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4 element steppir manual

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4 element steppir manualWith a 32 foot boom and weighing in at reasonable 99 lb, this antenna is ideal for DXers that want to maximize performance on 20m-6m and still have a dipole on 40 and 30 meters. The 4 element Yagi is configured for maximum gain and solid front-to-rear ratios. CLICK HERE for the Electronic Controller Information page Requires a transceiver interface cable. CLICK HERE to see which interface cable you will require for your radio. Helps prevent potential mismatch issues that could damage the antenna. Module will only work if the antenna is not in the process of adjusting when the event occurs. Requires a power source. Advanced lightning protection (ALP) module is included with this option. Remote driver board comes with an aluminum mounting plate but does not come with an enclosure. The loop element design makes the overall length for this element 39 feet, 40 shorter than the 70 ft length a full sized dipole would require, with only a 0.4dB drop in gain peformance! Because the loop elements droop lower than the non-loop elements, this option allows a more uniform appearance of all the elements. Does not improve wind or ice load limits. For appearance only. Because this is a fixed element, the performance effect is only good from 50.000MHz to 50.400MHz. A must for anyone using 6m or with a desire to experiment! Available in 1 foot increments. Lengths over 200 feet require the 33v power supply or the remote driver board option (see SDA 100 controller page). The field splice consists of 3 terminal headers that are mounted to a PCB board, which is in turn connected to a male DB25 connector. The control cable is connected to the splice using the included wiring diagram. Having the field splice allows for exact lengths of control cable, with lengths available to the nearest foot. In addition, if the cable is being run into a conduit, it eliminates the need to cut off the connector. Made by Array Solutions.http://posetili.ru/userfiles/bosch-kts-520-manual.xml

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A better option would be the 09130 Advanced Lightning Protection (ALP) module, which internally protects the SDA 100 controller by relaying out the driver chips in case of a lightning strike, near incident event or a dead short. The control cable wires are connected to terminal strips, which are then placed into the plastic housing. The connector junction box is a hinged enclosure that has female terminal headers mounted inside. The connector junction box also includes a 25 pin female dsub mounted inside, for testing the antenna at the point of installation. Highly recommended! For cable runs over 300 feet we recommend the Remote Driver Board (see controller information page). The remote driver board allows you to run cat5e cable up to 2000 feet away from the tower base (power required at tower for this option) Many people convert their left over 20m driven into a dipole or keep the EHU as a spare. Learn more. The current and future SteppIR products should produce the most potent single tower antenna systems ever seen in Amateur Radio. We thank you for using our SteppIR antenna for your ham radio endeavors. Also, since the SteppIR can control the element lengths, a long boom is not needed to achieve near optimum gain and front to back ratios on 20 - 10 meters. Note that the lengths shown for each boom piece are overall lengths, the actual finished length of Reflrctor Mast the boom will be 32 feet. Figure 2 Rub a thin film of connector protector around the circumference of all male boom pieces BEFORE sliding the female sections over them (Figure 2). Also, do not twist the aluminum tubing excessively as that can cause binding. Make sure they are installed on top of the element-to-boom brackets exactly as shown in Drawing 3 (looking down on the boom). Drawing 3 Refer to Figures 13, 14 and 15.First complete the reflector, direc-. The 4 special poles for this option have some differences from the standard poles. Each tele- scoping pole uses 3 pieces of the 1.http://aspirecambodia-edu.org/userfiles/bosch-kts-570-user-manual.xml5” x 3” long heat shrink, which forms an adhesive bond that is heat activated. Some of them may have been sanded, while others were not. The colors at the ends will be either natural, or black. The difference in colors has no affect on performance. It is very important to ensure that the butt end of the EST firmly bottoms out inside the EST. Then push the quick disconnect boot firmly onto the EST until the hose clamp is past the aluminum ring and will clamp down onto the fiberglass telescoping pole (FTP). Bear in mind that a Yagi rarely has maximum gain and maximum front to back at the same time, so it is always a compromise between gain and front to back. Our antenna designs are all close to 22 ohms at all frequencies, so we needed a broadband matching system