3w 100i b2 manual
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3w 100i b2 manualFirst question is: I read that the first production of the 106iB2 were coming out with the sticker of the 100iB2,how may I know which is mine?On the first pic it shows that there is a 106 engraved on the engine next to the sticker,does that mean it's a 106?Should I tell you the serial number. Second: It has a tillotson carb.I read that it's a crap and thought to change to a walbro.Is the WJ-71 a good one and does the bolt pattern match?Also many people changed the Reed Cage Housings to Aluminum one instead off FRP Material,it add's about 100-300 rpm right?Should I go for it? Third: From the pics can u tell me if I need to change also the Reed Cage Housings or only the Reeds or nothing?And also the Carburetor Mounting Block,mine doesn't have gaskets. Fifth: One of the cans have some small dents,they shouldn't effect performance right. For any info that may help the ignition is new style with 4 wires.I might have forgot some question, if I have more I will post them. Thanks for any help, JohannCarb is fine, I forget what the inital settings are, the ones in the book are a bit on the rich side if it is already broken in. I faced mine with 1000grit on a piece of glass to get it nice and flat and assembled with a verly thin coat of rtv. Don't overtorqe the bolts as it will cause it to warp. As for the reeds, usually you will see erosion and or the tips broken off yours seem to look ok. Cans should be fine a minor dent or two won't hurt. The new ignition is much better than previous versions and has some nice features. BAFFLE IT cooling is key with these motors. The other thing is if you get it a bit on the wet side it can kick back so be sure to flip it with authority. I have the xrays to prove it.Wait until you run it first. One place I might anticipate a problem is with the igntion. They have not been noted for their reliability, but that's an inexpensive and quick fix if and when it becomes an issue.http://www.sps.agro.pl/userfiles/bosch-integrated-dishwasher-shv55m03gb-manual.xml
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The WJ-71 will fit, but the Tillotsen is a better carb once you learn how to work with it. The manual mixture settings are only for getting the engine started. They are not intended to be used for running and flight purposes. Take the time to tune the engine. You can download the manual from the 3w site if you need one. The 100, and the 106, were and are extremely strong and reliable engines. The reed design is so good a certain Asian engine manufacturer uses the same one. Anyone with a DLE 111 has the same reed design. If you want to improve on them at all you can use some Permatex Anaerobic Sealer on all the flanges when you re-assemble the induction system. That minimizes small leaks due to seating imperfections You have a great engine there, and the strongest in the 100 class of model twins. If you take care of it she will certainly take care of you.It is a 106 TOC twin but has a 100i sticker. Not tying to steal the thread but just some question's. How much more power can I expect from the TOC version?? Aren't they less output than the CS version?? Mine has a backshaft. Didn't know you could buy it with that option. How much more weight does that ad?? Would it hurt to cut it off?? Mine also has a newer style ignition that the last guy bought but I still have the older style hall sensor. What wires do I have to change?? Thanks and again not trying to hijack the thread but your engine is simialer and saves some cyber space Carb is fine, I forget what the inital settings are, the ones in the book are a bit on the rich side if it is already broken in. I faced mine with 1000grit on a piece of glass to get it nice and flat and assembled with a verly thin coat of rtv. Don't overtorqe the bolts as it will cause it to warp. As for the reeds, usually you will see erosion and or the tips broken off yours seem to look ok. Cans should be fine a minor dent or two won't hurt. The new ignition is much better than previous versions and has some nice features.http://www.smadie.fr/bosch-integrated-freezer-manual.xml BAFFLE IT cooling is key with these motors. The other thing is if you get it a bit on the wet side it can kick back so be sure to flip it with authority. I have the xrays to prove it. Wait until you run it first. One place I might anticipate a problem is with the igntion. They have not been noted for their reliability, but that's an inexpensive and quick fix if and when it becomes an issue. The WJ-71 will fit, but the Tillotsen is a better carb once you learn how to work with it. The manual mixture settings are only for getting the engine started. They are not intended to be used for running and flight purposes. Take the time to tune the engine. You can download the manual from the 3w site if you need one. The 100, and the 106, were and are extremely strong and reliable engines. The reed design is so good a certain Asian engine manufacturer uses the same one. Anyone with a DLE 111 has the same reed design. If you want to improve on them at all you can use some Permatex Anaerobic Sealer on all the flanges when you re-assemble the induction system. That minimizes small leaks due to seating imperfections You have a great engine there, and the strongest in the 100 class of model twins. If you take care of it she will certainly take care of you. Do you know of any specific sealers?It is a 106 TOC twin but has a 100i sticker. Not tying to steal the thread but just some