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3rd gen 4runner manual hub conversion

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3rd gen 4runner manual hub conversionI know Downey used to make a conversion but it was pricey. I went to go look at it and learned today that Downey Offroad went out of business in 09. Does anyone else offer a conversion. I just got to thinking about my gas mileage today and was thinking about how much I could free up the drag if I was running manual hubs. Naturally I would love to have a diamond axle up front but I am far from that place. I predominately use my 4runner as a daily driver but have plans to build it into a nice expo rig. I like the SAS for it's strength and still have the ability to use mostly OEM products in it. I am however not sure how well you could tune the suspension on one to match the drivability of the IFS. I don't see myself doing any crazy rock crawling but would like to know I could run the 33's and weed out as many weak points as I could. I am imagining that even doing a manual hub conversion (if there was still such a product) could potentially be just as pricey as going SAS. So this question is mostly to get others thoughts and open a discussion. It is not my intention to open a pis.sing.match though. It's not like I want to know if plate bumpers are better than tube bumpers or vice versa. The donor was a 4cyl Tacoma. There is no kit that I know of at this time, so if you can find said donor it will have the parts you need. I found a write up somewhere, let me see if I can dig it up. I'll be doing a write up when I do mine, but it may be a while.May not be the best recourse. Not a ton of info but it will give you the basic idea. Do a search for 3rd gen manual hub conversion there and it will come up with a bunch of pages you can dig through to find most of the info. I'll keep looking later when I have more time.May not be the best recourse. May not be the best recourse. May not be the best recourse.http://www.stroysogl.ru/uploads/fck/4_wheeler_manual_snow_plow.xml

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Obviously I am just dreamin and scheming but just from what I have seen here even if one were not to go SAS these rigs are plenty capable to handled all but the more heinous trails with minimal lift and tire. I just would like to limit the wear on the front end and free up the friction and get some better MPG's if I can.I truly believe that there is more drag to the front end than most people think. When his junk was still 2wd, he said it hauled ass. Try using this CL tool. It's great and you can search all over any state. States Will you ever recoup the investment on this mod? I doubt it. It really depends on what you get the parts for and how much you can do yourself. I got lucky since we are SAS'ing a Tacoma right now and the owner GAVE me his front end. I found a donor on CL not too long ago, but got beat out on the parts just as I was getting ready to go get them by a guy who wanted the whole truck so they ARE out there. If you're serious about doing it, keep your eye on CL and junkyards. I personally like this mod and will get it done as time allows. By the time I get done playing with other people's toys, it's really hard to get motivated to work on mine.May not be the best recourse. My 4runner got 23mpg hwy with the 3.4L and auto. Same 4runner with 4wd gets 19 hwy. The only difference is the added Tcase, diff, driveshaft and CVs. Everything else is identical.With the hub conversion you can drive the rig home from the trail instead of having to change everything out there.Then there is always the SAS that has a hub on each end. I am currently collecting parts.Big deal? Not really, but it does add another step to the process.May not be the best recourse. Big deal? Not really, but it does add another step to the process. FWIW, I noticed a bit of an increase in mileage after I went to manual hubs.maybe 1-2 mpg. Because it was so minor I am not sure it can be attributed to the decreased resistance or a change in my driving style.http://brava-ekb.ru/userfiles/4-wheel-drive-manual.xmlFWIW, I noticed a bit of an increase in mileage after I went to manual hubs.maybe 1-2 mpg. Because it was so minor I am not sure it can be attributed to the decreased resistance or a change in my driving style. I know that if you keep the ABS you have to swap the spacer on the taco stuff with the abs stuff from your rig. I'm told, this is the hardest part of the swap. I guess the press work is a real PITA. Any info you can provide would be helpful as there is not a lot of detailed info out there that I could find.May not be the best recourse. I still need to collect a few parts since while I'm in there I want to change ball joints and whatever seals and such so I don't have to go in there