99 ek auto to manual swap
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99 ek auto to manual swapFor a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. This list pertains to 96-00 Civics only. Its basically the same for 92-95 Civics, but different mounts are needed. Can be any D-Series SOHC tranny, and HAS to be hydraulic. Cable WILL NOT work. When you find a tranny, MAKE SURE the mainshaft has absolutely no play in it. If it has any kind of play whatsoever, dont buy it. It will have a bad input shaft bearing, and they are a pain to fix. The shafts are different lenghts between the autos and 5spds. I would bench test it before installing it to make sure it works. The auto ones are completely different than the 5spd ones. Either eBay them, or check online forums. If you end up getting your tranny out of a junkyard, usually they are still attached to the tranny. You can reuse the same rear t-bracket, and the actual mount that bolts to the frame on the tranny side. They are the same for both auto and 5spd. Shift Linkage - If the tranny dosenty come with any linkages, you'll need them. It connects the tranny to your shifter. They are usually not hard to find. Best place to find them is online forums. The speed sensor is a 3 wire plug, and is located on the top, back area of the transmission (above where the axles go in the tranny). The reverse sensor is a 2 wire plug (looks just like a o2 sensor plug), and is ontop of the tranny, about center of the tranny. Clutch Master Cylinder - Bolts to the firewall, to the side of the brake master cylinder. Can be had from either a parts store, online forum, or junkyard. Junkyard or forums will be your cheapest route. Im not sure if the 92-95 Civic ones are the same as the 96-00 Civics, so Id just look for a 96-00 one. And the best thing about buying it new, is that they usually have some kind of warranty. Agian, should be the same for all 92-00 Civics.http://nozhi-dick.ru/userfiles/deutz-allis-5230-service-manual.xml
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Clutch Lines - You'll need both the metal hard lines, and a soft rubber line. Best place to get them is a junkyard. Just make sure you get ALL the lines, from the clutch master cylinder, to the clutch slave cylinder. Make sure theyre not rusted tho. You dont want leaky clutch lines. Or you can make your own lines, out of metal brake lines. Usually if your getting a clutch pedal, the brake pedal is included. I got mine from a junkyard, but online forums are a good place to get them too. Ebay is a good place to find the clutch kit, and either junkyard or search online forums for the flywheel. You will also need 5spd flywheel bolts, as the auto ones are too short. Be sure to get 6 or so pressure plate bolts as well. Id suggest going that route for those. Just find any shift boot for a 96-00 Civic you like, and shifter for 92-00 Civic you like, and any shift knob for any 92-00 Civic you like. ECU - You'll need a new, 5spd ECU. If your car is 96-98, you'll need an OBD2a 5spd ECU. If your car is 99-00, you'll need a 5spd OBD2b ECU. For tranny fluid, you can either use regular 5w-30 (or whatever you prefer) motor oil, Honda has their own specific synthetic tranny fluid, or you can use Penziol SyncroMesh (its what I personally use, and it got rid of my 5th gear grind. Once you have your hole cut out, you'll need to cover it up (to keep out any unwanted heat, and dirt and whatnot). Sheet metal works great, along with JB Weld (or something similar) to 'weld' it to the floor. Axles are the same between auto and 5spd. Nothing needs to be done, suspension wise. Just remove the current ones from the tranny, and reinstall them once the trannys been replaced with the 5spd unit. Thats just a quick list off the top of my head. Agian, this list pertains to 96-00 Civics only as you need different rear T bracket and other mounts for 92-95 Civics. Hope this helps alot of you guys out. Ive done 2 5spd conversions, one of them including my own Civic.http://www.adishaktiyogacentre.com/UserFiles/deutz-allis-917h-manual.xml After the conversion, the car runs just as strong as it did when it was auto. You will have so much more control of your car after you do the conversion. If anyone has any questions, comments, ect, please feel free to ask, Im trying to help my fellow CC'ers here. Here is a very rough overview on how to do the swap. Again, this isnt a how-to, mearly a off the top of my head run through of it. Its really not all that hard to do it yourself. Grab a few friends, and go at it. If you have even SOME kind of mechanical skills, then your good. The hardest part, is the wiring. Unbolt the support brackets that connect the tranny to the bottom of the block Remove torque converter bolts Unbolt tranny, and