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1084s monitor manual

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1084s monitor manualWhile the 1084 only plays mono, the model Commodore 1084S can also play stereo. On the left side there is stereo socket (3,5 mm) for the headphone connection.BRIGHTNESS - brightness. CONTRAST - contrast. COLOR - colour saturation (not, when connected to RGB). SHARPNESS - sharpness (not, when connected to RGB). VOLUME - volumeWhen connection a tuner, this button should not be pressed. V.CENTERING - vertical alignment. V.WIDTH - picture widthLine frequency: 15625 Hz. Sound output performance: 1 W - distortion factor 5. Power drain: 75 W. Dimensions (H x W x D): 320 x 350 x 387 mm. Weight: 11 kgContent is available under GFDL unless otherwise noted. Privacy policy About C64-Wiki Disclaimers Mobile view. Something went wrong. View cart for details. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. This manual is for the version of the monitor that has the squared-off front control area. I think this is known as the 1084S-P. (I don't have the monitor so am not sure. Looked up info here:. umber.html. Thanks, --Kent. Welcome to Amibay.com. This site uses cookies to keep you logged into the site, as well as improving your experience using the site. By continuing to use this website you are agreeing to allow us to use cookies. You can find out more, including how to opt out of using cookies on this website, by reading our full cookie policy. To start viewing messages,If you have any questions please login and post them in the Feed Back forum, or use the Contact Us form.Or resetting your password. If this doesn't help, please contact us for help using the contact us page. Cheers Adam Positive feedback left. Please do not offer the downloaded file for sell only use it for personal usage. Looking for other manual? For this no need registration. May be help you to repair. You could suffer a fatal electrical shock. Instead, contact your nearest service center. Note!http://hafsasamac.com/stock/datamax-m-class-parts-manual.xml

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To open downloaded files you need acrobat reader or similar pdf reader program. In addition, Also some files are djvu so you need djvu viewer to open them. These free programs can be found on this page: needed progs If you use opera you have to disable opera turbo function to download file. If you cannot download this file, try it with CHROME or FIREFOX browser. Translate this page: Relevant MONITOR forum topics: Commodore 1802D CRT video monitor hang problema. (megoldva) Sziasztok! Egy retro 1988-as commodore 1802D-es szines CRT video monitor javitasaban kernek segitseget. Mikor hozzam kerult, ket problemaval szembesultem. Az elso, hogy nem voltak szinek. Csak fekete feher kep. A neten kutakodva szerencsere talaltam ra egyszeru megoldast. Ez most jo lett. A masik problemara meg nem talaltam megoldast. Van beepitett hangszoroja. Az audio bemenet RCA aljzatara barmit is kapcsolok ra, nem szol. Egy 10 labu ic felelos az erositesert. Kideritettem, hogy nem kapja meg a 12v-os feszt. Az IC a D807-es EU1-es diodan es az R830-as Kimertem, hogy ez a dioda romlott el. Sajnos ezt a fajta diodat mar nem lehet beszerezni. Ajanlottak helyette a HER105-os diodat. Diodat beforrasztottam, majd bekapcsoltam a monitort tesztelesre. Az R830-as 1o1w ellenallas elkezdett fustolni, majd abbamaradt. Ezek utan a monitor nem adott kepet, nem kapcsolt be. Kiforrasztva a diodat, ismet bekapcsolt, es adott kepet. A diodat az eset utan megmerve mukodokepesnek talaltam, nem lett baja. Az ellenallas termeszetesen tonkre ment. Meg egyszer megprobaltam a biztonsag kedveert egy masik HER105-os diodaval, es egy nagyobb 1ohm 2wattos ellenallassal, de az eredmeny ugyanaz volt. Most megakadtam, es nem tudom hogyan tovabb. A service manual hiba levezetos reszet hasznaltam kiindulasi pontnak, de ott is ugyanezt javasoltak a dioda es ellenallas cserejet ha nem kap feszultseget az audio IC. Ezen a linken lehet megnezni a monitor service manualt.A fent emlitett monitort szeretnem szamitogephez hasznalni.http://glamweddingdesign.com/userfiles/datamax-m-class-mark-ii-service-manual.xmlAz interneten talaltam leirast,hogy a videokartya mely kivezeteseit kell a monitor hatuljan talalhato 8 polusu DIN dugohoz csatlakoztatni. A kovetkezo bekotest hasznaltam:Segitsegeteket elore is koszonom. Udv.:bogyoYou can write in English language into the forum (not only in Hungarian). There is a short somewhere on the main board that is causing the power supply to go into protection and emit a high-pitched whine.I've removed and tested all the obvious diodes near the flyback. When in situ, all three pins of the new output transistor show continuity, however when removed from the board it tests normally. I have cleaned all the residue I could off the board and checked for obvious shorts, etc.Does anyone have any experience with these and can give me some ideas to try?I did disconnect the yoke and the the CRT board from the main board to try and isolate the problem.It's been over 15 years since it last powered up but the 1084S is now back and running. It looks amazing with the C128 I picked up a few weeks ago.For sure the new HOT I installed was shorting out against the heatsink plate. Once I identified that issue everything