that would transform 22 ohm to 50 ohm. We found an excellent one designed by Jerry Sevick, that is described in his book “Building and Using Baluns and Ununs”. The manufacturer assumes no further liability beyond repair or re-. We have 3 SteppIR 4 Element Yagi manuals available for free PDF download: Instruction Manual, Installation Instructions Manual. Review Summary For: SteppIR Fluidmotion 4 Element Reviews: 25 MSRP: 2095 USD Description: A 4 element yagi with continuously adjustable elements, driven by a Elements are contained in For long coantrol cable runs (over 200 feet) an Product is in production More Info: Initially I had a few problems putting it together and making it work, as the manuals are not up to date, but the technical support and advice from Steppir was tremendous. On 20m I compared it with a 3element 20m beam which I have on a separate tower both pointing in the same direction and the 4 element Steppir won hands down. It has surpassed my expectations at all levels.http://www.drupalitalia.org/node/70958 The company (steppIR) in it's pre-release literature had claimed that performance wise this was going to be a new type of antenna, one that would allow the user to have at his or her command a mono-band antenna on 6 through 20 meters. They were RIGHT! OK, it's not a GREAT 6M antenna. But when comparing apples to apples this thing rocks. I'm still using the original controller. Nice job Mike! ---------------------- Earlier 5-star review posted by N0AG on 2011-07-07 OK.First of all, I live in the RF Blackhole of the US. I decided about three years ago I needed to go big or go home. Replaced a 70' 25G and TH7 with a 120' of 45G and the 4 el steppIR. First: Read the Manual. You need to pay attention to the instructions and steppIR reflector BEFORE U start putting ur antenna together. Third: Once you get this antenna in the air sit back and enjoy what you have. Essentially a 4 el mono bander on 10, 12, 15, 17, and 20 meters, the performance is outstanding. I was a bit concerned about the boot connections and the fiberglass element connections (just held together by tape) but after two plus years in the Kansas climate lab it has survived -20 to 105 degree temperatures and 80 mph winds. This antena is expensive and probably not for a lot of Hams BUT if you are after serious DX or you are limited to a single tower this could be the antenna for you. It WORKS. I can't really comment on the support aspect from steppIR, other than a couple of e-mails I have not needed any support. I LOVE mine! I've had it up (120' on a 45G) since March 2009 so about 7 months. Solar Cycle doldrums but this thing can HEAR and if you can HEAR in Kansas you can hear from anywhere. I just have not had any problems so far. Winter is coming though and we will see how it fares through an ice storm or two. Tom.NOAG However I have to finally declare that in wind gusts of just 65mph, this antenna repeatedly failed mechanically and electrically and will now be 'scrapped'.http://ambarevleri.com/images/4-gear-manual-transmission.pdf The only conclusion can be that in windy conditions the 4 element Steppir is 'Not fit for Purpose'. ---------------------- Earlier 5-star review posted by G4BIM on 2010-01-28 I have read with great interest the comments good and bad made about the 4 element SteppIR. Some maybe genuine failures and others may be for other reasons not necessarily attributable to the design or the manufacturer. I now have almost 3 years of experience with SteppIR products with a Big SteppIR Vertical, a 3 element and also a 4 element Yagi, at an elevated location only a kilometre from the English Channel. Yes I have had 2 temporary failures in that time, one self inflicted and the other not so much a failure as a replacement of some rubber gators. For those who read this report, remember the following when comparing this design to mono and trapped multiband alternatives: 180deg polar electrical reversal in around 3 seconds with only a few db degradation in forward gain. Terrific front back performance. Near perfect SWR wherever you choose to go. Copper conductors for all 4 elements, not inferior aluminium. In normal horizontal operation, elements protected and enclosed from the weather vastly reducing the possibility of corrosion. At the press of a button in the shack you can redesign the antenna and save the settings for forward, reverse and dipole mode, to suit your operating requirements giving better front to back or forward gain. This is a product for Radio Amateurs not Commercial Stations. Its construction may not be perfect, most products are not these days, but an HF antenna with this capability and electrical performance built to MIL spec, would cost a very great deal more than its current price. If you are happy to compromise with trapped Yagis and log periodics, then don’t buy the SteppIR. It has giving me a lot of joy, I can say that I work what I hear, many times I am one of the very first stations in hearing the DX, and so on