question's. How much more power can I expect from the TOC version?? Aren't they less output than the CS version?? Mine has a backshaft. Didn't know you could buy it with that option. How much more weight does that ad?? Would it hurt to cut it off?? Mine also has a newer style ignition that the last guy bought but I still have the older style hall sensor. What wires do I have to change?? Thanks and again not trying to hijack the thread but your engine is simialer and saves some cyber space A bit long and therefore vibrate during running, moving the needles.http://www.drupalitalia.org/node/67935 The fix as I understand it is to shorten the needles on the outside end and re-slot the end. Keeps the vibration harmonics down. A very good sealer is what I mentioned earlier. Permatex Anaerobic Sealer. Apply very thin, and don't buy the suggested primer they sell for it. All you want to do is seal minor leaks, not build a dam. If anything is far out of true flat it needs to be surfaced to be flat. Same issues happen with any engine that uses a plastic reed housing or plastic separator. More of them become warped from people over tightening them than for any other reason.That works out to about 3 foot pounds. Not very much. Done wrong, a Walbro, Zama, Bing, or Emas can cause just as much grief. Just look through the gas engine newbie threads for verification of that. Rick: Don't expect any more power out of the TOC. Some do, and some don't, so if you don't go looking for something that might not be there you won't be dissapointed. They just happen to be put together the way they should be, and supposedly have heads matched better. Damn good engine though. The stock 106 was flying 120 pound uav's a long time ago. Lots of money wrapped up in each plane.It is a 106 TOC twin but has a 100i sticker. Mine has a backshaft. Didn't know you could buy it with that option. How much more weight does that ad?? Would it hurt to cut it off?? Mine also has a newer style ignition that the last guy bought but I still have the older style hall sensor. What wires do I have to change?? It isn't going to take alot to cut off the excess, but be careful, if you do. New style ign with old style pick up. It will not work. You have 2 options, IMO. Sell off the newer style 4 wire ignition unit, and then buy a DA ignition for it. Or, send the engine to Gerhard at Aircraft Int'l and have it upgraded to the 4 wire sensor. If it were me, I would send the engine with ignition to Gerhard, and have him install the new sensor.http://cristalysoptic.com/images/3ware-cli-manual.pdf That way, you know it is absolutely right, and will be no issues once you get it back from him.In fact, I recently swapped out a Tillotson for a Walbro on my 3W 157 when I installed it on a new plane only because of didn't want to re-engineer the throttle linkage (used airframe). After running the engine with the Walbro..well. I'm going to re-engineer the linkage. The engine runs MUCH better with the Tillotson. They're a little more finicky to tune, but provide a MUCH more consistent performance once tuned. The Walbros always a comprimise and tend to run rich in the midrange. The Tillotson can be tuned to perfection at all speeds.A bit long and therefore vibrate during running, moving the needles. The fix as I understand it is to shorten the needles on the outside end and re-slot the end. Keeps the vibration harmonics down. A very good sealer is what I mentioned earlier. Permatex Anaerobic Sealer. Apply very thin, and don't buy the suggested primer they sell for it. All you want to do is seal minor leaks, not build a dam. If anything is far out of true flat it needs to be surfaced to be flat. Same issues happen with any engine that uses a plastic reed housing or plastic separator. More of them become warped from people over tightening them than for any other reason.That works out to about 3 foot pounds. Not very much. Done wrong, a Walbro, Zama, Bing, or Emas can cause just as much grief. Just look through the gas engine newbie threads for verification of that. Rick: Don't expect any more power out of the TOC. Some do, and some don't, so if you don't go looking for something that might not be there you won't be dissapointed. They just happen to be put together the way they should be, and supposedly have heads matched better. Damn good engine though. The stock 106 was flying 120 pound uav's a long time ago. Lots of money wrapped up in each plane. I'll leave it at that. About that ignition. Order an RC Exl ignition from someone. Make certain the source knows you need the hall sensor and mounting bracket. Dump all the 3w stuff and replace with the RC Exl.It was also about 200 RPM stronger than the SS with the same prop. For what it's worth, I've never had an issue with any 3W ignition. I've had several of the old blue dot ignitions and a couple of the IIS version and they've never given me a problem. The key to thier longevity is giving them a little airflow underneath. You can NOT wrap them in foam and zip tie them down.All rights reserved. Multi-rotors (Drones) Drones Talk Multi-rotor Beginner Specific Models of Multi-Rotors and Drones Micro Multi-rotors Mini Multi-rotors Aerial Pictures and Video Showcase Scratchbuilt Multi-rotors Multi-rotor Electronics Multi-rotor Power Systems Multi-Rotor Apps and Related Software Multi-rotor Events FPV (First-Person View) RC Aircraft Flying and RC Vehicle Operation. Forum questions or problems Test Posting Forum I like what I've heard about the new 3W - 100's, as I can get one from Europe substantially cheaper