remove. Remove auto flywheel, install 5spd flywheel with new bolts Install clutch and pressure plate. Install 5spd tranny. Remove old auto shifter assembly Cut windage tray from old auto shift cable. Drill holes for new shift linkage (holes are already marked, they just need to drilled out. Wire up reverse lights, and cross a few wires so the car thinks its in neutral the entire time so it can be started and key can be removed. Install new shift boot, and shift knob (shifter should be attached to linkage already). Replace interior. Rewire IACV if need be Replace auto ECu with 5spd unit. Start car up and drive away. IACV Repinning: Due to people PMing me (which I dont mind) asking for help with the IACV situation, here are links on how to repin the ECU harness for the 3 to 2 wire IACV conversion. 96-98 OBD2a: 99-00 OBD2b: You need directions to my place, or what? If you have a auto y7 and swap to a 5spd y7, it keeps the same manifold setup and IACV setup. Plus, this is only a parts list, not a How-To. It took us about a week of working on it after work sometimes til the wee hours of the night. It sounds like you covered it well. The only thing you left out though was bandaids and sheetrock mud to fix the holes from pissed off flying tools. I aquired a 95 gsr motor out of it but will never do it again. My advice is just trade the car for one thats already manual. It took us about a week of working on it after work sometimes til the wee hours of the night. My advice is just trade the car for one thats already manual.The only issue I ran into was a siezed tranny bolt. Once that came free, the rest was easy. Amazon and the Amazon logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc, or its affiliates. ZF has attributed most of these problems to software issues.Honda's older transmissions such as the Hondamatic semi-automatic transmission and its successors use traditional, individual gears on parallel axes like a manual transmission, with each gear ratio engaged by a separate hydraulic clutch pack. This design is also noteworthy because it preserves engine braking by eliminating a sprag between first and second gears.The Hondamatic incorporated a lockup function, which Honda called a third ratio, and had manual gear selection. The company's early transmissions also used a patented torque converter which used stator force to reduce hydraulic losses by using a reaction arm to increase the hydraulic pressure when the stator was stalled. The reaction arm acted directly on the regulator valve this meant that increased pressure was available to the clutch plates when torque multiplication was greatest. The stator was equipped with a sprag clutch enabling it to freewheel when required.This torque converter was nominally about 7in. It was initially announced in Europe as an automatic as the staff at Honda in Europe assumed that it would like the N600 to be fully automatic. This gearbox was a separate unit and used ATF - Automatic Transmission Fluid.Retrieved 18 December 2017. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Because it involves electricity, there is always the risk of damaging electronic devices, such as fuse boxes, ECU’s and sensors among other things.https://www.dermatina100.gr/images/99-dodge-durango-slt-owners-manual.pdf Hybrid Racing strongly urges the installer of this product to become familiar with wiring and common wiring procedures before attempting to install this product It serves no other function. It allows the engine, ECU, and the chassis to communicate together. Without it, the car will not function. You must have a charge harness installed or your car will not crank and run properly. To avoid using the wrong charge harness use the charge harness from the same chassis that your motor and engine harness came from. Install conversion harness and ECU under dash. Connect 4 wires from conversion harness. Plug in all connectors and secure everything on passenger side. Run conversion harness to driver side. Route Oxygen sensors. Setup Kpro. Connect battery and confirm charge harness is in place. Finished. Once all of these things are out of the way you should be staring at a Grommet on your firewall held in with two (2) 10 mm bolts. This is where your OEM engine harness entered the cabin. Once this is done you can reinstall your fuse box and battery tray. Pull back the carpet, kick panel, and remove the stock ECU. You should now have your K-series engine harness, the STOCK K-series ECU, STOCK OEM ECU connectors and the HR conversion harness ready to go. This should be a grey connector with 32 pins and is located next to a GREEN CONNECTOR. Go ahead and cut the zip ties holding them together and prepare to connect them to the A plug following the guide in the next step. Plug the white E