I work it, even in very hard propagation conditions, then 20 - 30 minutes later the DX arrives much better and it easier to contact, but for then I made the contact, hi,hi. When considering buying it I had to decide betwen SteppIR and Optibeam, for weight, size, and for not having allumimiun exposed to the elements,I choose it, I made the right decission. By then I had a lot of problems with a telescopic tower build in South of Spain, as the size of this antenna was not exagerated I could fix more easily the problems than having a bulky one. When I just received the boxes, an discussion arouse in internet about the rubber boots of the elements, so again I used my previous experience and I made a triple protective layer of sillicon and thermoelastic rubber to cover generously the supposed defective rubber boots. It has worked so far, as I made NO MAINTENANCE AT ALL, the antenna ha worked perfectly since 2008.It is fact the the antenna builders tends to make too much easy the work to build his products, and claims a building time much below of the required for lasting many years and keeping top performance. This was due to center fiberglass section disintegration. Was advised by factory to replace entire EHU due to difficulty of repair re-assembly and possible hidden damage to other components caused by this failure. Replacement unit arrived with worn components (elongated holes on EHU housing - same as my damaged unit). While waiting for WX to repair, both reflector and driven element suffered same problem. It is clear that this antenna was not designed to withstand the conditions at my QTH. Final disposition: Landfill! Here are my results and observations: What I like: 1. A solid performer DX antenna that will open and close 20m when other antennas become deft. 2. Fast 180 degree checks of propagation (is the signal on LP or SP). I can change direction simply by flipping the antenna electronically. CW at 100w becomes a big signal. 4. Mono-band performance on all bands 20 and above in one antenna. What others should know: 1. Robust construction when assembled with care, that will survive winds, ice and storms (I retract the elements at the first sign of lightning. 2. Requires patience and testing when assembling. It is not plug and play. This is a physically big antenna. 3. Requires maintenance similar to other full size yagis such as periodic tightening of boom clamps, coax replacement etc. 4. Eventually, you will want to replace the rubber boots, phylistran boom guys and repaint the fiberglass elements. What would I change: 1. More complete assembly instructions with more pictures and explanations that even a dummy like me can use. (this may have recently changed) 2. A better housing at the antenna for the element control cable terminations. 3. Lightning protection for control cables built in rather than an option. In summation: This is a serious antenna that requires investment of your time and energy but will pay off with long haul DX performance when others are straining to hear what you are working. The rubber plumbing pipe adaptors that attach the fiberglass elements to the motor housing stubs, have rotted. One fiberglass element crashed to the ground a few weeks after the 3 year extended warranty expired. The inner metal tape was extended, and flapped around in the wind until I retracted it. The tape is kinked and the bullet end is missing. The factory sent new boots and a new fiberglass element at no charge, but to lower the antenna, in the middle of the Alaska winter, NO - I'll wait until spring, in May or June. SteppIR has recommended I replace the entire motor housing, which will require lowering the antenna from the tower. So I'm looking at 16 hours of work just to lower the antenna and raise it again, plus the time to replace a motor unit. Anyone thinking about this antenna, must seriously look at installing it on a crank up tilt over tower, because it probably will need to be lowered regularly for repairs and maintenance. On the Yahoo SteppIR chat group, I was thrashed for saying anything bad about the antenna, and for even thinking of installing it on a fixed tower, and not on a crank up tilt over. When this antenna works it works nicely, BUT do not expect it to work all the time. You need to be able to access all the elements. My old HyGain TH6DXX worked fine for 20 years, until the crank up guyed tower came down in a storm. I'm considering a TH7DX rather than disassemble, lower, repair and raise the SteppIR. And then know that I may have to lower the SteppIR again in a few years. I'm in my 60's, am not afraid of heights, but am no longer a good tower monkey, with declining agility and strength to man handle this antenna at the tower top. Ron give the first class service. It play like it all come from the same manufacturer. The assembly was just fun. The performance are fantastic, point and run with only 85w from my ProIII. My first test was at the 07 CQ WW SSB, I have to see I am so imprest with the performance, 2 call at HC8A an I was in the log, the pil-up was BIG!!!. Same with KH2,ZL,VK and so.After 30 zone in my log I don't believe my one eyes. If you can hear them, you cant run them from 10 to 20m:-) I have not tested the 4L on 6m, non conditions when I have been on the air. The SWR are from 1:1 to max 1:1.2 10-40m not bad. The SWR on 6m are 1.4-1.5. The performance on 40m are as expected, not a beam just a dipole. The SteppIR are worth every penny. So fare I am enormous happy with this masterpiece. 