again unless I break it. Hard to break at the mall though so I should be good to go for a while.May not be the best recourse. I know that if you keep the ABS you have to swap the spacer on the taco stuff with the abs stuff from your rig. Any info you can provide would be helpful as there is not a lot of detailed info out there that I could find. I took the easy way out and bought the front end from Steve at Sonoran Steel when he did the SAC on his old 1999 4Runner. Wish I could help you out.Feedback Buttons provided by. User Alert System provided by All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The site may not work properly if you don't update your browser. If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit old reddit. Press J to jump to the feed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 2 3rd gen manual front hub conversion? I know some people love their diff drops and that is great, but really its a diff slump and it does change how gear lube sits in your diff. I really like the idea of not turning the front end at all unless your hitting the trail.http://www.drupalitalia.org/node/67644I think its the way it should be if your doing off-road on a regular basis.I figure I could throw a lunchbox locker in the front diff at the same time, and just lock one hub when going offroad or driving in snow. Get stuck, lock em both. Theres a really good writeup on t4r.org about rebuilding the tacoma manual hubs. I'll see if I can find the link and post it up.I have seen people who have just used the tacoma knuckles and you can lose your spedo intermittently.:( do not want that.No wear and tear on the front end.All rights reserved Back to top. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.Oil leak of some sort. Tacomas (1995-2004) ' started by DJB1, Nov 12, 2016.When I was a kid on camping trips with my dad in his primer-patched 1977 Chevy Suburban, I loved it when the road looked bad and he'd tell me to jump out and lock in the hubs. I'd hang for dear life onto the arm rest while the transfer case whined and suspension groaned as Old Blue lumbered along, leaving a trail of rust flakes to help us find our way home. Like lots of people, my weakness for Toyota trucks started during the neon vomit paint and non-functional chrome suspension craze of the 1980s and early 90s. I liked that style but preferred low-spec beaters, especially if I saw them covered in red dirt returning from adventures that looked as white trash as our own. So of course I’m going to like modifications that remind me of the old gods of Toyota 4X4 history. I still have impure thoughts when I see them: I had several reasons for wanting to convert my 1st Gen Tacoma from ADD (automatic differential disconnect) to manual hubs. In order of importance: 1. I scored a complete manual hub front axle assembly super-cheap from online classifieds. The steering knuckles, wheel bearings, CV axles and upper ball joints were all in good condition and reuseable. 2.http://cleanteclogistics.com/images/3rd-edition-conversion-manual.pdf I want to avoid weird vibrations and rapid CV axle wear when I get a suspension lift. 3. If the front differential or a CV axle breaks, I can unlock the hubs and freewheel back to civilization. 4. I get 2-LO with no further modifications. 5. Some who have converted to manual hubs claim a 2-4 MPG improvement, since the CV axles don’t turn in 2WD like they do on ADD trucks. I track my fuel economy anyway, so I’m interested to see if this is true or just internet hype. EDIT: I saw no MPG improvement but this is still one of my favorite mods. If you want to do this the hard way you can get non-ADD wheel bearings pressed into your existing steering knuckles, then source the Aisin hubs and non-ADD CV axles separately. But it's a lot easier if you have complete assemblies: I would have swapped these in without taking them apart, but the locking hubs were stuck so I had to rebuild them. But the bottom row is accurate. Only the Tacoma-specific Aisin hubs with gray dials will fit Tacomas and 3rd Gen 4Runners. I painted my hub dials red for that vintage Toyota 4X4 look. Hang the brake caliper out of the way just like when you change pads and rotors: A 3-jaw puller will pop the upper ball joint loose WAAAY easier than beating it with a hammer. Notice I left the castle-nut partially threaded so the steering knuckle won't flop out and hit me in the gonads. Support the lower control arm with a jack, then take out the bolts for the lower balljoint. That way you can slowly release the strut tension: If you still have a sway bar, move the end link out of the way or you won't be able to pull out the CV axle. The CV axle pops out easy if you use 2 pry bars at the same time on opposite sides: Then when you take the castle-nut off of the upper ball joint, you can pull