plug connector from the Hybrid Racing harness into the ECU. You are now done on the passenger side. You can use the supplied zip ties to secure it nicely under the dash. Go ahead and push this connector inside your firewall and connect it to the HR conversion harness. Go ahead and secure the connectors with zip ties and move to the next step. Once the wires are in the engine bay, follow the instructions on the remaining pages to connect them (NOTE: You can also pull the large engine harness connector inside the cabin to clean things up. ) It is only necessary if you want to have the OEM sensor switch turn the fans on and off. If you would like to have KPRO, turn the fan on and based off a temperature you can skip the fan switch install steps. You can locate this connector on your OEM STOCK engine harness. You will need to cut and remove it. Make sure to leave at least 1in of wire to make your connections. Make sure to leave at least 1in of wire to make your connections. STEP19 Thanks for choosing HR! You can use one of the small holes already located in your chassis or if you can not find one you can drill a small hole on the top of the tunnel under the radio location. Drop the connector through the floor and plug it into your Oxygen sensor. This is often called the “primary o2 sensor” or “wideband o2 sensor.” Without it, you will have a CEL and will suffer from sluggish performance and terrible fuel economy. There are exceptions to this, like having the car tuned in open loop or running an aftermarket WB (innovative, AEM ect) sensor installed into the harness. You will need to source this connector from your OEM engine harness make sure to leave 2-3in of wire for you to make all of your connections. If you are using the Hondata KPRO you can disable this sensor and you do not need to connect it. If you are using a “SWAPECU-K,” this may not be necessary to connect either. Check to make sure the sensor has been disabled before continuing. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I'm wondering would it be easy to just change engine, gear box etc from the manual into the automatic.Has anyone done this or have a guide on how to do it? Thanks. Box,shafts, loom, clocks, linkages gear stick Box,shafts, loom, clocks, linkages gear stickEverything you would need would be on the other car. Your mount points should be the same for master cylinder, gear pedal, etc.I've done this on Nissans lots of times, its easier than you think. Especially since you already have an entire parts car sitting right there. I would recommend taking pictures of how it looks in the 97 and use this as a visual guide once you get into the actual swap on the 2000. This will help you to remember how things look and should be routed. Seems like a no brainer, but lots of people start projects like this and don't remember how to route things and then they struggle, get frustrated, and make mistakes. It will help you in the long run. Pedals Clutch master sylinder We also had to swap the interior and engine loom as we were putting a b series manual into a 1.5 auto. Hadnt noticed he plans to swap to a D so obviously the looms wont need swapped. To add a new vehicle, select the year, make, and model at left. Please try again.Please try again.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Full content visible, double tap to read brief content. Please try your search again later.Instruction is not included. Its light-weight, and high-heat transferring aluminum features a tube and fin design that, dramatically increases surface area that enables the heat to dissipate more efficiently. This Racing Radiator is at least 40 more efficient than stock ones. Most importantly, it has a much higher capacity for coolant than stock ones, which means that your cooling system will be more efficient and will be more resistant to temperature surges in racing applications. Package Included: 1 x Radiator Compatible with: 92-00 Honda Civic MT 93-97 Honda Del Sol MT 94-01 Acura Integra MT (HALF SIZE)Page 1 of 1 Start over Page 1 of 1 In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. lsngregg 3.0 out of 5 stars I have a 99 Integra LS with a 5 speed swap. I had to cut out some of the stock fan shroud to get it to clear the outlet hose. Also the stock fan doesn't exactly fit nicely against this radiator. I also had to drill a new hole for the top mount bracket. One of the radiator feet fits the stock location, but there was no other bottom mount bracket on my car. It is holding and working, but the radiator is sitting a little too high and the overflow tank hose is stretched a little too much.I was hoping for a clean swap from stock.It was packaged very well, double boxed and wrapped in bubble wrap. After removing my OEM leaky radiator this was very easy to install. I just took the rubber boots off my old radiator and transferred them over same with the fan. Everything fit as it should. Only issue is that the inlet and outlet on the radiator are a bit bigger than OEM. I just used some silicon lube and the slid right on no issues. It's been in my car for about a week now and I have had no issues! 