3racing tt01 manual
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3racing tt01 manualThis is mainly because the old one is plastic and is likely to twist and snap. You want to limit the amount of movement in the rear diff, this will allow the rear end of the car to break traction more easily and hold steady in a drift. You want to set approx 2-3 degree camber on the front and rear tyres, this will also help them break traction more easily and offer more control in a corner. A Toe in of approx 2-3 degrees at the rear, this will improve the turning of the car A Toe out of approx 2-3 degrees at the front, this will also improve the turning sharpness of the car. Ideally you want to have more weight toward the front of the car, if possible. This will able the front end to have more control and help pull the car through the drift. Balance the chassis so the weight is even either side, this can be done with stick-on rc weights and some common sense. This will make sure the turning from left to right is the same other wise you may find it easier to drift one side than the other. The knock on effect of this is it will help kick the back of the car out when you let go of the throttle and re apply power. As only the rear wheels are breaking. Make sure that you car is fully ball raced to reduce the amount of rolling friction and keep your speed up. You can also install CVD drive shafts and more efficient ball diffs, this also helps reduce the stress on the Motor and ESC. Your suspension should be ideally be stiffer on the rear to help the car break traction, and softer on the front to help aid traction, so the car can pull its self through the drift. You can also change the position of the shocks ie the more vertical they are the less well they handle in a corner (ie loose traction) and the more they point in from the wheel they will help aid traction in a corner. The tyres you use want to be designed for drifting, ie low traction. Resin tyres are plastic to the touch and break traction with ease, the compound tyres offer more grip but wear out faster.http://csrahrs.com/e-bussiness/fckimages/4-ton-porta-power-manual.xml
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- this subject will also be covered in more detail at a later date.Well to be perfectly honest you could build a TT01 drifter completely out of Hop Ups. Which is what ive done with one of my TT01's, see below for parts used: I enjoy this as my hobby. And I built it as I have a passion for the Tamiya TT01 series, also I wanted to see what the end result would be if I bundled a selection of my favourite bits onto one chassis. I hope it helps answer some questions and im sure it will spark many more lol. The rear arms also replace the older screw fixings with shafts and e-clips. I found when fitting mine that the top and bottom arms have slightly different sizes so it best to have a play and see which ones fit best in your own model. Now a clever use of this is to wrap a single layer around the end of the arm that sits inside the cup making sure you have no overlap.As mentioned in point 2 above using some aluminium tape (?2.50) you can reduce the free play on the front and rear arms When i was building my TT01 I noticed that there is a small gap between the rear of the gearbox lid and the rear diff housing, i thought nothing of it and continued on my happy way. It wasn't until after a few runs that I noticed a crunching noise coming from the gearbox area, so i stripped it down to find small bits of debris had found there way inside (what i thought to be sealed) gearbox. Then i remembered the gap. Once i did this it reduced the amount of debris getting into the gearbox by approx 95. - i will try and get a picture up to explain this further No - This can be simply cured by carefully using a drill and a 3mm drill bit, drill through the bulkhead so you can see straight through, you will need 4x 22mm (ideally) or 25mm (you will need to space the 'head' end of the bolt by 3mm) by 3mm thick fine pitch screws and matching m3 nuts.http://www.gamainvest.sk/images/data/4-way-air-valve-manual.xml - i will upload a picture later to show this To avoid stripping threads out on the chassis stop tightening the screw as soon as it starts to bite, this is even more important if your using a fine pitch thread into a plastic hole. - its easy to do, and most of us have done this at least once before Its suggested that for drifting you want a firmer spring on the rear and a softer on the front, the purpose of this is to make the rear of the car break traction more easily than the front.Where as the lighter the oil the more 'freely' the piston will move within the shock absorber.HPI - T-Drifts - DR1C Control Tyre. Resin or PVC Drift tyres - cheap long lasting tyres from suppliers like sushi drift etc Ive now Had the opertunity to test all of the types of drift tyres avaliable on the market. I found if you're more of a car park drifter and like the fun of highspeed drift the Tamiya Type-D work very well, being a rubbery compound they have just enough traction to gain some good speed. Yet slippy enough to do some good drifts. The Type-D will require a strong motor (4000kv ish) On the other hand if you want more delicate, but slower drifting I recommend the HPI T-Drifts, I found resin and yokomo rings to have simalar grip levels, but no big gaps in