the steering knuckle and CV axle out at once. The intermediate shaft has a frame bracket with 3 bolts that take a 19MM socket. If your front diff has never been apart before, these torx bolts are going to be brutal. I would strongly recommend having a set of broken stud and bolt sockets, in case you strip one of these like I did. If you have a J-shift transfer case and have to reuse your ADD intermediate shaft: Key on the ignition, shift into 4-HI and key off. Unplug the ADD actuator from its wiring harness and disassemble it. Put a hose clamp on the shift fork to keep it permanently engaged in 4WD and reinstall everything on the front diff. The hose clamp needs to be wide enough that the shift fork can't move. If you skip this step, your passenger side CV axle will not be connected to the front diff even if the locking hub is turned in. Leave the wiring disconnected so the ADD actuator doesn't burn up from attempting to shift in and out of 4WD. The ADD wiring harness can be unplugged near the starter and removed from the chassis harness. If you have a J-shift transfer case and a non-ADD intermediate shaft: Use the double pry bar method again to remove this gear. It has a spline and snap ring just like a CV axle. Then the non-ADD shaft fits like it was meant to be there: Notice that I used normal M12X1.25x36 bolts instead of the stupid torx bolts. This is also a good time to install new axle seals. If you have a pushbutton transfer case: Leave the ADD actuator in working condition because that's what the 4WD button operates. It's the only way to shift in and out of 2-HI and 4-HI while driving. You can't have purely mechanical 4WD like us cool J-shifters, but you can still unlock your hubs for normal daily driving and greatly reduce drivetrain vibrations and CV axle wear. Now you can reassemble the CV's and front suspension. Green CV axles are for ADD and blue ones are for manual hubs. The inner CV shafts are the same but the outer shafts at the wheel end are different. The easy identifier is manual CV's are splined all the way to the end, ADD CV's are threaded at the end. Manual: ADD: There's also an easy identifier for manual vs. ADD differentials if you look at the left side. But it doesn't matter too much because they're interchangeable. Manual: ADD: There are some myths that are frequently recited by friends and internet forums. One is that on ADD systems only the driver's side CV axle turns while driving in 2WD because it's permanently engaged to the front diff, while the passenger side CV axle only turns in 4WD. Here is my ADD CV axle and passenger side front hub. The splined section where the CV axle goes in is part of the hub and can't turn independently: So on ADD front ends it doesn't matter if it's in 2WD or 4WD. If the truck is moving both CV axles are turning. That's not a problem with Toyota components. As long as the hubs are turned in, I can shift in and out of 4-HI at will while driving. I was insistent on keeping ABS until I tried it last winter and experienced how ineffective it is on the 1st gen Tacoma. My new steering knuckles don't have this port for the ABS sensors so I removed them. That will cause the ABS warning light to stay on. Removing the two ABS fuses in the underhood fuse box does not disable the ABS light, so it's time to get into the instrument cluster. The 3rd black knob next to the gray knob holds the ABS warning bulb. Then you can remove the bulb: Removing the ABS modulator and reworking the brake lines is a project for another day. Also, the green 4WD icon in the instrument cluster no longer illuminates since I removed the ADD actuator and wiring harness. I will know 4WD is engaged because I'll get out, lock in my manual hubs, shift my manual transfer case into 4WD, put my manual transmission in gear and possibly crank down my manual windows. That will be more manly than John Wayne making out with Donald Trump during a Ford Super Duty commercial on the 4th of July. They could call it the PROThey could call it the PRO Click to expand. I hate when they do that. Charge more for less. Porsche does it with the GT3. Awesome write up however.That will be more manly than John Wayne making out with Donald Trump during a Ford Super Duty commercial on the 4th of July. Click to expand. It was a pleasure meeting you the other day too. They could call it the PRO Click to expand. Trouble is finding the hubs in the first place. But I'm diggin the old school red on those! I had to paint them to get the proper look.I had to paint them to get the proper look. Click to expand. Mine are still grey, I've been too lazy. Nice write up!OME Dakars with extra leaf in the rear. Warn 8000 winch with 80ft custom braided synth line. Custom 60ft synth extension. All pro tube bumper, Hi-lift jack, Safari Snorkel, Wilco tiregate. Just love staring at it.Just love staring at it. Click to expand. Pro-Series, Compact Design. Public Address (PA) Function. Instant Emergency Channel 9, External Speaker Jack, Large Easy to Read Display. - Black. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I'm having trouble finding out if the parts people are using on Taco's for this will work on a 3rd gen of the same vintage. Would still be interested in input from someone who has done it or even researched it. You just need to find a wrecked truck. FWIW, just from 2 people I've read about, who had the 4 bangers in their tacos, with the manual hubs, and swapped to 3.4's, vs people who have 3.4's with ADD, the manual hub set up seems to be a bit weaker than the ADD set up, IE, people destroying multiple axles as soon as the added power of a 3.4 was in place. The issue appears to be a narrower, weaker outter axle stub on the CV axle itself. But that is just from observations of the naked eye, and not from actual measurements. Absolutely NO testing to verify that, just observed from folks who've had issues around. Cheers! Isaac If you wanna keep ABS (it's almost impossible to find a Taco with ABS and manual hubs), you have to have the spindles pressed out of the Taco knuckle that doesn't have the ABS bung, get new bearings and seals, then have the assembly pressed into your 4runner knuckles. Installs same as it came out, except the ABS tone ring goes in place of the spacer. Had to take it to Toyota, and the press work was 300 bones. I go a great deal on mine, came with King Coilovers, axles, brakes (which I sold), and a spare set of ball joints. All in all, by the time I did the install, and sold off the spare parts that were still useable, I was in for about a grand, but that did include the coilovers. Turned out great when I did it, but was a little more pricey than I had originally signed up for. I have factory exploded view PDFs attached that pretty much were all I needed. I did see some of the articles mentioned, but it's pretty straight forward if you have the diagrams. Course then you can't lock your hubs out before you leave on a snowy day when your not sure if you will need 4wd or not, and save yourself having to get out at a stoplight to lock in. Just my 2 cents. OK that's about a buck fifties worth after all my yammering. I always seem to be one for over-complicating things though. Thanks I've got a connection for the parts, just need to be patient and wait for them. Till then I'll keep gathering info and if this ever does come to reality I'll do a write up on it as there sure isn't a ton of info on it out there yet. What's the main benefit of doing this conversion? Maybe a LITTLE gas mileage but not much IME (earlier model truck, admittedly). What's the main benefit of doing this conversion?Have have asked others like Oleg about this and they disagree and would argue that without this conversion if you broke a CV axle you could just pull it all out, cover up the open holes somehow and drive off the trail. This kit can be used with all ADD and ABS systems. The kit includes new axle shafts, outer CV joints, hubs, seals, Toyota wheel bearings, Warn Premium lockouts (Full Kit only), grease, boot clamps, and all necessary hardware. New CV boots are not included, they are also available through Off Road Solutions. However, original CV boots can be re-used with this kit. Please read our technical article for more information. CV axles and wheel bearings were probably overdue for replacement anyway. Installed the kit myself using a 50 ton press at work to do the hub work.It’s nothing to get out and lock my hubs for the small percentage of time off-road. Installing this kit made me happier with the truck, so it was worth every penny. I’m 2500 miles post-install. Two thumbs up. Typical lead time to get them to your doorstep is about 2 weeks. Please call or email us if you have questions or you would like a set built for you. Turn around time is normally two weeks. Under normal conditions, if the rubber boots are replaced before dirt can get in, the axle can easily last the life of the vehicle. Lotus Development chromoly axles take it a few steps further and replace the outer joint with all new internals. Much thicker steel and high strength chromoly. It's over 6 times stronger than the OEM parts. The stock outer cage in the CV axle is prone to break when you get a combination of front wheel droop and a turned to lock steering. When max angles are reached the axle actually leverages against itself causing failure in the outer cage. This often happens when a trail has wash out or an obstacle large enough to flex out the suspension. We love the stuff and redesigned the components in the outer joint of the axle to give a significant increase in strength over the OEM axles. Since it's normally the outer joint that fails on an OEM axle we left the inner tripod joint alone and focused the improvement on the outer joint where the race and cage is. At this time we only sell the entire axle fully assembled and do not sell the cage and race separately. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Bought it knowing it needed a wheel bearing but didn’t inspect it too closely. PO said he had passenger wheel bearing replaced, but it looks to me like instead of replacing the bearing, they swapped out the whole spindle with a non manual hub spindle and put the manual hubs on them. Notice the missing hub studs below Trying to figure out my best solution (cheapest) to get back to a manual hub. Should I just swap out the whole spindle with a junkyard piece or can I press out the automatic hubs and replace with manual hub parts. The CV shafts are different spline count and the manual hub has an actual spindle where as the auto version is press in unit bearing style. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using TapatalkFINDING Manual hub Tacoma parts is like hunting hens teeth, i'd like to do this to my '97 but soon as who ever is parting out a Tacoma figures out how sought after the parts are, they become gold.I’ve got an alert on my phone with the LKQ app.hoping they get a truck in soon haha. For a better experience, we recommend using another browser. Learn more Facebook Email or phone Password Forgotten account. Sign Up See more of Timmy the Toolman on Facebook Log In or Create New Account See more of Timmy the Toolman on Facebook Log In Forgotten account. We went to Hollis. ter Hills in Gilroy, CA to test it out. The wires fatigue and break over time due to the bending the wires do every time the rear hatch is opened and closed. This video will show you how to go about fixing the wires so all the components of your rear hatch work again.A snorkel with a pre-filter can also help filter the air so your engine air filter stays cleaner for a longer period of time, especially for those times when you're following a caravan of rigs on dusty trails. The answer is you swap over the parts to your 3rd Gen 4runner knuckles that have ABS ports. This video will show you how to do all the press work involved. Hub Swap to a 1996-2002 4Runner. Make sure all the studs for both the wheels and the hub are present. Make sure all the nuts, washers and cone washers for the hub are present. You don't need anything from the steering or the brake system from the Tacoma. 2. Left and Right Tacoma Aisin manual hubs: these are black and silver in color. Make sure all the springs and the 6 bolts for each hub cover are present.This is actually the exact same snap ring theOn the end of the inner Tripod CV there should be a D-Ring. The axle shaftsIf you don't get the Tacoma's axle shafts, you can try buying re-manufactured. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Solo makes a pretty awesome kit, but it uses D44 hubs with U-joints rather than CV joints. Not sure if that’s gonna really be any issue but I already plan on going with RCV axles with whatever setup I go with, so might as well make everything bombproof. Not sure if Solo uses manual hubs with their kit, or if it would take much work to convert to manual hubs. Also not a huge fan of going much wider than 3.5” over on width. Sure it’ll help with the go fast, but it might be a hindrance in the rocks to have another 2” total track width. That 2nd gen tundra diff is what I really want to do. Pair that with RCV axles and bulletproof suspension components and you’ll have something that’s as strong as solid axle but still retains the go fast capability and comfort of IFS.The problem is deflection and running loose gears will blow stuff all the time. His gears including E-Lockers are holding up against the hardest trails in AZ and beyond. So that said I think if we set up front clamshells a little different then they will hold up better as well.I’ve heard his name many times, but the cost and convenience of ECGS has always made be go with them. Can’t beat the 5 year warranty. That definitely uses Dana 44 hubs. The mid travel fully fabbed spindle uses stock hubs and is still stock width. Agreed that 4.5” over is way too wide for a trail rig. Only good for purpose built prerunner IMO. That definitely uses Dana 44 hubs. Only good for purpose built prerunner IMO. View attachment 1757 And like previously stated, different LBJ, UBJ, and tie rod locations. However, for a fully fab'd spindle, this would be very easy for me to work off of. But you would have to run at least my stock length lowers. I've tried many an idea to retain the stock lower and eliminate the LBJ, and can't get anything I like. So all I would need to do is measure the stock spindle, mill out a block that the unit bearing bolts in it, and that would be the base of the