100 satisfied. (1998 Honda Civic DX coupe)I replaced my upper and lower hose with those from a 98 integra ls and cut them slightly to fit. The hose clamps will need to be changed as well due to the slightly larger integra hoses needing to be clamped down on the engine side and the radiator side having larger hoses. The fan bolted right up and the welds seem top notch. Slight interference with the radiator overflow tank but what do you expect when going from a single core to a dual core radiator?I installed this radiator on my 1998 Honda Civic EX Coupe Manual transmission car and it fits as a direct replacement. The only issues that I have with this unit is the lower and upper mount are not exactly the right diameter and are a little small so that the rubber feet on the lower mounts don't fit snug so you may have to shim it up a little and ensure the upper mount is put on tight. Also the inlet and outlet fittings are a little bigger diameter than the stock OEM upper and lower radiator hoses so you have to stretch them to get it to fit. I have had it installed for a week and so far so good.Tight fit with old hoses.All the mounting holes and pegs were correctly positioned. This radiator is a bit lower at the top than the top of the plastic tank of the OEM radiator. The original top bracket still works, and the radiator is not moving much as the hoses keep it in place. I will make a new bracket that is straight rather than offset, which will make the installation a bit more solid and better looking. I replaced the radiator hoses with silicone hoses that stretched with a little effort to accommodate the 1.25-inch inlet and outlet diameter. A great value.The header I'm running wouldn't fit with a full size radiator so I went with this half sized one. Works great. All the people that gave this less than 5 stars, obviously don't know how to read english. It's for a manual transmission car, hence no place to attach transmission cooler lines. Great product and if you can tie your own shoes you'll be able to rig this up in just about any car.I boiled water, then boiled the ends of the hoses to soften them up to stretch them on the ends. After that, and some force, I got them to fit. Otherwise, the product works fine and looks nice.Haven't abused it yet but I think it will withstand it.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again. We apologize for this inconvenience and encourage you to visit www.motortrend.com for the latest on new cars, car reviews and news, concept cars and auto show coverage, awards and much more. MOTORTREND.COM Twenty years after Kirk and Spock had trouble with Tribbles, Picard and Ryker battled the Borg, and the entire franchise was reborn. The analogy is there. Really. Honda land's been slow lately. So what do you do when you want all eyes on you or you're just looking to haul some ass.Tim was among the first to install one in a sand rail, which means he was among the first to get one to run outside of the engine's OEM chassis. Of course, if you can get a J-series to work in a fabbed-from-scratch sand rail, then dropping a J35A4 into a '92 Civic should be easy. In part, due to the sand rail business's recent downturn, this is exactly what Tim, a 20-plus-year certified Honda mechanic, did. Heck, it's larger than a K-series. It's amazing that it even fits. The project began with modified Hasport mounts, which went through several revisions to get the drivetrain to its final positioning. In the end, ground clearance remains the same and, with the exception of the tachometer and speedometer, you'd swear Honda test-fitted this themselves at some point. Of course, that probably never happened, but it doesn't matter. API now offers everything you need for your own trouble-free V-6 engine swap as does Hasport, who offers power steering-compatible kits for Civic and Integra chassis. While none of them offer the horsepower-per-liter characteristics of some of the best B- or K-series engines, the J-series does offer one thing no Honda four-cylinder engine does--torque. And lots of it. To further the case for the V-6, there're simply a ton of them out there. Today, there are 13 different J35 engines and few of them are terribly expensive. You simply cannot argue with 240 hp combined with Honda reliability for less than a grand. There's bad news though and it has to do with the transmission. API's swap kit currently supports only the manual