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carter wgd manualOnce you have a carburetor number you can enter it into the search box and click on GO. The correct carburetor kit will be displayed. This is not an exact science. Casting numbers tend to cross over several carburetor numbers. Casting Number Carburetor Number Application 604 714s, 849s Oldsmobile 615 728s Packard 771 773s, 776s, 2115s Hudson 774 781s, 813s Kaiser, Frazer 803 767s, 784s, 928s Packard 836 851s Oldsmobile 904 956s Federal Truck 967 986s, 2102s Packard 987 999s, 2052s Kaiser 987 2052s Willys 1008 2015s Oldsmobile 1049 2042s Federal Truck Carter WGD Rebuild Manual download WGD 2182s, 2207s Flooding, Stalling Bulletin Metering Rod Adjustment The tapered end of the metering rods fit down into the main jets. When idling, the metering rods are in the down position. As the throttle is opened up, the metering rods are raised up allowing more fuel to pass. The metering rods must be adjusted after the pump adjustment, or when leaner than standard rods are installed. No gauges are necessary. With the throttle lever set screw backed out and throttle valves seated in the bores of the carburetor, press down on vacumeter link (D) until metering rods bottom. With rods held in this position, revolve metering rod arm until lip contacts vacumeter link (E). Hold in place and carefully tighten metering rod arm set screw (F). Contact Us All Rights Reserved. Please don't copy stuff from this site without asking; it may belong to someone. Material on this website is presented solely for historical research and educational purposes only. Any trademarks appearing on this site are the sole property of the registered owners. No endorsement by the trademark owners is to be construed, nor was any sought. The products, brand names, characters, related slogans and indicia are or may be claimed as trademarks of their respective owners. The use of such material falls under the Fair Use provisions of intellectual property laws.https://www.acsmoz.com/fotos/cycle-country-manual-plow-angle-kit.xml
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No endorsement by the trademark owners is to be construed. All prices are in US Dollars. Reason I do this is very hard starting. The engine was completely rebuilt and the ignition is in good shape, all the adjustments are spot on, so I decided to have a go at the old Carter. The rebuilt is coming along nicely but I'm a curious kind of guy so over the past days a few questions came up. I would like to share them with you and maybe have your opinion on them. What I noticed when removing the carburetor was that the bowl was completely empty, no fuel. Last time I ran the car was a month ago, would this be a normal situation. I guess it is one main reason for hard starting when there is no fuel to start on. Then there is the automatic choke. All the parts seem to be there, only the little Welch plug covering the cacuum piston bore went missing. This means that the position of the choke blade does not react on the engine vacuum, so it needs replacing. I guess a self fabricated aluminium plate will take care of the job. Another thing is the heating of the bi-metal choke spring in the black housing cover. I know it is supposed to be heated from the manifold and the tubing is all there, but does anyone have a clue how it really works. What you would expect is two tubings to and from the manifold, one suppying fresh and the other hot air. I know there is a vacuum passage from the choke housing to the carburetor housing. My theory for the carter WGD is that the vacuum by-pass along the choke piston is enough to suck hot air from the manifold to the choke housing. But how about the fresh air supply because there is only one tubing. And how much vacuum can be generated in the choke housing considering there is an air leak around the flat rod that connects the choke mechanism to the throttle shaft for increased idle. What is your opinion and your experience guys. Do you guess the Climate Control choke will ever be functional again (and the big question: was it functional back in 1954). Last but not least I discovered an amount of play around the throttle shaft, too much. Then I discovered two grooves with O-rings in the shaft where it bears in the throttle body to correct the play and prevent air leakage. My guess is that this is definitely not an off factory situation as it makes it difficult for the shaft to turn freely. My guess is that someone in the past tried to cure the air leak this way. A more definitve solution would be to have the throttle body milled to accept new self lubricating bronze or even teflon bushes. The shaft itself seems to be in good condition. Well guys, these were some observations and questions I like to share with you. In the meantime I will give all the parts a final meticulous cleaning with caburator cleaner to finish the preparations and start rebuilding. By the way, when disassembling the carburetor I noticed how rough the outside of the casting is, not eroded but probably rough from the moment it was assembled by Carter. Here is a manual I found for that carburetor. Sorry, but I can't help with your other questions. Cheers, Tom Wear in the base casing at the throttle shaft bores is encountered commonly enough and the better carburetor rebuilders service it the same way you've suggested - by boring and installing bushings and if necessary a new shaft. To find a fuel bowl empty after sitting for a month is entirely normal, the bowl is vented to the atmosphere and that's more than enough time for the fuel to evaporate. The WDG is a very good design and given a proper rebuild, I'm sure you'll be very happy with the results. The service manual is very useful. In the meantime I've rebuilt the housing and the top of the carburetor. What remains is the throttle shaft issue and the welsh plug. Should be back on the car in a couple of days, ready for spring season. Hans So after putting it all together again I will be checking the adjustments to make sure everything is spot on. What in your opinion would be a good method to start the engine after the fuel in the bowl has evaporated. I guess a little fuel down the venturi would help. A friend of mine has a WW 2 Ford Jeep. His fuel pump has a maual lever that helps bringing up te fuel, quite useful. Thanks for responding! Hans Years ago when I worked at a shop we would fill the carburetors we rebuilt with a piece of shop built equipment that included a small can of gas with an electric fuel pump, and a hose and various fittings. It worked well, but would not be acceptable shop practice today.It is important that the cover plate on the manifold be present and fit. Now on to the carb: to have the vacuum bring up the warm air to the choke thermostatic coil there are a couple of things to check: on the WGD the the choke housing casting is often a little loose on the body of the carb--be sure the 3 screws