you is strong and heavy enough to loosen bellhousing bolts. Position your oil pan under the front of the bellhousing before you finish removing it as the fluid will start draining quite rapidly from the torque converter When removing the torque converter, it is held on by three bolts but is quite heavy - I didn't have assistance, but it may be worth getting an extra set of hands to help you out with it. Before you can completely removing the transmission, there is a dust cover between the flexplate and the transmission. I think this is the converter plate. This will need to be unbolted from the transmission before the transmission can come out. To install the flywheel: The specifications on the genuine Holden bolts (Buy a new set - do NOT reuse the old ones!!!) are to tighten to 18 - 22 Nm, then turn an extra 80-90 degrees. This will stretch the bolts. Make sure you tighten them in a star pattern, just like what you do with your wheels. Take your time with this, it is very important that you do this right. Make sure there is no dust or grit, grease or anything on the crank or flywheel. The transmission itself was fairly easy to install, it slid pretty well straight in. Make sure you install the slave cylinder before you put it out of reach. Wiring loom stuff: Since I didn't have the manual wiring loom, and the connector plugs on the VY are different to my VX, as of this writing I don't have a working speedo and no reverse lights. This will be fixed ASAP of course. Anyway, to bypass the Neutral safety switch, there is a plug with 5 wires connecting to it. I'm not sure which ones are used for the reversing lights just yet. As far as I know, the speed sensor plug should be the same for identical models. To save frustration, when joining the slave cylinder to the master cylinder, undo the hydraulic line from the master, connect it to the flexible line from the slave cylinder, then connect it back to the master. The clutch in mine feels fantastic after we did several rounds of bleeding the line to get any air out. To reinstall the tailshaft - get it into position and have your friend help you get both ends into the gearbox and the diff, then bolt the middle section in first. This makes bolting the ends up much easier than trying to juggle the middle section. And since I'm exhausted, that's all I've really got for the moment. Feel free to ask questions or yell at me for doing it with no real prior experience. I had a friend help me out, as well as my dad (who hasn't really done much with cars for years but was still invaluable assistance). I started just after 6am (we had some issues so it took a little while to get started) and didn't finish until after 9pm due to problems with the wiring loom. I was a little more unprepared than I thought I would be. We also had to replace a couple of bolts which didn't come with my conversion package - specifically we had to buy nuts for the shifter mounting plate, and bolts with a 6mm thread for the shifter mounting bracket thingy, where it bolts to the chassis. The most time consuming parts were: Removing the bellhousing bolts for the automatic transmission - some of them were amazingly difficult to get leverage with, and you need lots of extensions to go along pretty much the entire length of the gearbox to get the top ones out. Installing the flywheel - don't rush this at all. Take it easy. Trying to find out how to fix the wiring loom to be able to start the car. That's all for now! I hope people find this information helpful and I'll try elaborate more on it over the coming week or so. I had managed to find a male molex - (close-ended pins) to a small female socket used for internal computer speakers. All we had to do was widen the molex end connectors to fit in the plug for the speed sensor on the gearbox itself, and then the other ends (which were folded up) were a straight fit into the auto speed sensor plug. We taped it all up to hold it all in place and insulate it, and that was it. The reversing lights were a bit more tedious as the plug on the gearbox is right near the top above the slave cylinder, and I didn't know if they were pins or sockets. They are pins - and we had to use female molex socket pins, and then crush them slightly to make them small enough to be a good fit. The hardest part was locating the pins in the gearbox connector as I couldn't see it, but eventually got it. I tried to take a photo with my phone (which helped clarify they were pins) but that didn't really help in locating them. To connect the auto wiring harness to this socket, we used some electrical wire with about 1cm tinned - I don't know the gauge of the wire, but it was about 1.5mm after tinning it. These were a good, snug fit into the auto connector. It was quite difficult to plug anything into the 7 pin auto connector, but once it gets past the initial entry point it goes in easily and is a firm fit. Then we taped it all up and tested the reverse lights - they were working. Obviously we had to take the car off stands to test the speedo but fortunately it's working fine. Anyway, in the image I've attached you can see the correct wire colours and stuff. (Edited 21-06-20 as the image was not available) Remove the panel below the steering wheel, and then just get yourself a 13mm ratchet or spanner, a bit of elbow grease, and undo the bolts which hold the brake pedal at the top of its bracket. There is a small piece of carpet trim hiding the grommet for the clutch pedal bolts in the firewall, it will pop out easily towards the inside of the car. The hardest part was the fact that removing and re-doing the nuts which hold the top brake bracket in place was a real pain, but I'm not particularly strong and if you get the right angle it's more time consuming rather than difficult. It's a really easy job when you can see how it all goes together Edit: it was at the firewall and at the top underneath the dash 7 bolts, to clarify check post 7 If you look at the pedal bracket, you can get a rough idea of where it will sit. There are two mounted on the firewall, which are hidden under a removable patch of