transmission. An automatic kit is coming since there're far more automatic transmissions out there, despite how weird it may seem at first to go from a manual trans to an automatic one. Nevertheless, dropping an automatic J35A into the wife's sedan is enough to reinvent grocery getting. It's smaller and doesn't have the displacement or torque of the 3.5-liter engines nor a coil-on-plug ignition. Despite that, there's a 240hp J30A4 that can be found in the '03-'05 Accord, which has the second best power-per-liter ratio of all. Of course, the '09 TL SH-AWD's J37A4 takes the cake here but one of those will likely require you to slang body parts on eBay. Clean and prep the area around the mount for welding. These can be found in various '99-'07 CL and TL chassis, including the Type S. There're plenty of these out there, with the Type S and newer engines being the next logical steps up. Like the older Accord's J30A1, pre-'00 engines have distributor ignitions. The good news is that the Type S' extra power comes from a different intake manifold, cylinder heads, and camshafts, all of which can swap over to any '98-'02 non-Type S J30A or J32A. The Type S' intake manifold is similar to the GS-R's, Prelude's, and NSX's dual-stage versions but isn't as important as the heads and cams. It's rated at 240 hp but that's on 87 octane. Oh, it also already has the Type S heads and intake but with a spacer that helps shift the torque curve down. Honda sold nearly one million of these vans during those three years so finding one is easy. Of course, this is the engine API used in its '92 Civic. First, there's the drive-by-wire throttle. Every '03-and-newer Accord and MDX has an electronic throttle as do all Odysseys, Pilots, and Ridgelines, beginning with '05, and the '04 and up TL. It'll work, but the donor engine's corresponding harness, ECU, and accelerator pedal must all be used. Reverting back to a non-drive-by-wire setup is an option, but this requires the appropriate throttle body, cable, and ECU, all of which costs more money. It goes without saying that these newer, drive-by-wire engines are more expensive, even from the junkyards. Along with the drive-by-wire throttle, Honda developed integrated exhaust manifolds for the newer J-series, which is basically one big exhaust port that hangs off the back of each head. Today, there are no downpipes offered for these applications since the catalytic converters bolt directly to the heads, but who knows what tomorrow will bring. Honda didn't begin producing these until '03 and, even once they did, they only account for roughly five percent of its total J-series transmission production. Have fun finding one. Both have six gears and are identical save for the Type S' mechanical limited-slip differential. But hunting for a Type S tranny won't seem all that bad when considering the amount of torque you'll be expecting your 2,600-pound Civic chassis to handle. It's no surprise that the plugs are different, but the J's engine harness will also most likely be from an automatic. And, of course, the newer ECUs all have immobilizers. First, sort out the ECU. To make things simple, get a non-drive-by-wire engine along with its matching ECU. Other ECUs can be used, but what does and doesn't work is still being sorted out. To avoid the immobilizer hassle, be sure to get the key and immobilizer ring with the ECU. The ECU doesn't need to match the engine, but the key and ECU do need to match one another. If obtaining an ECU with its matching key isn't an option, the ECU can be reprogrammed at most Honda dealerships. Simply bring in the title and most dealers will reprogram the ECU to match a new key. The immobilizer can then be wired appropriately and taped next to the ECU along with the key. You won't need to access these unless something goes wrong. It's easiest to use the donor engine's harness, but with vans made in Alabama, some Acuras and Accords in Ohio, and some random Japanese stuff thrown in just to make things complicated, there're many harnesses. Some route into the cabin where they connect to the ECU, and some terminate inside the engine compartment, sort of like the '92-'95 Civic. API used an '02-'03 automatic CL harness. If swapping a Type S engine, the Type S harness will be necessary to activate the multi-stage intake manifold. Unfortunately, the harness is loaded with stuff that the automatic transmission needs, so some labor is required to strip things away appropriately. Its power and sensor plugs terminate in the engine bay, while the ECU plugs route into the cabin--like the Civic. This allows API to leave all of the Civic stuff in place and simply wire in the V-6 engine harness. The harness needs power and must be grounded, and connections to the chassis harness