fell into place.I don't believe the original HOT had a metal backing so it may not have had an insulator originally. Like I said, I know thing about repairing electronics. Something went wrong.Get the item you ordered or your money back.User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended. This item may be a floor model or an item that has been returned to the seller after a period of use. See the seller’s listing for full details and description of any imperfections. We may receive commission if your application for credit is successful. All Rights Reserved. That should keep you occupied for a bit - get searching! Please quote this reference ID in any communication with the Centre for Computing History. These children deserve a space which is engaging and instructive, where they can feel a sense of adventure, exploration and surprise. The site may not work properly if you don't update your browser. If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit old reddit. Press J to jump to the feed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 3 Commodore 1084S-D monitor best inputs? If a VGA plug fits into that port I can cut it up and wire it to S-Video no problem - would just need to know the pinout (as that seems to be way more than 4? wires S-Video usually has). Thanks - going to see this in a couple hours so hopefully somebody answers. Thanks for the link. OR (and much easier yet), know of anyplace which makes these with BNC connectors (or something else I could more easily plug into like RCA)? - I've never made my own cables like this before so it's a bit daunting. You can definitely hook up RGB to this monitor. That connection is a 9-pin d-sub connection which was commonly used before VGA became standard (d-sub 15). If you look at the manual to this monitor on page 9 you will find the pin assignments of the RGB analogue signal. Luckily its analog RGB and accepts the same signals you can find on a SCART output.http://mohanitea.com/images/1064---you-have-an-error-in-your-sql-syntax-check-the-manual-that-cor.pdf You'll need to make a custom cable wiring SCART pinouts of Red, Green, Blue, C-Sync, and ground to a DB-9 connector following the diagram in the manual. These little sets have 600 lines, I highly recommend getting them wired for RGB. They are damn close to a PVM in image quality. All rights reserved Back to top. VERY GOOD VISUAL CONDITION FOR ITS AGE TESTED AND FULLY WORKING Commodore 1084S-D2 Monitor is clean and works very well. It has some age and wear related signs and colour imperfections but it is not yellowed and nothing is broken or scratched. It was stored in room temperature all the time and used from time to time. It is fully functional - the picture is very clear and bright, sound is very clear and loud. Power Switch works well. The front cover works well, too. It has to be mentioned that both plastic knobs were replaced with metal ones and the front flap is still fully operational - front cover was not modified - just those two knobs on the monitor case. All cables are included to connect this monitor to Amiga 500, 500 Plus, 600, 1200 and others with DB23 Video Socket. This set is sold as is. It will be very well protected to avoid damage. No returns. Postage to EU countries is EUR 35.00Other European destinations EUR 39.00 You are the light of the world. To start viewing messages,Works with ALL Amiga Computers. Tested in Excellent Condition and Works Great. Will try to double box when shipping. Sorry, but International shipping is not offered for this at this time. Payment by Paypal preferred. Contact: By email City: Memphis, TN Country: USA. I need to change all potentiometers which are located in the rear part. Someone knows the values and type? Thank you.Q401 Q701 Q702 Q703 Q704 R435 R436 R437 i need the colour bars on the resistors.and whats written on the transistors.if your unsure about the resistors could you take a high res picture in close up of them in good light please.Thanks for the information of the potentiometers. On Thursday or Friday I will send you pictures of what you need.If I do not get the appropriate potentiometers, I invent something to solve it. Thanks for your interest. FranCheck if it is the same model.Tomorrow I seek information.I understood his clarification about the manual, thanks. Excuse my English is basic. But now I wonder, I am not sure if my monitor has a TTL RGB input!But now I wonder, I am not sure if my monitor has a TTL RGB input! Roy, Look at my image This nice, no.What kind of switch is. The original is completely destroyed and not working. This is a full picture of the motherboard to give you an idea of the differences. Has been tested and working. Condition: C - Used; see pictures. For sale is the exact item pictured. The estimated times may take longer during holidays. Return requests must be opened within 7 Days after the receipt of the item. We accept best offers that are close to the listed value and will not accept best offers greatly lower. This item can be shipped to Canada, United States. Advanced G'day ( Sign in to bid or buy) eBay Deals Coles on eBay Help Sell Watch List Expand Watch list Loading. Amiga Vintage Computers and Main. Amiga Vintage Computing Manuals. Commodore Vintage Computers and.User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. Ports: DB23 connector (with an average DB25 on the Amiga side) DIN6 port (to connect to the side to the monitor) Product Features Hardware suited for. E-mail address: Password: Forgot your password. Individual Comp. Insane Software IrixLabs Logoshirt Lotharek MNP Poly.play Rastport Retro 7-bit Retrocables Retronics Runsoft Skriptorium Ver. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Check out our 20th Anniversary Mugs, Classic Logo Shirts and much more. Discussion here. So the unit was taken apart for some initial diagnostics. Fortunately I was able to find a schematic on-line which has been very helpful so far. The switch-mode supply was dead - no output voltage on the secondary side, though I could measure 330V at the main filter cap (C109) on the primary side (after the rectifier), so there had to be a fault somewhere in the switching power supply section. After a quick poke around with the multimeter, I found an open resistor (R111 - which should be 100k and measured open circuit both in and out of the board). Using my home made high voltage probe (worklog here ) I was able to measure approx 23.8kV at the high voltage output on the flyback transformer though, which is in spec: The horizontal output transistor (HOT) and control circuitry must be doing its job, switching the HOT on and off to produce the high voltage output at the flyback, however, there should also be a secondary high voltage output from the flyback which goes off to the board on the neck of the monitor for the focus (around 8kV I think), and it seems that this is missing altogether - I'm measuring 0 volts. This is the flyback transformer - the large red wire is the high voltage output (24kV), and the white wire is the focus output that goes off to the board on the neck of the monitor. So at this stage it's looking like either the flyback has an internal fault with the voltage divider for the focus output, else the connector on the neck board (if that's what you call it!) is faulty. This is where the focus wire runs into the neck connector that plugs into the rear of the picture tube: I think I'll see if I can take that connector apart so as I can see if there is wiring fault inside - it is possible that the focus output voltage is present, but with a poor (no) connection to the board. It could also be a fault with the pots on the flyback, so I'll have a look at them as well.I would probably fry myself looking inside a CRT.I would probably fry myself looking inside a CRT. Click to expand. I will likely shorten the probe tip a little. The probe has been very handy so far though - only finished putting it together this morning. I'm using an isolation transformer as well, which makes the whole thing a little safer on the AC mains side of things. Ok - I removed the neck connector (not sure what it's called) from the neck board and popped open the top cover. Solder connection of the focus wire is sound, but I buzzed the connector out, and it doesn't seem to go anywhere. Ie, there may be an internal fault inside the connector - the focus wire goes in, but doesn't seem to come out on any of the pcb connector pins. I tested the output from the flyback though - around 6.1kV present which sounds about right (it's adjustable on the flyback transformer as one of the pots, though appears to be glued in position). So that is good news. So, it is entirely possible that this could be the one remaining issue with the monitor - a faulty board connector. I assume you can buy these things somewhere, but I might see if I can open it up further (there are 4 rivets holding it together) and see if I can fix it at least temporarily so as I can further troubleshoot the monitor. I need to hunt down a power switch as well - awkward having to hold the switch in while testing.I was expecting the focus high voltage output to come out on one of the PCB pins, but it doesn't - it goes straight to the tube - which makes perfect sense now - doh. There is some over-voltage protection built in - on the left side (the top section) you can see the round disc with the pointy tip in the center - the incoming focus high voltage wire is on the back of that disc, and would arc to the ground loop wire on the lower half of the connector housing if the voltage was too high (when assembled there is a (precisely engineered) gap between the two) - cool Ok - so my fault is elsewhere, and I've got to work out how to clamp this thing back together. Cable ties to the rescue.In circuit (soldered back in) I'm measuring only 30 odd volts at the pin on the neck connector. There is just a cap to ground there (C513) which I need to check. I also checked the low voltage (15V) output from the flyback transformer - checks out ok at 15.5V. I'm fairly confident the flyback transformer is ok but I do need to confirm the focus and screen voltages are where they should be. That's enough for today - I'll carry on with this during the week.I'm sorry that it died further on your bench but then again who else in the world could fix it but you. I have my trusty 1084S here that is basically compulsary and in daily use - it drives my Apple IIgs with a custom cable. It is going just fine (P1) model but I guess a day will come when it too will need some TLC. Keep up the good work.Forum member xga offered me a power switch, so that should arrive in a day or two (thanks again xga!) and I will install