than a DA or BME. I have considered the ZDZ 100 boxer, but it sounds like the 3W is going to have more snarl for the money. Anyway, does anyone have some real-world experience, a' la comparison of the stock 100 B2 vs.Go to Cactusaviation.com or call Bobby yourself at 520-721-0087 tell him Terry F from Battle Creek Mi. sent you!!I meant to say that Cactus Aviation only deals with 3-W motors and that's all.They don't carry parts for other engines such as Desert Aircraft,Brison,or carry kit's from other manufacturers.Aircraft International does.That was a good explanation of the QS series. ThanksI don't see any difference in the way a 3W or DA or ZDZ or BME runs with various props. Everyone I know is propping the 80-100cc motors to turn 6,000-6,600 rpm. Sure, some can turn a bigger load prop in that rpm range, but it's horsepower (not torque) in the that rpm range that determines how big a prop it will turn. A higher torque peak at 4,000 rpm (for example) is only useful if you plan to prop the engine to turn a max of around 5,000 rpm. Prop loads are exponential with rpm - this means that the load increases rapidly with higher rpm. It also means that engines don't need lots of low rpm torque because it's easy to accelerate the prop through the no or low-load range to higher rpm when you open the throttle.I guess I'm a little partial because I only fly 3-W but after seeing Zenoah's,Brisons,BME, and ZDZ's fly I'm glad I made the choice I did in the beginning.Only one other point I would like to make is I fly and am leaning more these days towards warbirds and I think with the weight of some of these babies these days and all the little extras you can put on the under side of them the 3-W is the most logical choice for smoothness and with the torque the motor has I can actually run a more scale size props without the motor bogging down when you perform a manuever,it's like running your lawnmower into deep grass and listening to the motor bog down then picking back up after your through it, I feel the 3- w motors with the low end power they produce don't lose rpm's when you load them up like that,it's like they have a built in invisible govenor that makes them perform the same through the whole rpm range.there really is no need to produce 8000 rpm's these engines don't fall backwards in rpm's or power when you make them work,but like I said I might be a little partial.Use a Menz-S 26x10 on your 3W-85. Have your buddy with the BME-102 try the same prop. You could even try a Menz-S 27x10, that will really load down your 3W, but your buddy with the BME will really like it. The BME should turn the 27x10 prop around 6200 rpm. The 3W will probably be around 5800 rpm.I'm just stating that my motor is approx 18cc smaller and pulling the same size airframe with a pound more weight and pretty much keeping up with a larger motor from a different manufacturer that's all. I'm not putting anybody down just stating a fact that I have personally witnessed.My motors run so good theat the guy I referred to with the other plane has also in turn started running 3-W on his warbirds I guess it is really personally preference.Props make a big difference in performance. You can make a strong engine look bad by choosing the wrong prop. Mezlik props are not exactly known for power and that's what you're seeing in your example. Tracy HillOr have you ever owned one. Both engines run great with the exception of the normal 3W gurgling problem during knife edge and inverted flight. The DA is just an all out better running engine IMHO.Twice the cost does not make a better carb. The WALBRO WGA7 is made for a CHAINSAW.If 3W really wanted to get rid of the mid range problem they could have WALBRO calibrate a carb just for them, as Stihl does for some of their chainsaws. I seriously doubt that 3W could patent the internal workings of an engine.I work on them every day and have not seen anything different inside, except that 3W cranks are too hard on the end so that sometimes the threads break off.That's real progress. If you knew more about 3W you would know that the early engines used commercial parts, just like all the rest. The 3W 60 had a crank made by Husqvarna, and some of the cylinders had plates to cover the piston port intakes, just like all the rest. Crankcases ?? The DA cases are machined from 7075 aluminum,.Take the reed assembly out of a 3W and compare it to a DA.EXACTLY the same part. Get your facts straight. BTW.The heads you are talking about are actually CYLINDERS. A head is something that bolts on the top of a CYLINDER. Show me where anything on a 3W is patented. Check out some of the 3w engines out there.You'll see that many of them are using DA ignitions.Or just the caps, which are better than the 3W caps. Who is doing the copying there ??I have no idea. I'm about to do my first chainsaw conversion. It's a 35cc. This will be my first gasser. I think that there's a lot of hype about buying brand name engines. Everyone knows that a BME 44cc.And there are folks who belive that the BME 44cc.I can say that a Poulan conversion will be a lot cheaper than the BME. Like I said, I have no idea if the chainsaws and weedies perform as well or not. Who cares- prop the engine for max HP and run the snot out of it.The first giant scale engines were chainsaws, and most still use many of the parts. Just because an engine costs more does not mean it's any better.DA didn't design around someone Else's crankcase. Rear induction isn't used to get more low end power, it's used to decrease intake noise. Your low end