need to be made as well as a few other odds and ends. You could sit down with a pair of service manuals for a couple of weeks, or you could call API, who's already figured it all out. API offers a race harness with a pair of power leads, aftermarket tachometer connections, and cooling fan and temperature sensor outputs. It's the same harness API uses on its sand rails but will also work for your Civic.Nearly a third of the wiring is taken out. It takes both the Civic's original harness and the CL's to make it all happen--not too much different than a K swap. Unfortunately, most ECUs are from automatics, which use different speed sensors than the manuals. Without the appropriate speed sensor input, VTEC won't work and, after running for a short time, will force the engine into limp mode. API has all of this figured out and modifies the harness so that the ECU can get the proper signal. Finally, if you buy the ECU and harness together from API, they'll also deactivate the ECU's immobilizer.API now offers axles that fit the '92-'00 Civic and '94-'01 Integra. They're good to 300 whp and work with the J's stock manual transmission intermediate shaft, so make sure you get that with your six-speed should you go the manual trans-route. And then there's the shifter. Similar to the H- and K-series swaps, the Js all use cable-operated shifter mechanisms. That means the appropriate cables and shifter box are required. Unlike the K swaps though, OEM Accord K-series shifter cables and shifter boxes work here. The tricky part is mounting all of this. The shifter box must be mounted underneath the car and sealed off. Only one of the original mounting bosses can be used. To make it all fit, API offers a mounting plate that securely fastens the box without modifying the console or anything else inside. It's so easy, even your old Civic shift knob will fit. An '03 four-cylinder Accord's shifter and cables are mounted from underneath with a custom mounting and sealing plate.The toughest part is removing the right-side transmission bracket from the frame rail. API started with a '92 VX hatchback, which doesn't have power steering. The API kit mounts the engine far back to take advantage of those missing power steering components. Don't worry though; Hasport's kit works with or without power steering. With the OEM bracket removed, the new API bracket bolts to the framerail's underside using the crash bracket holes as locators. API recommends welding the bracket's perimeter and painting it. The left-side and rear mounting locations don't change, but new brackets must be bolted into place to accommodate the new mounts. This comes at the expense of hood clearance but, with an engine this big, why hide it. The truth is that a hood hasn't yet been fitted simply because there won't be much left. The good news is that the J35A4 fits, easily, but it's tall. Some custom fabrication, a one-off hood, or even an intake manifold swap will prove to be the remedy. Simply move the radiator off to the left side to keep things cool--just like with a K swap--and reuse the original Civic hoses. The API-modified harness operates the fan and provides a signal to the factory temperature sensor just like you'd expect. Air conditioning has yet to be tested, but the fix might be as simple as using an Integra condenser, some custom lines, and a J-series compressor. Time will tell. Notice that the original ECU wiring is still there. Its rear manifold travels forward but makes a 180-degree turn to merge with the front one. API's Civic has OEM-style, Comptech headers that merge into a 2.5-inch catalytic converter where it meets up with a resonator and a small muffler. This makes for all kinds of great noises and is probably enough flow for the low-revving J35A4. Despite that, some additional ponies could likely be found with real headers that eliminate that silly 180-degree bend. To compensate, Eibach produced a set of springs for the front that turned out to be a great match. Turn-in is sharp with no noticeable plowing. New springs for the added weight are a must for this swap. The work is really no more difficult than with any other Civic swap, but perhaps with so many good four-cylinder Honda engines, no one bothered looking to the V-6. The truth is that the J-series is an excellent engine that Honda put a great deal of engineering into. It is not a high-rpm, high-horsepower screamer, but judging from the dyno test, there's massive potential here. Plus, once you drive a car with this much torque, four may never again be enough. With custom front springs from Eibach to compensate for the added weight, distribution measures in at 65 percent up front but nearly perfect from side to side. The best part: It weights less than 2,300 pounds without a driver.