it. I hope to spend some time this evening on it - probably checking some of the other smaller voltage regulators on the board (there is a 12v rail and also a 5v rail generated from the 15v flyback output), and generally probing around the board.Click to expand. Very much appreciated. The screen grid (or accelerating anode(s)) actually uses a positive voltage to pull the electrons along. The rest of that article can be read here - I found it a handy refresher on how CRT's work. Essentially, without a healthy screen voltage, I wouldn't likely see a raster. That voltage could have only been dropped across 2 components - the monitor screen grid itself (which would have been an internal fault in the picture tube), or the capacitor to ground (more likely). To test, I initially removed the neck board from the tube, powered it up and took a reading - 30V. Aha - it had to be a faulty capacitor with a near short to ground. So, I removed the capacitor in question - a 10nF 1000V part: I didn't have another, so left it out and fired it up. I measured the Screen voltage at 222V both on and off the tube (I'd been dicking around with the pots on the flyback so the voltage was less than previously measured). Much more healthy! So I cranked the brightness up and checked for a raster.We now have a raster. Alrighty, good progress, but there could still be many issues. Time to test with a video signal though and troubleshoot from there. What better test source than the C64 Plugged it in - nothing. Wait - there are a bunch of switches on the back of the monitor for the composite input - click. Woohoo! Success I'm very pleased that I built that high voltage probe - I would have struggled to test anything properly without it - testing the flyback was what led me to the Screen voltage issue and there's no way I would have been testing the flyback without the probe. I'm looking forward to receiving the replacement power switch from xga and then I'll tweak the picture for the best image I can get - I will now of course order and install the replacement cap for the neck board, but I may also start re-capping the rest of the board (there are a lot of caps on there!). I'll be sure to post pics of the new switch going in, as I may have to modify it slightly to fit it to this monitor. Another retro item saved from the scrap heap though - thanks to Jeremy for not throwing it out!Mine makes a high pitched whine, louder when there's no signal going to it. I put it down to the 15khz horizontal sync frequency. I've heard this could be a vibrating component but buggered if I could find it.Click to expand. Even just educationally, fixing old electronics is something not enough people attempt (even on safer, low voltage stuff).Excellent work.Mine makes a high pitched whine, louder when there's no signal going to it. I've heard this could be a vibrating component but buggered if I could find it. Click to expand. I'll start with the PSU section and work out from there. I will also now be able to make up an RGB cable for the C64 - initial testing was via composite. I contacted Jon about the cable (among many others things!) and he replied with links to parts to purchase at Jaycar (a local electronics enthusiasts store) and then a pin out guide. This monitor can be wired for true CGA colour representation, the Commodore 128 and many more. An example is the “Check startup device” message from the IIgs which has a fast Apple logo scrolling horizontally from left to right on the screen. The 1084S provided the first time I’d ever seen it move rapidly back in forth smoothly and sharply without any shuddering, ghosting, trails etc. Seeing is believing. Click here for the PDF version I have reviwed the excellent Wikipedia article on D-subminiature and can see DB-9 should be DE-9. Notify me of new posts via email. To find out more, including how to control cookies, see here. The monitor is over 20 years old after all, so that was to be expected. Since then strange lines would appear on the screen for a few minutes after power up. All parts and tools were placed against the wall away from my work area ( the floor ) to create a safe working environment and prevent injury or damage to any components. I don’t have a large enough work bench so this was the best I could do with what I have. See my previous repair log for information on discharging CRTs. There is a link to a video by John’s Arcade which takes you through all the necessary steps to safely discharge it. Please do not do this if you are not confident or competent. You can get a nasty shock! Wait 10-15 minutes and repeat the discharging process to be safe or you can allow the flat-head screwdriver to maintain contact with the anode cap terminals and walk away for 15 minutes and do something else for awhile, like make a cup of tea or coffee. I measured 130vdc across the cap at 2451. The BU508A is also suitable and was actually used in the same model. I ordered the BU508A I ordered a hr7533 ( which is a suitable replacement for the AT2079 37591 ). Since I am in Australia I found a supplier of the LOPT at Wagneronline instead of ordering from abroad which is handy for us Aussies if you happen to be one and are reading this. So I really couldn’t wait to start working on the monitor this afternoon. To do this I had to de-solder and remove the RF shield first. With