traction, or lack of. Just use common sense when doing this because the water is VERY HOT! The ABEC scale is a system for rating the manufacturing tolerances of precision bearings. The system was developed by the Annular Bearing Engineering Committee or Council (ABEC) of the American Bearing Manufacturers Association (ABMA). The American Bearing Manufacturers Association was formerly known as the Anti-Friction Bearing Manufacturers Association. I normally run ABEC 3 Bearings in my cars as its a good compromise on strength vs bearing drag.There are two different types of shielding for bearings. These are metal and rubber shield, both offering a different level of bearing protection.http://www.drupalitalia.org/node/67627 These bearings are best used when contact with dust and dirt is going to be at a minimum. Metal shielded bearings offer the lowest friction resistance but will not hold out the dirt as well as rubber shields. So for that reason they are recommended that they are used in models that will be kept on tarmac and indoors. They also perform very well within gearboxes as these are sealed. If kept clean these bearings will enjoy a long life, but will degrade quickly if they become dirty. These bearings are best used when you know your model is going to be exposed to dirt. The rubber shields produce more friction, but help slow the ingress of dust and dirt. These bearings are strongly recommended when your RC model is going to be run off road. The life of these bearings greatly depends on how severe the conditions are in which they are used. Water is the biggest enemy of any bearing; try to dry your model before storage. Most bearings run on metal balls with light grease used as a lubricant. If looked after, these will have a lengthy life. Even so, you are advised to replace bearings in highly stress areas often. These include diffs, clutches and wheels. Ceramic balls balls have a much greater life, and can withstand the load and heat for longer, but they cost a lot more than a standard bearing. If you would prefer to pay less than genuine prices id strongly recommend these guys: www.rcbearings.co.uk. Good value for money and quick turn around. Top notch i say! However it doesnt mean you cant run a sensorless system, but what it will mean is you will be subjected to cogging at lower speeds.(what this means is the ESC doesnt know what the position of the rotor is.If you can afford it id reccomend a sensored system. I have and use the Savox 1251Mg, I find it to be extreamly smooth and quick. It is a popular servo amungst TC racers and has a proven track record. Than said I dont think the Alturn is that far behind and for the cost I dont think you can go wrong.http://chamabusinesscenter.com/images/3pm-manual.pdf Its a bit tricky though and should be done with the understanding you may cock it up. Most of the Alloy stuff is good, the only issue i had was the Adjustable Steering Links, 1st time i drifted with them i snapped one. The Alloy bits have added to the weight to the chassis making it the heaviest chassis in the D1RC! Most of the Alloy stuff is good, the only issue i had was the Adjustable Steering Links, 1st time i drifted with them i snapped one. The Alloy bits have added to the weight to the chassis making it the heaviest chassis in the D1RC! No matter enter a race series No matter enter a race series The guys in the series are top so if you get chance to get to at least one round you'll enjoy it! The guys in the series are top so if you get chance to get to at least one round you'll enjoy it! I just want to get some track practice first, as cones just arnt doing it for me at the mo lol Failing that just get yourself booked in for one round, the way the drifting is stuctured is that you'll get at least 3 battles (consisting of 2 runs, (Lead and follow)).Failing that just get yourself booked in for one round, the way the drifting is stuctured is that you'll get at least 3 battles (consisting of 2 runs, (Lead and follow)).Did you have this problem or is it because I'm using the crappy plastic steering? Did you have this problem or is it because I'm using the crappy plastic steering? Paste as plain text instead Display as a link instead Clear editor Upload or insert images from URL. Please try again.Please try again.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account Please try your search again later.Attention: this is not original Tamiya product, and it is only a kit, without any electronic device.Amazon calculates a product’s star ratings based on a machine learned model instead of a raw data average. The model takes into account factors including the age of a rating, whether the ratings are from verified purchasers, and factors that establish reviewer trustworthiness. Please try again later. Leothe13th 5.0 out of 5 stars Had to cut my servo due to interference with drive shaft. Even had to chop the top of the aluminum servo mount cuz it rubbed on driveshaft. I love working on rc cars and making stuff fit, but when u advertise a car as a TT01 it should go together like a TT01. UPDATE.At first I really liked this car, but now it is getting on my nerves. I didn't mind cutting my servo to make it fit because i have done that before on different kit rc car. Now the motor does not fit in the aluminum motor mount. Im using the same stuff as my TT01 and im just running into problem