73 de LA3ZPA Ronny When you subscribe, you receive only messages forOther useful informationThe site will be something of which everyone involved can be proud to say they were a part. Contact the site with comments or questions. Some users have reported the rubber is In the worst case, In addition Its a good idea to re-tighten the Date: 7-Nov-2004, Re:I was able to make The clamps are installed per the manual It looked like the phillystran Looking at the assembly manual I noticed Effective immediately we will supply enough clamps to Our apologies for not getting it right the This will cause. Antennas! here are a few notes regarding receiver antennas for am, shortwave, and scanner frequencies. The antenna can handle up to 2000 watts of transmit power. PDF 8 pages. You can also use your antenna for international, commercial, and 10-meter amateur radio operatio. Unplug the power supply and disconnect the 25-pin D-sub con- If the controller Then disconnect the power plug and It is then advisable to perform a This ensures the controller is in sync If you have pur- For more infor- These options will have different wiring configura- Refer to each options section for more information. Add or delete clocks for cities in different time zones. How To use Alarm Clock Set the alarm clock. Set time, repeat options, alarm sound and alarm name. How To Delete an alarm Navigate to and delete a chosen alarm. How To use Sleep timer Enable sleep timer to automatically turn off device after a set period. How To use Stopwatch Use the stopwatch on the iPod nano. Manage lap timings, view sessions log. How To Resume an open session of the. Resume an open session upon continuation of paused activity. How To Delete saved sessions from the. Delete all saved sessions from the stopwatch to clear log. How To Delete a session log from the. Navigate to and delete a particular session log. How To Listen to music while using stopwatch Play music or video while running the stopwatch. How To Store and read notes Store and read notes transferred from a computer in plain text format. Contacts book Load your computer's address book into the iPod nano. Look up contacts and add new ones. Games Play preloaded games on your iPod nano - Klondike, Maze and Vortex. How To Prevent your iPod nano from updating. Use keyboard controls to prevent automatic updating when connected to computer. Audio File formats - File formats supported. View list of file formats supported by iPod nano. File formats not supported by iPod nano View list of file formats not supported by iPod nano. Things to remember Check some special features of iPod nano compatible file formats. How To Use spoken menus Manage spoken menus. Activate using iTunes, or disable from nano main menu. How To Lock the iPod nano screen Lock iPod nano screen to prevent unauthorized usage. Know difference between locking and. How To Set a lock combination Set a combination to lock your nano screen. How To Unlock with combination Unlock iPod nano screen by entering combination. How To Apply combination to lock Lock iPod nano screen by entering lock combination. How To Unlock without combination Unlock nano by connecting it to the computer with which it is synced primarily. How To Change combination Replace existing lock combination, using the Reset Combination function. How To Convert DVDs for viewing on your nano Convert DVDs to iPod-ready format using Handbrake software.Transfer data to another computer. Enable as hard disk Use iTunes to enable your iPod nano to be used as a hard disk. Use as a hard disk Use the iPod nano as a hard disk. Drag and drop files on it. How To Remove files from iPod nano Remove files from your iPod nano using a computer.How To Retry iPod Nano Retry connecting to computer from a different USB port. How To Restart iPod Nano Solve some common problems by restarting computer. How To Reinstall iPod Nano Reinstall latest version of iTunes from the internet. How To Restore iPod Nano Use iTunes to restore or update the iPod software. How To Back up iTunes content Backup iTunes library content using backup disks. Use Incremental Backup function to. How To Restore from Backup disk Restore backed up files to iTunes using backup disks. BASIC CONTROLS OF iPOD NANO To control your iPod nano you use two basic finger operations on the circular panel onits front face.To turn on your iPod nano Look at the top. Now, press any button on your iPod nano to turn it on. 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