patience I succeeded in getting the wire out without destroying the socket. Then soldered in the new HOT and attached the clamp which holds the HOT in place so that it has good contact with the heat-sink, getting the HOT into that tight space was difficult and frustrating to say the least but I succeeded eventually. I powered on the monitor with SSF2 running and was delighted to hear no high pitched whine sound however, the display was so bright that the CRT was blinking. I adjusted “screen” on the flyback until the blinking stopped and I could see faint text on the screen. I put the game into test mode and selected the dot hatch pattern and tweaked “focus” until I could get the display as sharp as possible.The strange lines I described earlier are now gone and the display has never looked better. I re-assembled the monitor and I plan to play a few more rounds of SSF2 tonight. With its many ports it can be used for connecting to many home and personal computers and can also be connected to video recorders, picture record players and TV tuners. All the important settings can be changed over regulators art the front or the back. While the 1084 only plays mono, the modell Commodore 1084S can also play stereo. Due to its good price performance ratio the 1084 was (and still is) very popular. This forum is in no way affiliated with Atari Interactive. The schematic,and some pics. I develop a free Word (for Windows) add-in that's available for Word 2007 upwards. It's a fix-it toolbox that will allow power Word users to fix document errors. You can find it at: Im not sure if this working with other type commodore monitor,coz i have only this type monitor to test,but think this diagram can be work only with this plug: of D2 type monitor The difference is: the circle connector of (D) and (D1) monitor ( ) has not Composite Sync pin, that is a problem. The difference is: the circle connector of (D) and (D1) monitor ( ) has not Composite Sync pin, that is a problem. I don't think that it's the problem for Atari, as it has separated H and V sync outputs - so, one line more in cable and will work even slightly better. What will use depends from that - monitor inputs. No faffing about trying to order plugs there Indeed, VSYNC needs to be connected. Soldered the VSYNC wire and picture was perfect. Here's a link to a page that describes both the 6-pin (round) DIN connector and the 9-pin (DSUB?) connector pinouts for the Commodore 1084.. itors.html I also used 120 ohm resistors for the R, G and B lines (as suggested all over the place). This cable has the audio signal as well (because the 1084 has separate left and right audio input RCA-type connectors). Code: Select all Atari ST (13-pin) C1084 (with ROUND 6-pin DIN connector)I used an old, thin and flimsy joystick cable which is not the best possible solution. Here's a quote from someone wiser than me:Just reviving an old thread. I made a ST - 1084s cable and it kind of works. I have audio and a crisp and stable picture, but the colors are not quite right. I now have a green desktop, but it seems like white is not available. Instead the border is sort of light turqoise. I didn't put any resistors on RGB lines, is this the cause or am I missing something. The same goes for games, there doesn't seem to be any white. Flemming Denmark Flemming Denmark And apparently it doesn't take 20 years either. I bought a Polaroid LCD for my ST about 2 years ago.Left it in its box for 6 months or a year before hooking it up to the STe and the display would show the Polaroid splash screen and then just go black. Apparently they've been using bad caps Take a look at screenshot. GEM looks ok (but green is not corect green!) and games have distorted colors (red and blue are very week and everything is greenish). I put 100 ohm resistors on RGB line and 70ohm on composite sync. Does anybody have any idea what could be problem.Check your red line again. Check your red line again. Maybe port in monitor is broken. I will try to make composite signal to make sure that output from STe is ok.These things would be obvious from a video of the fault, but a still photo gives less information. Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods and will depend on when your payment clears - opens in a new window or tab. Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab See the seller's listing for full details. Contact the seller - opens in a new window or tab and request a postage method to your location. Please enter a valid postcode. Please enter a number less than or equal to 28. Sellers may be required to accept returns for items that are not as described. Learn more about your rights as a buyer. - opens in a new window or tab You're covered by the eBay Money Back Guarantee if you receive an item that is not as described in the listing. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. It was good for gaming, but not for serious Special display units with monochrome (usually green) or color Some of them were simple units based on TV sets It was manufactured It was quite good for Unfortunately that's not true, as I There was a DIY project The only problem there was picture More information - there But TWM-315 had a TTL video decoder allowing These are prototypes To support Most units According to the Commodore monitors list There were 2 versions of this monitor.