after problem. I purchased a hobbywing brushless system and the motor does not fit in the holes provided in the aluminum motor mount. Looks awesome but too much headache for me. Now i have all the parts and nothing is fitting the way it is suppose to. Will update in a day or two once seller calls me back.But over all not bad.Very nice finish and shipped fast with a dedicated box in the perfect size, safe arrival!This product is great with a brushless system. The product is as advertised all you need to know how to do is install the wheels, ESC, motor, servo, battery. Comes with servo mounts but you will need the screws for the motor. Make sure you know the gear ratios so you can buy the correct pinion gear. Thank you for helping Good points:great chassis, strong gear diffs, TT01 parts are strong and cheap. Handles really well. The only RC car I actually enjoyed building. Far too many of the 3racing parts were rubbish that needed upgrading.Thank you for helping Now, keep in mind, I’ve only driven the car for a total of 25 minutes so far, so this review will NOT be on the details of driving it and working on it. This review is mostly for the assembly of the kit. I will note some of the problem areas I came across while building this kit. I will also have a listing of the TT-01 parts you will need, in addition to the kit, along with the prices, to complete this car. First off, the instructions suck. I wasn’t expecting much considering this kit is made in China and I figured some items would get lost in translation and well, I wasn’t wrong. Do NOT expect Tamiya quality instructions here folks. There are NO written instructions included in the manual. There are listings of parts needed for a particular step, the bags you get the parts from and sometimes, a listing of the TT-01 parts needed, which, if it’s there, is usually incomplete. This is why I went to great lengths to make up the list of parts needed, the bags they come in, the price for each and yes, even the parts you will actually use from each bag. While building the kit, in several places, there are measurements in the manual. These measurements are wrong!! They will give you something to start from, but don’t spend too much time getting them close as you will only change them once you get the kit together. The distance between the ball cups on the steering links and the amount the droop screws stick out of the bottom of the arms are two of the areas that I’m referring to. If I remember right, they don’t even give you a distance to set the camber links to, front and back, so when you get the car together, they will be WAY off. They don’t state this in the manual, but I used the original TT-01 parts without issue. The manual shows to use the separate parts from the TT-01E though and those are the parts I will list later in this review. This does NOT include shipping cost. Another thing to note is the screw bags are hard to find. This is why the cost is so high on them. Since you mostly need them for pins, diff cover screws, etc., you may be able to source the items from you local Hardware store. Another thing to consider is this, if like me, you already own a TT-01, you already have a lot of the required parts for this conversion. Initial Impression Once I got the car put together and on the track, I was overall impressed with the car. I have not had much time with it to dial it in or to even get the gearing figured out. I have come across a couple of things that need to be addressed though. 1) The battery is held in with a Velcro strap. There is NOTHING holding the battery in place from sliding out of the car from the side. You will need to come up with something to fix this. For now, I put some double-sided tape along the chassis, on the outside of the battery, but long term, I will make up some new battery holders that have lips on them, similar to the TC6 design. 2) I already have an M-05 Mini Cooper, so to reduce cost; I stole the body from it to put on the MT-01 (as I call it). Two problems. First, the rear body post do not line up with the existing holes in the body. I didn’t want to drill additional holes in the body, so I made up some spacers to extend the body post out, away from the shock towers, further. Second, no matter how you set up the wheelbase, without modifying anything, the front tires will rub on the inside of the body. It will do this to the point of nearly stopping the car. With that said, I would suggest you change to the CVA style shafts (TAM53597). In conclusion, I like the car, but I still need a lot more time with it to figure out whether it’s for me or not. So far, it’s fun though. It’s similar to the Tamiya Mini’s, but you have more adjustments and AWD. I’m not too worried about the fact it’s made in China and parts aren’t readily available as the majority of the parts are from Tamiya and are easy to obtain. I know there are several other options out on the market currently that offer the same benefits of this kit. I bought this kit strictly out of curiosity and I’m not saying its any better or worse then the others. The intention of this review is to help others who may be interested in this kit and who may struggle through the assembly.It was competitive with the other 4WD mini's. Best thing is you can call it a TT01 Anyone have an issue with it, or is there an aluminum or carbon replacement? ThanksJust