carpet and a rubber grommet. There are two others which hold the bracket at the top for the brake pedal as well, these also need to be removed. Sorry, I'm a bit scatterbrained at the moment so I'm probably not being very clear. It is fairly easy to work out though. Just grab a torch and have a look around the footwell. I'm pretty sure on the VT you can just connect the manual ECU and away you go, or possibly just swap the memcal over if it doesn't work. I don't see any reason for you to actually need to swap the BCM. But since you've got the manual loom, I would suggest putting the extra time into installing as that way you've got a working complete automatic loom which you can probably get some money for. I don't know exactly how removing and reinstalling the loom goes since I haven't done it myself, but I would say it's something you really need to make sure you take your time with and be patient because I can't imagine that it would be particularly easy or fun. I'm 99 sure you would have to remove the dash to replace the wiring loom in there. Even if you don't have to, it would most likely turn out to be easier to do so. It can be tricky if you are going to do this yourself, the wiring loom and ECU will need to be cahnged also. Your far better off to get an auto from a VH, get it fully manualised and put it in. Very strong box and can handle an ass kicking! Please refer to CarGurus Terms of Use. Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. For a better experience, we recommend using another browser. Learn more Facebook Email or phone Password Forgotten account. All parts guaranteed and nationwide delivery is available. No1 Waikato Holden Specialist. Call 0800 Admirals, 0800 236472 or call inAll parts guaranteed. Nationwide delivery is available. Call 0800 Admirals, 0800 236472 or call in. Admirals Auto Spares Call 0800 Admirals, 0800 236472. Admirals Auto Spares Hamilton. All parts are Guaranteed. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Perfect for both a general. View full item description Everything you need! All company, product and service names used in this website are for identification purposes only. Use of these names, logos, and brands does not imply endorsement. I have a 02 VU SS ute, and want to know what's involved, what I'm lookin at cost wise, and what parts I need. Pretty generic question but am just curious. Would be easier to sell my ute, but I'm turning it into a one off so there's no chance of that happening Any help is appreciated, cheers in advance Fark thats alot:confused: I have a 02 VU SS ute, and want to know what's involved, what I'm lookin at cost wise, and what parts I need. Would be easier to sell my ute, but I'm turning it into a one off so there's no chance of that happening Any help is appreciated, cheers in advance This has been asked a few times.That way you're technically only up for labour to swap the stuff over. To list a few: Wiring looms. Gearbox Pedal box. cross members. PCM swap (for shift point cals etc) Just to list a few. That way you're technically only up for labour to swap the stuff over. To list a few: Wiring looms. Gearbox Pedal box. cross members. PCM swap (for shift point cals etc) Just to list a few.I have heard manuals are more expensive to do then autos but pft go for gold i say. I d say for every 3 manual conversions there would be one auto so get a price in mind for the auto and stick with it put it on ebay for 3g god luck mate If you want a manual, trade itin on one. It's alot less painful. The site may not work properly if you don't update your browser. If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit old reddit. Press J to jump to the feed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 3 VR commodore manual conversion Only issue I had was the manual spigot bush won’t fit in the auto engine. I got one to suit from Castlemaine. All rights reserved Back to top. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. After searching the web for good info on how to convert a VS auto to manual I found only a small amount of info. It does tell how to cut and add a wire here and loop a wire there but then goes on to the getting the mamcal retune etc which starts costing a few extra bucks on top of the parts bought for the conversion. I found that the GREGORY'S sevice book has all the wiring diagrams needed for the job to allow for the factory Manual computer to plug straight in to the Auto loom. The main problem people were having was car stalling at lights etc due to speedo sensor issues. When someone cuts and shuts the other way the signal is lost and the computer goes into limp mode. Then a mecal fix gives it the Idle revs info etc. Don't know if anyone is interested in this but there you have it. If anyone needs the full info on how to I'd be happy to ablige I have a 97 VS Clubby 5ltr Auto, got a T5 for it with a Manual ECU. I was told by they guy I bought the box off that the reverse set up hooks straight into the Auto Harness. But other people say no it doesn't? Also the T5 is out of a VP ute, so hope it will bolt up to the VS? I've been busy to say the least. The 5ltr is a slightly different setup but does have some requirements you need to consider. Should you need specifics I can get pics of mine as I'm about to pull it apart again for the fix I'm about to mension. Some people would to leave the lume and use the auto ECU and convert the memcal. The only issue is the different sensor setup from AUTO to T5. Though from memory I think I remeber that there is a difference with the V8's that might make it easier. It's not hard. The plugs are the same on auto and manual. Just the pin postions change for auto speed sensor or T5 speed sensor and disconecting the auto solenoid specific pins that tell the ECU about the gear change timing etc. Q:Are you converting all the parts from a VP ie tail shaft,lume,ecu, T5 etc and is the VP ute a V8. Tailshaft probably wont fit (unless the VS is a ute aswell) I'm not sure if the V8's had externally balanced cranks aswell. It would seem they do when you look at the V8 flywheels. Its a big warning