are snug. There is a sheet metal disc, that fits into a recess in the choke housing that separates the mechanism side of the housing from the thermostatic side. This helps to direct the warm air over the coil. It is often missing. Lastly, the black thermostat housing must seal to the choke housing. I am amused that you suppossed that they never worked. How then did granma get to the store, or granpa to work in February. Anyway, if your carb is too worn I would be happy to sell you a core. During assembly I'll certainly look into these points. I was happy that all choke parts are there including the metal baffle plate you mention. When assembling the carburetor on the engine I will look into the stove on the manifold too. During dissassembly noting seemed to be missing or broken, but I'll give it the once over and correct if necessary. One of the choke cover screws lost its threads, so it was loose. I replaced the screw by a metric one which seems to have done the trick. Furthermore the welch plug covering the vacuum piston bore wwas replaced somewhere in history by a small piece of cork glued in place with silicon sealer. The cork was hanging loose when I removed the carburetor from the engine. So that was not helping correct choke action either. I spent this sunday afternoon filing a piece of aluminium sheet into the right round form and making it convex. With success, it fits snugly in the bore. I applied a little sealant just to make sure no vacuum leak will occur. As I go on I'm getting more and more convinced that the choke is going to do the job. Grandma and grandpa will be proud of me, because Dutch winters can be cold. So only the rebushing of the throttle shaft remains to be done, but I will leave this to a professional. Thanks again! I think something like that is useful each time I start up after a longer period. I certainly will report on the first start of the car after completing the rebuild of the caburetor. Fixing all the little problems should promise a satisfying result Iguess. The fuel pump should fill the bowl, and the starter will have a very easy time turning over the engine. Then retighten plugs, reconnect coil, and get it started. Cheers, Tom If you would to help out by either donating content, or funds to help with the upkeep and hosting of thisPackard related questions should be asked in the Forums here on the website for best response. Email Webmaster All content here is presented for Non-Profit Informational purposes only. All PackardInfo.com generated content is Copyright 2006-2020 PackardInfo.com - All Rights Reserved. The Packard Script is the registered trademark of The Packard Club, PAC, and is used with permission. Items using the Packard Script are officially licensed by The Packard Club, PAC. Users are responsibile for verifing copyright status on all their dontated material. Any copyrighted material remains the property of their respective owners is used here under the 'Fair Use' provisions of current intellectual property and copyright laws. The box is from the era, but not original to the carb. ” Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab Learn More - opens in a new window or tab The box is from the era, but not original to the carb. ” Contact the seller - opens in a new window or tab and request post to your location. Please enter a valid postcode. Please enter a number less than or equal to 1. Sellers may be required to accept returns for items that are not as described. Learn more about your rights as a buyer. - opens in a new window or tab You're covered by the eBay Money Back Guarantee if you receive an item that is not as described in the listing. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. I think that someone had mentioned it being a Carter in another thread, not for sure tho. Thanks, Steve I drive 'em! When you get around to actually removing the carburetor there are some numbers we can check on the base. I drive 'em! When you get around to actually removing the carburetor there are some numbers we can check on the base. On the passenger side of the float bowl it says 0-458, the brass tag is OF COURSE missing. So is this one of the joys of the '49's being some 22nd and some 23rd series. Or has it just been swapped at some point. Is this a better, worse, or same difference as far as carbs go. It leaks from 5 different places so I am going to have to do some carb rebuilding soon anyway. I plan on using this Packard for touring so if this is a not so good one, or if there is a particular very good one that I should track down and rebuild instead then let me know, not to worried about stock anymore so ANY 2bbl is an option here. What do ya think? Thanks, Steve The casting number that we need is on the very bottom flange face of the carburetor where it attaches to the manifold. I don't know how easy it is to see installed in the car (I'm not currently in my garage to look). The number you found (0-458) I don't think is relevant.Here is a PDF with the specs on the correct carburetor for your Packard. It also includes a picture and adjustment details. As long as the current carburetor is providing fuel (whether it leaks or not) I'd not mess with it until you get the non-starting problem corrected. Have patience. It was running. it will run again! Edit: the carburetor can't be off a Willys with a casting code of 458 since Willys didn't use the Carter CarStarter switch. I drive 'em! The casting number that we need is on the very bottom flange face of the carburetor where it attaches to the manifold. I don't know how easy it is to see installed in the car (I'm not currently in my garage to look). The number you found (0-458) I don't think is relevant.Here is a PDF with the specs on the correct carburetor for your Packard. It also includes a picture and adjustment details. As long as the current carburetor is providing fuel (whether it leaks or not) I'd not mess with it until you get the non-starting problem corrected. Have patience. It was running. it will run again! Edit: the carburetor can't be off a Willys with a casting code of 458 since Willys didn't use the Carter CarStarter switch. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Are they shared with any 4-barrels of the period, like WCFB. I have a WGD carb on a 1955 Pontiac 287. I changed from a Hydramatic to a 3-speed manual trans. The carb seems to have a little flat spot off idle, that I think may be related to different loading with a clutch vs a fluid coupling. I'm looking to begin by setting this carb up to match the factory manual-transmission spec. In 2006 we started offering carburetor parts for fellow enthusiasts, allowing one stop shopping for all their carburetor needs. We now stock thousands of carburetor parts, shipping orders daily to our customers all over the world. Our mission has always been to supply the best quality carburetor parts at a fair price with fast shipping, tech info and excellent customer service.