finished my tt01e m-chassis conversion started off at a tt01e F150 pinion is a tlt-1 24t pinion with stock spure tekin 10.5t redline 13mm HT rotor savox 1257tg servo spectruk sr200 novak edge 2s Venom 60C 2S 3800mAh lipo 3racing mini wheels (what came with the conversion) HPI super radial tires 3racing mini oil shocks (springs an oil on car) avid revolution 5x11 (8) 5x11 avid ceramic (4) traxxas 8x12 (4) HPI Lancia Stratos body 210mm wheelbase Whats left to be done Alum center drive (or cf depending on if i can find one) FF03 gear adapter (so i can mess with gearing more) Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile High Speed Metal Gear Digital Servo relocate the edge 2s install esc fan 21.5t schuurSpeed motor The kit was a minor pain to put together but compared to the time spent on my exo this little dude was a cinch to get rolling. I'll still need to do a alignment using some calipers but i've got everything as figured as i can by eyeballing. So far haven't had any issues with the dog bones or the center drive shaft now if only i could figure if my gearing isn't to much wiht this 113oF weather both the esc an the motor are getting hot the esc definitely needs a fan. OK now about driving.Handles like the rear doesn't like fallowing the tires don't really grab a hold of the asphalt or cement though that may be all the dust. Stopping I am at a slight loss though maybe its due to a much heavier vehicle but i've found wiht initial brake a 30 on my edge 2s the car still slows down like its deciding if it wants to stop. I am looking to slow down this beast abit getting it more to a vta spec motor wise the 10.5 with that high torque rotor is super overkill.The shocks are nice but I really have no clue how i should set this little dude up with shock feel compared to the offroads i own maybe someone could point me to a good medium?Can I use the stock TT01 prop shaft or do I need to find a shorter one. Also what hop up steering rack do I need. Is it a specific 3 racing one or can I use one from a TT01 as I have the alloy steering on mine.Can I use the stock TT01 prop shaft or do I need to find a shorter one. Also what hop up steering rack do I need. Is it a specific 3 racing one or can I use one from a TT01 as I have the alloy steering on mine. So you'll need the shorter shaft and the steering is very different to the TT01. So, I'm sorry to say, you'll need to use the steering rack from the conversion kit, or the hop up.Just finished my tt01e m-chassis conversion started off at a tt01e F150 pinion is a tlt-1 24t pinion with stock spure tekin 10.5t redline 13mm HT rotor savox 1257tg servo spectruk sr200 novak edge 2s Venom 60C 2S 3800mAh lipo 3racing mini wheels (what came with the conversion) HPI super radial tires 3racing mini oil shocks (springs an oil on car) avid revolution 5x11 (8) 5x11 avid ceramic (4) traxxas 8x12 (4) HPI Lancia Stratos body 210mm wheelbase Mid engine, 4wd, convertible from 210mm (HPI Lancia Stratos) to 239mm (Tamiya Lancia 037) wheelbase. Getting one of these maybe even before piecing together my F1 car.Will I be able to fit a bigger pinion in with the 55 spur with this conversion?Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use. If you want NextDay, we can save the other items for later. 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Racer Tip: Adding o-rings or foam bushings between the rubber oil seal and plastic damper cap will yield different damping effects.These disc springs are used with Item 54158 F104 Aluminum Diff Housing Set, Item 53663 Ball Differential Set (TT-01, TGS), and Item 53070 Manta Ray Ball Differential Set. Limited edition May require alternate spur Cars. ShaftShaft (TT-01, TA04) (item 53792) and ball differential. Low-Friction Shaft x 4 E-rings included. They feature a stylish 6-spoke design, with the silver-color metal plated rims complemented by a red metal-plated cap and spokes. Wheels are 26mm wide, and compatible with any tires of the same width. Each set includes 2 wheels Compatible with all 1:10 touring car models. They feature a stylish 6-spoke design, with the silver-color metal plated rims complemented by a red metal-plated cap and spokes. Wheels are 26mm wide, and compatible with any tires of the same width. Each set includes 2 wheels Compatible with all 1:10 touring car models. They feature a stylish 6-spoke design, with the silver-color metal plated rims complemented by a red metal-plated cap and spokes. Wheels are 26mm wide, and compatible with any tires of the same width. Each set includes 2 wheels Compatible with all 1:10 touring car models. At the time I think Tamiya had their TA05 M-Four belt-drive chassis kit available, but it was limited to 380 motors and the unique LiFe battery they had adopted in Japan. So, I went the conversion route, blinged it out, and topped it with a HPI Datsun 510 shell from their Cup Racer series (225 mm wheelbase). Overall I was happy with the result:Some chassis builds have been better than others; I found the D3 had some fundamental problems in materials and design, but the D4 was substantially better. The FGX EVO 2018 was pretty satisfying overall, but it too had some quirks possibly from the original FGX.The posts below will have some insights gleaned from building the chassis all at once.There is a sticker on the top left corner of the box announcing 3Racing plans