spindle. Before I go LT on my own truck, I will most likely build a 1 off spindle, but I don't know what all I will use. Finished the LT kit though: I'd like to try full hydro IFS, but money is an issue there haha And like previously stated, different LBJ, UBJ, and tie rod locations. Finished the LT kit though: View attachment 1758 I'd like to try full hydro IFS, but money is an issue there hahaFull hydro is just another drop in the bucket at this point haha I forget what it entails though. I forget what it entails though.Loss of power is the biggest concern. Then increased wear on parts and loss of MPG's are another concern for some. I'd really want manual locking hubs just to eliminate those issues when I know I'll be in 2wd, which is majority of my wheeling. If I'll be in and out of 4wd, I'd keep the hubs locked though. Threads kinda dead. I would not want to run this setup. Plus it requires custom CV's (RCV might be an option here depending on patents), plus the custom unit bearing from a no name manufacturer is pretty underwelming. I would not want to run this setup. Plus it requires custom CV's (RCV might be an option here depending on patents), plus the custom unit bearing from a no name manufacturer is pretty underwelming. View attachment 1761 Later on in the thread he says he uses Koyo bearings. We discussed using drivetrain components from 1 ton IFS Chevy or 2nd Gen Tundra's, however we would have to modify those to the point that we would need custom CV's. If we use Tundra or 1 Ton Chevy hubs, we would face the issue of lug pattern issues. At that point, I'd want manual locking hubs. Stock tacoma manual hubs would never last to the abuse we'd hope to put our rigs through. So this leaves us wit the question of what's the best combo to incorporate strength, lug pattern, cost, and manual hubs. View attachment 1754. It wouldn't be too hard to make brackets to fit whatever calipers are being used, since we'd already have to make custom spindles at this point. View attachment 1755. Having strong enough spindles to bump off of the UCA would be nice. View attachment 1756 So how crazy am I. To start viewing messages,I've seen some on fleabay that say they'll fit '88-'95's but I can't find any information on here about any differences between the 2nd and 3rd gensTry a search in the US for info on the latter 4Runners. NevUnless I win the lottery I won't be doing this job any time soon. To add a new vehicle, select the year, make, and model at left. Our payment security system encrypts your information during transmission. We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Please try again.Please try again.Show details. Ships from and sold by Amazon.com. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account Please try your search again later.Click here to make a request to customer service.The wave spring technology increases reliability over standard coil springs. Also, to make sure they stay engaged, WARN premium hubs use a thick internal wave spring and heavy dial detents. Limited lifetime warranty.The company's Industrial Division markets electric and hydraulic winches and hoists to commercial, industrial and severe duty customers. Warn also has a line of utility winches and hoists that are designed for professional trade workers and do-it-yourself consumers who need powerful tools to assist them in pulling, hauling, dragging or lifting. With customers in over 65 countries, WARN is one of the world's most recognized brands in vehicle performance enhancing equipment.These hubs allowed the vehicle's front wheels to be disconnected from the drivetrain. He advertised that the hubs would increase fuel economy, be incredibly durable, and were easy to install. More than 60 years later, this still applies to WARN 4WD Hubs.However, after time, they become worn and need replacing. Other four-wheel-drive vehicles have automatic locking hubs. And although auto hubs are convenient, they don't allow for a complete disconnect from the four-wheel-drive system. Axles, differentials, and driveshafts still turn, even in 2WD, which adds extra wear and tear on a vehicle and decreases fuel economy. When you switch to a manual WARN 4WD Hub, you have the ability to disconnect front wheels from the front drivetrain, increasing fuel economy, and decreasing drivetrain wear.These are the same basic hubs Warn Industries has supplied to OEMs around the world. WARN standard hubs share many features with our premium hubs such as a 4140 steel clutch ring and inner drive gear and a precision cast hub body.To make sure they stay engaged, WARN premium hubs use a thick internal wave spring and heavy dial detents.We're so confident, all WARN hubs are covered by a lifetime limited warranty.Both feature heat-treated Cro-Moly steel gears. They’ll shine on the job for years to come.