to check out cause you'll need the flywheel to be mirror balanced to the flex plate FROM THE ENGINE IT CAME FROM OR get a flywheel (if available) through; MARKS CONVERSIONS they have a unique setup where they machine the flywheel out of billet steel to be neutral balanced and that the flex plate bolts to the flywheel so the flex plate from the same engine keeps the factory balancing. Their option is also billet steel and the same price but they dont use the flex plate other than to check that they are providing the right flywheel for the application. The owner of the company has gone to HUGE lengths to get the weight references of each model engine ie: early VN to VS-VT and so on. This is the option I think I will go for but I do still need to find out the total weight of the flywheel. (I'm guess their's will be around 10kg's). I have finally finished my conversion and have been driving it for about 5 months. The difference is fantastic. Better response and most of all heaps better economy.My biggest issue was the flywheel. with the 3.8ltr V6 they are externally balanced as previously mensioned and I couldn't find anyone who would mirror balance around newcastle (NSW AUSTRALIA). The only issue I still had to fix was an occasional stalling when coming down to idle at lights. Even though I used a manual ECU to try to avoid this issue. My guess is that the T5 has a speed sensor with the ratio in the box telling the computer it is a 3.4:1 diff ratio and I was still using a 3.08:1 diff ratio plus who knows what ratio the ECU is expecting to recieve. I still need to hook it up to my laptop to do the final recal (I installed an NVRAM so I will be able to tune and retune aswell as tuning on the fly basically giving me a built in dyno tuner but better as it allows real time tuning, but that's another story to tell if your interested) I have had drama's since though as the engine has developed a severe shake at 2000rpm. It was NOT square!! by about.1mm!!. That equates to alot at the outer circumference of the flywheel. To fix this issue I spent 3 !DAYS! filing the crank by hand and rechecking with micrometer to get it square.I'll leave it at that for now. Let me know if there's more you want to know or need to find out. Cheers Paul Good to have you along with us I have since swapped the VP t5 back to the guy for a VSSS T5 as he tried to fit this box to his VL but the SS box didn't match the Bell Housing, he must have given me the SS housing n tried to bolt the SST5 to VP housing so we just swapped boxes witch was a good idea, at least it's a VS Box same model as my car. My VS vibrates slightly as well with the auto at a certain RPM especially if I gun it, I thought maybe tail shaft uni stuffed but mechanic said its ok, then I thought it may be out of balance. I asked him about the crank balance, he said should be ok but I am suspicious about it and now u mentioned this in your reply makes me sure it's the crank, have been thinking that this is the drama for a while which is not cool!! I am yet to do the conversion, will catch up with the Mechanic and see how much experience he has with it. My VS liter meter says 10.5 to 11.1 to the k on highway, average around 450 500 to a tank of juice so with the conversion will be good! Cheers. After searching the web for good info on how to convert a VS auto to manual I found only a small amount of info. If anyone needs the full info on how to I'd be happy to ablige Only problem is i don't have a gregorys and you probably don't remember how u did it all them years ago haha We have a policy of actively enforcing our copyright. We do not permit automated access or crawling of this site without permission. Use of this site: Please treat the information on this site as purely speculative. We accept no responsibility for damage caused due to following a recommendation made on this site. It is your responsibility to check and verify any article with a qualified mechanic before undertaking work or following instructions. Please drive sensibly we do not endorse speeding or racing on the public highway or driving recklessly or in a manner than could endanger life or property. Save racing for the track and keep the roads safe.By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies, this may include third party cookies from our carefully selected advertising partners and for our analytics which allow us to see which pages are of interest and improve our site navigation and experience. You can disable cookies in your browser but this may affect your experience on this website. Going to be putting the manual box in the VP. Now im all good with most of the conversion, but im unsure about the wiring, will i have to change the whole looms over.Now im all good with most of the conversion, but im unsure about the wiring, will i have to change the whole looms over.Thanks should get away with just removing the shifter with the wiring and plug in your manual wiring.Get back to me asap if posible But its not listed on ebay anymore and was wondering what it was. Like an ecu or something. Cheers mate Alternatively, you can quickly login with Facebook. Username Required Valid Email Required Password Required Remember MeThere is no substitute for 40 years' experience.Thats why we guarantee quality and fitment of our parts. 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We will gladly refund any defective item and replace non-defective items within 30 days of your order along with original packing and an invoice. Please read our detailed terms and conditions. Need Help: At 'Rare Spares' we know what it takes to rebuild a classic car; it's more like a piece of automotive art. Please pop-in to your nearest store for excellent customer service and brilliant advice about parts and fitment. Handling up to 600lb-ft of torque and 600hp, the TKO offers strength without compromise; combining awesome power-handling abilities with crisp, positive shift characteristics. Add to that a deep overdrive for big savings at the pump and it’s easy to see how the TKO has become a legend in its own time! Please try again later.