torque is also nonsense and easy enough to disprove by proping both engines with heavy props. It was something 3W made up when they couldn't make the same top end power as DA. 3W, DA, and ZDZ are all designed from the ground up as airplane engines. Tracy HillI had a 3W-78 twin that had a walbro carb on it and two 3W-80 twins that both had Tillotsons on them. Your arguement that Tillotson is better than Walbro is a bunch of hogwash. Both are great carbs and both were not designed specifically for airplane engines, but for small gasoline burning 2-stroke engines in general, i.e. chainsaws etc. Your engine tuning prowess must be excellent since your 3W doesn't gurgle at mid range in knife edge and inverted flight. Your new 106 may actually not have this problem since 3W designed that motor with a new reed block and modified carb to actually try and alleviate the gurgling problem. I have not owned one of these new generation motors as of yet, but all of my previous generation motors and every one that I have seen fly at my field have had this problem. Unless I am totally blind and onesighted, my DA-100 does not look at all like a Brison, 3W, etc. Please answer this question for me. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use. By continuing to browse the site you are agreeing to our use of cookies. 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Please try again later. gaurav 5.0 out of 5 stars The body frame is damaged but functionality not affected. Very long package and hence could have handled better by courier.The only issue is heavy noise at the end of winding back. Elite can improve by using soft stopping mechanism.This product is huge, and I live on an island away from town. I drove for 2 hours to pick up the package. This is very disappointing. UPDATE: This is way worse than I thought. After turning the projector on we noticed more scratches (see pic 3) and it's terrible. This product is not usable and returning it is a huge pain.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Overall great value for the price. Would recommend.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Doesn't roll up to quick which is a plus.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Will have to wait and see if it flattens out in time. There is a strong odor but it seems to be going away Will update in a couple of monthsSorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Also we needed a pull down and that what we received.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again I've used fabric and painted walls and this does the job with a slight install.Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again I initially ordered a 100 inch screen and felt it was smaller than I had wanted so I got this one instead. The package it came in was slightly squashed one end, and when I opened it up the black metal casing that houses the screen was bent in the center (hence the photo). However when I pulled the screen down, it was totally intact. No wrinkles, bends of any kind and the slow retract even worked like a charm. It retracts reeeally slow, so don't expect a quick one, no screen snapping up fast here (which is good! ). The quality of the picture is great as well paired with my Epson 1060 projector that I ordered around the same time. I would highly recommend this screen for quality and size!Sorry, we failed to record your vote. Please try again. Before you update the firmware,With it the warning message is suppressed, as Compatibility checks are not bypassed. If the These events are kept in a finite queue inside. These events reflect messages of varying severity levels. The levels range The default Likewise, the older the event The order of the messages could be With this the most recent AEN message Note that some characters might not be printable or rendered correctly (humanIt reports a list of phys with related information The 'Device Type' column indicates whether There are three 'Link Speed' The current link speed for phy1 is 3.0 Gpbs, and the link control setting isMoreover, the only changeableTo change the link speed, see the. To see information for an individualFor each activity, up to 7 tasks can be registered, Background tasks have Rebuilds can be started manually Scheduled rebuilds will take This command shows the current rebuild task rate of the The advanced Verify Task Schedule provides RAID-1 involves checking that both drives contain the exact data. On RAID-5 and. RAID-6, the parity information is used to verify data integrity. RAID-10 and 50 On the 9000 series, For the 9650SE and newer controllers, if the basic Verify Task Schedule is This command shows the current verify task rate of the For each activity, up to 7 tasks can be registered, known Background tasks have attributes of The SMART selftest instructs the controller to check certain SMART supported thresholdsThis command will fail if no (empty) slot is available. In that case,In that case, Simply specify a weekly day and time and make sure For more information. Features section of this document. This command will fail if no (empty) slot Otherwise, no firmware initiated or manually started rebuild tasks would run. Otherwise, no firmware initiated or manually started verify tasks would run. When enabled, only registered or scheduled tasks Setting this value to Conversely setting this value to 1 implies The Adaptive The Low Latency setting has been described above. Accordingly, the converse is also true. When enabled, only registered or scheduled Setting this value to 5 Conversely