to not include hardcopy manuals in future kits; they include a few QR codes which represent web addresses for the product page and the manual page. The M4 kit I received did have a manual included with it, but it was bound in the same way as the FGX EVO 2018 manual -- essentially photocopied, punched with a few holes, and secured with a binder strap. I moaned about this some in my FGX EVO 2018 build thread, but the reality is it won't make any difference as 3Racing moves to electronic distribution of documentation in future kits.Some kits have a few more bags; the M4 kit includes 9 bags. Wheels with pre-glued tires are included, but there is no body. This is purely a chassis kit.The gear diff is clearly not the same as the FGX EVO 2018's gear diff, as there is sufficient clearance to install the cross pin in the deeper case half without grinding any material. The center pulleys are a little unique in that they clamp the spur in the center.However, I found assembling the center spur and pulleys to be a little delicate as the small screws and thin flanges on the pulleys made it easy to strip holes. Coming from the previous step of building the spool, my sense of feeling was calibrated for beefy M3 screws threading into plenty of material. Going to M2 screws with minimal mating flange material, I managed to strip the first screw hole but then install the remaining three screws correctly. In the end I backed out the first screw and added some CA to the hole and figured it was good enough.It's not a huge issue; it's just a detail I noticed after removing the contents of the bag.In addition to the ball connectors for the shocks, there are ball connectors for roll bars too.Each outer block has a pair of metal pins pressed into it and these pins in turn mate with holes in the chassis plate. All of the suspension arms moved freely and didn't require any filing or fitting.Each lower bulkhead is located with a molded-in pin and secured with a pair of countersunk screws. Threaded aluminum spacers add some rigidity between pairs of bulkhead parts at each end of the chassis. The motor mount is actually aluminum. Note the front steering rack is now part of the front bulkhead; this is a modern trend with several manufacturers doing this now. The TB05 and EVO7 do this too.In particular, the damper stays are extra thick.The ball connectors get their own plastic mounts that are then attached to the upper bulkheads. The combination fo the FRP stays and aluminum spacers make the overall assemblies very rigid.I noted in the FGX EVO 2018 build thread that all of the button head screws for that kit were tight on the end of my 2 mm driver; this had been the case in my D3 build as well. In the case of the M4, all the button head screws fit my driver just as well as the countersunk screws. No problems at all.I was impressed to see the bars are supported by collars inserted into ball bearings; this is normally a feature found on more expensive touring car kits. I think the first time I came across this feature was with an Associated TC6 Factory Team kit a few years ago.I played around with offsetting the bar to one side or the other, but what ultimately helped me balance the roll bar effect was to take one collar, loosen it, rotate it, and retighten it in a different orientation. This introduced an elevation change on that side of the bar and helped balance the spring effect. I found I had to do the same adjustment to both the front and the rear bars, although the front bar was less of a problem than the rear one. You may also notice one of the bars has stripes painted on it; the other one does not. There were no instructions or noted differences; I checked them with calipers and found them to be the same diameter wire, but it was still a little concerning there was a visible difference between the two. Ultimately I put the painted bar in the rear and the unpainted bar in the front.Like the FGX EVO 2018, I had to use a Dremel to grind some flats in the pins to make sure they don't slide out during use. The uprights themselves were a snap to build up. The turnbuckles took a few extra glances at the parts list to confirm which adjuster to use at each end of the turnbuckle shaft; there are different lengths, closed and open cups, some that allow more angle than others, etc. It pays to check this carefully. Also, installing the steering turnbuckles on the center bridge is a little challenging given how close they are to the chassis plate; it may make sense to change the sequence of the instructions and install the turnbuckles on the center bridge before installing the steering assembly to the front bulkheads.Probably the most exciting aspect of this bag is how 3Racing provided distinct springs for the front and rear of the chassis; it implies they did some testing and intentionally selected the springs instead of throwing four of the same springs into the kit.The axle nuts are nice -- they're serrated and flanged. The tires come glued on the wheels already, and the rubber compound feels slick. They might be good for a test drive, but they don't seem to be a great compound for grip.Just something to keep in mind if you're picky about axle nuts.In the meantime, I'm happy to field questions or take measurements for anyone who wants to know more.It's easy! Sign in here. 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