setting this value to 1 implies For more information, see the command Release 9.5.2 or later. Setting verify to advanced enables the Verify Tasks Schedule, which Setting verify toFor more information, see This command allows you to offset this condition by setting the rebuild mode to low The Adaptive The Low Latency setting has been described above. When enabled, the selftest task will beIf the policyFor example, given a spin up policy of 2, the controller will spin up two disksThe amount of timeThese statistics can be helpful when When the Auto-Carving policy is ON, any unit larger than the carvesize This feature is useful for For a 5 TB array, two 2 TB volumes This feature worksAfter the drives are inserted or re-inserted to Please note that the command takes longer to complete for ports that do not have This command applies to This command applies to If the Auto-Carving policy Verifying, Initializing, or Migrating). As a result, an added For example: The process of either. Verifing, Initializing, or Migrating is at 70 and it is a paused process. Currently, The unit is also in the paused An invalid attribute will terminate the loop. Possible attributes are: initializestatus, name (9000 series), qpolicy (9550SX If the queue Some drives For example, when a spare becomes a true unit in migration, it would adopt. Thus, this commmand does not show the If set to ON, the LEDs of the drive slots associated with the specified unit wouldThe state of the read cache could be either basic, intelligent, or. For more informationThis policy can be all, rebuild, or disable. For more information Exporting a unit will instructAs such the unit can later be importedDefault is to inform the OS. The quiet option is for non-interactive mode. Units that are currently in use or mountedDeleting a unit not only remove the Ports (or disks) associated with this In another words, onceDefault is to inform This is a destructive command and should be Units that are currently in use or mountedDuring rebuild, bad sectors on the source disk will cause the rebuild to fail. Rebuild process isThis feature is intended for model 7000 and 8000Model 9000 has an on-board scheduler where rebuild operations can be scheduled If the allocated schedule windows isThis featureFor earlier controller models, This improves read access times for applications such as a database that Read cache may be disabled without This new feature includes a typical read ahead caching method, which is used For example, the By loading a larger set of data This can be helpful with applications that are Performance benefits of read-ahead In addition, Cache setting. If set to ON, Setting overwriteECC to on means ignoreECC. If user likes to use some special characters It is user's responsibility to give unique This feature only applies to 9000 models. If the queue policy isSome drivesFor example, when a Rapid RAID Recovery can speed up the rebuild process, and it can speed up This feature allows for Setting this The following description about the settingsWhen user sets storsave to protect, it means: When user sets the storsave BBU is installed and enabled; Otherwise, will be flushed to disk only, and For example, a valid number The destination unit must use all source. Unspecified parameters are assigned default values (stripe size of 64K, write If the source unit is of type. RAID-1 and the destination unit is of type single, the disk-specifier of the In this case, A four-drive RAID-5 unit can migrate to a four-drive. RAID-0, but a four-drive RAID-0 unit cannot migrate to a four-drive RAID-5, withoutOne or more ports. For exampleRecall that a RAID-50 is a multi-tier RAID-5 layer. These RAID-5 arrays are then integrated into a RAID-0. This option Valid values are 3, The following table By default CLI will inform the OS. One application By default the cache is enabled. Unless there is a BBU or UPS installed, to You can continueOnce the migration is finished, a reboot For secondary storage, depending For instructions, Making any physical changes to the Following those areAfter which example outputs showing theIn this example, In addition, the status of the newly specified disk Single to a RAID-1, initiated by the following commands: Western Digital disk with status OK and is a part of unit u5. This is a list of the possible One or many attributes can be requested. Invalid Possible attributes are: status, model,Its intended use is not for determining theNote the difference The LED of the drive slot associated with the specified port would blink if the The capacity in GB is computed basedTherefore, a requestThe 'type' in the command specifies which The options are either: inst for. Instantaneous, ra for Running Average, lct for Long Command Times,More detailed information regarding these statistics and the Drive. Performance Monitor is available in the Features section under 'Drive. Performance Monitor'. You can import (or re-introduce) the portUse noscan to bypass informing the OS of this The quiet option is for the non-interactive Drives, which are part of a redundantNon-redundant drives, If set to ON, the LED of the drive slot associated with the specified port would The optional 'type' in the command specifies which set of statistics data would be Command Times,and ext for Extended Drive Statistics. More detailed information If no type isMonitor' in the 'Features' section. This command presents a summary report on the The 'Device' column There are three 'Link Speed' columns: 'Supported' Note that the Supported and Enabled values are not changeable.